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About CMS3900

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 10/12/1983

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  • Location
    Townsend, Delaware
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, Knifemaking, Firearms from flint to modern, machining, history, and sailing

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  1. Walter flap disks are what I usually use, or Norton. I get them from my local welding supply store.
  2. lol that depends on which thread you read, or what your question is. Ask about melting scrap to forge with and see what happens. If your a east coaster, also check out SOFA, Their Quad State show is really great.
  3. Tongs, generally are one of the first things people want to make, but their efforts usually would be better spent learning basic smithing techniques. My personal recommendations for any smith who is just getting into it, and has acquired the tools you have are: Join your local ABANA affiliate and meet some people. Also join ABANA Go to and buy his books. Some might think them pricey, I did, but their worth every penny. Take some classes if time and funds permit, or look for open forge nights with your affiliate. Go to Kens Custom Iron and get some quick tong kits. Put them together and practice the skills from the books. Search on here how to make a anvil stand out of 4x4's or 6x6's.
  4. From that picture it looks like you have a Low pressure regulator, which could be your issue. Usually the one's I see most have a wheel on one side for adjustment. Something like this: Also, before you get heckled, I would put your location in your profile so people can know if their near you to help out.
  5. Welcome to IFI! Sounds like your on the path. The best thing to do for both questions is post pictures, lots of pictures. Take pictures of the anvil, the forge, the burner and one of the flame when the burners lit. Also, post a picture of the regulator you are using. A weak flame could be a clogged gas orifice, A/F ratio tuned wrong, or a regulator issue.
  6. Trinity Site was pretty cool. Got a chance to go there a while back while on a guard summer camp mission to build the great wall. Wish I would of known about the VLA, but we drove from Deming, so I doubt I could of convinced everyone to drive there after trinity, and then back to base. The year I went, the whole "site" was chain linked fenced off, so no Trinitite prospecting was allowed, but there were tables setup with Trinitite and Geiger counters to use on it. It might of been my east coast ocean front blood but even in the desert it felt a bit "warmer" there. I would think wet sanding would cut down a lot on dust. It makes me wonder what differences there are with working stabilized toxic woods vs. raw wood.
  7. It's used a lot in the heat treating process for blades. Products like ATP-641. Satanite or fireplace mortar in a pinch. AC forge, You could use anti-scale on it to forge, and acid etch it deeper later if need be. You may need to re-apply the anti scale a few times throughout the forging process depending on the product.
  8. The groups around us are a pretty laid back good group of people. There are a few good shows and events each year I try to get to, but its pretty much participate as much as you want. BGCM's Blacksmith Days are great, May 20 & 21, 2017 in Westminster, MD. Tuckahoe's steam and gas show 7/6 to 7/9, and their blacksmith day 9/10 in Easton, MD. BGCM and Matt Harris Metalsmith Studio usually have a event in the fall Octoberish in Perryville, MD. The newsletters usually have great information in them too.
  9. Hey Eli, Welcom to IFI. Where abouts on the eastern shore are you? I am over in DE, and there are a couple of good groups in our area if you hadn't already heard. Mid-Atlantic Smiths Association (MASA) and the Blacksmith's Guild of Central Maryland (BGCM).
  10. If I were in a jam I would take some of the steel to your local welding store, tell them what equipment your running and they might be able to suggest a small stick rod or some other process for the application that fits the equipment you have. Just let them know the end product needs to be food-grade.
  11. Tig would be the best way to put these together, Rivets would work, but if the pan is heated it might warp and not have a water tight seal.
  12. Keep us updated on how it goes, and post pics!
  13. Your doing your research man, and its smart to do. I had quoted a 165 from TZ Rufna, and found they had a similar price. Pros of buying a hammer direct from china: Less expensive, the two piece hammers can be indexed so the die is straight front and back, not just left and right hand angle, which would of been easier to stack on a angle next to my Bradleys that have the die in that position. I have not heard of a DOA hammer. Cons: Could possibly incur extra customs fees, doesn't come with a motor, very limited warranty and parts support, does not have any of the upgrades or bugs worked out that are present on the Anyang, or the stroke of the new HS hammers.
  14. Are you using forced air or naturally aspirated burners?
  15. I have a 33 HS, and I love it. James Johnson is a great person to deal with, and promptly returns emails and phone calls. I even emailed him in the middle of the night one time, thinking he would answer the next day, and he emailed me back almost within the hour. The machine arrived in a nice steel framed, wood covered crate, and after basic setup was hammering in no time. The only issue I have had was that the tup would not retract, which was fixed by running a lighter oil in the machine. James and Bruce Beamish have worked with the factory to fix a lot of issues the machines have had in the past. The top die key no longer retracts into the machine, possibly causing a loose key to beat the machine up as the older Anyangs could, as well as Strikers and other Import hammers possibly could have. The HS (heavy series) hammers also have more stroke for top tooling. James runs all the hammers before he ships them in order to assure the customers hammer will work flawlessly out of the box. I went through mine anyway with a fine toothed comb before starting it, lubing all the points in the manual only to find he had already done so. I haven't run many hammers but I really like the control the Anyang has. I have a few mechanical hammers in my shop I am in the process of rebuilding, and selling them to put money toward a 165 HS Anyang has definitely been in the back of my mind after using the 33. The only con I can think of is price compared to a *used* comparable weight mechanical hammer, but my thoughts were when I purchase the Anyang was that it was turn key, new, and had a warranty, which offset the additional cost. On the flip side, if I had found a similar weight mechanical hammer that was 100% rebuilt, tuned in, and turn key it would be in the same price range. --Morgan