dickb

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    Suffern , NY

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  1. Garages that repair shock absorbers, struts and suspensions are an excellent source or coil springs and maybe leaf springs. Removing coil springs from shocks or struts can be dangerous because they are under a lot compression stress. Best to ask the repair shop where you get it from to disassemble it. Disassembling a leaf spring pack is easier, just cut the clamp that binds them together
  2. I am making a series of knives using 1095, 1084 and 5160. Which blades would, or should, have the best edge retention. Please assume the blades all have the same edge geometry, and I am using the same hardening and tempering for all. The shop is in the style of around the year 1850. No electricity. To be specific, after normalizing I heat to non magnetic and let the work soak for a few minutes and then quench in canola oil . After hardening I take the work home and, within 3 or 4 hours, temper it to around 400 to 425 degrees Fahrenheit in my kitchen oven. I'm using separate a type K thermocouple to indicate the temperature because the oven controls don't indicate the temperature very well. Any suggestions would also be welcome.
  3. If you want brighter light go for a Halogen Bulb. What is a watermark ?
  4. Hi Dickb,

    I am new to forging and I built a burner and it is not working correctly. It puts out a blue flame a few inches and rolls up. I am using a non adjustable regulator and I don't know the psi. Thanks 

    Wade

  5. Good sources for steel are Welding shops, places that make gates and fences . Prices will be a lot better . Bring along some of the things you have forged and explain you are a beginning blacksmith. You may be pleasantly surprised . My first experience leaning blacksmithing was with an experience blacksmith. He had me making tapers, tapers and more tapers. Square taper on square stock, round taper on square stock, square taper on round stock, round taper on round stock. I had tapers coming out of my ears, but I did learn good hammer control and how to move a mass of iron to where I wanted it. Probably saved me a lot of frustration on more complicated shapes.
  6. A jig or other holding tool will not guarantee that the round stock is not a few degrees rotated. I think that might come back and cause me problems later.
  7. I am making some hammers, about three pounds each. I can punch (or Slit) and drift hammer eyes pretty good on square stock, but all I have now on hand are a bunch of automotive axles ranging from 1.5 to 2.5 inch diameter. I do not have access to a drill press, just general purpose blacksmith tools. I am able to make a punch mark on the top and on the bottom of the stock quite accurately. Maybe plus of minus 1/36 th of an inch. I would appreciate any tips on how to punch the hole centered and at right angle to the front to back center-line.
  8. can you show the dimensions please
  9. That's where I'm getting it now. As I noted in my post there are too many stones mixed in with the coal and ( I think ) too much clinkers after a couple of hours burning.
  10. I am looking for something local, e.g. Lower Hudson Valley NY or Bergen County NJ.
  11. Can anyone recommend a supplier of good Blacksmiths coal or possibly coke in the Lower Hudson Valley NY ? Or maybe in Bergen county NJ?j The coal I get now has a few too many stones mixed in and (I think ) too much clinkers. None of the stones have exploded so far . Can't be more specific about the clinkers because I don't have any thing to compare it with. Can't get more than a couple of hours before I have to clean out the clinkers.
  12. OK a few more details. My major concern is one of safety, I don't want to set the quench oil (canola oil) on fire and would prefer to use as small a quench tank as possible consistent with safety. As for type of steel, probably 1045 or 1050 .
  13. What's the minimum amount of quench oil for a two pound hammer head ? a three pound hammer head? a four pound hammer head? Is there a ratio of pounds (or quarts) of oil per pound of work ? Again assuming the work is a hammer head.
  14. Ditto . Rebar is wonderful stuff for embedding in concrete. Waste of time and effort using it in a blacksmith shop.
  15. It's kind of a waste of money to use any kind of alloy steel until you have learned how to forge a piece of steel to the shape you are trying to make. So I would probably stick to plain mild steel (1018 steel in the United States) to practice on. If you want to practice with alloy steels and make a hard-enable screw driver/punch/chisel/etc/etc then you could see if you can get some discarded automobile coil springs. Repair shops frequently throw them away. WARNING. If the spring is still attached to the shock absorber or strut then don't try to disassemble it yourself. It's under a lot or pressure and dangerous to disassemble . Ask the repair shop to disassemble it for you. Then just cut off a piece about the size you need, heat it and forge away. Rebar is too unpredictable in composition so stay away from it.