BeaverNZ

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About BeaverNZ

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Invercargill New Zealand
  • Interests
    Dirt bikes, Engineering, Hot rods, Knife making, Steam powered items Mainly traction engines, fixing old machinery, Making anything out of metal

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1,621 profile views
  1. Motor and pump compatibility

    The pump just wont develop the design pressure and the smoke will quickly all leak out of the motor and it wont go any more
  2. Wow Im going to try coffe if it makes the colours pop loike that, Beutifull blade by the way Cheers Beaver
  3. bicycle chain kitchen knife

    I like that alot it looks like an Xray
  4. matching pump and cylinder pressures

    The problem you will have is the ram you have because of its lower design pressure to get the same tonnage it will have a larger bore which means it has a greater displacement so it will be slow. That pump because of its high design pressure and lower flow output is intended to work smaller dia rams which have a smaller displacement but because of the high pressure still will have a good speed AND tonnage. The trick with hydraulics is to have matched components, You need a ram designed for the pump to get good performance otherwise it will be a compromise. Because the rams design pressure is about one third of the pressure to get the same tonnage a matched high pressure ram could produce it will need three times the piston area with means three times the displacement which means one third of the speed a matched system would have. DONOT TRY 10000psi in the ram Cheers Beaver
  5. Hydraulic press

    Very nicely finished Congrats Cheers Beaver
  6. Homemade rigidizer?

    Frosty Thankyou very much for compressing all that great info into one area there are several things that you have enlightened me in that I have been trying to find about ridgidiser use and when to cut the burner ports now i have some specifics I will finish my gas bottle forge. Cheers Beaver
  7. Hello Thomas Hmmm I thought someone might say freehand and thats probably what will happen and my officail work title is a fitter welder A so i have a foot in each camp welding and machining and now Im doing my best to add forging which is a lot different in how you think about how to make things, Volume instead of size. I think it may be time to bite the bullet and make my smaller variable speed linisher that I have been thinking about for ages Cheers Beaver
  8. I am at the point of the final finishing of my blade and I am torn which way to put the edge on my blade, its all heat treated and almost as polished as its going to get before etching but I am wondering on how to stop the distal taper from affecting the width of the bevel. All the beveling that i have seen on youtube have been quite thick blades and parallal my blade at the thickest where the bevel will start is about 2.6mm down to about 0.9mm at the point. If I use a diamond imbeded flat cutter and a Heim/rose joint set at the correct height and point or maybe one of those little finger belt sandes/power files guided by the same means I have alot of time in this now and dont want to stuff it any suggestions would be good thanks Beaver
  9. A close call

    With hydrualic presses when the press is loaded up with pressure and released there is a spike of very high flow and pressure thats what would of burst the hose you had at the start. The flow may be well over 100 lt min just for a split second. Pressurised oil from a burst hose/pipe is exremely dangerous as you and others have said, when I had bulit my press I was setting the relief valve and the steel pipe blew out of the base of the ram it made a very big bang gave me a hell of a fright it was at about 3000psi. I thought it was my fault by not tightening the fitting correctly so I redid that fitting and checked all the others then cotinued and got to just over 4000psi and the same fitting came apart. There was an explosion this time the pipe wrapped itself around the oil tank, filled the workshop with oil mist and i had lost all faith in the fittings but it turned out that the hydrualics place had steel pipe that was hard and the fittings couldnt imbed into the pipe to get the proper grip .The hydraulic supplier let me use their test bed to pressure test all the fittings after that which helped restore my confidence a bit The fittings I used were aeroquip and they normally never ever do what happened to me I have covered all the fittings with steel guards just incase it happens again as some are head height. The max pressure with my press is 4300 psi with an 8" dia ram Cheers Beaver
  10. Hydraulic press

    The Low hydrogen rod run correctly would be just as effective and alot faster as the tig weld but thats up to you, The mosture that you see when preheating is just water condensing from the flame fuel gas hydrocarbons burning and turned into water and Co2
  11. Hydraulic press

    Nice not too many people have a partly tig welded press frame
  12. Wood splitter as a press

    I believe from others coments that speed may be as important as tonnage see if you can find the max pressure it will develope as an example a 4" ram at 3000psi will develope 16.8 tons if I remember correctly read through what others have put my shop press has 100 tons but is a bit slow and I used to loose alot of heat to the tooling from my work Cheers Beaver
  13. Wood splitter as a press

    Just make sure its actual tonage they are quoting and not some BS psi force at the cutting edge, some of the wood splitter maufacturers work the force on the cutting edge area. So say they had 10000 pounds force which isnt that much but Im making it simple if that had one sq inch that would be 10000 psi if you worked it out with 1/2 sq inch then it doubles the psi force makes it much more impressive on the sales broacher Go for at least a 3.5 or 4"-75or 100mm ram bore that would give you 12 to 15 tons depending on the hydraulic pressure developed Cheers Beaver
  14. Testing hydraulic pump

    Probably the best way is to just take it to a hydraulic shop and get it put on a test bed then there is no risk of damaging the pump/motor/or your self this will incur a cost but if the unit was free its an investment in the future use. A more risky way is to eyeball the gears of the pump for any scoring or dents in the gears, DO NOT conect it up with out a relief valve and pressure gauge and have the relief backed out so you can work up to a pressure setting. The max pressure/ model serial number is usually on a lable or engraved on the pump body. Take it to a hydraulic place is the best bet Cheers Beaver
  15. If I ever say I'm going to build it instead...

    Structural bolts are often called friction grip bolts meaning when they are tightened correctly the two surfaces they are clamping together have enough friction so the bolt is under no or little shear loading. Often the bolts are done up to a certain light torque and then tightened a set amount of degrees with a strong arm bar or a flogging spanner Cheers Beaver