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About CMS3900

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 10/12/1983

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  • Location
    Townsend, Delaware
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, Knifemaking, Firearms from flint to modern, machining, history, and sailing

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  1. Check out the ring lord, sounds like you are looking for a resistance welder. Similar to the welders people use to make bandsaw blades. This would let you weld together rings of any shape.
  2. Ok, JHCC is right, that most flintlock kits today use cast brass for the those parts, however sheet brass can be worked to create the shapes you want as well. As far as contacts I will PM you.
  3. Timgunn said it here, as it was explained to me. A 110v HT oven takes longer to come to temperature due to the available maximum wattage, and over that time some of the heat transfers out of the oven and needs to be replaced, lengthening the cycle more. Coming to temp faster with a 220v creates marginal savings in allowing less time for heat to escape, but savings none the less.
  4. Electric Heat treat ovens for heat treatment and tempering are in my opinion the only way to go. You know what the temperature is and you can soak at that specific temperature for the time needed as per a certain materials HT instruction. I also use my HT oven as my Kydex oven for molding sheaths and for various other projects. 220v is the preferred voltage because as you said, it uses less electric and will heat up faster. If you have issues with your gas forge post some pictures and maybe folks can help out.
  5. Wallace Gusler, His work is a great source of inspiration for me. I think I have watched that about 100 times.
  6. What type of hammer are you working on? Are you homebrewing a hammer? You mention a tire hammer, are you using any plans? Generally speaking when the hammer is at rest with the pivot at BDC, the toggle links should be almost perpendicular to the ram, with the inner ends of the links 1/2 to 3/4's of a inch lower than the outer ends, and the ram should have a gap between the dies. This gap is usually adjustable on most Dupont Linkage machines IE Duponts, Fairbanks, Little Giants, Mayers, and others by sliding the cross head up and down the pitman arm. This variable gap is there to allow the hammer to have a proper cycle when working various size stock. Spring pressure is based on the amount of force required to overcome the weight of the ram and leverage from the toggle arms pulling the links outward to lift the ram, and still having room to compress during the cycle. Spring rate is linear. The length of the toggle arms and links would be a function of both ram travel distance as well as room for spring compression, which is different for ever hammer.
  7. I hope to see one of these machines in person this year, but it really shows where the future is going.
  8. That's a pretty neat setup. On a Bradley the crankshaft eccentric is adjustable, for setting your length of stroke. On your machine it looks like length of stroke is set by loosening that assembly at the top of the connecting rod and sliding it closer to, or further away, from the pivot point along that big shaft. Someone posted some European power hammers that had a similar sliding mechanism like that a while back.
  9. Man, that's a cool hammer. So similar to a Bradley, but different. It's cool to see the different engineering approaches. Does it have a eccentric on the crankshaft like a Bradley, or is that what the adjustment at the top does?
  10. Lots of different punches. Treadle Hammers do amazing punch work.
  11. I think it looks great. Cool little EDC knife. The Zoolander reference is a +1 as well.
  12. I think the VFD was required for making the three phase motor on the hammer run off single phase. Just like the grinders where they have a three phase motor (specifically for need of speed control) but operate them on single phase. I wonder too if he did get it sorted out.
  13. Ouch S.Wright! I'm not from Jersey, but I am assuming you mean the Del. Memorial bridge? Up by you there is the NJ Blacksmiths association, and your still within (at least my usual) driving distance of the others I listed. The clubs are a great way to meet local smiths and find people who teach, or do open forge nights for club members.
  14. My 100 Lb LG had a hollow base, best way to tell if you have enough stock is to flip it on its side and see if it's hollow, and measure how much material is there. I know LG does a service where they saw cut the sow block and machine a new dovetail for a removable block, so there should be a bit of wall thickness there. What I am confused about with your post is your saying you would "mill" it down, and bolt the new die on. If you have a piece of equipment big enough to fit the casting in why not just fix it? The things I would be concerned with in your plan are if you plan to bolt directly into threads in the cast iron, the cast might not like that abuse. The hammers and presses you ran probably fastened a steel die into a steel base. If you weld a piece of 4140 on top of where you could thread and fasten too, the weld is a fail point between two dissimilar metals. I would try some basics and make it serviceable, it's hard to tell how bad it is without a picture. If those basics failed I would look for shops near you with the capacity to put it in a big horizontal. Even a smaller one like a 3" can set that whole casting on the bed, be indicated in, and the dovetails re machined after a good, solid, weld repair is done.
  15. Hey Kunkle, I am in Townsend, and I know of some other smiths in the area. While I don't attend monthly meetings either, I would suggest finding a way to get to the Blacksmith Guild of Central Maryland, and The Mid-Atlantic Smith Association (MASA) events when you can. The next event is The Annual Bill Gichner Memorial Hammer-In in Cordova, MD January 6 – 8 hosted by MASA.