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I Forge Iron

Jobtiel1

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About Jobtiel1

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    Zeeland, Netherlands

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  1. Yes, I tried heating the bolt initially before we decided to drill a new hole through it but that didn't work. I'm going to try to get up the whole area around the pivot hole and try to hammer the stuck piece out with a drift next.
  2. Hi, This is the piece of the old bolt still stuck inside the pivot hole of the vise.
  3. I got some time in today before exam week starts. I made a metal scribe trying to replicate Joey vds's one. Not quite happy with how the clip turned out, but I've only been smithing for half a year so it's just something for me to practice on. And also started on the backplate of a norfolk latch for my new shed/smithy in the new house.
  4. Daswulf: yeah I think I have quite a clean coal then, I see only small bits of shiny clinker when I clean the forge out, but a lot of dark unburnt ash and small pieces of what I presume is coke. I think I will follow your lead and forge a spoon for taking out the clinker too! I just have to make sure I clean the fire in such a way that I can easily restart it again. Thomas: first off all, thanks for your help and tips on this and several of my other recent posts. I have a foot pedal cranked blower on the river forge. So far I haven't forge welded on the river forge, as I read that it is m
  5. Anachronist, as soon as I start working in it I'll send update this thread with a picture of what's inside the hole. Iron dragon, yes, I was thinking the same now, the reason this bolt is in it now is because I took the vise to my brother's work, he works on a shipyard. There we took out the rusted bolt. Before we left we took the largest fitting bolt we could find. Since then I haven't tried to remove the left over bolt, as the stand isn't usable yet. But I'll try remove it now! And yes, the I wanted to straighten the handle too, but my brother convinced me it was part of the vise's
  6. I have to remove it from the stand anyway to make a new one, so I might as well loosen the bolt and the screw and see if I can make a thicker bolt fit in. And that's a great idea! I think I will do that! I have found some small marking which i think is the catalog number, as in "vise number 8). So I have no idea who made it. But putting in my great great grandfather a name and my own seems like a great idea!
  7. Thomas, I wasn't clear in my posts sorry, I meant that the threaded ends of the bolts were 14-16 mm thick for the new one and (corrected, I looked it up) 18 mm thick for the old one. So the difference is maybe 2 to 4 mm in thickness max. I'll take them out and see if I can remove the old bolts and fit in a thicker bolt before using, if not, I have some 18 mm round lying around so the wedged "bolt" idea might be interesting too. Again, thanks for the tip! I was kind of worried about downsizing but hearing it from more experienced smiths makes me feel like it will be a real issue later on.
  8. Thanks for the advice Thomas! If I remember correctly the bolts in it are now 14 or 16 mm threads, while the original bolts had 20 mm threads. I'm planning on using the vice for upsetting tong jaws for box jaw tongs and other upsetting operations, and drifting hammer, top tool, and axe eyes. You think this will be too rough on the smaller bolts? Job
  9. Thomas: unfortunately I had too, a larger bolt didn't fit with pieces of the previous bolt still in the pivot hole, I haven't used the vise yet, If this will be a problem I will try to fix it before using the vise.
  10. Hi all, I made a post maybe a month or two ago asking for help on restoring a leg vise from my great-great-grandfather's workshop. Which I restored after it being used as garden decoration by my parents for about 20 years. Following advice from forum members I thought it was nice to show the results. I forged a new spring from a salvaged leaf spring. I also welded new threads on the mounting plate and had to cut out the pivot bolt, and obviously replace that bolt as well. Now it's all greased up, and nearly ready to use! I just need to make a new stand for it since my improvised
  11. I made a pair of box jaw tongs to grip bar stock I salvaged from the scrap bin at my brother's work for better handling while I'm using the bar stock for more tong making. Due to popular demand from my friends who are into Viking related stuff, I started practicing on making some fire strikers from coil springs. I feel I made this one too thick, and the scrolls don't align, but that just means I got to practice more.
  12. I managed to take some pictures of the engravings on the anvil today for anyone interested. I have asked around and no one seems to know what they mean, except for the 1778 of course.
  13. Glenn, this doesn't seem like too much of a problem, and doing this often will inevitably lead to me being faster and better at it! Thanks for the helps, is it however normal for the clinkers to be quite small? I'm talking about 1 cm diameter max.
  14. Glenn, thanks for your reply! I was forging when I got the notification of your post, and I tried to fish out the clinkers once my fire got noticeably duller and colder again. However, I noticed that I was unable to fish out any clinker, even after the forge was completely cooled down, the clinker I could find were all small pieces. Could this be due to the absence of a firepot? Or am I missing something on removing clinker from the fire? As it is now, I'd have to completely break up the fire to remove clinker every ~2 hours. Anvil, thanks for the tip! I know of Joey, and am a fan of his
  15. Hi all, I'm posting this update to help people in the future if they encounter the same problem. My problem with the small fire was due to dust and clinker/ small bits of coal in the forge. After cleaning out all the dust and starting with fresh coals my fire works as it did again. Thanks for all the replies tho! Oh, and Anvil, thanks for the help with the fire poker, it works way better than turning the clinker breaker does!
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