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About MilwaukeeJon

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Milwaukee, Wisconsin
  • Interests
    Historic trades, especially woodworking and now blacksmithing.,
  1. Show me your Stake Plates!

    Just bought a vintage blowhorn stake and was wondering about setting it in a stump instead of a stake plate. If one does this, do you drive it into a hole snugly or put it into a larger hole where it stays kind of loose?
  2. JHCC is indeed a most impressive font of knowledge!
  3. Neat drilling discovery

    I agree!
  4. Dating Fisher Anvil

    That’s a beauty!
  5. Hardening a CR-V based hotcut hardy tool

    I don’t I? By the way, your videos are fantastic. Thanks for posting them.
  6. Hardening a CR-V based hotcut hardy tool

    “Am I one of them?”....he asks inquisitively
  7. Glenn (GSTongs) talks about the benefit of heat treating his 1045 hammers heads twice in water to achieve the desired hardness. I’ve done this several times now as well and it does seem to yield harder faces/peens. I’d be interested to hear what others here have to say about this approach. Thanks in advance.
  8. Big rounding hammer

    Nicely done indeed.
  9. Two newbie questions

    Got a very good dark straw color on this little hammer made for installing small brads and glazing points on cabinet doors with windows. Handle is 140 year old mahogany from floorboards taken from an old Milwaukee building.
  10. Two newbie questions

    The piece in question is a little 8 ounce 1045 head. I heated to non-magnetic and quenched the peens yesterday. Then tried drift tempering. Not good results. Today I did a new 10 minute normalizing cycle, then heated to non-magnetic (dark orange). After a good slow heating cycle I did a fast, vigorous quench in water. Definitely felt harder under a file this time. Tempering at 420 in the oven for two hours.
  11. My first forged hammers.....WIP

    Cedar is a relatively light wood and, as Thomas notes, rather brittle. It rives beautifully but is pretty easy to break across the grain. As an aside, in the 18th century, apple and pear were the most common woods used for handles on teapots and coffee pots. Will have to try on a hammer.
  12. Two newbie questions

    Thomas, I’m heating the heads to non-magnetic and then quenching the face/peen ends in either heated canola oil or water. Typically, I’ve tempered in the oven at 400 degrees for two hours, although today I tried the method of heating a drift and trying to draw out the color to a dark straw before quenching (today was 1045 in water....I put the whole head in the water once the color came out but maybe that was a mistake). As an aside, found this intersting video with a pretty neat quenching approach to a large sledge (they start with a massive billet!): Just so you know more, the hammer I’m currently finishing is a funny little experimental hammer made for a friend who is involved in a project making many windowed doors for a library room. He wants a curved small hammer (8 oz. head) to help drive in the nailed moldings or mullions that hold in the window panes. The face got to a nice light straw color using a heated drift but seems rather easy to dent. It is not handled yet so I can re-harden/temper. Any thoughts or advice would be most appreciated.
  13. Two newbie questions

    I’ve been doing the differential hardening/tempering. Just not yet getting terribly hard faces.