BeaverNZ

TwistedCustoms yes I have copied one of those but didnt want to sayso dirrectly unless someone got upset Good spotting Cheers

I am having a go at making some folding pocket knifes, the blades are made from Sawmill bandsaw blade and railway track, I am going to try a coffe etch to see what happens

One way of getting an idea if the old regs are dammaged is to turn the cylinder on but just leave the torch turned off and if the pressure creeps up on the outlet side then they are faulty and can be dangerous if the fuel gas is acetylene as above 15 psi it can become unstable. When you turn the cylinder valves on do it slowly as if you just crack them open the high pressure gas can surge through and this slams the internal metering valve onto its seat and will damage it, with care regs last along time. You can usually get new gauges as well and fit them to the old regs, just make sure they are made for use in a gas set and a side note dont use copper pipe as hose joiner with acetylene as it can form copper acetylide or something like that that is shock sensitive if i remember correctly.

JPH From what you are saying and the fact it works now but the saftey and the gauge dont work I think you may have the control bank plumbed the wrong way round, the outlet and inlet swapped. have a look at the valve bank and on the outlet spigot there is often a letter T for Tank cast in it other than that take it to an expert Cheers Beaver

Actually thats right you can also often put an allen key or such down a hole in the solenoid spigot and push it in to manually trigger it as well

That looks so good I really like the stand as well

Thats facinating and looks really nicely done can you put up a bit of vid of the spinning part if its not a secret squirel process I have never done any thing like that before, Cheers Beaver

Hydraulics dont usually give off sparks unless it does turn out to be the solenoid My first thought was a problem with the coupling between the motor and pump and maybe a stripped or missing key/keyway or a tapered shaft and couplig being loose or damaged and starting to slip when the load comes on I have come across this in the past and its not obvious what the problem is Cheers Beaver

That looks really nice

No problem its easier to do it a bit too strong and not have it bend than remove damaged materail and then redo it and a rigid press is much safer to use as well, Enjoy cheers Beaver

Hello there Ross Yes thats much better though you could box in the whole bottom beam which would support the edges better or if you wanted to go completely over the top put stiffeners in and box it with some plug welds to tie it all together, this is what I did when I was making my press though its much bigger and intended for general workshop duties

Hi if if want to do it to a best practice standard then you need to put in stifeners or continue the sides of the H as this is the part of the h beam that carries most of the load and the center part is mostly just to hold the sides of the H apart, And as Jspool said you are making a lot more work and getting a lesser result while probably still strong enough its not the proper way of consrtucting the frame. Cheers Beaver

Hi Phil I was just reading your post here and saw that one of your hammers is only a couple of numbers from mine which is Y4348, its a 2CWT inslide whats the approx age of yours if you know. Mine was from the invercargill railway work shop Cheers Beaver

Big gun doctor the blades have stellite tips fitted but the actual blade band is the same material as what the last lot of blades were made from which apears to be 15n20 or such like. The saw doctor at this mill is one of my old motor bike racing mates

I was out at a sawmill today and did a bit dumpster diving and aquired probably over 100 kg or 220 lbs of large bandsaw blade I think I will give some of it away to a couple of other guys doing abit of forge work