BIGGUNDOCTOR

Frosty, cotter pins have the eyelet at one end end, and you spread the legs that stick out the other side. Roll pins are rolled spring steel and straight. If that is for removing cotter pins, they are BIG cotter pins, but I can see how it would be used. We had a couple of tough ones to remove the other day.

For that budget he may be looking at a used table. I picked up a 5'x10' table at a shop auction. It was used for one govt job for about a year then stored for 8 more. It was $27,000 new, and I got it for $2,700. The brand is Koike Aronson.

Why can't they cut it? We used a small O/A CNC torch to cut out the ones at the college. Those were two inch plate, and it cut very clean. We could have easily gone thicker with good results on that unit.

671 jungle, the adjustable trailer hitch will make a spiffy bending jig. I have a couple myself.

As much as I love my 260# Fisher I never would pay that much for one. As to it never losing value, or going up.....never say never, just remember what happened in 2008. I also saw it happen with "collector cars" in the 80's. Some are worth half of what they sold for then. Francis Whitaker made his career on I believe a 175# anvil. You need a big anvil if you plan on doing big work. The only reason I have the ones I do is because I got them back when they were $1 a pound or less. The Fisher was $250 and the 306# Soderfors was $200. Could I make the same items I have made on my 125# JHM, yep, even the small 95# Hay Budden. I could outfit a whole smithy for far less than $1,500. It may not have a London pattern anvil, but it would have a very effective one. Seriously, look at some of the new anvils like Holland, JHM, Jymm Hoffman, Rhino, Nimba, etc.. Better steels, and some have a lifetime warranty.

If it was me I would bead blast or wire wheel the scale off, then do a passivation to get the non staining properties back. We sent items out to be passivated to customer specs. Some requested citric acid, others nitric acid.

leatherworker dot net is the iforgeiron of leather. Good group of folks over there and tons of experience that they like to share.

Looks like a Texas longhorn snail

I have a blacksmithing book from the 20's that shows a geologist hammer as a project, but that has a wooden handle. I also have my Dad's Estwing like the one above. What you want is a tough steel, not one that gets super hard and brittle. I would think that even steels like 5160 would work, and that is a common spring steel used in cars. Jackhammer bits was a good suggestion, as they can be picked up inexpensively, or even free, and they are used to ...... break rocks. As to making it one piece, get some modeling clay and work out the steps with that just like you would be forging it on the anvil. I'm thinking you may go with a long wide piece, then split the end like so "Y" then make that a "T". After that , draw the handle out, or trim, to the size you want. Use a shock absorbing handle material.

A 622# Hay Budden is up near the upper end of size, as few HB's were made that big making it a rare item. Your friend is very generous, as it could sell for several thousand dollars in today's market. I don't mean $2K-$3K, but well north of that. Possibly even 5 figures, especially if it is in pristine condition. That is a gift that you would never think of selling, especially if you want to keep him as a friend. You need to lay everything on the table before this deal is started. You both need to know what is expected from each other, have the knife set design completed, expected timeline, and what happens if you are not able to complete the deal to satisfaction. This is an opportunity for you to obtain a once in a lifetime anvil , but if done wrong can ruin a good relationship. Be very careful as to how you proceed, and have everything in writing.

Ibor can you show the process of making the spear socket (sleeve)? Those are very well done. All of the pieces are good examples of great forgings.

150# Fisher anvil, they shorthanded the weight markings on some, that is why it is marked 15. I have a 260# Fisher. They are great anvils, and quiet to work on due to the cast iron body. They have tool steel faces and horn top surface. The horn was left unhardened. NJAnvilman here on the forum runs the Fisher Norris museum

As JHCC mentioned, they were never intended for hot work. Only cold blades. May want to radius the edges some to help alleviate chipping.

The design should be based on your needs for a swage block. So first, determine what you want to make, and do those items require a swage block? if so, what features are needed to accomplish the task? Will you be forming round , square, or rectangular tenons? Hex or square bolt heads? Triangular cross sections? Spoons, bowls, or other dished items? I have the blocks my dad made back in the 90's and have yet to use one of them. They look cool, but I just have not needed one yet.

Welcome from NV. What kind of projects are you interested in making? What kind of race car?