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So, I recently got an old buffalo forge as a gift, all still in working condition, well the blower lasted maybe a week before it started to get harder to crank, I let it sit for a little while and now it will not crank at all, I don't know how to disassemble it, but I feel like that's the best place to start, it's a buffalo 200 silent blower, I'm not sure if it's rust or some bolts I'm not seeing, but I can't even get the gear case off Any and all help is appreciated, and I'm sorry if there is a more relevant thread for this question, I looked but couldn't find one

Hello guys this is my first time ever writing a forum so go easy on me. However, after searching the internet for hours I cannot find a forum on my particular problem. I am running a homemade forge with a homemade fire pot and clinker breaker. Although I have burned bituminous before, it is hard to come by and I don't particularly care for how smoky and stinky it is! So after searching, I have found a local feed store that carries anthracite for a more than reasonable price of 5$ for 50lbs. I really like how hot and clean the anthracite burns and never seems to burn down as quickly as bituminous. However, I have a problem that occurs every time I run my Forge. It works beautifully for around an hour and I can easily reach welding heat, but after this first hour it is like a light switch is flipped. I can see a bunch of unburned, black coal at the bottom of my firepot and the fire cools down considerably. After about five minutes, my coal bed looks like checkered black and white. If I scoop the cold coal out of the center, there just seems to be more coal around cooling and falling down. I don't understand what the problem is seeing how well it works in the beginning of my fire. Apparently this isn't a common problem as i cant find a forum on it anywhere. It is very frustrating and is ruingin the forging experience for me. Anything would help, and thank you all.

Hey there. I am absolutely crash-coursing into forge making and metal working. I've gone through several crude forge designs and worked up to my current concept, that is a bit ambitious. I am having an absolutely ridiculous time getting by burners working properly. I am going to attach pictures to show what I have going on. Basically I have a 36" can lined with fire brick and refractory cement, that part holds heat so well! Then I use a 20# tank, low pressure regulator off of one of those tank-top heating burners, 3/8 OD hard copper lines, going to .35 MIG tips for burners. I have tried anywhere from 1 to 6 burners, different amounts of air holes in the 'venturi' area. So many things. Last night, with this setup I had two burners spaced about 5" apart working quite well. Finally all blue flames. But it's very temperamental and seems to end up choking itself out. When they work, they work well - but it's only in tiny spurts of good fortune. They definitely seemed to be running way too lean, and I increased the venturi holes by 400% and that is what really set it running better than ever. The second burner from the entrance chokes back too much though, and basically was only heating steel red-hot under directly under the first one. Running only one burner seems to just be too much gas. Two works the best. Should I have a flare on the end of the tubes? I've seen mixed things about this. Do I need to open up the back end of the forge... with more than 2 burners, and even with two sometimes there is excess fuel going into the chamber, and will sometimes choke out the flame. My main concerns at this point are should I have flares on the ends, and is it reasonable to think I need to knock a brick out of the 'back' wall to keep back pressure from building up in the chamber. Please help! I've wasted hundreds of $ already on parts through my trouble shooting and I'm admitting defeat. This is just way too complex to simply teach myself like many things I've done.

So Christmas is coming up and I wanted to make a knife for my Father and my Father in law. I forged out a couple of knives from an old farriers rasp, made a brass guard and used a couple of old antlers for the handles. Everything is fitted how I want so I put some two part epoxy into the antler and around the edge to secure the guard to the handle. The packaging says that the stuff sets in 5 minutes and cures in 30 but I let them sit over night (so like 7 hours) and the epoxy is still runny. Is this normal and the packaging is just bs or should I take it all apart and try again with another type of glue?

I bought an old Buffalo "Climax" hand crank blower (atleast 20yrs old) that needs repair. The shaft that fan blades mount to is loose. It moves side to side. I haven't taken the gear box apart yet but I'm sure it will need a bearing and that shaft replaced atleast. Does anyone know of a website that I can order parts for it? I haven't had any luck finding one. Thanks

Help! I don't have a vice. I am looking for a stump vise (don't want to buy one off eBay) but in the mean time, I have this railspike knife I'm making. So far it's coming out great but I want to add details to the doghead I'm putting on the handle. Any ideas on how I can do this without a vice (or a welder if that matters any)? I have one of those small 55lb blue anvils from harbor freight. I was thinking that somehow the hardy hole might be able to help. But I'm afraid the edge of the hole will put creases in the metal.

Dear Sirs, I am working in closed-die steel forging company. Nowadays, we have problem about the production of connection rod Details are as follows: Forging Equipment: 6300 mkg Lasco Counterblow hammer Raw Mateial: SAE 4140 Forging Temperature:~ 950-1000 C 1st question: What must be the hardnees value as forged in air cooled condition? For the heat treatment, First, the part was austenized at about ~880 C during 40 minutes and quenched in 90 C oil bath. Then tempering was performed at about ~ 550 C during 1 hour. After heat treatment; Surface Hardness was 34 HRC => This is OK We have cut a tensile test sample from the body of the part as being perpendicular to the forging direction.The section that we have taken test sample was 20 mm and the diameter of the gage length region after turning was 10 mm. When we performed tensile testing; Tensile Strength was 1100 MPa => This is OK( the range of this value must be between 1000 to 1150 MPa) Yield Strength was 513 MPA=> This is not OK. This value must be greater than 650 MPa 2nd question :Can anyone has a suggestion to provide yield strength greater than 650 MPa without causing deviation of tensile strength from the tolerance range 1000 to 1150 MPa ? Attached the picture of finished connecting rod and drawing of tensile test specimen are available. Thanks for your assist in advance. Regards, Schmieden