Chisels, Gouges, Scissors, etc

havent posted anything for a while so here i go. this is a set of four ice-carving chisels i forged for a coworker at the resort i was working at last december. the sizes are, for the flat blades, 1'', 2'',and 3'' or slightly more, and the v chisel is 1.5'' on each side of the V. forged from leaf spring. just shorter, but the angle is slightly more blunt because ice is pretty soft.

I've been experimenting with making wood working tools recently...so I made three chisels today. These ones are made from 1095 and curly maple. The runes read "carver" denoting the job they perform plus where they were made (my shop in Carver MN) the big straight chisel is about 13 inches long and 1.5 inches wide to give you an idea of scale. Thanks for looking!

has anyone forged socket chisels, gouges, slicks or anything? anyone can please explain the process well for beginner?

What wears out a bench grinding stone. Grooves good or bad? I use my bench grinder for flat grinding mostly. I use the edge of the stone to debur occasionally. It's kind of rounded on both edges and flat in the middle for flat grinding. But I try not to create grooves and to keep parts moving. In a shop I'm working in I've got full rein, the owners aren't real hands on, as long as the work gets done they seem happy but I want to take care of it. The last folks working there wore a real groove a little to the right of the center. It's only used to debur small round stock and I've been trying to even out the face but without being able to smoothly move side to side I'm m…

I am sharing with you the 2nd (last part) of our documentary movie "The Birth Of A Tool". It shows traditional timber framing chisel/slick making process. Thanks for watching. John

i got 10 min on library computer here goes, file into a gouge, i am half way through, i am running by my plan of action, feedback on what makes sense and not welcomed, soften, heat to non magnetic in oak coals, stuff into ash to slow cool, soft enuf to grind to shape, heat again to create cup along center by impacting with cold chisel with file/gouge in angle iron , heat again to bright orange ? and quench to harden, quench in water probably, is oil better? or different result? temper to desired hardness, straw color?, bluish? this is where i am especially not sure, mount into handle and gouge away the oak burl into a bowl. i have done cold shaping/poundin…

i have been asked to make 2 woodworking framing chisels and 1 woodworking slick like these http://barrtools.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=BT&Product_Code=FB&Category_Code=SLG http://barrtools.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=BT&Product_Code=FC112&Category_Code=FBC http://barrtools.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=BT&Product_Code=FC2&Category_Code=FBC what steel would you suggest i use? i was thinking 1045 or 1085 or maybe W2

I've been lookin to play with my anvil I've had for most of 30 yrs. So I read alot here and there about tools and anvils. Now I've build NASCAR mod and street stocks and had a Jag repair shop. So I'm going threw my tool box lookin to see what tricks are in the drawers. I come across my air chisel/hammer http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-short-air-chisel-set-68277.html http://www.harborfreight.com/3x-air-riveting-hammer-with-5-piece-chisel-set-97857.html The tools that fit that tool also fit the punch hole, so I'm thinkin about using them there till I make some tools for the hardie hole. I don't have any idea of doing anything heavy work on the just playin n learnin…

For those of us who know the anguish of breaking a cold saw blade here's a little tip to make a little lemonade from your newly acquired lemon........The remnants of the blade are of course HSS steel and can be made into little scribe/scrapers that are very useful. Use the plaz or grinder to shape and finish and you'll get some good use from em'.

I was visiting my Grandfather a few weeks ago and he mentioned wanting to make some axe handles and that he was having a hard time finding a decent drawknife. He'd picked up one at a farm auction a while back but it was missing handles and wouldn't take an edge. After examining the one he had I concluded that the blade was too worn to warrant reforging so I found a blueprint (thanks to Jay F. Knowlton for putting it together) online for making a drawknife dug up a rusty file out of my scrap pile and forged him a new one. I'm not quite done with the file work yet, once that's finished I'll heat treat and make some wooden handles to go on it.

recently, i've become interested in forging some woodworking chisels; due to the find of a lovely old halts bruks wide mouth chisel, which is missing its handle. i'd like them to look, and feel fairly authentic, and intend to make some flat bit chisels first, as practice, however, the question i pose to you all is how i would forge the shoulder in the chisel tang to secure it: would i draw out the tang, then upset it into a tool similiar to a nail header?. or should i be going about this some other way? any ideas in fitting the handles would be appreciated, i'd really like to see any ideas that you have.

So I'm looking at getting some woodworking tools, and a hand plane is obviously an important piece. There's seemingly a lot of pseudo-science surrounding these but perhaps I shouldn't be so quick to discount it before I try it. Anyway, people often say that it helps to buy a third party blade if you're buying a less than top of the line hand plane. It seems strange that the types of steel used would really differ that much. But on to my question: What's the ideal type of steel for making these blades?

carving tools forged for a customer hofi

carving tools forged for a customer hofi hofi

Hi! ive got a quick question on metal engraving - I was hoping to stamp some names onto a fire poker and thus was looking for advice or guides on the best practices. The only experience I have so far is using a chisel, taking a red heat and crudely marking some nordic runes into a ring - though the result was fine it was alittle hap hazard. Best Regards,

I ma looking for some chisel steel to make lathe chisels etc. Any ideas what supplier I could go with. I was also curious if coil springs would be a acceptable alternative? Thanks Marcus B

i made this for a guy that has helped me for some time now, he calls me "Blacksmith", and has had me forge a couple things for him, and a few rough blades because he does stock removal knives. he asked to make him this and he said he had the steel and i could have what didn't get used in the chisel. he gave me three 2-2.5 foot pieces of 1 inch hex jackhammer bit.i had to upset the end to get enough mass to spread it this wide.

I have a great Friend who is a well known and very successful mason that I live pretty far away from now. I want him to have one of my smith made items as he is not around to experience this Blacksmithing phase of my life. I talked with him on the phone and asked him about the tools of his trade and he thought that a good toothed stone chisel would be something that he would enjoy and use. I acquired a couple of these old jackhammer bits at auctions and thought they would be ideal raw material. I was able to cut them just above the collar so that they already had this nice finger guard feature. Then I lengthened the taper toward the edge a fair amount and widened the…

I know its not the ideal steel for hot chisels but i have a piece of 4140 that is the perfect size for a slitter..Anyone tried it? How would you temper the 4140 for a chisel?

Having only two hands, I finally stopped and made some veining tools. One is for the center vein and the other for the laterals. The lateral tool uses a 3/4" bolt for the anvil and can be swapped out for different shapes. I didn't have any tool steel the size that I needed so I turned down a cheap chisel on the lathe.

I enjoy woodworking and make my own chisels. I either forge weld a high carbon steel to mild steel or just start with high carbon steel from say hay rake tines. For the handle, I forge a tenon and upset the shoulders using a monkey tool. This gives a better shoulder on which the end of the handle is supported. I just drill a hole in suitable handle material and pound on to the chisel tang. The Japanese style chisels have a tenon or split tenon forged on a cone shaped section which gives more shoulder for the handle to rest against. I assume a clapper type die is used to forge the cone shape from the parent stock which is probably a 3/4 or 1' rd stock. Could someone who…

I just got through looking through several blacksmithing sights looking for something to punch or make holes in hot fresh from the fire metal. Instead in all my looking all I have achieved is to become even more and more confused about what punches and chisels can and can not be used for, so? :confused: What do I need to be looking for to make holes without drilling them using punches or chisels or what? I apologize for the question as I though I knew but the more I looked the more confused I got. But, then again if you don't ask you can't learn. So if anyone has advice on brand or type (with or with out handle) or style anything that want brake the bank please let me…

Does anyone know of someone who makes swage blocks? I am looking to make some chisels and would like a swage block with a few chisel shapes in it. Maybe someone with a backyard foundry?

Hey, Guys! I was kinda pleased with the way this one came out: It's a spring steel blade, forged bolster, epoxy-set tang with a copper cap ferrule and an Osage orange wood handle. It cuts b-yu-tifully -- the shearing action REALLY makes the wood just melt apart! Anyway, thanks for looking, Leland

I was wondering if anyone had some advice on how to form a handle socket on a wood chisel. I was thinking of shouldering at the base of the handle and drawing the metal in to a fan shape and then rolling this into the socket. Are there other easier ways? Welding is not an option for me. thanks