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  • Birthday 07/01/1965

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    Moapa Valley, Nevada


  • Location
    Moapa Valley,Clark County NV
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, leather work, wood carving, photography, drawing, ceramics, cars, gunsmithing,etc
  • Occupation
    tool maker

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  1. You don't have to be off much to get a lot of vibrations. I have yet to see a machine shop that does not have a lathe..
  2. Looks like rust to me. I have pressure washed parts at work, and by the time I walked back to the shop they were rusting like that. That is also how the older firearms were "blued" they would expose them to a high humidity environment with a blueing solution to make them rust. As the rust started to form like what thou have, they would brush the orange off, and repeat the process until the proper deep black was achieved. Blueing is nothing more than controlled rusting. Metal is porous, and when you heat it up you can see the moisture coming out.
  3. How are you planning to balance them? I would be inclined to buy wheels that are machined and balanced. Do you know anyone with a metal lathe?
  4. If I was in that jam I would take it to someone to have it TIG, or spot welded. There are some low temp silver solders out there too. SS, especially thin stainless warps big time when heated/welded.
  5. When my Dad made the anodizing tanks for one of the air bases he was stationed at he just used blocks to make the large diameter coils. He clamped the blocks so that when he drove the tubing through them they got the curve going, then all he had to do was just keep driving more tubing into them to make the coil. Watch a video on how coil springs are made. Or some on making rings.... For this project you can also figure out some spacing, and how much to bend at each measurement to get the circle--like a sheet metal shop does in a press brake for some items. Once it is a circle, weld the ends, and smooth the kinks out. The closer the bends the smoother the radius.
  6. Well, it also makes a good networking opportunity..... A lot of people think plating is a one way process, and don't realize it can be done in reverse too.
  7. Hang out here and look into smithing. I agree with Frosty, I would love to see more women get into this craft. We have a few on here, and there are some well known ones in the greater smithing community.
  8. Start with learning hammer control. Square to round, round to square, tapering squares and rounds. Play around with scrolling styles. Try and make them smooth and devoid of hammer marks.. Do some different twists. Then combine all of these to make s-hooks, fire tools for the forge, etc.. You don't need tongs if you have vise-grips, or long enough stock. The u-bolts may make some good spring fullers depending on what size they are. Do you have a welder? Some u-bolts are medium carbon steels like 4140. Test some, then make punches ,and drifts out of them. Do not get too hung up on tools, in reality for a lot of projects you don't need much more than a hammer.
  9. Much easier to make thick stock thin, than thin stock thick......
  10. Take them to a chrome shop, and have them remove the plating.
  11. I was told they were from textile mills. I usually see them welded to rebar for stands at Christmas tree lots.
  12. Pulling up the manufacturers websites it was interesting to see how they took RR rail to bed rail. I live in a much smaller community now than I used to.... approximately 7,000 total within 5 communities spread out over 20+ miles. I am sure if I hung out more in the big city I could scrounge some up, but I literally have tons of metal already.
  13. Bed frames are made from old railroad track which is around a 1080 steel. Some manufacturers show the process on their sites. They heat the rail, split it into the three main sections of top, web, and base, then run it through rolling mills to get the shape they want. I used to get them for free back home, but where I live now they are sold all the time, and I have yet to see a free set.
  14. Fire pit? I'd call it a forge, get some air plumbed to it.
  15. Anvils do not have to be pristine to be usable. You don't even have to wire wheel the top, just the act of forging on it will shine it up in a hurry. All you need is a couple of square inches--the size of your hammer face to work on. If you do knock the rust off, post up some pictures of the top surface. Decking anything off of it will decrease the usability since they have thin top plates to begin with. NO GRINDING ON THE TOP. Smoothing the corners is OK. Get it mounted up solidly, and get working. If you are just beginning, work on basic hammer skills and accuracy. Round to square, square to round. Tapering rounds and squares. That kind of stuff. Make some basic s-hooks with the previous practice pieces. For bottom tools to drop in the hardy hole, make one with a thicker plate welded to a shank for edge work. Make it so that the width is as wide as the anvil face. A cutoff tool is also needed, and a good practice project. No need to heat treat.