Will W.

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About Will W.

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    Senior Member

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  • Location
    New York State
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, Archery, Smelting

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  1. OK, I'll give it a try. Thanks.
  2. You could try to make a steel plug and weld it in, if that is an option in your situation. Note that welding cast iron is tricky, but not difficult. Pre heating and post heating are a must in my opinion, cast iron tends to crack off any welds put to it if those heats are not involved, in my experience anyways. Not to say this is the best option, but this is what I would try. Pictures would also help in determining the best course of action.
  3. Perhaps handles were supposed to go on each end as a literal draw file? Or a self guided one like Alan said. That would be my guess.
  4. Not pertaining to metal working, so a little off topic, but right angle drills can be a literal knuckle buster sometimes. One time I was drilling holes in some floor joists in order to run plumbing, using a right angle drill and a spade bit. Well, the bit grabbed, and I ended up punching the floor above me at about 100 mph when the drill took off. I stopped using spade bits after letting a few angry words fly at the drill.
  5. Wiser words have never been spoken.
  6. Hello all. I have recently built my own charcoal retort, and am in the process of slowly tuning it to be as optimal as possible. This last firing I did went well (I think), I got about 50 percent good glassy charcoal and about 50 percent partially charred wood. The pieces that partially charred were larger than the ones that completely charred, so I think that was my issue. Anyways, I'm wondering if I can throw this par-char into my next batch combined with pure wood. Will it char the rest of the way along with the fresh wood? Or is it more likely that it will burn up before the fresh stuff is done? Most of it looks like this. And some of it was further along and looks like this. Thank you for reading.
  7. Allow me, if you will, to offer you some friendly advice. Learn how to move steel before you move on to these big blades. If you had trouble widening the stock, then that is an obvious sign that you need practice, and your end product is suffering because of it. Work with some mild steel for a while and figure things out. It's far cheaper and easier to move. It's been said here a million times *for a reason!* I'm not trying to knock your blade, it's a halfway decent start.
  8. I believe this is the best use for rebar in the smithy. The lines on rebar make for a good grip, and make it easy to determine the orientation of the billet in the fire.
  9. In my experience, if it has a grinding wheel when it fell and it's in decent condition, meaning the edges are not too thin, you're probably ok. Still, check it. A cutoff wheel though? No way, change it! It probably fractured or chipped, they're very thin and brittle, and if it did, it will probably turn into a million pieces upon the next use.
  10. Good point, I had not considered that. I would say just build one that works for you, or modify what you have. No sense in wasting time and energy trying to fight an uphill battle.
  11. I'm no expert, I've never even used a scrolling jig, but it seems to me that vise gripping the hot metal to the jig with the vise grips straight up and down, parrellel with your vise jaws, right at the inner most bend of the scroll would hold the hot metal and not be in the way. Judging from your post, I assume you've tried this, but it seems like it would work to me, no? Or, perhaps, if you bent that same section (the initial inner most bend) a little further, to a pretty steep angle, it would sort of lock it in as you go around.
  12. Very nice! I like how you kept the handle simple, it forces the eye to the pattern, and doesn't make the knife look too busy. Well done.
  13. Well said. That's a good attitude you have. Is it possible in your situation to set yourself up with a forge and hone your skills as you seek what you desire? Given that it may take time to find what you're looking for, that would be my recommendation. The more hands on, hammering on steel experience you have, the better prepared you will be.
  14. Very true. Scrap should always be tested, especially for something that is going to be hammered on, like a swage.
  15. One of my friends' forge is only up to just below his knee. That's where he likes it. Mine is up to about my waist. I think it's really all personal preference, just like anvil height.