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About bobasaurus

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    : Colorado
  • Interests
    Woodworking, blacksmithing, computers, bicycling.

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  1. I made three glowing rectangles yesterday. They are going to become tapered extra-wide laminated hand plane blades for an upcoming competition (kezurou-kai colorado). Starrett O1 cutting edge, 1018 body, ~3x6x1/4". I mig welded all the way around to keep oxygen off the forge weld.
  2. There are adzes setup both ways, but typically an outside bevel (outcannel) is desirable as it allows for better control of the bowl wall curvature (you can adjust the angle of the adze and it will follow the bevel in a swooping cut).
  3. I recently completed this pair of bowl adzes. Mild steel bodies with forge-welded high-carbon edges. One has a low layer 1080/15n20 pattern-welded edge and a moradillo handle. The other has an old file as the edge and an apple handle. Finished with Tried & True Varnish Oil. The moradillo one is headed to the Richard Arnold Charity Auction in the UK as a donation. I'm keeping the other.
  4. I made the dragon head into a key rack I can screw to the wall. Also started making a small wooden box with dovetail joinery today.
  5. Das, those are some great roses. I like the leaf details too. Frosty, do you have a photo of your vise rest? I'm not picturing it, but it sounds handy. I used mine today to make my first dragon head, and you're right about it slipping in the vise and scarring the shaft:
  6. Wow, that's a great fireplace screen. I made this crazy-looking jig today. It's roughly copied from one I saw in a Black Bear Forge video about forging a dragon head. It allows the head to be supported in the vise and be supported from below (at an angle) while chiseling the facial features. Hopefully it works, may have to reinforce the top lip. I used random stuff around the shop instead of buying the proper materials, but it was fun to practice welding.
  7. Thanks, horse. I already gave it away so I don't have a good size reference. The final face diameter is about 1 1/4" after grinding. It's on the large side for a chasing hammer, but not too bad.
  8. Thanks. It's hard to tell in the photos, but the face does have a slight crown. If I were making it for planishing or other body work, I would leave it harder.
  9. I made this jewelers chasing/repousse hammer for my Father's xmas gift. It started as a 1" diameter bar. I tapered one side to 3/4", then upset the other end to make a ~1.5" rivet-style head. I then punched and drifted the eye. Everything else was ground to shape, as it's very tricky to forge in the delicate fullers on a small hammer like this. It is heat treated, but tempered back to be fairly soft on the face to allow for better gripping of the chasing tool shanks. I turned the handle from apple wood, the wedges are jatoba. Shellac and renaissance wax finish.
  10. My neighbor stopped by with a 5' section of railroad track today. After he helped move it onto my property, he asked for a knife in exchange... couldn't really refuse, so I made a this quick spike knife. It has a piece of an old file forge-welded on for the cutting edge. Etched to show the transition from spike to file.
  11. I recently finished this pattern-welded integral bolster chef knife, can't wait to start using it. I started with 8 layers of 1080 and 15n20 steel, forge welded them together, twisted the whole mess as much as I could, then forged to a knife-ish shape before grinding. I did the heat treatment in the forge, quenching in preheated canola oil and tempering in my kitchen oven. My logo is electro-etched on there and then gold plated to look fancy. The handle is cocobolo with a mosaic pin and copper spacer.
  12. I got to see a lot of these in person a couple weeks back, very nice work. Matt is a great demonstrator too.
  13. Hah, love the railroad spikes. Looks like it will work fine.
  14. My kanna blade made from cable and an old file is coming along. The pattern is showing up post-quench:
  15. I love the tentacle. Could you share more information about how it was forged?