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Found 30 results

  1. Hello, I'm trying to figure out how to make box joint pliers as the title implies. I should first note I'm trying to figure it out without much reference. There's one thread on here but it's not helpful. Anyways, I've based my forgings off an image (see below), and a video of Peter Ross doing the assembly (but not the actual forging). I *think* I have the actual forgings where they should be, but here's is my main problem. When I drift the punched piece, by the time I can squeeze its pair in, it's over stretched and the result is not clean looking and doesn't work great. I made a little sketch explaining what I mean, as I don't have images of pre-trashed attempts of mine, so see attached. I imagine a solution would be to make the punched piece half the length (in the punched) area, and generally bigger than its partner, but in the video they look the same size. I also imagine the hole needs to be punched at an angle. Which seems to stretch the metal even more. I'm only maybe 6 full attempts in, but I'd figure I'd ask about this. I should also note I've been grinding / filing a little bit before the fitting to make sure everything is flat enough, etc, so avoid any issues with that. And on a few I filed the hole to have a slight angle. I've also tried with 1/2", 5/8", and 3/4" square starting stock, but I imagine it wouldn't matter as long as you do it right. So any advice would be appreciated. There's surprisingly little online. Thanks! Reference image of forgings I found - Peter Ross video with assembly (and shots of forgings pre-assembly) -
  2. Hello, I'm new to blacksmithing and have gotten a few things here and there as far as tools and the like. Recently, I came across this device whilst scouring eBay, and am not familiar with this at all. I was hoping for some help identifying what it is and what/how it is to be used. the listing said it was a shaping tool. Thanks so much.
  3. I am looking for a small-medium sized swage block. It is not an urgent search but if anyone has one that they want to get rid of. I need it to have a 1" hole so i can make hardies and i would like it to have V's on one edge. thanks Josh
  4. Hey all, I have been stalling about making proper tools, and decided to try a hot cut Hardy tonight. This was made from one of the largest crow bars I've ever seen with just a chisel, a 3 lb cross pien from HF, and a 180# Trenton. I had to upset it for a good 20 min to get to be larger than the size of my Hardy hoIe. I so wish I had a striker, as the tapering took so many blows from my 3lb hammer. I would love to see all your hot cut hardies as a comparison! Any and all advice or comments are welcome. Brent
  5. I just cleaned up a couple of my great grandfather's hammers and re-handled them and while I was at it I noticed this one had a TK stamped on either side of the head. I know it's well over 100 years old and was wondering if any of you hammer aficionados out there had any idea who the maker was or a possible age range? None of the other hammers had any identifying marks, which isn't surprising as he was a farm smith in the back woods of West Virginia... I'm not expecting any miracles, but it would be neat to know where the old boy's hammer originally came from.
  6. pdesorm

    Mistery tongs

    Hello there, I am helping the local Colby Curtis museum and Stanstead Historical Society identify and label some blacksmith items. I do mostly small forge projects for fun so my worldly knowledge is limited. Any idea what these tongs would have been used for? I've also got a similar set at home. Thanks.
  7. So, I got to thinking about what makes a hammer good for blacksmithing. Steel is used primarily due to it's combination of Strength and Mass, while softer metals are used for more specialized tasks. Like Brass, and Lead. What I am thinking of making(And of course, sharing the idea with you fine fellows.) Is a hollow steel hammer shell, and filling it with Lead. This gives you the mass of the lead, with the Strength and hardness of the steel. So long as the steel is thick enough at the striking face, it should work fine without any problems. Would this work?
  8. Help! I don't have a vice. I am looking for a stump vise (don't want to buy one off eBay) but in the mean time, I have this railspike knife I'm making. So far it's coming out great but I want to add details to the doghead I'm putting on the handle. Any ideas on how I can do this without a vice (or a welder if that matters any)? I have one of those small 55lb blue anvils from harbor freight. I was thinking that somehow the hardy hole might be able to help. But I'm afraid the edge of the hole will put creases in the metal.
  9. this is my biggest so far. its a 14 lbs postmall!
  10. I ran out of 4140 a couple of days ago, and before I could go to the scrap yard to find more I got iced/snowed in. Now I need to make some tools for a project (chisel, round and square punch, drift, etc.). I do have some 1084 stock left over from a knife project, and I was wondering if I could make my tools out of that. I know the carbon content is twice as high and the alloy metals are different, but what does that mean in terms of this stuff performing for tool making? Thanks for your help.
  11. Getting by with a track anvil can be difficult sometimes. I have already created a horn on mine, but getting a hardy hole has been a challenge. I believe having this hole would be a great benefit because you can place different tools in one to achieve different things. I have had a different piece of railroad track, not the track, but a different section that holds the rail timbers. In the video see how I ended up crafting a hardy hole section to hopefully achieve this. link removed Area under the track plate hole has been drilled out, Spike can now be modified to fit into the *hardie hole* and be used.
  12. Have a buddy in the smithy for 2 weeks and he is new to "smithing" so we have been tooling, he has limited stuff so I want to send him, home with 20-30 smithing tools and the ability and knowledge to make tools when he returns home. He wanted a guillotine hardy tool. I did not have one I always made spring fullers for all my needs or top and bottom tools. But we looked at several different ones came up with a simple design. Then we thought hey why not make a half dozen of them to sell cheaply to guys in the club. So off to the scrapyard we went-long trip, its about 200' from the front door of my smithy. $27 later we had what we needed and headed back to the smithy. Here is Dan and I fitting the pieces for welding And here I am welding------just in case you may have missed that. Here is Dan welding in the lower corner of the table you can see the welded piece along with the pieces that make up the entire Guillotine. Here is the finished product It took us about 3.5 hours to cut all the stock, weld them up, clean and paint them. We made sure to use a readily available stock for the dies that we could get in mild steel and tool steel
  13. Greetings all, I was picking around a farmer's dump site (probably from the '50s) and found this metal... thing. It looks almost like a large set of tongs, but the ends don't have pincers, just rusted chunks that look like bolts. For a moment I thought it was the suspension for a wagon seat, but then saw that it slides in the middle. I'm completely stumped. Can anyone give me a guess? Thanks! Jamie
  14. We just had two oaks cut down. Now working on the firewood. I got the hydraulic splitter out and suddenly it occured to me that it could be a powerful press. Not a power hammer but certainly a 21 ton press! Could be used with certain tooling as a powerful blacksmith tool? Ehh? I am sure I am not the first to think of it but this is the first I have heard of it. Anyone else? Better think safety first but the potential seems there.
  15. I have remade this tool now for the third time. I would be interested in anyones thoughts. It's all mild steel except the contact points which are about 1/2" coil spring. Do you think the spring part will last? Pics of others similar tools would be good. I find I use this one rather frequently. The last one had very thin metal as the spring part and tended to crack and bend at the weld to the coil spring. I made this one stiffer and added upside down u-shaped guide to keep it aligned. Haven't really used it yet. Thoughts?
  16. So, I saw a cool pocketknife based on a Gary Huston style folder (on here of course), and decided to try one this morning (left mine in Texas!), and got annoyed. I was cheating with some pliers (yeah, I know) teeth ground down so not to mar the stock because I didn't have the right tongs, and got fed up after I dropped the stock for the fifth time and decided it was a good morning to catch up on my tool making. And then I didn't have the right size tongs to hold the bar stock for the new tongs after I finished the first half and cut it off the rod, so........... I guess my question is, what's the most layers back have you gone into making a tool to make a tool to make a tool to make..........etc, for a specific project?
  17. I found a 150 lb. Hay Budden anvil on craigslist. It seems to be in fine condition minus some gnarly edges. How good do edges have to be for them to still be usable? The Seller wants $325. I would like to try and talk the price down. Is this a resonable deal?
  18. I was considering buying a harbor freight letter stamps set for putting my initials on forged work. The website claims that the stamps are High carbon, Although we all know that harbor freight tools are often of dubious quality. If I get the iron hot enough, will the stamps hold up? Any thoughts? http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/stamping/36-piece-1-4-quarter-inch-steel-letter-number-stamping-set-35121.html If this is a bad Idea, then where would I get a real touchmark?
  19. I am more or less of a beginner and am looking for two pair of tongs that are the most versatile, and that fit my needs. I generally forge round and square rods that are 1/2 inch and under. What type of tong would handle these types of stock well? I get the impression that V-bit tongs and Wolf-jaw tongs are best for my applications. Any thoughts?
  20. Hey Guys, on friday I forged a Brian Brazeal hammer eye punch top tool.The first one I ever forged under just my own supervision. With Henrick Stark as my striker. Stock material was L6 thermodurable tool steel (56NiCrMoV7) in 1" round. I hope you enjoy the video =) http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=nCETra-GCMU Btw not all steps are shown entirely! Yours - Daniel
  21. I'm really needing a real anvil. After using far inferior improvised anvils for a while and using real anvils in my Guild's shop, I am getting the itch to own a real anvil. I plan to ask my guild members if they have or know of any for sale. I am looking for something not to heavy, probably more or less than 100 lbs. I am not able to spend over $300. Ebay and craigslist are unreliable and overpriced. Is this a reasonable budget for an anvil in good condition and In that weight? I thought about buying a new farrier anvil, but they are not really suited for blacksmithing and have all sorts of annoying shapes on them. What are your thoughts?
  22. I know this has probably been discussed a million times before on this forum but I guess I'll ask anyway. Is there any way of hard-facing a cheap cast iron doorstop? I have read that the process of welding on a hard face is a waste of time with no guarantee of success. that being said, is there any other way of doing this, such as epoxy glues or with fasteners. I am kind of obsessed with this, but I should probably just drop the idea and get a real anvil!
  23. Is this a real antique anvil, or a long lost cast iron boat anchor? the guy claims he found it while metal detecting. more pics with link. FOR SALE, ANTIQUE (VERY VERY OLD) ANVIL. I DUG THIS UP WHILE METAL DETECTING BACK IN 1980, 8 INCHS LONG 3 INCHS TALL IT IS PAINTED BLACK TO STOP THE RUST CASH ONLY,
  24. I'm trying to find a large piece of steel for a makeshift anvil. I live in Northern Virginia and we don't have a lot of "junkyards", just metal recycling centers who don't sell their scrap. I've found a 4 inch diameter by 6 inch long steel cylinder on eBay for $30, but I would rater have a square block of steel. How and where might I get one in my area?
  25. Does anyone know if this cheap swage tool is up to par for Blacksmithing work? The seller claims they are ductile iron. Any thoughts Link