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About BeaverNZ

  • Rank
    Senior Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Invercargill New Zealand
  • Interests
    Dirt bikes, Engineering, Hot rods, Knife making, Steam powered items Mainly traction engines, fixing old machinery, Making anything out of metal

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  1. That should have good torsional strength I have made wood splitters with RHS and heavy plate welded to it that has the same cross section as that. An I beam does not have much torsional strength compared The RHS beam will be my method of construction when I build one for piercing hammer eyes etc
  2. BeaverNZ

    Press build

    Wow do they even make a 10Hp single ph the starting curent must be horrendous, A 10 hp on 400 volt 3Ph is 15 amps or there abouts
  3. I like my stickers better but i couldnt post them on here , I would get banned. But plain lanuage avoids misunderstandings. Nice fast press too with no tipping Good work
  4. I got all excited for a minute there Steam and a power hammer
  5. It looks like its been run through a complicator a few times
  6. He was talking about gear oil I cant remember what the aditive was and after some research I brought some Total Carter EP 220 which says it has extreme aditives but is suitable for Bronze worm gears so maybe it depends on the aditives added. The good old 90 diff oil does have a disintive smell but im no expert on the slippery stuff
  7. I did it because I found the clamping action inconveniant when using hand held tooling you can see the range of actions the hammer has as you move the treadle through its range in some of the very first vids on this thread I think, Its not a lock as such it just stops it from fully returning in its travel. I really need to get the belt guarding done before I get the next vist from The OSH safety man as he will have a stroke as he will perceive the hammer to be very dangerous just from its operation let alone unguarded belts etc
  8. Here are some pics of the last few modifications I have done to my hammer that greatly improve how it goes for how I use it. The first two are of the foot pedal stop that swings up so its as made and in the down position holds the pedal in a sweet spot so the hammers cycles like a clear space to avoid the clamping action between the tupp being all the way up when not being used and actually hammering. The next photo is an oil catching gutter to stop it slobbering oil onto the drive belts and every where else and drains into a container at the base I may put one around the base of the control spool as alot of oil drips off that as well. the last pic is my version of a tooling clamp thats been done plenty of times by others Cheers beaver
  9. What type of seal does it have on the shafts, that may make your decision for you. if it has laberinth type seals then its grease lip type seals then you can go for oil. A Master diesel mechanic mate of mine said that you have to be careful not to use gear oil with Extereme presure aditives in it as those aditives will react with the copper in the bronze/brass. maybe a semi fluid gear grease will cover all the bases
  10. I have just PM,d you the warning signs i have on my press. i wouldnt be able to put them on here as they are plain and blunt language Lol use or delete as you wish
  11. Looking good My only critique would be the ram sprear eye looks like its a close fit in the moving table and unless there is very little movement or tipping side ways you will either bend the ram spear or break the eye off the spear as the ram spear is not that big in dia. If i was making a press like this I would use a table with much longer guides and a spear bigger in dia, All you need to do with yours is give it a bit more clearance around the spear eye other than that its a well built press Cheers Beaver
  12. I have just had a rummage in my filing cabnet and it seems that the inslides are made for operations that need more guidence and they even offered hammers with over length guides for use when forging balls. I would imagine that using tappered faces attached to the tupp or anvil face would put a heavy tipping or turning action that may be controlled better by the slides. Maybe someone who knows more than me guessing might shed some light. oh and that hammer in the picture seems to have the much earlier model control valving which i think was a type of rotatary valve where one like mine has a large spool type. I have just added some pictures that I found from the patent office showing the different types of valve layouts, The documents should be able to be found as i have got pics of the patent numbers though the lense of my phone camera is not good as its all scratched and its all wrtten by lawers explaining how it works and you will need cafeen intraveinously to not fall asleep reading it Enjoy
  13. Hi yes I will undertake to send you the plans 550 lb is 250 ish Kg which is about 2 1/2 times bigger than mine so I would guess thats a 5 CWT massey. The cylinder type rams I am guessing would be a clear space hammer and apparently they hit harder for the same tupp weight than an in slides but i have no experiance with them Give me a few days to send the plans Cheers Beaver PS if you are looking at another hammer, My hammer complete with anvil and nothing else was 3800 Kg so keep that in mind for transport
  14. Hey there Peter hey no worries if you want to have a look or have a go with it, just PM me and we will go from there. When I saw Omakau in your title I thought Gee that looks like a NZ place name and it is Churr Beaver
  15. I have used Bees wax floor polish on my anvil and havent retouched it in 3-4 years and it gets lots of condensation on it during the winter when i have the heater going in the workshop and still no surface rust