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I Forge Iron


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    Townsend, Delaware
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, Knifemaking, Firearms from flint to modern, machining, history, and sailing

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  1. In the world of CNC machining, I add in time to very job to verify the integrity of the customers drawing if it is complex. We have had dimensioned drawings from engineers needing ISO certified parts that submitted drawings where angles were wrong or did not intersect and lines didn't meet. CAD drawings received in CAD format are usually "dirty" and have to be reviewed and cleaned up before using. The CAM software hates lines on lines and non-intersecting lines, so most of the time you end up redrawing the customers drawing. I took a couple of semesters toward a Civil Engineering degree and the CAD we did in those classes drove me insane. The engineers with the degree's teaching made me wonder if they thought that walls, floors, and ceilings contained the same internal quality as doctor who's phone booth and a electrician, plumber, or HVAC guy had unlimited space to shove stuff in them. I have a few friends in the electrical trades and they tell me all the time about change orders where the print is messed up, or the print telling them conduit should go through someplace where a structural steel beam is occupying. From what they say it amazes me how a print on a job goes from "that's how we need it done" to "They're more like guidelines anyway, as long as I have the devices I want in the right places".
  2. If you haven't seen them check out the Stagmer Brother's (at Baltimore Knife and Sword) videos on youtube underneath "Man at Arms - Reforged". You will see a bunch of these grinders with various attachments to give you an idea of what these things really can do.
  3. Shop around, call the different suppliers and talk to their technical departments. See what looks best. Jlp, I would love for my LWS to give me a $500 sample of 10 lbs of 460 lol. While we buy a lot and have a great relationship with them, I haven't seen many samples. Norton Abrasives on the other hand sent me about $1000 in samples at one point, a ton of Norax and Merit belts and hand stones. Their rep also gave me this sharpening stone set in nice individual covered wood boxes. Needless to say I use Norton for all my belts and stones now.
  4. I would call Esab and tell them what you have and they can give a good recommendation. The 4-60 while expensive, welds really nice. It has nickle in it, but is totally different than E99 or Ni-Rod.
  5. Such a interesting piece. I have never seen a LG built like that. The ram guide is very interesting, and there is no adjustment at the cross head. I have no clue where the SN would be on it. Usually they were cast into the frame on later models. The 250 is a "S" model so the SN should start with a S. On my old style P model, there were also patent dates stamped into the ram. If you end up having to re-pour the bearings one upgrade I highly recommend is replacing the babbitt bearing in the friction pulley with a bearing bronze one. It will last a lot longer, and that bearing is really the hardest one to pour because it should be machined afterward. If it were me, I would strip the machine down and sand blast it, then with just the frame go through the process to weld the cracks right. My go-to rod for repairs like this is Allstate 4-60. You might find more stamping or info under all the coats of grease and paint.
  6. Sweet. If it had nine new belts for it, for that price you bought some new belts and got one of the best grinders out there for free.
  7. A steel post going up above the hammer with the electric motor and pulleys mounted on it makes for shorter drive belt length. I would increase the diameter of the V belt pulleys as well. A 2" pulley is really small, harsh radius that can lead to premature belt wear depending on the type of belt your using. Making the drive side flat belt pulley out of wood should be totally fine. hitnmiss.com carries flat belt if you're looking for that too.
  8. That is a really, really good deal. Buy it now. Bader Space Saver, 132 inch belt. That's the grinder production shops use over 2x72's, a Cadillac of grinders. New is 5,200 bucks.
  9. Clean anvil with a cleaner that will remove all the dirt and oil without a residue. The liberally spray with CRC SP-400. Put wherever; check every 6 mo. or so.
  10. Glad to hear everything is good Frosty, and it is amazing that no fatalities or injuries have been reported. Before I decided to work full time for my family's machine shop, I was in the emergency management field so I automatically look at this from a case study perspective. To me, it is amazing to see how a area handles disaster when preparedness is a way of life vs. not even a consideration. In college I polled about 150 students about how long after a disaster they expected someone to show up with a bottle of water and a blanket for them. The majority said within 4 hours post incident.
  11. You can buy Urethane rod in what ever duro you need, say 85-90 shore A. MSC lists up to 3 inch and call for custom sizes. I would give them a call and see what a 12 inch piece of 6" diameter would cost, or if they have something else that would work.
  12. I'm going to ask, why a vulcanizer instead of using off the shelf pourable urethane or machining urethane rod? The vulcanizer will be more OEM but man that seems like an investment.
  13. Hey Jon, To help you better as well can we get a little history on the hammer. How long have you owned it? When was it manufactured? How much run time do you think is on it? What type of oil do you run in it? When did you first start noticing this issue? Where are these air leaks coming from?
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