Will W.

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About Will W.

  • Rank
    The Man With No Plan

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  • Location
    New York State
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing, Archery, Smelting

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2,285 profile views
  1. JABOD Forge "roof" addition

    Interesting, thanks for the info guys. I just pyrolize my wood in a retort and burn the charcoal, never tried using raw wood before.
  2. JABOD Forge "roof" addition

    Genuine question here: why? I thought it was intended for charcoal. Wood and charcoal burn pretty similarly, compared to things like coal anyway. Im just curious is all.
  3. Steel for a corkscrew

    Were all thinking it, and Frosty just says it . Seriously though, its just a corkscrew. If your going to use hardenable steel, seems to me you might as well harden it and temper according to its intended use. Otherwise, why waste the metal that makes good blades/tools etc? When you could just use mild.
  4. Found my first anvil?

    That horizontal line is the seam from where the steel face was forge welded onto the body of the anvil. Its nothing to worry about, lots of anvils are made that way. As long as the face is not delaminating, which it does not appear to be, youre good. 2.60/lb @ $400 dollars= 153 lbs and change. If it is a peter wright, the price seems reasonable. But i would want proof of brand before i layed down anything. Regardless, its a nice looking anvil with plenty of life left in it. Best of luck. Edit: just realized that you were talking about the line in the face, not the seam of the face. That looks like a chisel cut to me, probably someone was cutting steel on the anvil and didnt use a sacrificial piece of steel beneath it. The fact that it lines up with that cracked mousehole is just coincidence.
  5. Two student swords

    Man, thats awesome. They do good work, which means you must be a good teacher, Theo. Good on you for getting the younger generations working with their hands.
  6. Steel for a corkscrew

    It wouldnt be too bad, just hit it with a torch or hold it over your forge until its blue. Do that twice and it would be pretty hard to break it. But i dont make corkscrews, so im just speculating.
  7. Steel for a corkscrew

    And why not just harden it and temper it to blue? If youre going to buy high carbon steel, use the carbon! Lol.
  8. Making a saw blade

    Well, ive never made a saw, so take my advice for what its worth. That being said, i would use a spring steel. Every saw ive ever used can be bent well past 90° and return right back to straight with no issue, which means theyre likely tempered similarly to springs, which, if my memory serves, is right in the blue stage of tempering colors, about 525-550 degrees F. Your going for toughness and springyness here, not hyper edge retention. You also want it to be thin! Like under .08" would be my guess. Like a fillet knife, thin blade = flexible. Leads me to wonder if saws have a distal taper....
  9. UK Knife Law - Updated

    Can we have this on a shirt, Glenn? I meant no offense, Charles. I was merely using it as an example. I would never claim that all mentally ill people wish to harm others, i know a few people who struggle with mental disorders and they are some of the least violent people you could meet.
  10. UK Knife Law - Updated

    BGD Regarding the root cause of violence, that is probably literally impossible to pin down. If you could find the actual cause of violence on a case by case basis, im sure you would end up with 100 different reasons out of 100 cases. Mental illness, desensitization, mob mentality, etc. Its a very complex issue. Im not even going to get started on the whole distracted driving thing. Just today i was stuck at a green light because the lady in front of me was on her cell phone. While it is infuriating, im glad she stopped, then texted, instead of texting, running the red light and getting hit/hitting someone.
  11. UK Knife Law - Updated

    Thats a classic example, JAV. Guns, knives, hammers, cars, steel bars, pencils, and keyboards are all tools. They all serve a function and have a use. All of them can also be used to harm people. Intention is everything. I, for one, am enjoying this borderline rule breaking thread and sincerely hope it is allowed to keep going. I also hope the Northern Irish boy is alright.
  12. Tempering damasteel

    Frosty, he seems to imply that the information he has is from the makers. That may or may not be low, depending on what youre using it for. Might be just about perfect for a straight razor. Definitely too low for a longsword. Point is, in order to make a reasonable suggestion, we need to know what youre making. We cannot make bricks without clay.
  13. I agree, for dressing tools, but for knives, bench grinders work very well for really rough profiling, i usually only use mine for stock removal knives, forged knives are close enough in profile to start on the belt grinder. Angle grinders also work great, more delicate and precise than a bench grinder, but you cant hog as much material off as you can with a bench grinder, in my experience. Angle grinders are also blood thirsty fiends sent from the pits of Hades, you gotta watch those little demons. First chance you give them, they'll bite. If knives are your thing, honestly, good files are your friends (i had over 30 last time i counted, no two are the same.) They take longer, yes, but they teach you a lot more about profiles, grinds, bevel angles, etc. And its a lot harder to mess up with files, to the point that it cant be corrected. One slip on a BM2 and, woop, another one in the scrap pile lol. Plus with files, when they wear out, you can turn THEM into knives. Brilliant, really.
  14. Thats a good one, holder, i like it. Nobodies going to tell you that you cant post here. Were not THAT tyrannical.
  15. First try at pattern welded steel

    Depends on its exact alloys and intended use. I temper my chef knives at a far lower temperature than my bowies, for example. 2 cycles of 400°F for ~30 minutes each will produce a nice medium hardness/medium toughness blade, its what i do for EDC, hunting, and camp knives, but again, depends on the alloy. Dont know if you have one or not but get a laser thermometer so you can read the temperature of your steel while its in the oven, toaster ovens are not exactly known for consistent and precise temperatures.