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About CMS3900

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    Senior Member

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    Townsend, Delaware
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, Knifemaking, Firearms from flint to modern, machining, history, and sailing

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  1. Maximum stroke length

    1. The cylinder doesn't have to fully retract each time you want to stop applying power. It's really dependent on how you plumb the system. 2. The simplest way to plumb it so it won't have to retract all the way is to use a regular hydraulic valve. You pull the lever, it comes down (or up if the cylinders on the bottom), squish, and then pull the lever till it's backed off enough to move the part and then repeat. There are other ways with limit switches ect.. to set the retraction height as well but that gets into more money. 3. Having a longer cylinder is a advantage over many presses, not a disadvantage. You can keep more of the rod inside the cylinder which makes the rod less likely to bend or flex during side loading, which can occur depending on your press design or where on the dies you are pressing. I think my cylinders are 24" long, and I plan on making my "press zone" about half of that, so half of the rod will always remain in the cylinder. 4. Consider that you want your work at a comfortable height, and design the press to accommodate it. Check out Randy McDaniels Press on youtube, and if you can get your hands on his book it goes over a lot of the basics. Also, look at a bunch of presses and find a good interchangeable die system you can fabricate.
  2. About to start my smiting adventure

    Since I am in DE, I've never been to one, but hear it's a good time. The shop is fully equipped. Bring what ever tools you prefer and your project, but there are tongs and hammers and tools there to use. I think there's 5? coal forges in there. Each station has a anvil and a post vise. If it's something your interested in go on their website and reach out to the President, Ted McNett and he can point you in the right direction. The cost of dues is paltry compared to the experience earned and cool people you will meet. They usually have blacksmith coal for sale at meetings but check with Ted on that.
  3. About to start my smiting adventure

    Blacksmith Guild of Central MD. There based out of the Carrol County Farm Museum. I am a member, and their Blacksmith Days in May is a excellent event. Even if you prefer the school of hard knocks, just having some people to call or come over when you get in a jam helps. The tailgating at events is a plus too. They also have open forge nights. For small batch charcoal the easiest is just get a fire pit near your forge and build a fire. When you have a nice bed of coals transfer it to the forge and add more wood to the fire.
  4. About to start my smiting adventure

    Hey Beaumont, welcome to the forums. There are a bunch of good blacksmithing groups in MD. Where in MD are you?
  5. How do I keep a fuller straight?

    I don't know of anywhere to buy one off hand. Most are in-house made and a lot of the ones I have seen use a carbide tipped lathe bit for the cutter, profiled to what kind of fuller your looking for.
  6. How do I keep a fuller straight?

    A lot of folks use a tool like that to set the initial fuller and scrape the fuller cold with a fixture to the final dimensions. Google fuller scraper and you should find some pictures.
  7. Tooling up for twists

    There are factory machines out there that do twists and ones people have made. Most of them are on the large side for doing architectural and pattern welded work. You said pendants so I would think your working on the smaller side. I would look at pictures of these machines and see if you couldn't make something similar but on a smaller scale. Most of the ones I have seen have a chuck and a motor to drive one side and the other side just has to hold the stock so there are many different types of solutions. The "dead" side is on a sliding track for different lengths of stock.
  8. The downside is it doesn't use the standard thermocouple probe jack with the two flat terminals, so if you got a good thermocouple in the future you would have to rewire it. I bought a K type dual illuminated readout from amazon that takes two standard thermocouple connectors for 20$ off amazon a while back, and compared it to my Omega Engineering readout and it was within tolerance. Now the Omega is back in my toolbox where the likelihood of it being melted is low lol.
  9. I love my 33. It hits hard, and the new heavy series hammers have a longer stroke for better use of tooling. I haven't had any real issues with it. When I first got it the tup wasn't retracting all the way so I switched to ISO 32 oil (10wt) and haven't had a issue since. James is also top notch for support if you need it.
  10. Just crank the oiler and run it, it shouldn't take that long. There's no drain on the bottom of mine that I see. It's been so long since I changed mine over I can't remember if I pulled the bottom sight glass out or what I did.
  11. dove tails

    Shapers do certain jobs really well and faster than a mill, but they take a bit of skill to use. The mill is like a swiss army knife of utility, and you will probably get more general use out of one than a shaper. I use a mill to cut dovetails only because I have a mill and I haven't found a cheap enough shaper in the size I want. A angle vise is what I use to hold the die, with a carbide insert cutter.
  12. Just a scrap of 0-1 i had lying around

    I think he means is the antler hollowed out to the pommel and the tang extends, curved, through the whole length of the antler to the pommel or is it just a stub into the first third of the antler.
  13. Blue Moon Press has the book new for 45$
  14. The Kern book has a ton of good info in it. Well worth the purchase price. If you can upload a wider shot of the front of the hammer from the bottom die to the crank plate it would give a lot more to worth with. Also, the height of the top and bottom die and the length of the spring uncompressed.
  15. Forge length

    Hey Fish, After reading what your trying to this is my opinion. Your trying to do three things at once: Billets, HT, and normal forging. Each of these to be successful to a point need to be designed for the process. Billets: A vertical blown forge is king for this because you have less to worry about with flux destroying your forge as it drops harmlessly to the bottom which is usually filled with cat litter. Look at Bruce Bump, Jason Knight, ect.. and there using a vertical "Don Fogg" style forge. Some smiths like Ed Caffrey use a vertical that has a cast liner which is slower to heat but a lot more durable. There are two very reputable turn-key vertical setups out there around your $500 price range. PM me for links. Normal Forging: Several bladesmiths have told me for normal forging all you need is a forge big enough to stick the work in. You could forge in a vertical forge as well. Heat treating: If you only plan on using basic knife steels then a forge will do the job. Even a forge smaller than the blades length will work moving it back and forth. The coal forge with some techniques will allow you to use the same process to HT longer blades too. However; anything that requires a specific soak time at a specific temperature is very tricky to do without a oven. For further consideration, the cost of a large HT oven or forge vs. the times you will need it might not make sense at this point. It might be worth the dollars to send large pieces out to be HT, which would open you up to use more than basic knife steels. My suggestion would be get a good K type thermocouple (omega or similar), a long one that you could stick in your coal forge if need be, and a read out (amazon).