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  • Birthday 07/01/1965

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    Moapa Valley, Nevada


  • Location
    Moapa Valley,Clark County NV
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, leather work, wood carving, photography, drawing, ceramics, cars, gunsmithing,etc
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    tool maker

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  1. Looks good! Now just leave it sitting around and let people "discover" it and ask , what the heck is that for?
  2. Ti oxide colors are pretty tough
  3. I quick buff shouldn't be an issue. I have talked with the safety guys at the mill that supplied our material, and they mentioned it is a problem when chronic exposure is experienced. Hours over years, not a couple of minutes on a buffer, and stressed that it is less than 2% in the alloy. But I do understand your position when you have students grabbing material. My only point is, read up on what the alloy is capable of, how to work it, and follow the recommendations for PPE when needed, then use it if it fits your needs. Yes, it can be a hazard, but so is the infrared exposure to our eyes from the fires we use, or the contents of the coal smoke we generate. This is not a particularly safe hobby in many ways, but with proper education of the hazards and how to prepare for them, it can be very rewarding. I'll ask what the other one was but one was named Rosheen? IIRC it was chromic acid, and it was heated before dipping the parts. One was a powder, and the other was a liquid. Now that was definitely a mandatory PPE area due to the fumes. We made electrical contacts, and sometimes we would have to chem off small burrs, or eat the dimensions down a couple of "tenths" to bring them into spec.
  4. Hold on to the BeCu. We were paying over $20 a pound for it, and it is a wonderful alloy with may desirable attributes. We chemically polished the parys we made, and it looks like polished gold when done. The Be won't exceed 2%, but just follow proper procedures and you will be good. Look up the MSDS for C173, C175 which are common alloys. The issue is when polishing or melting when fine dust, or fumes are created. We literally ran tons of it through the machines at work. It is hot short, so you cannot forge it hot. Solution anneal it, then work it. Depending on the part the heat treat was generally done at 625°F-750°F for 2-2.5 hrs. I used to toss some bar ends into the oven with the parts and used them as punches. Non sparking, and tough. That is why it is used for everything from hammers, to knives tool wise. I have quite a bit of it here for projects. Personally I plan on doing any sanding, or polishing wet, and by hand to help mitigate any dust floating around, and for a bright polish just run out up to where I used to work, and have them dip it which will literally just takes seconds to polish it. I believe the spikes I made took 30 seconds to polish.
  5. Best answer would be , what are / have they been selling for over the past couple of years? I know you guys have high prices on anvils, so I would suspect that would also apply to power hammers.
  6. Or a farrier/veterinarian fix to an ailment.. Depending on the hole pattern a single large caster may match up.
  7. Many forges have cast iron piping between the blower and the forge. Depending on the style, the majority of the value is in the blower, a forge can easily be fabbed up from whatever is laying around. Most rivet forges I see are around $100....when they are in good shape. If it is busted up, look at for just the blower value.
  8. Das, you should find some old iron casters off of a chair, and put them in to the holes for the calks. Then come up with a good story for it
  9. The jaw width is the size, 60 is probably the weight, the 1901 would be the year, and try a Google search of the stamping W&WH Co. That is above the date.
  10. I listened to Tom's songs on the Dr.Demento Show.
  11. If you don't want to do the boring business side you will need to hire someone who will do it for you. I have seen a couple of artisans go under because they wanted to do the fun side, but not the business side as well. Cash flow the operation, and grow as the money comes in and allows it. Going deep into debt right off the start will be a quick way to end the operation. Look into Dave Ramsey's book Entreleadership.
  12. I have a raven head, and basic body that I wanted to do, then lost for a loooooooooong time, then found when I was moving to NV in 05, and I am still on the look out for parts...........hahahahaha! The head is a bucket tooth, and the start of the body is a clutch fork out of a Chevy LUV that fit into the head perfectly. It is one of those when it happens it happens projects. I have a ton on my plate right now that is keeping me from all of my fun things I used to do.
  13. With that anvil it wouldn't be hard for me to work around the scars since the offhand edge for me is clean-horn left. How often are you forging something that would not fit in the clear spaces? I'm not working 4" square stock by hand....and I doubt anyone would on that anvil. My biggest issue with welding would be the possibility of making it too hard from fast cooling of the weld bead creating a brittleness issue. Hardness of the face just extends the life of the face, and we advocate using mild steel scrap all the time for forging so rebound isn't an issue. I think if a test was done of duplicate chunks of steel at different hardness you would find the metal would move the same with equal blows on each one. Rebound is just a measurement of hardness, not how well the anvil will move metal. Welding those cuts up will affect a much greater area than the cutting torch did originally. Softer tops will mushroom more over time, and brittle ones will chip more readily. As to using 70 series wire, or 7018. If you are going to go through the trouble of welding it, might was well do it with the best rod, and those are not the best for that application. A couple of rods for a small repair like these won't cost that much. Like I mentioned previously, I would say use it for a good year of forging, then consider any repairs. You may find those defects to be a plus--thin bending fork, veining, etc...
  14. Ahhh, OK. The chain that is solid width wise with just plates, no rollers. Grind the outside plate off, and punch the pins is how we dealt with that situation. I saw the head in the picture of then roses you did, and figured you had something in the works. I have been grabbing the old chains from work. I have a couple long lengths of #160-2 (double wide) that came off of the 200# dough mixer. They tossed the #80-3 (triple wide) that I had set aside to bring home. I recently got some SS woven conveyor belting (it looks like miniature chain link fencing) that may end up getting used on the Weber BBQ for items that are flaky, or just small.
  15. That chain break should work with all of the chain pictured. What are you calling gear chain....gears don't use chain.