BIGGUNDOCTOR

That is a Lunette eye for a trailer hitch. $84 new on the big river site. It gets bolted into the channel on the trailer tongue, making it adjustable for height.

JHCC, there are anti-fog coatings for glass that are silicone based.

I would say the Rigid for these reasons. Bigger jaw opening comes in handy more often than not.. The bigger gap under the jaws comes in VERY handy. Ran into this problem at work recently where I couldn't clamp a part well due to the Wilton having a small gap. The jaws would not close on the part before the part's body was hitting under the jaws. How often do you replace jaws....not often. How often do you have to tighten replaceable jaws...a few times. If you need soft jaws it is quicker to make ones that drop over the standard jaws. And you can make them thicker because the jaw

Machinist files are a higher grade of steel than rasps. As Nicholson's materials guy put it "Wood and hooves are not as hard as steel" He said that treating the machinist files like W1 for heat treating would be a good path, as he would not give me the exact alloy they have used for the last 46 plus years he has been there.

No, I have plenty of anvils. I was just sharing it with the group. I like the Carborundum inventory tag myself. I have a 150# Vulcan with a school district tag still on it. My main anvil is a 260# Fisher that my Dad bought in Lincoln CA back around 1977.

Welcome from Southern NV. I was talking with a guy about a 52 Willys truck in Las Cruces.

Steve, glad to hear you are picking up some work. I have a few friends who work in the casinos, convention, or entertainment industries, and they are wondering when they will be working again. I lucked out, and got a job 2 years ago in the food industry. We are deemed essential, and never let up on production. One of our plants in Illinois has been hit hard with cases, and have lines down due to a labor shortage. Because if that we are picking up the slack at our plant in Nevada. Yesterday was my first day off in 111 days. Uncle Sam appreciates my extra hours.......

I was at a friend's house, and took some pictures of a sawyer that was given to him along with some other anvils from his friend's estate. I gave it a good looking over, but did not see any marks of any kind. If there are some, they may be under the angle iron holding it down. It is a fairly heavy one, I would say at least 200# to possibly 250# going by dimensions and steel being 490# per cubic foot.

All of the hose clamps I have used are stainless steel. Baling wire will work too as will a weld.

Welcome from southern NV

Yes, but you need the base wide enough to be stable and safe to use.

Rasps are generally not the same alloy as a machinist file since wood and hooves are not nearly as hard as steel is. I talked with the metals guy at Nicholson file, and although he would not give me the exact alloy they used, he said that treating a machinist file like W1 for heat treating was a good bet. He said their machinist files are a higher grade of steel than the wood files and rasps due to the above statement.

You can get an Anvil Brand Legend 120# anvil for $715, and JHM makes some good anvils. I have one of their 125# Journeyman anvils that I got from a retired farrier. It is kind of a cross between a farrier pattern, and a smithing pattern in my eyes. I loaned it to a friend who used it to make "Damascus" billets for knives, and he remarked that it was a good anvil to work on. They are cast ductile iron, and the one I have still looks new. As for size, everything I have done so far could have been done on the JHM easily, but my main anvil is a 260# Fisher. Why? A few reasons, but namely it

Missing the top plate, so pretty much just a hardy hole and a horn. This falls under, whatever someone offers above scrap rate.

The then new Vdara hotel in Las Vegas got the Death Ray knickname the first summer.