CMS3900

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About CMS3900

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 10/12/1983

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  • Website URL
    www.pinetreeforge.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Townsend, Delaware
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, Knifemaking, Firearms from flint to modern, machining, history, and sailing

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  1. Hello Meridianfrost, The two distributors who I know of are Kelly Cupples who sells a bunch of different alloys and K&G who sell 1084 powder. Who they buy from, and what manufacturer made it I have no idea. I have not ordered from either of those retailers personally but I plan on buying some soon from Kelly, as he is regarded highly in the knifemaking community. My idea was to use 15n20 sheet to make a pattern and then fill the voids with 1084 powder, or take cut offs from other 1084/15n20 billets and pack them in 1084 powder. Kellys info can be found here as well as a old price list: http://www.hightemptools.com/steel.html As far as the best powder for blade performance, that will depend on the physical properties of the powder and how they react to what else you put in the tube. I would research each combination.
  2. The foil is to reduce scale. Depending on your application you can use no foil (most scale), foil (possibility for scale), or a anti-scale compound and foil (least possibility for scale). Some people just use anti-scale. For knives in A2 I use ATP-641 Anti Scale from Brownell's and Foil, because I do minimal grinding post heat treat.
  3. Not that I know of. It would be less efficient then the hammer in stock form unless you threw a bunch of money at it - way more money than it would cost to make or find parts to put it back in stock working order. How big of Beaudry are you talking about? Is something currently broke in it?
  4. Generally speaking folks use mild steel for the can because it's hard to find high carbon steel tube, and Nickel tube is expensive. Welding high carbon plate into a tube defeats the purpose because the weld is not high carbon. Using a release agent like white-out works sometimes inside the can to help it pull free easier. The powder you use in the can is critically important. Swarf might work, but if you want a good end result there are a few suppliers out there for Damascus powdered metals. Kelly Cupples sells a few recipes of steel in powder and is well regarded. As far as the soak, just be patient. If the forge is set right, and is holding welding heat just relax and drink a beverage or two. If things are right, you can't over cook it.
  5. Hey josef, I haven't used that machine, but I know a bit about those style machines. What are you looking to do with it? They can be good little machines for light duty, small work. If you have the room for it a full sized mill can usually be bought for the cost of one of the bench tops.
  6. What do you mean by convert it to air? Use a air motor to drive it or remove the eccentric system that's on it and replace it with a air cylinder? Beaudry's are pretty bomb proof and more or less considered the gold standard along with Bradley when it comes to mechanical hammers.
  7. That's pretty cool. K R Wilson made a ton of specialty tooling for Model T's and A's, with many surviving tools still in use today. My shops line boring rig for main bearings is based off of a K R Wilson.
  8. It sounds like a new style hammer, with the drive pulley behind the rear shaft support. Are the threads internal or external on the shaft? Most hammers have a threaded hole in the center of the shaft with a grease fitting to grease the clutch pulley.
  9. This guy asked a simple question and the first response he got was snarky and rude. Then when he responds to it, upset at the way his post was responded to, he's told his attitude's the one that's wrong. Then a moderator reinforces the behavior and continues to be rude. This happens more often than I care to see on this forum, and I have met several people who have left the forum, or were banned because of peoples attitudes. No one forces anyone to post in a thread, yet some here feel compelled to throw their 2c. in even if its just rude as xxxx, or counter productive to the conversation. That's now how the blacksmith community in my area works. That's not how I thought it was supposed to work here. We want people to get into the craft, for what ever reason, and encourage their passion within the bounds of their means and safety. We don't tell them to throw their tools out and buy something else. or make 5000 S hooks before you even look at making a knife shaped object. To add to what Kozzy and BIGGUN said @TJ Smith as a general rule of thumb your depth of cut should not exceed 1/2 the diameter of the end mill. Also, the direction of cut makes a difference with chatter. Try making sure your conventional milling as shown here. Your end mills matter too, but any two or four flute HSS, or high speed steel, end mill on a machine like that in brass should work. If your plunging the end mill make sure it's center cutting. Speed and feed guidelines go out the window because their based on a machine with a assumed weight and rigidity, and the Grizzly isn't anywhere near what the calculations were based off of. Work by feel with sharp cutters and good technique, take light cuts and learn the machine is my best advice. The Grizzly mills are popular and a lot of info is out there on how to tune them up. If you have a square column one like the G0762 it is a whole lot better than the round column. Hope that helped TJ
  10. Gotta love a Bradley, We need more pics! Patrick is @patrick on here. If you need manuals let me or Patrick know and either of us can send them to you. I can't tell the dimensions of your box, but it looks sufficient. Bradley wants a pit 5-1/2 foot deep for that hammer if you go by the book. There are a bunch of varying ways to make the pit, with threads here on IFI about it. Some people go all out, others pour concrete in a open hole, your mileage may vary. If your putting stone in the bottom and pouring concrete over it, I would put 1" rigid foam around the sides and bottom, with the corners and floor taped, and probably line the whole thing with plastic before pouring the concrete in.
  11. Parke Edwards -- Here's a interesting paper on it. http://udspace.udel.edu/handle/19716/12617
  12. That looks like some home made C-tek, the normal C-tek has the matrix extending through the thickness This looks like chickenwire, you can barely make out the twists between the sections. @cedarghost where did you find those at?
  13. Same here, wonder if its stainless chicken wire People take epoxy and make knife scales out of a lot of funny things.
  14. does it look like twisted wire between the honeycomb pattern?