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I Forge Iron

natedogg56

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About natedogg56

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    Auckland, New Zealand

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  1. Hi there, I've been asked by a local chef, here in Auckland, New Zealand to make some serving plates for his new restaurant. He wants a rustic/battered look, hence contacting me. My thought is that stainless steel is going to be the obvious material, due to its corrosion resistance. I'm thinking 2mm 304 grade sheet, which is 5/64" I think in US measurements However I have never forged stainless and am a bit freaked out by 3 issues 1. potential mild steel contamination - So new grinding discs, cutting discs, wire brush, files etc... thats ok, but what about hammers and a
  2. HI all. I got given a LPG (propane) forge and have used it for about 3 years on and off and never had any issues. Now I'm getting sore thorats, headaches and a bit of nausea after I use it for a prolonged time (full day, multiple days in a row), issues I never had before, same forge and same space. Two things have changed - i relined it and increased the insulation - it initially only had ceramic fibre board insulation. I replaced the ceramic fibre board also used some ITC products to seal thefibre board, boost reflectivity etc.. The other thing I did was I removed the back forge wa
  3. Thanks for the responses, I'm going to go and look at the anvils today and see what they're like. Nate
  4. Hi all, A question about what a good HRC hardness is for an anvil? Anvils are hard to find in New Zealand and I've come across a brand of anvil from Australia called Grinter. They are made for farrier's but the Grinter people say that it should be fine for blacksmithing. The anvils are cast from SG Iron and the HRC is 65. Any thoughts? Thanks
  5. Hi All, I know there have been various discussions about scale in the past, I've had a look and they have been helpful. My problem is with the making of ladle bowls and the buildup of scale within the bowl. As the bowl takes shape (I hammer it into a home made former) the scale becomes harder and harder to remove by brush due to the shape of the bowl (can't get my brush in there). In the time take to forge the bowl, the scale builds up and becomes very hard (no doubt due to hammering). I've tried vinegar as apickle but I find it relatively slow and even after a couple days hasn't a
  6. Thanks guys for your comments, might have to follow up on these plating kits!
  7. Hi all, Just wondering if anyone has had experience plating their work? I make a lot of small objects (spoons, ladles, bottle openers etc...) and have wondered about getting some plated. How easy is it to plate hand forged work? My work is relatively rough (hammer marks etc...), I've been told it is much easier to plate smooth objects, I presume all scale etc. would have to be removed. I'm sure there are other things I haven't considered, so any thoughts or advice would gratefully received. Cheers, Nate
  8. Hi all, I've been asked to make a bunch of copper ladles (copper bowl, steel handle), which I promptly started on before finding a whole lot of info (which is reasonably unclear) about acidic foods causing a toxic reaction on copper which if ingested can be quite harmful. Subsequently I've found that most copper cookware is lined with tin, stainless steel etc. to prevent this. Now having read some posts which cover similar topics on other message boards there seems to be a school of thought that a copper ladle is not going be much a problem as it doesn't get frequent use and will no
  9. Hi there! Just wondering if anyone has had success tinting or coloring the classic beeswax/linseed/turpentine mixture? I've definitely made it darker by using black shoe polish. I was wondering about using dyes for coloring candles... Or perhaps gilders paste is the answer? - basically I like making my own coatings where possible and I'm cheap. Thanks, Nate
  10. Anyone bought/used a BECMA anvil, any thoughts. Any thoughts? Nate
  11. I've been looking around the net for new anvil around 77 pounds and keep coming across these kanca anvils... has anyone put one through its paces. I'd like to know if it stands up to serious use? Otherwise can anyone recommend any other anvils around this weight? I must say that the kanca is attractive due to the price. Cheers, Nate
  12. With both the vinegar and sodium bisulphate I imagine they need to be neturalized? If so what do you use?
  13. Great! Thanks everyone for your suggestions!
  14. Thanks for all your suggestions! I made up some of the beeswax, turps, linseed mix and has been working really well, but I would like to make it darker. When I paint it on it remains fairly clear with a slight 'tint', I'm looking for a much darker brown/black look. Can I add something else to color it? Thanks!
  15. Wondering if stove black would work? Has anyone used stove black for this sort of thing?
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