ILoveSteel Posted January 4, 2023 Share Posted January 4, 2023 Here's a stand I made for my single burner Mr. Volcano forge. I picked up a scrap brake disc from a local auto parts store, welded a 1/8th thick precut circle to it. Next was some leftover DOM tube I had as the main stem. Cooling shelf is expanded steel and angle bracket. Top is 3/16th" thick 12"x12" plate (just the right size and I already had on hand). The edges are also 3/16", welded and then ground down for aesthetic reasons. Overbuilt but heavy enough that it won't tip over or rock. Portable too so I can relocate in my garage when I want to fire the forge up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 7, 2023 Share Posted January 7, 2023 Add a hinged bar with a swinging leg as a third hand helps a lot with longer pieces in the forge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveSteel Posted January 8, 2023 Author Share Posted January 8, 2023 Thomas, thank you for the recommendation! Continuous improvement is an idea I can get behind. That would work well when straightening out RR rail anchors, as I weld a section of rebar to the end of an anchor as a handle, it becomes handle-heavy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted January 8, 2023 Share Posted January 8, 2023 Good Morning, The Bigger/Larger/Wider and Heavier, you can make the Base, the better. You have a lot of leverage from the forge at the Top, to the Base. The Forge when hot, does not want an ACCIDENT, if you bump it. Your first reaction will be to try to grab it!!!!!!!!! Your top plate doesn't look like there is room for bricks to partially cover the open ends. The back can/will be blocked off and the front will have an access hole/slot near the bottom to allow Tong access. Heat rises, so you can block across the top, of the front. This will allow the interior to stay hot and you can adjust your Propane pressure down. You may find that you will leave an opening/slot at the back, to act as a chimney. For the Burners to work - IN, you must allow for a chimney - OUT. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted January 8, 2023 Share Posted January 8, 2023 10 hours ago, ILoveSteel said: Thomas, thank you for the recommendation! Continuous improvement is an idea I can get behind. And it's a very handy idea indeed. Not every improvement needs to happen at once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveSteel Posted January 9, 2023 Author Share Posted January 9, 2023 Swedefiddle, thank you. To address top-heaviness, I feel it's not a worry, as the brake disc holds a lot of weight, and the DOM tube is thick wall, lots of mass as well). Brake disc is flush with the floor as well. My top plate does have enough room to have a firebrick front and rear, and I do use those to trap heat. Here's a pic (I thought was cool) of some indeliberate heat treatment done to the top panel. It also shows one of my bricks in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Gixxer Posted January 9, 2023 Share Posted January 9, 2023 I'd cut that cast brake rotor off before it breaks off and make a different base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott NC Posted January 9, 2023 Share Posted January 9, 2023 Nice stand, ILoveSteel. You seem satisfied as to it's stability, however it would be a simple matter to weld some angle iron (angle, pipe, whatever) legs on all four corners. Then you could remove the rotor or leave it on for more ballast as you see fit. Safety suggestions are SOP around here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted January 9, 2023 Share Posted January 9, 2023 Filling the base with sand would also help shift the center of gravity downwards a bit more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveSteel Posted January 10, 2023 Author Share Posted January 10, 2023 Mr_Gixxer, Scott NC, JHCC- With three suggestions to further secure the base, I will think about your recommendations and make further adjustments. I realize that I am in the virtual company of people who have far more smithing knowledge and experience than I have, so it is wise to take that given advice. Thank you for being courteous in your responses. This is the only forge stand I've ever designed and fabricated, my intent was to be a floor space saver in my 2 car garage, trying to avoid taking up too much horizontal space with all of my tools and other fun stuff. Again I will brainstorm on further improvements and share. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Gixxer Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 I've tried making rotors work before, welds just pop right off in my experience. They are very enticing to use for stuff around the shop though, I get it. Bolting to these might be a better alternative, if you still can run a couple holes through the base plate and tighten it down. Just hate to see a running forge fall over when you turn your back. I like the addition of the shelf, I might try that to one of my forges. Can't have too many "catch alls" for tools around the shop after all. Happy smithing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveSteel Posted January 10, 2023 Author Share Posted January 10, 2023 I appreciate that! I might cut off that rotor after all, I did experience different cooling contraction rates when the circle on top of the rotor (thin metal) and the rotor itself (thick metal) were cooling off, I didn't preheat nor wrap that assembly with a welding blanket to control cooling of the weld, and I could hear the tell-tale "ping" sounds of weld cracking. I felt that with a full bead all the way around that I could get by. I have a stockpile of various angle, channel, flat bar et cetera that a new base could be fabricated from. Maybe some diagonal bracing to the column as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 The thing about the rotor for the base that caught my eye is the diameter of the foot print. I have found that when making a base for tools, if the base is smaller than what it is holding it will be "tippy" and easy to pull it over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 Good Morning, Brake Rotors and Drums are Cast Iron, that is because cast Iron will take a lot of heat without deforming. Cast Iron will not stay welded to almost anything, it normally cracks the weld when initially cooling (different material=different cooling rates). It is all part of learning. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveSteel Posted January 10, 2023 Author Share Posted January 10, 2023 That settles it, the rotor goes (it was free anyway). New base to be made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les L Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 ILS, I've attached some pictures of a stand I made for my volcano forge. It's 37 inch high, so I don't have to bend over, has a 22 inch base with wheels and adjustable tool rest, that folds to the side when not in use. It is very stable and easy to move around in the shop or transport to our club meetings. This is the first of three I have made for two volcano forges and a three burner majestic for our club. If you put wheels on one I suggest installing all swivel, I put two straight and two swivel on the first and will be changing it to all swivel. due to the ease of moving them to different locations. We use the on concrete, stone, and dirt with no trouble. Hope this gives you some ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveSteel Posted January 10, 2023 Author Share Posted January 10, 2023 Les L, That's a pretty awesome setup! Nice job! Might borrow an idea or 2 from that. Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted January 11, 2023 Share Posted January 11, 2023 Good Morning, I have used recycled Bar-B-Que stands. They just need some minor tack welding to stiffen up the frame. You can add or subtract whatever you want. It also has 2 wheels, so it is portable. No neighbor fusses about a Bar-B-Que sitting outside, when you are done. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gewoon ik Posted January 11, 2023 Share Posted January 11, 2023 Les thanks for the picture. I also have to make a stand for my forge, now I put it on my welding table. You put something between the shelf and the forge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les L Posted January 11, 2023 Share Posted January 11, 2023 I put fire bricks under the forge, thinking I needed that for insulation, because I wanted to store the gas bottle under the forge. After using it I would use expanded metal, or sheet metal, under the forge because there is not enough heat below the forge to be an issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 12, 2023 Share Posted January 12, 2023 SDST metal screws can be used to help stiffen up a gas grill stand if you don't have a welder too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveSteel Posted March 12, 2023 Author Share Posted March 12, 2023 Hello all! Back after improvements made. First of all, my advice for other Mr. Volcano owners-be aware that low tank pressures will cause the flame to back travel to the burner tube, melting the hose (see picture). To remedy this, I installed a 3/8" flared 90° elbow to have a better angle for the hose, and to angle it away from any possible flames. New 5/16" I.D. hose too. Added a Harbor Freight tank level meter. Although no numerical PSI reading on it, the gauge shows "remaining" fuel level in the tank (I had a Harbor Freight gift card burning a hole in my wallet, so no $ of my own spent!) The biggest change was making the base heavier and more secure. I had some scrap railroad rail collecting dust, so I fabricated a square frame from angle iron to hold the two rails, and added casters to the base. I welded in a 3/16" plate between the two rails, and rewelded the pole and rest of the stand to the new base. I also welded in a back plate to hold fire bricks, closing off the back end for better heat retention. Definitely getting hotter quicker. Much much more secure now, I do appreciate the recommendations to make things better! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted March 13, 2023 Share Posted March 13, 2023 Love the ballast in the base of the stand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveSteel Posted March 13, 2023 Author Share Posted March 13, 2023 IronDragon ForgeClay Works, thank you! You were one person whose advice influenced me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted March 15, 2023 Share Posted March 15, 2023 You're welcome, glad to be of a little help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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