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Found 7 results

  1. So, I recently got an old buffalo forge as a gift, all still in working condition, well the blower lasted maybe a week before it started to get harder to crank, I let it sit for a little while and now it will not crank at all, I don't know how to disassemble it, but I feel like that's the best place to start, it's a buffalo 200 silent blower, I'm not sure if it's rust or some bolts I'm not seeing, but I can't even get the gear case off Any and all help is appreciated, and I'm sorry if there is a more relevant thread for this question, I looked but couldn't find one
  2. Hello guys this is my first time ever writing a forum so go easy on me. However, after searching the internet for hours I cannot find a forum on my particular problem. I am running a homemade forge with a homemade fire pot and clinker breaker. Although I have burned bituminous before, it is hard to come by and I don't particularly care for how smoky and stinky it is! So after searching, I have found a local feed store that carries anthracite for a more than reasonable price of 5$ for 50lbs. I really like how hot and clean the anthracite burns and never seems to burn down as quickly as bitumino
  3. Hey there. I am absolutely crash-coursing into forge making and metal working. I've gone through several crude forge designs and worked up to my current concept, that is a bit ambitious. I am having an absolutely ridiculous time getting by burners working properly. I am going to attach pictures to show what I have going on. Basically I have a 36" can lined with fire brick and refractory cement, that part holds heat so well! Then I use a 20# tank, low pressure regulator off of one of those tank-top heating burners, 3/8 OD hard copper lines, going to .35 MIG tips for burners. I have trie
  4. So Christmas is coming up and I wanted to make a knife for my Father and my Father in law. I forged out a couple of knives from an old farriers rasp, made a brass guard and used a couple of old antlers for the handles. Everything is fitted how I want so I put some two part epoxy into the antler and around the edge to secure the guard to the handle. The packaging says that the stuff sets in 5 minutes and cures in 30 but I let them sit over night (so like 7 hours) and the epoxy is still runny. Is this normal and the packaging is just bs or should I take it all apart and try again with another ty
  5. I bought an old Buffalo "Climax" hand crank blower (atleast 20yrs old) that needs repair. The shaft that fan blades mount to is loose. It moves side to side. I haven't taken the gear box apart yet but I'm sure it will need a bearing and that shaft replaced atleast. Does anyone know of a website that I can order parts for it? I haven't had any luck finding one. Thanks
  6. Help! I don't have a vice. I am looking for a stump vise (don't want to buy one off eBay) but in the mean time, I have this railspike knife I'm making. So far it's coming out great but I want to add details to the doghead I'm putting on the handle. Any ideas on how I can do this without a vice (or a welder if that matters any)? I have one of those small 55lb blue anvils from harbor freight. I was thinking that somehow the hardy hole might be able to help. But I'm afraid the edge of the hole will put creases in the metal.
  7. Dear Sirs, I am working in closed-die steel forging company. Nowadays, we have problem about the production of connection rod Details are as follows: Forging Equipment: 6300 mkg Lasco Counterblow hammer Raw Mateial: SAE 4140 Forging Temperature:~ 950-1000 C 1st question: What must be the hardnees value as forged in air cooled condition? For the heat treatment, First, the part was austenized at about ~880 C during 40 minutes and quenched in 90 C oil bath. Then tempering was performed at about ~ 550 C during 1 hour. After heat treatment; Surface Hardness was 34 HRC => This
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