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Please help with identifying this anvil. I recently purchased it for cheap ($150), while knowing it had a crack. When I got it home, I put it in the electrolysis bin and wire brushed it. I still can't gleam too much information off it. I can see two 1's and a 2 (read 121). I weighed it on a bathroom scale and it weighs 156 pounds. It does not have a pritchel hole. The hardie hole is 1 inch. Thanks for any help you might be able to offer. Also, the crack extends from top of table, down through and is about 40% to 50% through the width. Paperweight or use it until it busts?
Here are a couple Bottle openers I made and some pictures of the process. 1) Cut a piece of your selected bar stock 7 ½” long 2) Upset on end until length is about 7 ¼” long let cool Mark piece ¾” and 1” from upset end and make 1/8” cuts with a hacksaw connecting around the four sides of the bar stock 3) Draw out 1 ¾” of the opposite end of your piece 4 sided taper but run the last 3/8” out very flat about 1/8” thick down to a point . it will be a short stocky looking draw out until total length is 8 ¾” 4)Start curling the last ½” back over the bar stock. You want a ¼” coming back over with a ¼” gap between the tip and the stock. 5)Next heat the upset end until white hot. Use a vice, sized open end wrench and adjustable wrench to twist the end. Twist the farthest cut from the upset end, go past 3/8 twist then come back to 1/4 turn. Use your open end wrench to hold the piece between your cuts, using an adjustable wrench return the upset butt end back to the orientation of the rest of your opener. 6)Now you add your design on the handle of you opener. Personally I like to hot stamp patterns, use a 1/2” bar, or spring fuller to make indentations on the corners every ¾” and then stamp on the flat side of the stock.*Note*You can make stamps the same way you make other tools high carbon steel heat up and air cool use files saws, dremal,,,,ect to make your design and then temper. In the picture a some of my stamps. 7)Next put some curve in your opener using a hardy bending tool so you don’t mess up your stamp work. *Note*If you curve it first it will straighten back out as you stamp 8)Remove from vice, brush of scale, and finish with antirust of your choice. Forge on my Friends!!!! David C.Kailey MorganJade Ironworks, Spokane, Wa
I was considering buying a harbor freight letter stamps set for putting my initials on forged work. The website claims that the stamps are High carbon, Although we all know that harbor freight tools are often of dubious quality. If I get the iron hot enough, will the stamps hold up? Any thoughts? http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/stamping/36-piece-1-4-quarter-inch-steel-letter-number-stamping-set-35121.html If this is a bad Idea, then where would I get a real touchmark?