BIGGUNDOCTOR

The ones I usually see are nickel plated copper. I would sell the whole panel to someone rather than gut it for a couple of buss bars. Not really a good use for beryllium alloys due to cost for one ($23+ a pound). Second beryllium alloys like we machined were heat treated afterwards to harden them, and keep the contact fingers springy. They make conductive springs, tools, knives, and other items that need its mechanical advantage over plain copper alloys. The Be content is a maximum of 2%. Easy to harden in an oven that can hit 600F-750F. It doesn't forge hot - hot short. Rather you solution anneal it, and work cold. It really is a beautiful alloy if you can take advantage of its properties. I forged some spikes out of C173 and they look just like gold when polished up - we did a chem polishing on them.

Steel stamps work best as marker tends to rub off. I found some inexpensive sledge hammer heads, and picked up a 1/2" capacity ROHM keyless drill chuck for $2 at a yard sale. They will be open again this weekend, and have a ton more tools. At another yard sale I got a 1.5 Ton chain come-along for $5 and some good sized chains tossed in with it for an additional $5. On the hand tool front I picked up some curiosities that turned out to be good finds. One is a Senco stapler that is used in upholstery work to affix the coil springs to the webbing. Paid a couple of bucks, and it is over $200 new. Another turned out to be a small hand operated nibbler, and the funky pliers that look new are used for crimping the bands on CV joint boots. The patent number is the same as the one Blue Point uses.

Das, remember to turn the old cats in, as some are worth a few hundred in scrap value. A friend had the cats stolen off their SUV. Anachronist58 - the 1960 300F is a gorgeous car. I have a 1960 Windsor 2dr hardtop that is a project. Has the swivel front buckets which are pretty cool. Thomas, glad to hear you got the deal going, and you are on the mend.

Losing the hardness is just part of the issue. The hardened faceplate is not that thick to begin with, so any removal of surface reduces that thickness-and lifespan. PW anvils have soft wrought iron bodies, so sway is common with that maker. My 138# PW has a divot in the face near the horn. If it hinders your work, make some money with it, sell it, and put the combined funds towards a brand new anvil. There are several makers out there at reasonable prices. Look on Anvil Brand's website for a selection of new styles. I have a 125# JHM Journeyman, and it is a ice anvil. I have also heard great reviews for Scott anvils. A 125# JHM runs around $750. Holland is a new manufacturer, and the owner is on here as a member. His anvils have been well received by those who have bought them. Also , tempering is done after hardening. As quenched, many steels are too brittle to use, and would chip if struck. Tempering draws out some of the hardness, and leaves it tougher and able to withstand more impact force.

Das, I picked up a decent OBDII reader from Harbor freight a few years ago. Normally $200 and marked down to $69.99. Money well spent, and has saved me more than that by using it. They are running a new brand now, but give them a look. There is a guy on YouTube that goes by Schrodinger's Box , and he delves into what these codes mean, and what can trigger them. It is more diagnostics and actually checking the components and not just a parts swapping channel. You learn things like how intake manifold issues can trigger an O2 sensor. With a decent code reader you can actually see what the sensor is reading as the car is operated. Mine does live data, graphing, and more.

Or if that is too much work, a pottery supplier. A community college near me tosses hundreds of pounds of mixed clay bodies left over from throwing sessions. So check with local schools, or teachers.

I use old speaker magnets, and you can usually get those for free , and in a wide variety of sizes.

Center links are tough grades of steel 4000 series alloys most of the time. When I put a 1,200# show steer under my 01 3500 it bent the center link. Unfortunately the body shop had already gotten rid of it before I got back to pick the truck up. So, make items that need toughness over hardness.

I'm glad to hear the good news.

Make a steel tube insert to reduce the inside diameter. The air gap will help keep the outer shell cool.

A large bath towel with my name embroidered on it from a neighbor. This time of year is usually a bit rough on me, so I am not a big fan of the holidays. Spent Christmas morning cruising the net, then in bed by 5:30pm (I work nights, so I usually start yawning around Noon).

You are in my neck of the woods now. I work in Henderson, but live outside of the valley. Not much for smithing gear here, and one guy seems to snap it up, and then tries to flip for high dollar. Most of his anvils have been listed for well over a year. I got my stuff back when it was reasonably priced, so I am in no hurt for gear. The only thing I would like to find would be a small anvil for a small vintage portable forge I have. I have been told it is a farrier's forge. I have a 95# HB that has a rough top, but if I can come up with a Fisher in the 50#-100# range I would like that even better. Just feel bad for those starting out, and getting hosed on price. That is why I recommend an improvised anvil. You can pick up 200# of steel for around free to $50 depending on where you get it. What type of items are you mainly interested in making and what do you have for steel?

Nice to see it being used, and not just stored away, or out in a garden.

Welcome from the desert outside of Fabulous Las Vegas Nevada.

Conrad, I don't know of any US Made anvil that used the hundredweight (not stone) system. Every one I have seen was in pounds.