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I Forge Iron


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About bluerooster

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    N GA

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  1. I've gotten many good useful tools for cheep from others "castaways". The most recent was an air compressor I rescued from the dumpster. It had quit working, found it had a faulty pressure switch. So, for $25, (cost of switch) I have a nice $300 air compressor.
  2. I like that one with the hook and notches, quick to adjust, and looks like it will work well. May well be the next thing I do in the shop.
  3. No shouldered cartridge!? Wow! So a 45-70 would be just fine then. I like muzzle loaders too. But Black powder is becoming scarce around here. I'm not too sure about using pyrodex never having used it before. As to the flip, I made one from a pecan fork, and a piece of heavy elastic donated/stolen by/from my mothers dress shop. I was mabe 11 or 12, and squirrels didn't stand a chance.
  4. Throw it back in the forge, and re weld. Keep going. One cold shut out of five layers, means that the other joints welded. So hit it again. My last billet, I worked at welding temp through 3 heats to insure it welded, before I started drawing. When I started drawing, the first hit was on the edge, If it seperated, it was immediately brought back to welding heat, and welded again. But I'm a beginner, and may be doing it wrong.
  5. Mabe in about 20 or 30 years I'll be able to make a blade that's half as nice. Most excellent work.
  6. After seeing the blades posted here I'm embarrassed to show mine. But I would like some input, so here goes: The pattern is evident, being 1095 and 10(low carbon =/<30) But The "Ol Lady" sez it just looks dirty. I agree. Mabe more layers? (only 12 here). Other than that I'm happy that it's smooth, and no flaking, of layers. (I assume good weld) I would like to find some known 23xx to bring better contrast.
  7. Got the blade profiled, hardened, tempered, and now is in a bath of coffee. We shall see if it will show a discernible pattern. Probably not much as the two steels are 1095 and 1035 (or less) but no nickle.
  8. I'm a framing carpenter by trade. Everyone on the crew cuts lumber to within 1/32. When we get on to exterior trim we go to 1/64. We are also high paid, and way busy. I beat hot steel at the forge for fun, and do my best to hold to as close tolerance as I can. Prior to framing, I did body work for about 25 years, and hammered cold steel to exceedingly close tolerance.
  9. Yes, as a company with one employee (me) I have to have workers comp. and general liability. Or I don't get to work. But, as a result of having it, I can get the better jobs, where they don't mind paying my rates.
  10. All the suppliers within reasonable driving distance only carry mild steel. Nothing hardenable by usual means. There is one place that also carries 4130 but it's tubing for race car frames, and they price it like platinum.
  11. Looks like they'll work better than mine. Thomas, I can't explain it. Steve, Thanx, It may have a chance to have a pattern of some sort after all. 1095 and 1035. I wanted to work on it today, but wind would not cooperate. I can handle cold, and I can handle wind, but add the two together and no.
  12. Spent a few hours playing with forge welding. Decided to make up a billet of HC/LC just because. It went well. Now to practice drawing, folding, and welding. I know there will be no discernable pattern as both are 10xx steels, but I figure good practice anyway. So far I have a 6 layer billet. I guess I'll stop at 24 to 48 layers, and draw out a blade for a kitchen knife.
  13. I've never heard of a kerbal, But any "Whovian" knows what a Dalek is.
  14. I saw an episode where they were on a farm, had to use coal forge, and what could be salvaged from farm implements. And another where they had to use coal forge, and a large ball bearing. Both shows, were all hand hammer, no "big blu".
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