Jbradshaw Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 14 minutes ago, BIGGUNDOCTOR said: Be careful with O1, thin sections will air harden. Thanks for the heads up. I forged a couple carving knives from O1 recently (a spoon knife and a detail carver) but haven't had time to do the heat treat yet. 9 minutes ago, bobasaurus said: I really wish I had a good way of forging shoulders that the handles could sit on, instead of the tang going right into the gouge body. I might try to make some dies that would work with this, or some kind of guillotine / spring fuller tool. If you started with round stock shoulders would be easy. But then you would need to flatten it out for the blade. I'm too inexperienced to have an idea about how to produce shoulders in flat stock (I'm sure you could make it round but I've never tried going flat to round). I will be watching to see what you come up with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 You could use a nail header type tool to forge shoulders. They look nice. IME they are not worth the effort though. I have made simple hidden tang chisels that work just fine even for pretty heavy hammering (which is an unusual way to work with gouges or chisels... excepting maybe mortise chisels). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormcrow Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 You did some beautiful work here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobasaurus Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 On 2/9/2017 at 7:07 PM, SLAG said: Bob, Check out Alexander Weygers book The Complete Modern Blacksmith. It has great instructions on making that kind of tool. He was a professional wood sculptor and made his own tools, especially gouges. What sweep are those gouges? (London Pattern number). SLAG. I picked up that book, it's a good read. Thanks for the recommendation. It's interesting how he prefers stock removal to forging in the early chapters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAG Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Bobasurus,, Look what I just found. A full set of gouge sweeps. That will save you form searching. The sweep numbers are English profiles. European notation are different. (for example in the Swiss gouge maker catalogue by"Pfeil" Bunkies fasten your seatbelts, and hold onto your hats! The wonderful benefactor of this chart is a company whose logo should remind you of fruit / & a pair of them. SLAG. Bad links removed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Remember that the Complete Modern Blacksmith is a combination of *3* of his books of which only 1, The Modern Blacksmith was definitely smithing oriented (The Making of Tools, The Modern Blacksmith and The Recycling, Use and Repair of Tools) You can buy a used copy of just the Modern Blacksmith if you like... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAG Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Pilgrims, Allow me to add a few notes to accompany the sweep chart above. As denoted the measurements are in millimeters. The sweeps in the chart are not exact. For example, the 40 mm sweep 4 is 52 mm, and the 40 mm of sweep 3 measures 56 mm on the chart. In other words they are approximate. But the sweep charts will give the sweep number. Just place the gouge's sharp end down on the chart and determine which sweep corresponds closest with the curvature of the "new" gouge blade. I hope that these additional notes clarify the chart and the method of determining the sweep-number of the gouge. Regards, SLAG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnBello Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 On 2/23/2017 at 12:06 AM, SLAG said: Allow me to add a few notes to accompany the sweep chart above. And now, we head for the IT forum with a new wave of computer monitors stabbed with chisels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAG Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 OUCH! SLAG. Andres, For the love of the Lord, print out the chart and place your new gouge upon the print out. Give the monitor a break. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 What you didn't print it out on mylar and do a photo etch of it and hang the metal sheet on the shop wall as a try guage? How very odd...One of the reason I like hardcopy is that it deals better with the forge environment than computer stuff does... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockstar.esq Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 Bobasaurus, Weyger's three-book set includes a section on making an upsetting tool for the anvil that can be used to forge a bolster. As memory serves, he also recommended using something like a monkey tool to push a slightly undersized round fender washer onto the square tool shank to achieve a press-fit bolster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobasaurus Posted March 17, 2017 Author Share Posted March 17, 2017 On 3/17/2017 at 11:47 AM, rockstar.esq said: Weyger's three-book set includes a section on making an upsetting tool for the anvil that can be used to forge a bolster. That's interesting, I'll have to finish reading the set. The washer idea is clever, I just made an integral bolster knife where this trick would have been useful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benton Frisse Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 Awesome chisels! How did you grind that bevel like that? I recently tried my hand at a bowl adze and grinding that bevel inside of the curve was so tough... luckily it fit my contact wheel on my old 1x30 just perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 I would use the very small radius contact wheel on my bader to do the inside bevel and use the slack belt to smooth the back of the chisels. By hand: rough in with a curved or round file and then wrap SiC paper around various dowels to get to close, then heat treat and more SiC on a dowel until you are ready for a gouge hone to finish the edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobasaurus Posted March 17, 2017 Author Share Posted March 17, 2017 1 hour ago, Benton Frisse said: Awesome chisels! How did you grind that bevel like that? I recently tried my hand at a bowl adze and grinding that bevel inside of the curve was so tough... luckily it fit my contact wheel on my old 1x30 just perfect. I don't have a lot of grinding equipment, so I mostly used a 3/4" dia sanding drum on my flex shaft grinder. I honed it with a dowel in my wood lathe coated in green chromium oxide compound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted March 31, 2019 Share Posted March 31, 2019 On 2/10/2017 at 7:35 AM, JHCC said: Here's an easier method, if your gouges have a constant radius: put each one edge-down on a piece of soft wood, and swivel to scribe a circle. Measure. Or you could measure them with a set of radius gauges. Very simple cheap tool set that I rely upon heavily in tool and die work. Makes life easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted April 1, 2019 Share Posted April 1, 2019 On 2/22/2017 at 11:06 PM, SLAG said: add a few notes to accompany the sweep chart above. When I tried to open the sweep charts I got a warning about infected links (or something like that) and now I see they are no longer here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted April 1, 2019 Share Posted April 1, 2019 The chart links are infected and were removed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted April 1, 2019 Share Posted April 1, 2019 Good move, we have been lucky in that dosen't happen very often on the forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 1, 2019 Share Posted April 1, 2019 And only the Chinese spam from time to time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAG Posted April 1, 2019 Share Posted April 1, 2019 Bob S., Too bad about the infected chart links. I suggest that you look up some of the chisel makers in order to find a useful sweep chart. A few manufacturers are e.g. Pfeil, Henry Taylor, Three Cherries etc. etc. There are sweep charts depicted in the catalogues of wood tool sellers such as Woodcraft, Garret-Wade, etc. I just checked the former cited seller, which has the chart you are looking for.* Hope that helps, SLAG. *I would have put up a net address but my control-c, control-v function does not work on this site. It works on all the other sites I frequent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 1, 2019 Share Posted April 1, 2019 Works for me using Chrome on Windows 10, just tried it to put this here: "I would have put up a net address but my control-c, control-v function does not work on this site" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Murray Posted September 2, 2022 Share Posted September 2, 2022 I ve been asked by a friend to make a 4" or 5" wood gouge. He owns a landscape company and they are making a children's playground for nearby town they have some large 4 or 5ft in diameter logs ,and they are hollowing out the centers for tunnels. He wants a large gouge on a shovel handle to do some finishing after the chainsaws. Not sure what type of steel to use. I have some large saw blades I was thinking of cutting out 3 pattern pieces and forge weld them together then make the gouge from that.or I have hundreds of old farrier rasp i could grind down and use them ,or icould look for an old leaf spring,but he kinda needs it quick and it's a long weekend so can.t really hit the scrap yard till next week. Was going to make it my project this weekend. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted September 2, 2022 Share Posted September 2, 2022 Use non carbide saw blades. The carbides bodies are soft steel plate where as mono steel care many times L6 a chrome/moly alloy which is near perfect for this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 2, 2022 Share Posted September 2, 2022 Old farming disks were good heat treatable steel and a lot thicker than most saw blades. Have they thought of making a chisel for a pneumatic "gun"? (New disks may be an odd alloy we can't work very well.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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