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About CMS3900

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    Senior Member

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  • Location
    Townsend, Delaware
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, Knifemaking, Firearms from flint to modern, machining, history, and sailing

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  1. Shop around, call the different suppliers and talk to their technical departments. See what looks best. Jlp, I would love for my LWS to give me a $500 sample of 10 lbs of 460 lol. While we buy a lot and have a great relationship with them, I haven't seen many samples. Norton Abrasives on the other hand sent me about $1000 in samples at one point, a ton of Norax and Merit belts and hand stones. Their rep also gave me this sharpening stone set in nice individual covered wood boxes. Needless to say I use Norton for all my belts and stones now.
  2. I would call Esab and tell them what you have and they can give a good recommendation. The 4-60 while expensive, welds really nice. It has nickle in it, but is totally different than E99 or Ni-Rod.
  3. Such a interesting piece. I have never seen a LG built like that. The ram guide is very interesting, and there is no adjustment at the cross head. I have no clue where the SN would be on it. Usually they were cast into the frame on later models. The 250 is a "S" model so the SN should start with a S. On my old style P model, there were also patent dates stamped into the ram. If you end up having to re-pour the bearings one upgrade I highly recommend is replacing the babbitt bearing in the friction pulley with a bearing bronze one. It will last a lot longer, and that bearing is really the hardest one to pour because it should be machined afterward. If it were me, I would strip the machine down and sand blast it, then with just the frame go through the process to weld the cracks right. My go-to rod for repairs like this is Allstate 4-60. You might find more stamping or info under all the coats of grease and paint.
  4. CMS3900


    Sweet. If it had nine new belts for it, for that price you bought some new belts and got one of the best grinders out there for free.
  5. A steel post going up above the hammer with the electric motor and pulleys mounted on it makes for shorter drive belt length. I would increase the diameter of the V belt pulleys as well. A 2" pulley is really small, harsh radius that can lead to premature belt wear depending on the type of belt your using. Making the drive side flat belt pulley out of wood should be totally fine. carries flat belt if you're looking for that too.
  6. CMS3900


    That is a really, really good deal. Buy it now. Bader Space Saver, 132 inch belt. That's the grinder production shops use over 2x72's, a Cadillac of grinders. New is 5,200 bucks.
  7. Clean anvil with a cleaner that will remove all the dirt and oil without a residue. The liberally spray with CRC SP-400. Put wherever; check every 6 mo. or so.
  8. CMS3900

    Anchorage Ak. Earthquake 2018

    Glad to hear everything is good Frosty, and it is amazing that no fatalities or injuries have been reported. Before I decided to work full time for my family's machine shop, I was in the emergency management field so I automatically look at this from a case study perspective. To me, it is amazing to see how a area handles disaster when preparedness is a way of life vs. not even a consideration. In college I polled about 150 students about how long after a disaster they expected someone to show up with a bottle of water and a blanket for them. The majority said within 4 hours post incident.
  9. You can buy Urethane rod in what ever duro you need, say 85-90 shore A. MSC lists up to 3 inch and call for custom sizes. I would give them a call and see what a 12 inch piece of 6" diameter would cost, or if they have something else that would work.
  10. I'm going to ask, why a vulcanizer instead of using off the shelf pourable urethane or machining urethane rod? The vulcanizer will be more OEM but man that seems like an investment.
  11. Hey Jon, To help you better as well can we get a little history on the hammer. How long have you owned it? When was it manufactured? How much run time do you think is on it? What type of oil do you run in it? When did you first start noticing this issue? Where are these air leaks coming from?
  12. CMS3900

    flat platen material.

    The ceramic glass platen liners hold up really well. I have never heard of one failing. D2 would be bomb proof for a long time without the coating, but I wonder what the heat transfer would be like.
  13. CMS3900

    Aspiring blacksmith wishing for personal lessons

    Hey Arthur, I think your project is one your passionate about, and is possible; you just need to sort some stuff out. With any project you have basic questions: What do you wish to accomplish? How do you wish to accomplish it? What parameters are set in stone and which are flexible. You know you want to remake the armor and sword. You know that your converting a prop over to a functional piece. The total project has several parts - the sword, the mail, the various pieces of plate mail ect.. The next step is how to accomplish this. Finding a mentor is one. Contacting and joining your local ABANA affiliate is a good start. Looking for knife makers in your area and visiting their shop is another. As many have suggested reading is paramount too. There are ton's of books on this subject. IFI has a whole section dedicated to books. Some are cheap, some can be found on the internet legally for free, others can be very expensive. The Library loan program like Glenn suggested is your friend here. Setting your parameters is next. You need to define whats acceptable and what's not. When some people on here see "historical methods" they are planning to go mining for ore and make their own steel. The only way you can set these parameters is by discovering what goes into making these items. Different materials, methods, tools, ect.. My advice is, if butted mail is acceptable, starting there. If you planned on making riveted mail, making butted mail first will give you many of the skills to accomplish that. In the meanwhile learn as much as you can to be able to set the parameters for the other pieces.
  14. Looking really good. Toggle Arms, and the pins for the springs can be made from mild steel (c1018) or 4140.
  15. CMS3900

    Hello All

    Hey Walkure, Welcome Aboard. You're located in a pretty good spot for Blacksmithing. The Blacksmith's Guild of Central Maryland is located in Westminster not too far from you and is a really good group. They offer classes pretty regularly and have open forging nights. MASA on the eastern shore is a good group too. There actually is a show not too far from you in Perryville, MD on Oct 20th at Matt Harris Metalsmith Studio. It's a great show with great demonstrators, usually some tailgating, and good food. It's free to get in, they just ask you to bring something for iron in the hat. PM for more details if interested. FWIW I think that's a nice striking anvil. I think there is some confusion in this thread over a striking anvil and its uses versus the normal advice given to folks using metal to make a shop anvil.