Chisels, Gouges, Scissors, etc

I bought this to use the metal to make some punches ala ABANA level 1 curriculum. What was this “plus sign” ended chisel originally for?

I didn't expect this topic to be here. I'm a sometimes amateur guitar maker, sometimes amateur woodworker and often amateur toolmaker with a nod mostly toward wooden planes and chisels in the pre-1900 English styles because those are the ones I like most when actually working wood. I've mostly tapered flat stock at the anvil and then forge welded on a steel bolster to my chisels - they're always all steel and not wrought with a welded bit or anything, heat treated by eye. But I am pretty serious about that - about trying to beat the book stats on tested samples and shrink grain so that hardened samples are finer than commercial stuff of similar alloy. it also has so…

Here is a link to an article on a pair of Celtic sicssors from Munich (Muchen) plus a sword from circa 300 BC that are still shiney and could be picked up and used. https://www.thehistoryblog.com/archives/67142 "By hammer and hand all ares do atand."

I was visiting a friend yesterday, and he showed me a lovely pair of sheep shears that’s part of his collection of wool-textile-related objects. The handles are cast iron, and the blades and spring are steel riveted into place. Really beautifully made and super comfortable to hold; the little nubbins on the handles guide your fingers into the most natural and effective grip. No maker’s mark, so no clue where they were made. My friend paid nine bucks for them at Liberty Tool in Maine.

Very little handwork here, but I found the flux applicator and the use of a rolling mill for setting the welds to be rather interesting.

I wanted to show this new ( almost ) bo-hi cutter . It is custom made by a friend of mine . Has changeable cutter 1/4" made from carbide , You can buy cutter pieces anywhere . It works better than any japanese cutter (Sen) and you can easily change the tool cutters . It has guide that rests on Spine ( Mune) and will make fullers as straight as can be ..... What do you think ?....... James Ps you can also polish fuller with this , simply by altering shape of blade to a more rounded shape.

I forged this set of incanal wood carving gouges from 1080 steel. The handles are walnut and copper.

I made a set of Wood turning parting tools for my stepson yesterday they could of been finished better but they had to be finished last night. The plain one is made from 1080 crane rail track and is 6mm thick and the birds eye one is crane rail and band saw blade and is 3mm thick

sorry for the inconvenience, I would like to make a similar tool to mow the weeds and bushes in my garden, I do not have a motor brush cutter, every time I have to borrow it. I think this rake-like tool that cuts like a razor and swings like a hoe could be useful to me, do you think it is efficient or would it be better to adopt a classic scythe? thanks, I wait for opinions and suggestions. DIMENSIONS 40″h × 14.13″w × 2.5″d how should i build it what materials i could reuse

Hi, I have two antique framing chisels, one made by George W. Underhill (founder of underhill edge tool company), and the other by George Hight of Gorham, Maine. Both have mushroomed sockets, and I was wondering if anyone here might be able to fix them. Thanks

Hi. I have a hand forged LH Watts (1800’s) shipwright’s chisel. 1.5” wide x 7” long. The handle broke and someone damaged 1.5” of the socket. I cut the damaged portion off. Does anyone have advice of what would be the most effective way to fix the socket and get it back to its original length? The thicker part of the socket is about 1/4” and the thinner part is 1/8”. Thank you in advance.

So I have started to look into engravig and was wondering how hard it is to make the gravers and what to make them from, so any ideas?

My first try at using low layer pattern welding for these two woodworking chisels. The mahogany handle on the smaller chisel came from a 19th c. Milwaukee floorboard, while the other handle is a nice piece of ironwood.

I would like to build a Japanese Sen as a means to cut bevels verses filing and grinding. There are different designs. One is 85* front cutting edge and 90 rear, another is 35 and 35 respectively. I have reasoned a compromise of 67.5 and 90 front and back. Basically a concave blade side down riding on the cutting edges. im also planning on using an old file. blade dimensions will roughly 1.5 in x 3. This is what i have chose. Any thoughts, experience, or advise?

I made these from a small billet left over from something else and my wife will probably get them if they turn out ok. They have only had a quick and rough polish to see how the pattern turned out and when finished will get a coffe etch for more contrast. they are going to be sewing sissors

I'm in dire need of a drawknife, and have a rear spring from a Model A Ford. So, I fire up the forge and cut off a short piece of it. I got it forged out and shaped, filed an edge on it, and now needs heat treat and handles. I gave it a test drive in it's "as forged" condition, it works pretty well. Can only get better once heat treated and honed to a scalpel sharpness.

Made a side scraper from a file, and a small square scraper. Was wondering about steel prybars. Is a Stanley prybar hard enough to be used or hold an edge long enough for turning tools? Spark test aside? Dont have access to a bench grinder right now. just a 4" angle grinder and an out of production Delta wetstone sharpener.

So, I was able to get the video put together with footage from my own camera and then more footage supplied by Marc Sitkin. the Shop is the Moses Wilder blacksmith shop in Bolton, MA it was reconstructed from the original prints that OSV (Old strubridge villiage) made when they tore down and rebuilt the shop at the villiage as part of the Museum. Of course this reconstructed one is like new.. The owner did s stellar job on all of it.. Crazy really.

Was contacted by the EAIA (Early American Industry Association) and asked if I would be interested in making a video of forging a wood carving chisel the old way.. I said sure.. Today was filming day and while I don't have any footage finished I do have a few photo's. Last Thursday I went over and did the story board pieces and today was complete forging including the washer.. Made from 5/8" sq wrought iron with rasp for cutting edge I don't have very many detail pics as I left the items there for filming. I scooted out just after bevel for edge was put on. 4hrs start to finish with filming. it was interesting as I noticed I have a tendency t…

I have completed my first draw knife today, I have wanted to make one of these for ages for hammer and axe handles. It was made from an off cut from a crane rail that is 1080 steel

I forged out a bent handle chisel from O1 stock, but had cracks at the point where the handle met the chisel body, which I gas welded with ER70s rod. The cracking continued to be a problem, but I thought i had it whipped until I was trying to rivet the end of the tang on the handle, and the whole handle fell off. i want to save the work I did; any advice on welding on a tang? I have gas, stick, and TIG equipment available.

I have just completed my first scissors as a practice, I intend to make more but out of pattern welded steel. Those were forged from 2 grade 12.9 counter sunk bolts. At start I had forged and partly ground the taper the wrong way but was able to correct the mistake I have removed the thread as this is bad for cold shuts and removed the tapered head for ease of forging as well

Hi, I know that Titanium it is very hard material. I have some bars of Titanium and I wonder if it is a good idea to make from it chisels. Is it posible to forge Titanium and is ther advaced to use this material for chisels? I would appreciate your advice on this issue. Regards, Rob

Hi, On the weekend, I planned to make some hooks for bowl turning on a bowl lathe from some coil springs. I heated the springs in a coal fire with air blowing through it from a vacuum cleaner. At first, the straightening of the spring seemed to be going well; I was hating one end, placing over a metal post in the ground, and pulling to form a straight rod. On the third heating however, I went to pull the spring out of the forge, and it came apart into two pieces. Once cooled, the broken end seemed to have a very grainy texture (see photo). I promptly gave up, as I was worried that I might have got hold of the wrong coil spring. I would appreciate your input on …

I attempted at it today with an incredible failure.. and I cant find a single one for sale to compare too.. It is a cutting tool right? not a scraping tool? so it should be relativly sharp, and higher carbon/harder than normal.. so file steel would probably be good.. the only thing I have to go by is a youtube video of cheness cutlery using one.. and it looks like it has a really slight angle. but I cant see if it has a more obtuse angle at the tip of the blade because it is cutting steel.. but ya, if anyone can help me out in finding one for sale or a way to make one please... -Thanks again..