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About Jspool

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Port Orchard, WA
  • Interests
    Blade smithing, wood turning, photography, music, fishing

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  1. Swage Block Stand Design

    Thanks guys. I painted it Frosty Green so I’ll always remember where the base of the idea came from! No gold however. The grinder base is from an old barber chair. Heres a few more photos. No videos yet until I figure out how to hold the iphone. Here it is all set up in horizontal position. The securing strap should be down out of the way until its used when tilting the block to vertical. Like this. 3/4” holding bar gets moved to make sure the block doesn’t shift. When the block is in the horizontal, center the jack and pad (which is secured) and jack it up. Turn the block so the desired edge will be in the up position when tilted to vertical. Like this. Curved swages are now on the bottom. All put away in its garage. The low vise will be used a lot. This project was a long time coming and a lot of fun to do. Total weight is right around 700 lbs Stand 280 Block 210 Vise 210
  2. Swage Block Stand Design

    Waiting for the paint to dry on some touch up areas. Final assembly this afternoon.
  3. What Would Your Anvil Say?

    “Whenever I get hammered you’re hitting on me! Its hardy funny and I’m fullered of it!”
  4. Swage Block Stand Design

    Taking shape, and longer than I expected (as always).
  5. Show me your shop!

    Thats a fantastic story Frosty. Especially the ingenuity of getting the ants to carry the powder into the nest for you! Now my gasoline blasting of mole tunnels doesn’t sound so cool anymore.
  6. That’s one of the best tutorial videos I have seen. The dual screen perspective and your camera angles show the hammer use very clearly. And, its all done without excessive chatter and raucous music! Thanks for taking the time to do this.
  7. Swage Block Stand Design

    All this posting and discussion has got me fired up to finall do something with my 18" swage block. Its just too heavy for me to man handle around. Frosty's and Tonys's posts about tilting the block and a trunnion block morphed in my brain, and I came up with this: A hinged strap (not drawn) will retain the block in the tray when its rotated to vertical. To rotate the block for choosing the top edge you want to be exposed when in vertical, I will place a bottle jack on the lower shelf, jack the block up, rotate, and lower back down. The strap will need to be released to do this. .75" holes on the sides are for a .75" retention rod to hold the block in the chosen position. Shelf off of the back is for a low post vise. Shelf is 22.5" high. Constructed from .5" mild steel. Going together tomorrow!
  8. Forged Rocking Chair WIP

    I’m thoroughly impressed. Great chair!
  9. Ladder Damascus Dies

    Thanks Thomas. I'll look for that
  10. Ladder Damascus Dies

    I found that the problem I had with grinding grooves in the billet and hammering them out was avoiding cold shuts. Theres not much worse than making a final grind pass on a blade just to find out you’ve exposed an inclusion. I then used dies as Thomas entioned with using rods. It works well. This machined die set is the first step toward other more elaborate ladder dies which could only be milled.
  11. Unknown 8” Post Vise

    Based upon the chamfered corners and rams horn mount type, I’m guessing English made early to mid 19th century?
  12. Unknown 8” Post Vise

    Yep. The Shelton Swap meet. Too bad it was raining. I would have liked to talk to more of the engine guys more. Interesting that your mousehole has that stamp. I’ll have to check mine.
  13. Unknown 8” Post Vise

    I found this 8” post vise at a swap meet today. Almost no identifying marks. Can it be an Iron City? This might be a makers mark. Its only around a half inch in size. The line is just a line in the metal. Not a crack.
  14. I have been offered a 14" x 16" x 1.25" chunk of A572 steel. It was originally purchased as a winch foundation. Although I was told that it was a hard alloy, I can't really see where the properties are much different than A36 mild steel. Can someone tell me whether this material will be better to use for power hammer and hydraulic press dies than mild steel? Thanks