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  1. Hi all, this is my first post on here and I’ve come to quite the conundrum. This is my first time trying to build a forge or any burners. I’m not any sort of propane expert and I’m trying to build a forge burner. I got my design off of youtube and have tried two different ones. Neither of them have worked even though I built them almost identical to the video. I see so many that look exactly like mine and I have tried many different things with airflow, hole size, nipple length, adjusting the psi… nothing works and I was hoping to possibly get some answers on here. Any sort of help would be greatly appreciated and thanks so much if anyone reads this! Side note: sorry if anything about this post is wrong… it’s my first time. Pics attached
  2. Hi i just got a devil forge the one with two burners and one door. I lit it for the first time and i had blue flames coming out of it i adjusted everything to try and stop the problem but i cant figure it out can anyone help me
  3. Hello everyone my name is Eric and I am posting today in search of help! The past two weeks Ive been having issues with my burners I have built. The first one was just a general easy burner build I found online. It didnt have a name to it and was cheaply built. The one I just built and am having issues with now is a Venturi/blower hybrid burner. I found the design on a different blacksmith forum website. The problem I am having is my burner is not producing a correct torch flame. At 10 psi i cannot open the ball valve 100% without the flame being own out. And when it stays lit the flame is very rich and it sputters. Can someone please help me? I live in colorado at about 5280 ft above elevation, I am adding photos below. I have the middle part of the T connection blocked off because when its open there is so much air it blows the flame out. I then drilled holes infront if the mig tip for more air? I don't know what i am doing. Im really new to this and am really discouraged Thank you!
  4. Hello everyone, thanks for letting me join this forum. I realize many of these questions may have been asked before so if you are tired of answering them, please just direct me to the appropriate posts for the answers. My son and I have just jumped into this activity and have attempted to build our first propane Venturi burner. The dimensions are a 3/8” brass shutoff leading into 1/4” black pipe feeding a .045 welding tip (we also tried a .025 tip). This nozzle sets 1.5” into a 1.5” x 1” intake reducer which connects to an 8” x 1” black pipe nipple and finally to a 1” x 1.25” reducer. This last reducer sits on a matching hole in the soft firebrick top of the forge. All of this is fed propane from a 20lb propane tank with a 0-60 PSI regulator. I will add some pictures of the build to help clarify the above description. I will also add a video of the flame we are producing. It does have something of a blue cone but it seems ragged with orange tails. We are able to get a piece of 5/8” x 4” coil spring steel to resemble a nice orange Cheeto but can’t seem to get it any hotter. Finally the questions; Why do we need 30 PSI to achieve a blue cone? How do we increase the heat output? Is it normal for the output reducer to get as orange hot as the target steel? Why does the flame keep wanting to blow back up into the black pipe nipple? Could part of the problem be that our forge is just loosely piled hard firebricks which probably has considerable air infiltration? If we can get the flame production and high PSI requirements figured out then we will build a properly sealed firebrick forge if you think that is adequate to use. Thanks in advance. IMG_0250.MOV
  5. So I've built a propane tank forge and put in two frosty T burners vertically. During the first tests I'm having issues with the burners burning efficiently and intermidently. Is this because of them just sucking in the heat and fire coming from the exit and entrance? Is it possible for me to put in a 90° and another pipe to make them an L shape to get the tops away from the heat or did I just mess up totally by putting them veritcal
  6. Hi everyone, Newbie here in Portland, Oregon. I just finished building my first forge and need some advice with tuning my Frosty T-burner. Here are the specs: Forge: Wayne Coe-style Freon forge, built exact to his instructions -- 1-2" Inswool, Kast-O-Lite refractory, Plistix Burner: Frosty T-burner, 3/4" nipple, 0.035 Tweco MIG contact tip, no flare (tried to build one into the refractory, but my guess is it's probably a little too wide) Other stuff: 1/4-turn ball valve at the burner, 3/8" propane hose, 0-30psi regulator The pics are taken with about 5psi of pressure. The burner nipple is situated so that it's barely inside the tank (and prob. 1.5" deep to the refractory). I was hoping I could get some advice about the flame -- shape, color, etc.. Please forgive my ignorance. I'm assuming I need to trim back the MIG tip a little -- it seems like that's the first recommendation from most of the posts I've read -- but I wanted to check with the gurus first before I went and did that. Forgive me if the pictures aren't helpful, or if others would be better. I'm happy to retake if necessary. Many thanks in advance, Erik
  7. Hi all.. I just made a two inch forced air burner.... I followed the plans of hans peot except that my gas comes into the tube slightly different ...... I have a 1/16 inch orifice.. .. all the metal tubes are two inch... I have a hair dry as a temporary air supply that blows warm air... I have welded rings that are three inch long at end of burner tube that are I had stainless steel wool at the top of the tube to aid the air gas mix.... the chamber is and I'm South African so it' in millimetres... . 300mm x 100mm x 70mm which I think is 210 cubic centimetres..... I run it at between 1psi and 5 psi with the blower adusting airflow according to gas pressure..... I think possibly the stainless wool might've melted a bit and blocked a bit of the flame holder as it was roaring and then I heard a sound and then it sounded different and when I took the burner out it looked like bits had been welded to the end... I shall attach pics and videos .... let me know if you need more info.... oh and the back door was closed with a cm gap a long the top and front door has a mouse hole..... thanks guys
  8. Dari

    Gas furnace

    We made a horn from the half of a 50 l balloon and a 50 cm ceramic fiber lining. What other measures can be taken to improve the characteristics of the horn? Which burner design do you prefer? I also want to learn forging welding, but I don't know how to achieve high temperature and energy.to avoid overspending gas?
  9. Need some help troubleshooting. The burner I made is basically a carbon copy of this one here. I used a .035” welding tip, and from the brass I connected a 10ft propane hose rated for home use I believe, and from there I have a hose to connect to my 5 gallon propane tank. Is this a pressure issue? Is my regulator not giving enough propane or is this an air intake issue? It sputters and doesn’t roar like the others I’ve seen. IMG_0604.MOV IMG_0605.MOV
  10. Hello everyone, Though I still consider myself a novice when it concerns blacksmithing and bladesmithing, I have dabbled quite a bit in the craft. I have built and used two forges and forge burners in the past two years. Each getting increasingly more ambitious as my intrigue increased. However, this year I decided to take the plunge and purchase a professionally built, double burner propane forge. I really like the design of the forge, but it is the burners that are causing me an issue. I have meticulously tested my set up and retried my forge with one of my older burners. It worked decently, but the double burner failed to burn outside the pipe or produce a torrential flame. It is currently burning inside of the pipe and heating it up. I asked the seller for help and he sent me a new one. However, the new burner failed just like the previous one. Is their something that I'm missing or doing wrong? In my search, I have discovered that the propane outlets, holes drilled in to the pipe, were either off center or had a slight tilt. Could this be causing the issue? Using an air compressor, I didn't feel any obstructions to the air flow. Is their a way to fix this issue? If so please help.
  11. I'm working on a small mod to Frosty's T-Burner. I had purchased a 3/4" T-Burner, but the nozzle was visibly out of alignment. Also, it seemed that the Venturi effect wasn't properly tuned (depth of mig tip), since the flame would blow itself out unless the air inlets were nearly entirely choked off, though maybe this was the nozzle alignment too. To solve these problems I'm thinking of running propane through a threaded pipe that screws into an adapter on a pipe cross (rather than a Tee). This should roughly center the nozzle, while also allowing a variable mig tip depth. This approach requires the 3/4" npt(m) x 1/8" npt(f) adapter to be tapped to nps, and the ends of the 1/8" nps pipe to be died out to npt. The rest of the build is just assembly. Does anyone see anything glaringly inadequate or dangerous about this approach? I'm still waiting on some parts before I leak test and try to light it.
  12. I am building a Propane tank gas forge and i am using T burners. I am going to be using 2 inches of ceramic wool and covering that in refractory. I am having trouble finding information on how far the pipe bracket for the burner should go into the forge. I am thinking it should just go to cover the wool and use a form for the refractory is this the way I should do it? Also I am worrying about the refractory falling from the top is this a risk or should it stay in place after hardened? Thanks.
  13. Hey all, I’ve built a gas cylinder foundry furnace and a burner. It works great for melting Aluminum, but I want to melt copper. I ran it for like an hour and a half. The copper got bright orange and shimmery and very soft, but didn’t quite melt. I feel like I was very close to melting temp and just need a few (hundred) more degrees. I’ve adjusted the color in my photo to more accurately show the color (though it was glowing brighter). What can I do to eek some more heat from my burner? I ran it up to 20 psi. My burner is using a .023 mig tip. The burner is 3/4 pipe. Should I use a mig tip with a bigger hole? A wider diameter pipe? Higher psi? Should I add a blower to blow air down the pipe? Will any of those things help? Anything else I should consider?
  14. I am having a very confusing issue. I have built my own forge and burners. I have 0.35 tips and a 0 - 40 psi regulator. My issue is that for some reason I can't get that jet like burn. It doesn't have that jet like sound or pressure. I am at my witts end and I don't know what else to do?
  15. Hello all, First post here to show some results of experimenting with the slip casting of aluminiumoxide (alumina). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Slipcasting Got interested to make shapes with refractory oxides by the posts of MonkeyForge and Mellin although they were using zirconia and veegum/bentone and were forming the mass by hand. Zirconia is a little too expensive to mess around with so i went with alumina. Using a combination of digitalfire.com, wikipedia, google patents, google scholar I found a lot of info which I all read. But a lot of it was above what was achievable at home. And a lot of it is about achieving the "perfect" results. I just want a useable result... So... what did I do. I already had some alumina-bentone clay (97%/3%) because at first my idea was to make shapes by hand but I found that really difficult. So I made a batch of slip from this clay by adding lots of water and mixing it with a blender. Aiming for a consistency of heavy cream as was mentioned on DigitalFire. This I poured into a simple plaster of paris mold made out of a plastic drink cup. It worked but was incredibly slow in forming the walls. The plaster was sucking in the slip very fast at first but after a millimeter or so it slowed almost to a stop. Dried my plaster mold in the oven and tried again, same result. Not great, not terrible. Remembering what I read somewhere that bentonite has a "problem" with releasing water. The bentone in my slip was creating a layer and allowing almost zero water through. Created a new batch with 99% alumina and water. Poured into my plaster mold and behold incredible fast wall forming. Now almost too fast to keep the mold full. It dries really fast in the mold and releases itself from the mold walls within a couple hours. Then let it air dry for a couple days. With this succesfull "recipe" I made a larger batch of alumina slip, specific gravity was around 2.40 and the bucket was really heavy. But the slip was still really fluid. It will settle if you leave it sitting for a while so you have to mix it good before use. Also made a mold for a crucible and a burner head. These can be seen in the pictures I added. The crucible was some random cup I found somewhere and the burner head was 3D printed. Also 3D printed a hole pattern as a guide to drill out the holes in the burner head when it was dry enough to handle. The crucible I have not fired yet. The two burner heads are already fired and 1 of them sintered well because it has a nice ring to it when you hit it with a metal item. The other one is strong but has a somewhat empty sound when you hit it. I didn't really had a procedure to fire them so maybe that's the problem. I fired slowly for 3 hours to about 1000 degrees celsius and then went full power for about 1,5 hours, no idea what temperature, then slowly back to 800 degrees in about 3 hours, then i turned off the burner and closed up with ceremic blanket to cool down during the night. Measured temperatures were at the exhaust of my furnace (my thermocouple wire will melt inside). I hope the inside reached at least 1200 degrees celsius. (Using natural gas and a forced air burner) The same method can be used to cast items with zirconia, magnesia, etc. But you will need a higher temperature to sinter it well. Hope you guys can use some of the info and use it to create more cool stuff.
  16. 1/4" idea. Jet: mig tip fitted with .015 capillary tube and soldered into 1/4" elbow. Air chamber: coupling with 3 slots cut into every other side. Interior sanded smooth. Barrel: 1/4" pipe beveled on chamber side for fam flow. (the galvy will be soaked) Nozzle: ??? Currently have this stainless fitting I will try to tailer it to. Just a little experiment for a high power hand torch. Per Mikey's challenge, though not quite the same design.
  17. 20181229_093557.mp4 20181229_093659.mp4 I had my initial gas pressure too high and now I have a needle valve at the front of the line to reduce the pressure and its probably opened 1/3 -1/2 of the way open. My pressure guage should be here Monday. Then I have a second one at the burner to control the flame at the lowest burn without back burn its barely opened and then a full on burn its probably halfway open. I know I saw somewhere that when your forge gets to temperature the flame disappears which is what mine is doing but I also noticed a greenish flame coming out of the front when I turn it down to work on a hot piece ( I only see the green if the forge is hot not when I first light it on idle like in the bottom video). The burner is a Reil design with a .025 mig tip orifice. Flare is a k26 soft brick filed in a cone shape so the mixing pipe sits snug in the top about an inch. I'm going to be making a new burner and forge soon but my main question and reason for posting this is to find out if this is the right color of blue. I know really hot burn its supposed to be light blue with a kinda white center but that's almost too hot of a burn. And just the dark blue is a little too cold. I am trying to adjust to make this as fuel efficient as possible. Hence why I'm building a new forge that will have 2" kaowool with 2" HTC 100 on top of it hopefully that way it has more than enough insulation. 20181229_093659.mp4 20181229_093659.mp4 20181229_093515.mp4 20181229_093515.mp4 20181229_093622.mp4
  18. Greetings! I wanted to see if the experts on this forum might catch any red flags that may be causing combustion issues with my forge. I shot a quick video demonstrating the issue. The problem starts 3 mins, 10 secs in: I built this based mostly on the David Hammer Super C Forge and burner design (minus the side access slot). It has been running stable for months, but now after running for around 30 mins, the point of combustion shifts from the interior of the forge, to the end of the flair (about 1 inch inside the refractory). I get less time if I run it hotter. The burner port leaves about 1/4 inch of space around burner flair. Before shooting the video, I has run for a little over 30 mins. I let it cool for about 15 mins to capture the transition. Don't know if I need to tune the burner, if there are issues with my refractory, or something else that I might not have considered. I've been doing this for around 6-7 months so my knowlege is pretty limited. Any thoughts on where I might be going wrong here? Thank you for any input you might have.
  19. Well here it is. First off I've never built a forge or anything like it before lol so be gentle! And a big thanks to Wayne coe for all the supplies and super fast shipping! I Ran out of propane shortly after this video so I've only had it running for a few mins. I dislike the air valve I used because it's hard to turn it but it will do for now. It's not 100% finished plan on adding some things ie shelf ect. Seems like it was burning well but in intrested in what the hoard has to say lol. For some reason most of my pics wont upload.
  20. I am going to go see about building a forced air burner, Using the design off of this burner I have here. I would like to know if anyone has done one like this before and the problems they ran into? If i build it exactly as shown will is work well and safely? Also for the flared end i was going to take the 1 1/4 and forge it into the flared fitting described here with a 1 1/2 opening. Thanks and merry smithing, Matthew
  21. Hello all, Wanted to share my first build with you guys so I can hopefully get it done in a good way the first time. I am still working on getting supplies together. I don't have a bunch of fab equipment, so I am trying to re-purpose this old stainless sink. I am looking to create a really basic forge so I can get to heating steel relatively quickly, both in the sense of a easy build, but also a build that is well insulated. One thing I am still thinking out is the angle of the burner. I know a 10/15 degree offset is recommended. I am going to try the Zoeller sidearm burner, which I know is rated for ~350cu/in, so I will work on get the insulation sized correctly. Any tips or critiques, please send them. Thanks, Mic
  22. I am new at this and wanted to add forging capabilities to my metal shop so I decided to start small and work my way up from a soup can forge. Any and all recommendations are appreciated and if I am doing something wrong I always like to know. The soup can is lined with some kao-wool I got from a local pottery store, they did not stock any refractories, rigidizers, or products like plistix or itc 100 however the gentleman kindly advised me of a mix of fireclay with sodium silicate and water. My main concern was stopping the degradation of the kaowool which is evidently a heath problem. I don't have a lot of pictures of the building of the first forge because it was actually really quick and I also think I combined multiple plans. I used a short fatter soup can and drilled 2 holes in the side for mounting to a piece of stock that I had bent a 90 degree bend into and a slightly larger hole than the half inch nipple I use to hold the burner at about 2 o'clock when looking into the can. I lined the inside with 1 inch of kaowool on the bottom and sides using the seam of the side to allow the burner to come into the chamber tucked into the cloth. After I had the can bolted to the stand and the liner in place I mixed the clay, sodium silicate and water to a chocolate milk consistency and poured onto the fabric in a very thin layer which was aided by the thin viscosity of the mix. I took my mappro torch and with the lightest flame setting and dried the surface of the clay then put the torch in the burner port and heated it up to essentially what you hopefully see in my picture. To avoid flames coming out the mouth of the can I have to run the torch on its pretty much lowest setting but It still will get a nail glowing hot in a minute or less. My conclusion from this little can forge is I love working with it but I wanted to be able to work larger stock. So I got working on another project the box forge I added some extra features I thought I would like but I didn't know how to account for the difference in volumes of chambers. I made the case out of 20 and 18 gauge sheet, made a door, handmade the crude hinges and made a base with a white firebrick which I later changed to the lighter style. I have problems with losing too much heat and am pretty sure I would need to upgrade to a real burner setup. Any advice on next steps would be greatly appreciated P.s. that hunk of ash will possibly be my anvil stand
  23. Note; this is being going to be used for a gasoline burner of my own hybrid design, reminiscent of the riel linear burner, and a coleman stove. (I've posted in the alternative gas-oil/gasoline forum on here about the details of that build.) The reason I'm attempting to build a ceramic burner nozzle is that the original burner nozzle from my gasoline burner oxidized away quite quickly in my foundry/forge, probably this was accelerated by the slightly oxidizing conditions it was originally being run at, and the burner design caused flame in the nozzle, this excessive heat destroyed the cheap exhaust coupling I used for the nozzle within the last 3 months-probably a total of 10hours of run time. So after some attempts at making the forge work with an integrated nozzle, and the coils built into the refractory, (didnt warm up fast enough for this burner design), I decided to try and make a ceramic nozzle Process I had some calcined alumina, zirconium silicate, and bentonite left over from rebuilding my foundry. Chosen composition was 97% wt calcined alumina, and 3% bentonite, final actual 96.9% alumina, 3.1% bentonite.-I wanted to minimize shrinking during firing, and drying because I only had a few hours to make it. The powders were weighed out, and mixed dry, and then 25% wt water was added, this was still too dry for hand forming, so I added water until the clay was just on the sticky side of plastic. The clay was squished, and folded until the even consistency and absolutely no difference in moisture or visual appearance was noticeable. The clay was shaped into a ball, and formed into a nozzle shape on the end of a new burner pipe (8x3/4 pipe nipple), placed onto a heating vent under cover of a terracotta bowl, and dried, then dried in oven up to 400f (200c) approx 1 hour. After this drying it was very fragile, but I threaded it onto the burner pipe to attempt to make threads on the nozzle. Placed back into the oven, and brought to 400f, then transferred into orange hot foundry, with a steel cup covering it to prevent flame hot spots. after 10 mins the burner was put to maximum, and it was heated for 30minutes, during which that was the hottest my foundry has ever gotten. It was cooled until orange/red, and then removed and placed onto the lid to cool. The nozzle has a ring to it, and only one small surface crack, shrinkage approx 2-3%, it will need to be ground out slightly to fit the burner pipe Next weekend I will test it in the foundry. Pictures Foundry minus the lid, with the old burner installed heating up. Full blast, the old burner was not functioning perfect due to its state, however it was needed to fire the new nozzle. The view through the burner shows how hot the forge is.The lid along with some extra stuff I put to maximize the heat. Believe it or not this picture was taken in the middle of the day, you can imagine the colour is extremely distorted, this was during the hottest part of the sintering. The nozzle, still very hot, cooling off on the lid of the forge. Complete nozzle, due to the shrinkage didn't thread all the way onto the pipe. Testing next week :), any suggestions or comments welcome.
  24. I found this youtube video on making a simple burner for a gas forge. I have made a burner to melt aluminum in a foundry before. With most burners (and the one I made) I find that they cost a lot to make or require a lot of up-keep. This one seems almost too simple. What do y'all think? I'm not looking for it to last my whole life but to just get started in gas forges. https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=5&v=67rxU02fv6o (P.S. I would make quite a few modifications like an air flow regulator and such.) Your boi, Jacob
  25. Hello.... I have a few questions... I'm in the process of making a forced air burner.... my question is my gas comes in from the side at 90deg to the air pipe... I feel that it would be better if it came in from the same direction as the air does... I've attached a pic of my 1st attempt and then a pic of my next sort of plan..... someone said to me for forced air I should use 1 1/2 in piping for burner tube and air intake.... can anyone give some input... thanks Nic
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