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Found 9 results

  1. I like this fuller, but don't dare use it anymore. Is it repairable, and if so, how would you suggest I go about doing that? Thanks.
  2. I made this spring fuller out of a scrap car spring I found. It amazing how much more I have running through my head now that I have one. This little owl shaped opener is the first thing I made with it.
  3. Hello All, I apologize if this is not the correct room to post this question in or if the answer is extremely obvious. I started this craft a few months ago and have searched far and wide for a good tutorial that explains how to forge a bottom fuller hardy tool. I have seen a few videos on youtube, but they all seem to be using power hammers. Like most beginners I do not have a power hammer, but I am in the process of building a striking anvil. With that said, could someone point me in the right direction on this forum to a good tutorial for forging a bottom fuller? Everything I search for seems to be images or descriptions of what people have forged. It really seems strait forward, but I would like to know what people use for stock at the start and the steps or little bits of experience that could be shared to help me do this right the first time. Judging from the massive amount of posts and experience that has congregated here I am sure more than one person will be able to point me in that direction. Thanks in advance and I look forward to some feedback on some of my future projects.
  4. Hi. I found this tool at a garage sale, and the seller didn't know what it was. I know what it is, but I don't know what it's called. My name for it would be "fork fuller" for obvious reasons, but that's not the correct name. I don't see any of these on eBay. Does anybody know what they are called?
  5. I needed a little fuller for dividing my work up when making a compass. Instead of welding a shaft to it to fit in the hardy hole, I made a bend so that it would lock into the hardy hole at an angle. Also, I decided I would make it look like a duck head, hence my duck head spring fuller. As you can see the hardy insert is bent 45 degrees so that it locks in and wont twist. The fuller is situated to rest on the near side of the anvil. Seems to work pretty well. Matthew Made this from an old 70 HM Evenrude shifting rod.
  6. Have a buddy in the smithy for 2 weeks and he is new to "smithing" so we have been tooling, he has limited stuff so I want to send him, home with 20-30 smithing tools and the ability and knowledge to make tools when he returns home. He wanted a guillotine hardy tool. I did not have one I always made spring fullers for all my needs or top and bottom tools. But we looked at several different ones came up with a simple design. Then we thought hey why not make a half dozen of them to sell cheaply to guys in the club. So off to the scrapyard we went-long trip, its about 200' from the front door of my smithy. $27 later we had what we needed and headed back to the smithy. Here is Dan and I fitting the pieces for welding And here I am welding------just in case you may have missed that. Here is Dan welding in the lower corner of the table you can see the welded piece along with the pieces that make up the entire Guillotine. Here is the finished product It took us about 3.5 hours to cut all the stock, weld them up, clean and paint them. We made sure to use a readily available stock for the dies that we could get in mild steel and tool steel
  7. Hey gang! I've got a question... or maybe a few. I'm forging a longblade and I'm getting to the point of forging a fuller. I'd like to insert one down the center, maybe a half inch wide or so. However, I've been wondering on the easiest, most effective method of doing so? Would it be best to have the same size fuller in the hardy and on a handle, and just work the blade along it, almost pinching it on the center? Or is there an easier way to do so? Last question, I see people using what is like a Japanese sword smith's hammer. Have any of you used this and prefer this? I've been told it really helps cut down on hammer marks, but can't that be done with proper hammer control and technique? Thanks!
  8. Hello, I welded up a frame for a Smithin machine. I know it's kind of cheating but is a plasma cutter a wonderful tool to dissect a large plate. The smithin can hold a die 5" wide X 1/2" thick. The stock size it can fit is 5 1/4" wide X 4.5" high. I plan on useing shims so I can use 2" dies as well...cheaper. My plans are to make things like apples, dinner bells, incise lines (decorative) on stock, maybe some cutting, round hole punching and slots. General fullering as well. As far as a radius for fullers to close off a pipe (2.5? OD) for apples what kind of radius do you use or is it a multi step set of radii? I have to weld a hardie shank to it yet. cheers
  9. Hey fellows, another video of Alec and me, this time forging a 1 1/2 inch fuller. This fuller was forged to finish mainly with techniques of Brian Brazeals teaching. This fuller already served me very well with my current projects! I was directing and Alec struck for me, while navigating me through the different steps, so I learned how to direct this tool. I hope you enjoy the video! http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=2ShMHn_ofV0 Please take to note that I waived to use any rendered effects or fancy transitions in this video and it is basically a raw cut of all heats we recorded. You can see the fuller on the left hand side: Yours - Daniel