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Found 45 results

  1. Hey all, I’ve built a gas cylinder foundry furnace and a burner. It works great for melting Aluminum, but I want to melt copper. I ran it for like an hour and a half. The copper got bright orange and shimmery and very soft, but didn’t quite melt. I feel like I was very close to melting temp and just need a few (hundred) more degrees. I’ve adjusted the color in my photo to more accurately show the color (though it was glowing brighter). What can I do to eek some more heat from my burner? I ran it up to 20 psi. My burner is using a .023 mig tip. The burner is 3/4 pipe. Should I use a mig tip with a bigger hole? A wider diameter pipe? Higher psi? Should I add a blower to blow air down the pipe? Will any of those things help? Anything else I should consider?
  2. I am having a very confusing issue. I have built my own forge and burners. I have 0.35 tips and a 0 - 40 psi regulator. My issue is that for some reason I can't get that jet like burn. It doesn't have that jet like sound or pressure. I am at my witts end and I don't know what else to do?
  3. Hello all, First post here to show some results of experimenting with the slip casting of aluminiumoxide (alumina). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Slipcasting Got interested to make shapes with refractory oxides by the posts of MonkeyForge and Mellin although they were using zirconia and veegum/bentone and were forming the mass by hand. Zirconia is a little too expensive to mess around with so i went with alumina. Using a combination of digitalfire.com, wikipedia, google patents, google scholar I found a lot of info which I all read. But a lot of it was above what was achievable at home. And a lot of it is about achieving the "perfect" results. I just want a useable result... So... what did I do. I already had some alumina-bentone clay (97%/3%) because at first my idea was to make shapes by hand but I found that really difficult. So I made a batch of slip from this clay by adding lots of water and mixing it with a blender. Aiming for a consistency of heavy cream as was mentioned on DigitalFire. This I poured into a simple plaster of paris mold made out of a plastic drink cup. It worked but was incredibly slow in forming the walls. The plaster was sucking in the slip very fast at first but after a millimeter or so it slowed almost to a stop. Dried my plaster mold in the oven and tried again, same result. Not great, not terrible. Remembering what I read somewhere that bentonite has a "problem" with releasing water. The bentone in my slip was creating a layer and allowing almost zero water through. Created a new batch with 99% alumina and water. Poured into my plaster mold and behold incredible fast wall forming. Now almost too fast to keep the mold full. It dries really fast in the mold and releases itself from the mold walls within a couple hours. Then let it air dry for a couple days. With this succesfull "recipe" I made a larger batch of alumina slip, specific gravity was around 2.40 and the bucket was really heavy. But the slip was still really fluid. It will settle if you leave it sitting for a while so you have to mix it good before use. Also made a mold for a crucible and a burner head. These can be seen in the pictures I added. The crucible was some random cup I found somewhere and the burner head was 3D printed. Also 3D printed a hole pattern as a guide to drill out the holes in the burner head when it was dry enough to handle. The crucible I have not fired yet. The two burner heads are already fired and 1 of them sintered well because it has a nice ring to it when you hit it with a metal item. The other one is strong but has a somewhat empty sound when you hit it. I didn't really had a procedure to fire them so maybe that's the problem. I fired slowly for 3 hours to about 1000 degrees celsius and then went full power for about 1,5 hours, no idea what temperature, then slowly back to 800 degrees in about 3 hours, then i turned off the burner and closed up with ceremic blanket to cool down during the night. Measured temperatures were at the exhaust of my furnace (my thermocouple wire will melt inside). I hope the inside reached at least 1200 degrees celsius. (Using natural gas and a forced air burner) The same method can be used to cast items with zirconia, magnesia, etc. But you will need a higher temperature to sinter it well. Hope you guys can use some of the info and use it to create more cool stuff.
  4. 671jungle

    1/4" burner

    1/4" idea. Jet: mig tip fitted with .015 capillary tube and soldered into 1/4" elbow. Air chamber: coupling with 3 slots cut into every other side. Interior sanded smooth. Barrel: 1/4" pipe beveled on chamber side for fam flow. (the galvy will be soaked) Nozzle: ??? Currently have this stainless fitting I will try to tailer it to. Just a little experiment for a high power hand torch. Per Mikey's challenge, though not quite the same design.
  5. Hi i just got a devil forge the one with two burners and one door. I lit it for the first time and i had blue flames coming out of it i adjusted everything to try and stop the problem but i cant figure it out can anyone help me
  6. 20181229_093557.mp4 20181229_093659.mp4 I had my initial gas pressure too high and now I have a needle valve at the front of the line to reduce the pressure and its probably opened 1/3 -1/2 of the way open. My pressure guage should be here Monday. Then I have a second one at the burner to control the flame at the lowest burn without back burn its barely opened and then a full on burn its probably halfway open. I know I saw somewhere that when your forge gets to temperature the flame disappears which is what mine is doing but I also noticed a greenish flame coming out of the front when I turn it down to work on a hot piece ( I only see the green if the forge is hot not when I first light it on idle like in the bottom video). The burner is a Reil design with a .025 mig tip orifice. Flare is a k26 soft brick filed in a cone shape so the mixing pipe sits snug in the top about an inch. I'm going to be making a new burner and forge soon but my main question and reason for posting this is to find out if this is the right color of blue. I know really hot burn its supposed to be light blue with a kinda white center but that's almost too hot of a burn. And just the dark blue is a little too cold. I am trying to adjust to make this as fuel efficient as possible. Hence why I'm building a new forge that will have 2" kaowool with 2" HTC 100 on top of it hopefully that way it has more than enough insulation. 20181229_093659.mp4 20181229_093659.mp4 20181229_093515.mp4 20181229_093515.mp4 20181229_093622.mp4
  7. Greetings! I wanted to see if the experts on this forum might catch any red flags that may be causing combustion issues with my forge. I shot a quick video demonstrating the issue. The problem starts 3 mins, 10 secs in: I built this based mostly on the David Hammer Super C Forge and burner design (minus the side access slot). It has been running stable for months, but now after running for around 30 mins, the point of combustion shifts from the interior of the forge, to the end of the flair (about 1 inch inside the refractory). I get less time if I run it hotter. The burner port leaves about 1/4 inch of space around burner flair. Before shooting the video, I has run for a little over 30 mins. I let it cool for about 15 mins to capture the transition. Don't know if I need to tune the burner, if there are issues with my refractory, or something else that I might not have considered. I've been doing this for around 6-7 months so my knowlege is pretty limited. Any thoughts on where I might be going wrong here? Thank you for any input you might have.
  8. Well here it is. First off I've never built a forge or anything like it before lol so be gentle! And a big thanks to Wayne coe for all the supplies and super fast shipping! I Ran out of propane shortly after this video so I've only had it running for a few mins. I dislike the air valve I used because it's hard to turn it but it will do for now. It's not 100% finished plan on adding some things ie shelf ect. Seems like it was burning well but in intrested in what the hoard has to say lol. For some reason most of my pics wont upload.
  9. I am going to go see about building a forced air burner, Using the design off of this burner I have here. I would like to know if anyone has done one like this before and the problems they ran into? If i build it exactly as shown will is work well and safely? Also for the flared end i was going to take the 1 1/4 and forge it into the flared fitting described here with a 1 1/2 opening. Thanks and merry smithing, Matthew
  10. Hello all, Wanted to share my first build with you guys so I can hopefully get it done in a good way the first time. I am still working on getting supplies together. I don't have a bunch of fab equipment, so I am trying to re-purpose this old stainless sink. I am looking to create a really basic forge so I can get to heating steel relatively quickly, both in the sense of a easy build, but also a build that is well insulated. One thing I am still thinking out is the angle of the burner. I know a 10/15 degree offset is recommended. I am going to try the Zoeller sidearm burner, which I know is rated for ~350cu/in, so I will work on get the insulation sized correctly. Any tips or critiques, please send them. Thanks, Mic
  11. I am new at this and wanted to add forging capabilities to my metal shop so I decided to start small and work my way up from a soup can forge. Any and all recommendations are appreciated and if I am doing something wrong I always like to know. The soup can is lined with some kao-wool I got from a local pottery store, they did not stock any refractories, rigidizers, or products like plistix or itc 100 however the gentleman kindly advised me of a mix of fireclay with sodium silicate and water. My main concern was stopping the degradation of the kaowool which is evidently a heath problem. I don't have a lot of pictures of the building of the first forge because it was actually really quick and I also think I combined multiple plans. I used a short fatter soup can and drilled 2 holes in the side for mounting to a piece of stock that I had bent a 90 degree bend into and a slightly larger hole than the half inch nipple I use to hold the burner at about 2 o'clock when looking into the can. I lined the inside with 1 inch of kaowool on the bottom and sides using the seam of the side to allow the burner to come into the chamber tucked into the cloth. After I had the can bolted to the stand and the liner in place I mixed the clay, sodium silicate and water to a chocolate milk consistency and poured onto the fabric in a very thin layer which was aided by the thin viscosity of the mix. I took my mappro torch and with the lightest flame setting and dried the surface of the clay then put the torch in the burner port and heated it up to essentially what you hopefully see in my picture. To avoid flames coming out the mouth of the can I have to run the torch on its pretty much lowest setting but It still will get a nail glowing hot in a minute or less. My conclusion from this little can forge is I love working with it but I wanted to be able to work larger stock. So I got working on another project the box forge I added some extra features I thought I would like but I didn't know how to account for the difference in volumes of chambers. I made the case out of 20 and 18 gauge sheet, made a door, handmade the crude hinges and made a base with a white firebrick which I later changed to the lighter style. I have problems with losing too much heat and am pretty sure I would need to upgrade to a real burner setup. Any advice on next steps would be greatly appreciated P.s. that hunk of ash will possibly be my anvil stand
  12. Note; this is being going to be used for a gasoline burner of my own hybrid design, reminiscent of the riel linear burner, and a coleman stove. (I've posted in the alternative gas-oil/gasoline forum on here about the details of that build.) The reason I'm attempting to build a ceramic burner nozzle is that the original burner nozzle from my gasoline burner oxidized away quite quickly in my foundry/forge, probably this was accelerated by the slightly oxidizing conditions it was originally being run at, and the burner design caused flame in the nozzle, this excessive heat destroyed the cheap exhaust coupling I used for the nozzle within the last 3 months-probably a total of 10hours of run time. So after some attempts at making the forge work with an integrated nozzle, and the coils built into the refractory, (didnt warm up fast enough for this burner design), I decided to try and make a ceramic nozzle Process I had some calcined alumina, zirconium silicate, and bentonite left over from rebuilding my foundry. Chosen composition was 97% wt calcined alumina, and 3% bentonite, final actual 96.9% alumina, 3.1% bentonite.-I wanted to minimize shrinking during firing, and drying because I only had a few hours to make it. The powders were weighed out, and mixed dry, and then 25% wt water was added, this was still too dry for hand forming, so I added water until the clay was just on the sticky side of plastic. The clay was squished, and folded until the even consistency and absolutely no difference in moisture or visual appearance was noticeable. The clay was shaped into a ball, and formed into a nozzle shape on the end of a new burner pipe (8x3/4 pipe nipple), placed onto a heating vent under cover of a terracotta bowl, and dried, then dried in oven up to 400f (200c) approx 1 hour. After this drying it was very fragile, but I threaded it onto the burner pipe to attempt to make threads on the nozzle. Placed back into the oven, and brought to 400f, then transferred into orange hot foundry, with a steel cup covering it to prevent flame hot spots. after 10 mins the burner was put to maximum, and it was heated for 30minutes, during which that was the hottest my foundry has ever gotten. It was cooled until orange/red, and then removed and placed onto the lid to cool. The nozzle has a ring to it, and only one small surface crack, shrinkage approx 2-3%, it will need to be ground out slightly to fit the burner pipe Next weekend I will test it in the foundry. Pictures Foundry minus the lid, with the old burner installed heating up. Full blast, the old burner was not functioning perfect due to its state, however it was needed to fire the new nozzle. The view through the burner shows how hot the forge is.The lid along with some extra stuff I put to maximize the heat. Believe it or not this picture was taken in the middle of the day, you can imagine the colour is extremely distorted, this was during the hottest part of the sintering. The nozzle, still very hot, cooling off on the lid of the forge. Complete nozzle, due to the shrinkage didn't thread all the way onto the pipe. Testing next week :), any suggestions or comments welcome.
  13. I found this youtube video on making a simple burner for a gas forge. I have made a burner to melt aluminum in a foundry before. With most burners (and the one I made) I find that they cost a lot to make or require a lot of up-keep. This one seems almost too simple. What do y'all think? I'm not looking for it to last my whole life but to just get started in gas forges. https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=5&v=67rxU02fv6o (P.S. I would make quite a few modifications like an air flow regulator and such.) Your boi, Jacob
  14. Hi all.. I just made a two inch forced air burner.... I followed the plans of hans peot except that my gas comes into the tube slightly different ...... I have a 1/16 inch orifice.. .. all the metal tubes are two inch... I have a hair dry as a temporary air supply that blows warm air... I have welded rings that are three inch long at end of burner tube that are I had stainless steel wool at the top of the tube to aid the air gas mix.... the chamber is and I'm South African so it' in millimetres... . 300mm x 100mm x 70mm which I think is 210 cubic centimetres..... I run it at between 1psi and 5 psi with the blower adusting airflow according to gas pressure..... I think possibly the stainless wool might've melted a bit and blocked a bit of the flame holder as it was roaring and then I heard a sound and then it sounded different and when I took the burner out it looked like bits had been welded to the end... I shall attach pics and videos .... let me know if you need more info.... oh and the back door was closed with a cm gap a long the top and front door has a mouse hole..... thanks guys
  15. Nic

    Forced air burner

    Hello.... I have a few questions... I'm in the process of making a forced air burner.... my question is my gas comes in from the side at 90deg to the air pipe... I feel that it would be better if it came in from the same direction as the air does... I've attached a pic of my 1st attempt and then a pic of my next sort of plan..... someone said to me for forced air I should use 1 1/2 in piping for burner tube and air intake.... can anyone give some input... thanks Nic
  16. I recently picked up a new forge from a local knife maker to replace my old one. It's a peice of 10" pipe 24" long mounted vertically on 1" plate. He was using it as a salt pot to heat treat in before he built a new one and gave me this along with a Bag of 1" koa-wool insulation to reline it with. For a burner he was using a 2x1 swedge with tubing going through with a hole drilled in the tube. I was wondering whether that burner would have the right atmosphere for regular forging? He had no way to adjust it at all that I could see. Should I make a burner like that or would I be better off using my 3/4 frosty t burner? Thanks in advance.
  17. Hi all iv built a vanturi burner and it has a problem I think. it lights fine and runs fine (no sputtering) but when I open the air vent(Just a thumb screw to open and close the top)I can't open it any more then 3mm or it will blow out when I lowered the pressure to 2-3psi I could open it slightly more but then same results. Can anyone help me? I can't find anyone with this problem maybe it isn't a problem just a very small window of adjustability thanks for the help in advance. (Iv added a drawing of what all the dimensions are.) Sorry forgot to add my gas orifice was 0.6mm then I swapped it for 0.8mm that worked better. do I just need to increase that again to decrease the pressure difference and slow the air intake or am i over thinking it.
  18. So I'm in the market to buy my first forge or make it from scratch. I own very few tools in general and I'm not the best handyman in the world either. I was originally going to buy a forge around 300-500 bucks. Everyone on the Reddit forum was saying to basically build my own and save some money. I'm looking to do pretty much a bit of everything eventually. I was thinking of going Propane because I thought it would be cheaper. It'll also be cleaner which is nice seeing as how I'll be in the driveway most of the time haha. Basically, I didn't know a good propane forge or burner to buy. Is there any good brands of burners and forges out there I should look at? I know of the following places that I was looking at. Centuar Forge Alec Steele has some burners for sale Hybridburner Devil Forge
  19. Hey there I need some help with hooking up the burners to my forge. Im new to smithing and this is my first attempt at a forge. My forge has 3 trex burners and my goal is to be able to use them independantly or all together. I have researched how the propane distribution block should look and came up with this. Pics attached. My issue is to go from the distrobution block to the burners i need to use flexible copper tubing and to connect it im using compression fittings, the issue is the compression fittings keep leaking ive tried a hundred times and i just cant get them not to leak propane a bit. Is there a special way to do this? Any help would be great. Thanks
  20. Forgehermet

    T burner

    I have recently follow frosty's T burner plans and have one problem,my burner will be running good with dark and light blue flames it will suddenly go out and I would have to re light it. any advice on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance
  21. Forgehermet

    My forge

    I am putting my gas forge together and I only have ribbon burners. They are three connected together each being about 17 inches long. My forge is a 8x8x28 inch square tube that I plan to insulate with refractory cement and one inch of kaowool.how thick should my cement be and how should I arrange my ribbon burners to prevent melting and get maximum heat? I am fin with using less than three burners if I should.
  22. Hi I have been using a coal forge for the last while, but coal is not easy to find in my area(at an affordable price) so I'm attempting gas. I did some research and felt good about it and set out building the burner. I failed. Find my efforts attached. Here's my problem. Instead of the short "blowtorch" type flames i get metre plus dull red-orange flames. Any obvious things I'm doing wrong? Or am I not even close. Please help! Thanks!
  23. I was recently looking through instructable and stumbled upon this image and was wondering if it would be a suitable burner for a long and low heat treat/bladesmithing forge? Also here is the link to the instructable. http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-BBQ-Burner/?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email im mostly wondering if it would be able to get up to temperature or what modifications would be needed. I already own a small home built forge so this is strictly outta curiosity. thanks in advance
  24. Hi I have just lit up my small home built gas forge for the first time. It is firebrick lined with refractory cement lined with Metrikote. There are some flaking issues with the latter but that is not my question here. I bought the burner online from what claims to be a blacksmithing school here in the USA who make them to help support their business so I figured it was a safe option. I had lit the burner for a few minutes and it was 'on' and there was blue flame visible through the 'ports' you can see high up near the gas connection and a nice roar but the flame coming out of the business end was almost invisible and did not seem to be generating huge heat. I tried heating some very thin stock and it got hot but nowhere near orange heat. Suddenly, and for no obvious reason I could see, the flame 'switched on' and became a roaring pale blue jet projecting down inside the forge chamber. This brought my stock to red heat in a matter of seconds. I then put in a thicker piece (about 1/2 inch square, some sort of small pry bar) and that was at red heat in very short order. I would love to know what changed and how I can get that flame back, I turned the gas off and then lit it again and I was back at the low heat flame, playing with the propane regulator did not seem to make any difference. The burner itself has no adjustments I can see apart from how far into the chamber the end projects (at the moment the end is probably 3/4 inch inside the firebrick - should it maybe be nearer the inside surface of the forge?) Looking forward to any suggestions, I want that flame back Pictures of the burner and the forge in use attached Thanks Dave
  25. Hey Guys. The Edmonton Blacksmith Shop is looking at selling their forge burners separately. They have put them up on their website to gauge interest to see if they will choose to make them available for purchase. I bought their forge and though I haven't used it much (and know even less about forging) it seems quite capable. It would be nice to have a Canadian option for forge burners for those of us north of the border who would like to make their own forge but don't wish to fiddle with burners. I would encourage anyone interested to check them out so they might make them available. This is not intended as an advertisement and I have no affiliation with this shop. I know I looked a while myself for a burner option in Canada before I just bought my forge. http://edmontonblacksmithshop.com/blacksmithing-tools-and-equipment