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  • Birthday 07/01/1965

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    Moapa Valley, Nevada


  • Location
    Moapa Valley,Clark County NV
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, leather work, wood carving, photography, drawing, ceramics, cars, gunsmithing,etc
  • Occupation
    tool maker

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  1. To use pipe dope, thread the pipe in one turn, then put it on. That way none of it gets inside the piping.
  2. I prefer spiral point taps because you do not have to back them up to break the chips, just run them in. I did a lot of power tapping in the milling machine and lathe, so the spiral points were a huge plus. There are several types of taps EG; plug, taper, bottoming, pipe, spiral point, spiral flute, forming, etc...and they each have their place. As for what brands-keep it simple and just avoid any that are made in China, India, or the vicinity there of. USA, Japan, Europe are pretty good bets no matter the brand, but even then there are good, better, and best. Cleveland, Brubaker, Ghuring, Greenfield, are a safe bet. MSC, J&L, ENCO, or any other machine shop supplier will have a plethora of taps to choose from. For home use I would suggest either the bright , or black oxide finish. No need for the fancy coating$. Then get a good guality 2 jaw T-style tap handle. I prefer that style over the 4 jaw ones as I get a much better grip on the tap. The flat style of tap handle is also good, but buy quality as the cheap ones come loose while using, handles get loose, and they are just a pain to use. The ratcheting ones can come in handy, but in all of my years of doing machining and maintenance I have only run into a hand full of times that they were necessary.
  3. Anneal the rivets first if they are cracking while heading them.
  4. I have always preferred pipe dope over tape. It is more forgiving than tape.
  5. Oh, the other OZ
  6. I usually get a good week out of a pair of foamies. 80 pair for $15 would last me over a year. I like plugs because they don't make my ears all sweaty during the warmer months, they typically have a higher NRR, and unless your glasses have bayonet earpieces earmuffs can be very uncomfortable.
  7. The screwmachine shop I worked at had done some .17 cal solids out of copper for customers. They told me that they would send a slug for the customer to run through the bore, then the bullets were customs made for it. One guy reported back that he was getting around 6,000 fps. Paul worked on program in the Air Force that utilized a 20mm necked down to .60 cal. Made Island Naval Ship Yard had a 16" naval gun that they shot plastic pellets out of that were around 1/2" diameter IIRC, and they were punching steel plate with them. Modern rail guns have pretty much pushed solid propellants to the wayside for velocity projects.
  8. Check your files. When I get a PDF link I also get a blank page, but the file was downloaded.
  9. "Uncle Paul" had a gun and fishing tackle store where he also did gunsmithing. People were always fiddling with items on the counter, and a few "experts" would come in from time to time. He took a 50BMG case, slid a large magnum into it, them slid a .22-250? rifle case into the magnum. He then soldered it all together, and polished it so you could not see the joints. What he ended up with was a triple necked 50 case topped off with a 55 grain .22 bullet that he would just leave on the counter. The experts would tell their compares that when that cartridge came out it was the best of its day. Paul, would sit back and watch the show
  10. That is a John Brooks anvil. Good quality. Anvils are pretty inexpensive in the UK compared to what they go for in Alaska, so where are you located?
  11. I prefer the soft foam earplugs. The ones we have at work are the 3M orange ones from Home Depot, and they are very comfortable plus a high NRR, 33 I believe. Just read up on proper insertion, many do not put them in far enough.
  12. An artist friend recently sold a rose for $150. Do not under price your labor. Put them out there for what you should charge, and see how the market reacts.
  13. Have a shop with the proper benders do the table tops for you, and then you make the rest.
  14. If it has 30%,50%,70%,or 100% rebound, the metal will move the same under the hammer. Rebound is just a measure of how hard the face is. Kiss an edge with a file.
  15. I just Googled wood cutting boards and bacteria last year when I came across a similar situation. Lots of info out there.