Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Greebe

Members
  • Content Count

    120
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Greebe

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    MN

Converted

  • Location
    WV - Formerly Nome, AK

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks, keep me posted. I am curious to see how it turns out.
  2. Latticino ,Did you ever finish that hammer you posted?
  3. I have the Tire Hammer plans. That might be the route I go. Wondering if I should build a 50 ton hydraulic press first though. That could be used for punching the eyes in my axes and hammers, and for forging most of that work as well. Also it would be a more multipurpose tool and be useful in the machine shop side of things. Going to order the "BUILD YOUR OWN HYDRAULIC FORGING PRESS" book which shows how to build the 24 ton version, and maybe that would be insightful enough to build the a 50 ton twin cylinder like below.
  4. Thanks for the replies. I guess this hammer can be adjusted up and down to give more distance between the dies. However once it is adjusted higher, I am not sure that it would still work well as the stock gets thinner. I used to make loads of wrapped eye tomahawks and did it all by hand. A power hammer for that would have been great. I would like to start making hammers, and my body would not love doing all that by hand. Do I need a hammer? probably not, but if I want to step it up and do some production then it would be very helpful. I have a machine shop and that is where I make my money. I
  5. Just curious if anyone has built a beam hammer like this one seen on youtube? Seems inexpensive, and like it might be an ok option. Obviously it would not do the work of a little giant or other power hammer, but it might be better then nothing without spending a bunch of money.
  6. That must have been a lot of vinegar. What did you find large enough to put it in?
  7. That sounds pretty close to the same dimensions of the bull pin I ordered. It is 15" long 1-1/16" tapered to 3/8". I did a clay model, made the pin to the same dimensions, minus 2" shorter on the handle since that was all the clay I had, and then "forged" to flat on two sides, shortened the tip, and looks like I should end up with a drift that could make a max hole of about 1-3/8" x 7/8" capsule shaped. That seems like it should work.
  8. I went ahead and ordered the bull pin shown in my first post. Should be here next week and then I will see how forging it into a drift goes.
  9. Maybe Aspery did not put it in his book, but just shows it in classes? Not sure. Cutting it shorter would not be a problem. Maybe I could use the cut off as a round punch. I probably would just drill two holes like Black Bear Forge showed in one of his videos. I know that is probably cheating, but it would make it easier with a one man show. He showed drilling two 3/8" holes at the outer edge and then using a flat punch sized to just push out the center bit of steel . Seemed pretty efficient.
  10. Found this old post. Which might be useful to others as well. Post # 3 mentions Mark Aspery using bull pins.
  11. Only type of axe that I have seen with one continuous taper is the tomahawk for slip fit handle. All other axes have an hour glass shape. If not hour glass shaped you would have a heck of a time keeping a wedged handle tight. The two apposing tapers wedge the handle in keeping it tight.
  12. That is turning out really nice.Thanks for posting it.
  13. What weight are you aiming for? I would be interested to see what you come up with.
  14. Thanks for checking that. I might try using the one I posted. It might be a quick way to make one. All one would have to do is just flatten it to create the correct profile. I think it was $18, and would save me a bit of work since I do not have a power hammer or press.
×
×
  • Create New...