BeaverNZ

This looks like an interesting repair any more pics and info on the progress Cheers Beaver

Hi there obert I just re read my post and there was a typo where i said draw off rale I ment to say draw off rate meaning the amount of gas that can drawn off from the gas bottle at a constant rate without loosing pressure, You can put the bottles in a big tube of warm water to stop them freezing but I have seen on good old youtube people making a temporary coke or coal forge which would probably be the most effective way of making enough heat for what you want and probably the cheapest too. PS that bottom flame looks like it has no where enough air, have a look at the burners section there is heaps of good stuff PSS I think the water fall if it is as you describe would be worth a go Cheers Beaver

Mmmm Motor bike frames Though they would be better if they were dirt bike frames LOL just kidding I am going to be building a yamaha HL 500 frame soon Im making a replica those frames look good Cheers Beaver

Hi there Musky The size of the tyre shouldnt matter much you will just have to change the size of the drive roller if the circumfernce is any differnt. When buliding some thing like this you can usually adapt the plans to what you have Cheers Beaver

I have a number two Norton fly press and the arm that the weights goes on is on an octagonal taper the just requiers a blow with a soft hammer to release it off so you can easily put the arms in a conveniant place to reduce the thwapage to an aceptable level (you can move to eight different positionson the spindle) Cheers Beaver

You could put a hydraulic ram in with a relief valve set only as a safety and maybe a hand pump so you could change the working height as you were worling Cheers Beaver

Yes burning ear wax does sizzle and the worst burning smell is burning flesh especailly if its your own, My clothes that I usually wear I look like the rag man its a combination of being economical (read tight) and not liking spending money on work clothes and the holes in my skin heal up where clothes dont. I have the joys of having to resit my welding tickets this week two over heads one Flux cored and one Low hydrogen stick and a solid wire Verticle Cheers Beaver

Hi Obert My father used to have a saying, Its your cow and you can do what you want with it. Now as far as repairing your anvil I repaired mine where some numpty had cut the side off with a gas torch by preheating it to about 100 deg centigrade and using a hard facing rod called hardcraft 400 which deposits a work hardening weld. I kept the runs small about 20mm or 3/4" and then heavily peened the weld deposit. It took me a about 6 hours to do the repair so as not to over heat the work face, My anvil is a wrought iron with forge welded High carbon face I did not seem to loose any hardenes or rebound and where the repair was done the hardcraft seems to be the same hardenes as the rest. Just remember if its difficult to handle cold its 10 times as difficult when red hot and I doubt the 2x10kg bottles will do it as the draw off rale wont be enough or the volume of fuel I would guess you will need at least 2x 45Kg bottles and big burners. I would also use kao wool or eqivelent as this is a very good insulator Cheers Beaver

The main welding fault when it comes to verticle welding with the stick welder and most other possitions as well as the operator has the arc length too long which makes the arc voltage higher. This makes the surface of the weld pool more fluid and difficult to control this also reduces the amps, so the end of the rod should generally be almost touching the work and with 3.2mm E7018 or low hydrogen rods about 110 amps with DC and about 115 with AC

Single phase is usually more expensive as there is more to a single phase motor than a three phase but with a bit of paitence and scrounging its suprising what turns up

It looks ok to me If you find its too slow in the future just replace the motor and pump with a higher pressure and flow unit, That frame looks like a good ridgid unit so the bones are good 2HP will probably be slow but it may generate a high tonnage Just remember to get speed and power req HP Cheers Beaver

I havent tried heat though it may work as described it may have to be made a bit of a shallower taper so the far away end contacts first and a good coating of graphite or antiseize and it maybe abit like pushing string up a straw, but i made one for my power hammer and it was quite wide (about 50mm or 2" and 150 or 6" long) on the platten of my linsher using eyechrometer and bearing blue and over length and cut to the correct length when finished I was suprised how quick it came up Cheers Beaver

Thats a good tip for using the citric acid thanks Up till now if I needed to pasivate SS I used a comercial paste and it is nitric and hydrofloric acid both of which are nasty nasty stuff. The hydrofloric acid if you get it on your skin can actually damage your bones and the fumes over a long period damage teeth to so Ive been told. Actually on the subject of Hydrofloric acid I have read somewhere that Viton rubber if over heated partly breaks down into hydrofloric acid and Viton is found in alot of things in automotive and engineering related items. Cheers Beaver

I would of thought a dead blow hammer would be less efficent than a solid normal hammer as when you hit a hot piece of steel the energy is usually absorbed with little rebound anyway, I would think it would be less efficent for forging as we all go to great lengths to have an anvil with a good rebound to aid in moving metal so i would think a dead blow hammer would be the same.I can apreciate thinking outside the box though Cheers Beaver PS I dont know why the joy police have such a problem with lead wheel weights anyway I have always managed to fight the temptation to lick them

Hi there That anvil is in good condiion and worth fixing, you could bolt the two pieces thogether and the break would key the whole thing locked together the center of the anvil probably wont be hard and use a coarse thread like UNC, whitworth or metric coarse. you could even put a small amount of weld prep after bolting and weld as well if you felt the need though welding is not always the answer Cheers Beaver