mike-hr

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About mike-hr

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    Klamath Falls, OR

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    Klamath Falls, Oregon

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  1. I watched Frank Trousil and Mark Krause do a powerhammer workshop last year. They had a 2B Nazel that ran real smooth. I liberated this idea from them, and am quite pleased with the time it took to make it. There's no return spring on the treadle, it comes back with a counterweight now.
  2. Thanks, folks! I think this will be a fun demo. fairly fast, simple, and people love to see holes drifted that exceed the width of the parent stock.
  3. This is on a display table at the Mining Park in Tonopah, NV. I thought I would make one for an upcoming demo I have, but it would be nice to know what it is. Thanks, mike
  4. The lightswitch, and my brain... I would suggest you use the same next time you ask an openended question.
  5. It was awful stormy yesterday, I ended up retreating to the shop all day and addressing an issue I've had. It's a challenge to make a separate set of tongs for every flat bar in the shop. After remembering to stay hydrated, I started sketching, then forging and machining, and the thing works. The tong design came from some notes I took at a Mark Aspery class, 10+ years ago. I revisited the idea recently, and I really like them for square and round. I incorporated the removable bit idea to deal with differing widths and thickness of flat stock. The hex bolts thread to and fro to keep the reigns at a comfy gripping space. Started with 1/2 x 1" flat bar. More pics
  6. That's pretty nifty. Brazing rod puddles for the stand out part?
  7. Started with 5 inches of 1-1/4" round. Started upsetting it with the Kinyon hammer just to see what would happen. It started to take on a roundish shape after a few heats, so I went with it. Came out 2-1/4" diameter.
  8. Gerald, I just drifted it so it would use my goto handle, 24-28oz machinist handle. I buy them in case lots and try to use them on everything I make, so all my hammers feel the same to my hands.
  9. I can't comment on the electrics, but I think there's a basic mechanical problem in your sketch. Your spring, or swaybar is drawn horizontally, and as the hammer raises, the distance from the center pivot point to the slide changes, and I don't see a way to compensate in the drawing. I think a shackle on the front would not transfer power very well.
  10. It was 2 weeks before Christmas and I get a call from a lady that doesn't know what to get her husband for a present, but she knows he wants a hand made small axe. I had never made one on the fold and weld style, but I found a nice tutorial by Gerald Boggs on the Mark Aspery youtube channel. Off I went to the shop, and by golly, it worked. I made this one yesterday to keep the muscle memory alive. I messed with Geralds dimensions a bit to make a smaller eye that I already have drifts for. To be honest, I'd rather punch and drift a hole in solid stock, the drifting process on the wrapped style threatens to peel the forge weld apart, and often succeeds. They do have a cool factor though. I inserted a spring steel bit into the cutting edge, and etched it a bit. the dissimilar metals add to the nifty look. After hardening, I did the mandrel eye temper to get some colors, and finished with Renaissance wax. Thanks for doing that video, Gerald, the husband was all kinds of happy, and I got some cash for Christmas cheer.
  11. My best advice would be, 'listen to the fire'. When you are cranking the blower, the fire should have a noticeable roar. If it doesn't, stick the pokey tool to the bottom of the fire while cranking, and give it a slight lift. If it doesn't roar then, clean it out.
  12. I was shooting in the dark when I did the lg100, and it was confusing as one of the parts works upside down. I backed off for a couple days, bought a slab of hard maple, glued and squared the wood so it was the same size as my steel blanks. I cut my dovetails and tapers in the maple first. it was fast, tangible, and helped me work out the cobwebs in my head
  13. I'm sure you can save it. On the one I did (not saying it was correct), I marked the edge of the lower die that will end up being closest to the operator. I didn't taper this side, so it would lay against the sow block always. I called that point 'Home'. I cut the taper out of the off side, and used the key to drive the die toward 'Home'. Make sense? I think you can re-mill the off side with the 1/8/ft scenario, and be fine.
  14. Several concerns.. I see by the mill setup you are cutting the dovetail angle, but is this also tapered? you would need a shim between the die and the mill table. The LG100 I made dies for, the sow block had approx. 1/8inch/foot taper. I reproduced this by sticking a 1/16" TIG filler under one end of the 6 inch parallels on the mill vise. I feel your 5 gallons ain't enough, and the heat in the center will temper out any hardening you can get. I used a 15G beer keg with warm water. The die screamed a bit, but had good results. Read up on Prussian Blue to dial the wedge key in, plan on a good half day to get 90% involvement. It's been a year since I did this, I'm a bit fuzzy on who is tapered, and who isn't. Hopefully someone will chime in and correct me.
  15. I use Norgren valves, 1/2 in ports on the 5-port, 1/4 in port on the roller shuttle. I dont see the need for 3/4 inch ports unless the air cylinder is similar equipped. 5 port valve is Norgren MN01CGA73A000,, Mcmaster # 6124K36 Roller shuttle is Norgren X3064222,, Mcmaster# 8277K14 If you get the hammer running to your liking, I recommend buying spares to keep on the shelf.