BIGGUNDOCTOR

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About BIGGUNDOCTOR

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 07/01/1965

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Moapa Valley, Nevada

Converted

  • Location
    Moapa Valley,Clark County NV
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, leather work, wood carving, photography, drawing, ceramics, cars, gunsmithing,etc
  • Occupation
    tool maker

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  1. Where to get square/round stock

    If you have a forge, and an anvil, you can make a hot cut.
  2. I would also suggest that you keep the fork under 400F to maintain the factory heat treating. The manufacturers that got back with me said that they use 4XXX series steels like 4140 to make the tines. I would say leave it as a block, and make a stand that it can be rotated / tilted, etc so you can use all of the sides if need be. Make a portable hole, or use a vise to hold the bottom tools.
  3. What Did You do in the Shop Today?

    Das, that meat hook could be an interesting tool hanger.
  4. Where to get square/round stock

    If you are forging, stock can be cut with a hot cut. Bolt cutters work for smaller diameters - I have some that will do 1/2" easy enough. Check to see if you have a rebar supplier. A friend got some of the soft iron "wire" that is used to hold the big bundles together, and it was around 1/4" or 5/16" in diameter. They just cut it off and scrap it, so he got it for free.
  5. It followed me home

    I got one of the same wrenches at a garage sale a couple of weeks ago, and have been using it at work, last night in fact.
  6. It followed me home

    The black item with the dovetail is a tool holder for a lathe, not a magnetic base
  7. Testing pallet strapping

    All depends on what you are using it for. All pallet strapping is not the same, some is high carbon and that is better for knife billets. The lower carbon is fine for decorative items. I just found out that the folding bread baskets at work use AAR 33 strapping in the sides as support. That is high carbon strapping approved by the railroads. So I am now stripping the supports out of the busted baskets when I see them.
  8. I wouldn't say that Peter Wrights are of unparalleled quality just from the sheer number of ones I see with swayed tops, and faceplate depressions. I have one that is 138# and it has a divot in the faceplate from repeated use in that area suggesting that the tops are not that hard. I would put my Fisher above a PW. I also have a couple of Hay Buddens, a Vulcan, Sodefors (primo quality), and a new JHM which I would probably put ahead of a PW too. Solid cast steel anvils don't have a problem PW's can have - face delamination.
  9. Auction in Phillipsburg New Jersey today

    Drop the idea that a real anvil has to be a London pattern. When you do that you will find anvils in many places and configurations. Some inexpensive, some free.
  10. Ever See One Of These?

    Being steel it may be heat treatable
  11. Ever See One Of These?

    If you want it smooth again make friends with the guys at an automotive machine shop. The one my friend worked at had a flywheel grinder that was essentially a small Blanchard. Or if they are set up for shaving heads, they could deck it for you for probably less than a regular machine shop would charge. That plate has a lot of potential for various projects.
  12. Ever See One Of These?

    I never made mine when I had my shop, I just bought them like the picture I posted. They are pretty affordable, and it sped up the process of making a die set. Redsmith, look around some more, you may find the top piece too Was he a machinist, or tool and die maker?
  13. Gurkhas kukri

    It still is the prefered blade for the Gurkhas. You can find them with the British military Broad Arrow marking from time to time. I saw a spec sheet one time for the issued Kukris that were made for WWII. As to collectability. Many times once you polish it you devalue it, kind of like with firearms. People want to see the patina.
  14. Ever See One Of These?

    Looks like a base plate for a die set. The rounded ears would be bored out to accept the pins.
  15. How do you set up your tables at craft fairs?

    As a fair goer I would say that the U shape is good. If you have items that you need to store in the booth having the front closed off is best for you. If you have an area that those items can be moved to , and you have a EZUp or similar tent, having the front open allows customers to get out of the sun. Here the summers are so hot that items that are not shaded can get close to 200 degrees sitting on the table. You just want to make sure that you can keep an eye on the items for sale---some may walk off if they are obstructed from your view. Not having items tagged with prices is a pet peeve of mine.