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I Forge Iron

Rebuilding forge


Jimw3326

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good to see you back Thomas, you have the whole site worried we haven't got all the knowledge out of you that we need:D plus, what fun will the pun wars be without your input? 

all jokes aside hope you get well soon, my family just got a similar scare as we found out last week that my Oma in Germany has acute Leukemia

M.J.Lampert

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1 hour ago, ThomasPowers said:

Time to start sorting; gotta hide all the books from JHCC!

The minions are here and happy to help. Trust us we found the good hiding spots. Some that you don't use or check that often. 

I was recently looking at photos going over 10 years back. It is interesting seeing a forge body change over the years. the relining efforts, the changes to the face plate/front door, and even changing the burners. Same forge body, even though I know for a fact it is thinner in a few places, but multiple changes over the years. Didn't really notice as it happened. Scope creep or what ever, but seeing some photos from the early days shows a shocking difference. 

Thom, Minion to Thomas, and I have no idea where those books were hidden, are you sure they were here to begin with? 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

Jim: please edit the videos out of your post, posted straight off a cell phone means they're enormous downloads that don't show as much useful  detain as a still pic. They have been wasting bandwidth on my high speed connection for a couple minutes now and I have 0.01 of 0.6 seconds of one and 0.01 of 0.30 seconds of the second. Not hitting the start button shows me all I need to see. Unfortunately the only way to stop the download is delete your post. 

Not that I don't want to help but I need decent information and videos suck. 

As Mike requests still pics in good light would be useful, I'd like a look at the entire burner and some details about it's construction.

Frosty The Lucky.

 

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Okay, so this is someone's interpretation of a Mikey burner. Unfortunately, they did it WRONG!

To begin with, the air openings are slots; not rectangles. Sots are easier to make, and after all Hybrid burners get away with slots, right? Yes, they sure do. But those slots forward ends dump the incoming air into a reducer fitting, which supplies that extra spin that those slots couldn't achieve on their own. In other word that type of burner is a cross between a tube burner and a linear burner; thus the name Hybrid. So square up the formard and rearward edges of those slots, to make rectangles. Then bevel the forward edges on their inner surfaces, leaving a knife edge on their out surfaces.

See to it that the rearward edges of the new rectangular openings are also beveled. But bevel their outer surfaces, leaving knife edges on their inner surfaces.

Next, move the MIG tip forward so that its front edge is 5/16" away the the forward edges of the rectangular openings.

After you do that much, we will see what else is needed. Yes there are more things wrong with this burner, but they may not need to be changed.

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Hmmmm..... I must have missed something in the few months I was absent. I see that my mods got divided between a couple threads. The modification was discussed in a different thread and I followed the advice given. Probably in burners? I went from 'Nice job following the early Mikey design' to xxx.

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Don't sweat it Jim, we only have IIRC 24 hours to edit a post. For future use: in the upper right of of a post are e dots. select them and a menu will open, select "edit," make changes and save. 

WOW, you have to be careful who's "plans" you follow, some are junk or worse some outright fakes to get "likes" or whatever. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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Didn't have to look too far, previous page.

On 12/10/2022 at 4:08 AM, Jimw3326 said:

So I go to remove the burner and no-go. Turns out the exit has belled, pretty wild. Also disintegrating. 

It's about an 1 1/2" to long, .8125 id X 8.75 running a .031 tip. I do have the inlet beveled.

With the 2 burners, it would melt a #2 crucible of copper in 20-30 minutes.

Volume is about 990 in3, 10w. X 9h. X 14d. I used 9.5 for the dia.

The volume will reduce a little as I plan to line it with the cast refractory and still use the same depth of blanket, 2".

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On 12/9/2022 at 5:23 PM, Mikey98118 said:

Don't forget to put a Plistix 900 F coating on the forge interior.

I also suspect that your burners mixing tubes are just too long. Measure the inside diameter of the tubes, and multiply it nine times, to know how much tube length should exist between the forward edges of you air openings and the end of the tube.

Purchase a cheap (Chicago brand from Harbor Freight Tools) rotary tool, along with a $10 set of tungsten carbide rotary files, and put an internal bevel on the forward ends of your burners air openings; you won't believe how much hotter your forge will get. You could also put extenal bevels on those openings rear edges, but your openings are long enough that they would probably have minimal impact.

 

 

On 12/9/2022 at 5:04 PM, Mikey98118 said:

To begin with, as much as I can tell from your photos, you don't have any major problems with those Mikey burners, nor with the shape you chose for your forge. If you are redoing the forge interior anyway, this is the perfect opportunity for you to make the two changes that will actually make it more efficient.

Congratulations on choosing an oval shape for your forge; this time, turn it on its side, where it belongs, and decrease its internal area. Doing this will allow you to cut those burner's gas pressure way back, saving about half your fuel use. Your burners have very large turn-down ranges, so you don't need to build smaller burners.

I note that you even followed my advice on what to use for fuel hoses; that more than following my early design, down to the flared end on their choke sleeves shows that you followed something directly or indirectly quoted  from the 2004  book.

 

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2 hours ago, Jimw3326 said:

So I go to remove the burner and no-go. Turns out the exit has belled, pretty wild. Also disintegrating.

I was hoping you wouldn't need to deal with this just now. However, you have just perfectly described how a heavily oxidized flame retention nozzle looks. Unfortunately, those nozzles were welded on. Fortunately, it looks like you either used stainless-steel or seventy series rod, with your amperage on the low, rather than high side. It may be that you will be able to grind the weld away well enough to knock what remains of their nozzles loose, without damaging the mixing tubes heavily.

You already know that their replacement nozzles need to have a spacer ring placed between the nozzle's outer tube, and the mixing tube that the ring slides over. The spacer ring should be 1" long; to that should be added a length equal to the outer tubes inside diameter, plus at least 1/8". You have already installed, socket head set screws at the burner's other end, so you need no directions on how to use them to control each burner's flame retention nozzle.

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