• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About CMS3900

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 10/12/1983

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Townsend, Delaware
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, Knifemaking, Firearms from flint to modern, machining, history, and sailing

Recent Profile Visitors

1,065 profile views
  1. If I were in a jam I would take some of the steel to your local welding store, tell them what equipment your running and they might be able to suggest a small stick rod or some other process for the application that fits the equipment you have. Just let them know the end product needs to be food-grade.
  2. Tig would be the best way to put these together, Rivets would work, but if the pan is heated it might warp and not have a water tight seal.
  3. Keep us updated on how it goes, and post pics!
  4. Your doing your research man, and its smart to do. I had quoted a 165 from TZ Rufna, and found they had a similar price. Pros of buying a hammer direct from china: Less expensive, the two piece hammers can be indexed so the die is straight front and back, not just left and right hand angle, which would of been easier to stack on a angle next to my Bradleys that have the die in that position. I have not heard of a DOA hammer. Cons: Could possibly incur extra customs fees, doesn't come with a motor, very limited warranty and parts support, does not have any of the upgrades or bugs worked out that are present on the Anyang, or the stroke of the new HS hammers.
  5. Are you using forced air or naturally aspirated burners?
  6. I have a 33 HS, and I love it. James Johnson is a great person to deal with, and promptly returns emails and phone calls. I even emailed him in the middle of the night one time, thinking he would answer the next day, and he emailed me back almost within the hour. The machine arrived in a nice steel framed, wood covered crate, and after basic setup was hammering in no time. The only issue I have had was that the tup would not retract, which was fixed by running a lighter oil in the machine. James and Bruce Beamish have worked with the factory to fix a lot of issues the machines have had in the past. The top die key no longer retracts into the machine, possibly causing a loose key to beat the machine up as the older Anyangs could, as well as Strikers and other Import hammers possibly could have. The HS (heavy series) hammers also have more stroke for top tooling. James runs all the hammers before he ships them in order to assure the customers hammer will work flawlessly out of the box. I went through mine anyway with a fine toothed comb before starting it, lubing all the points in the manual only to find he had already done so. I haven't run many hammers but I really like the control the Anyang has. I have a few mechanical hammers in my shop I am in the process of rebuilding, and selling them to put money toward a 165 HS Anyang has definitely been in the back of my mind after using the 33. The only con I can think of is price compared to a *used* comparable weight mechanical hammer, but my thoughts were when I purchase the Anyang was that it was turn key, new, and had a warranty, which offset the additional cost. On the flip side, if I had found a similar weight mechanical hammer that was 100% rebuilt, tuned in, and turn key it would be in the same price range. --Morgan
  7. Welcome to IFI Caleb. When you get a chance, add your location to your profile so when you start asking questions folks will know where your at to assist better. Who knows, you might even live near a member on here!. It looks like your getting your shop together nicely. Fire prevention is always key so it's good to see the extinguisher. As for the forge, you might be able to modify it later to open on the end. There's a bunch of reading on here on forges, forge design, and materials.
  8. Wood shavings and fire is always a concern so your on the right track being mindful of fire safety. Can doors be fitted to any of the run in sheds? The run in shed combo would give space for the mower and the motorcycle and room for other stuff. It would look pretty good with a lean-to off the front for smithing in the summer.
  9. Sounds like your on the right track. Welcome to IFI!
  10. No, not the 9" wheel, you need a 9" carbide saw blade like the other thread. (sarcasm in effect)
  11. I, like Emower have been told by several blacksmiths in my area that IFI isn't worth my time. I disagree with them on most points; however I do feel there is room for improvement. The feeling I am getting from the last couple of posts in this thread is that "crumudgeons" feel people are turned off from the site because: There lazy and don't want to look, they can't take hard criticism, or they want to do something in easy mode when blacksmithing and its various disciplines are by default laborious. These type of people will come to the site regardless and dealing with them should be easy. Just don't answer them. I have been on a mess of technical forums that have the same issue as here. People sign up, post a question that's been beat to death without looking for the answer. If you don't answer them and a day later they post a bunch of new information they got off the forum and have more questions then you know at least they are trying to work the problem out themselves. This alleviates new people searching the forum for the first time only to find a snarky comment under every beaten to death topic, which turns them away from joining. I operate on forums with the guidelines I was taught as a kid. If I don't have something nice to say, I don't say anything at all. Everyday I see at least one snarky or sarcastic comment. Heck, in my first thread here I was basically called a idiot without anyone knowing what my skills or abilities were, which I have seen happen again to other folks. I have even warned a few new folks via PM that they were about to get it, and they did. Assumptions have no place on a forum where it is just as easy as asking a constructive question as it is to post something snarky. What's even easier is posting nothing at all. The second thing I would suggest is loosen up the restrictions for outside links. Myself, and other folks I have spoke with feel IFI acts within it's own microcosm, where any question can be BEST answered by information already on the forums. I feel sometimes there might be a thread on another forum, or a website, or someplace else on the web that explains the question in a manner the poster feels is better than information currently on IFI. Any technical community thrives through collaboration. A forum in itself is a collaboration of minds. I just ask that IFI could take a greater part in the collaboration of the community as a whole. No other forum I have ever been on has had such strict links policies. Overall IFI is a great forum, with a wealth of information, great patrons, and decent folks. I am happy to be able to utilize it, and give back where I can.
  12. True but for what I want it to do, shrinking, shaping, louvering, it works well I suppose. I don't know too much about them but would like to learn more. A buddy of mine does land speed racing and has one, I think it's a P5, and the first time I saw it work I knew I needed one!
  13. There was a thread on this a while back, here ya go.
  14. That's a sweet hammer. One of the best clones I have seen actually. One of these days I would love to get a little pullmax.