Power Hammers, Treadle Hammers, Olivers

Now that I finnaly have my first power hammer I of course am looking at which my next one will be and liked what I saw from iron kiss hammers, except I cohkdbt find them for sale (new) anywhere and their site isn't there anymore, are they still around or did something happen? Thanks Noel

I look weekly for hammers to come up for sale on craigslist etc... that are within driving distance for me, saw one in a Phoenix Craigslist add and made contact. The hammer is actually in Idaho... just north of Boise. Outside of my driving range. The smith who owns it passed away, and the family, mainly the son, are more/less liquidating the shop. I believe asking price is about $6K. Normally I wouldn't post/share anything like this, but seeing as the son is a fellow Uniformed Serviceman, currently deployed in Turkey, I feel I should help him out, even though I don't know him. I cant find it in any Idaho listings, but if you look in the Phoenix Ar…

Hi, Can anyone who has built a Clay Spencer\Ray Clontz power hammer supply me with the lead offset wheel weight? I do not have any way to make the mold and melt the lead. I will happily pay for one! Thanks guys, Stitch

Playing around in my head with a bunch of ideas for a treadle hammer, and was thinking about making the head from a 9-10" length of 4" square tube I have kicking around, welding a thick plate on the end, and filling it with lead (melted down from wheel weights). Then I find that wheel weights aren't lead these days, so I start thinking about other sources of lead. Thinking about lead shot for reloaders, it occurs to me that if I filled the head with unmelted lead shot (perhaps with some oil as well), I would essentially be creating a large dead-blow mallet. This obviously wouldn't be good for a tire hammer or something like that, where you want to keep the tupp movin…

I'm making a set of new keys for my little giant/Murco power hammer and I have a question that some of you may be able to answer. The discussion provided on the Little Giant website for fitting new keys is excellent but it seems to me that this process of grinding and filing would be prohibitively time consuming for the original manufacturer. I have found several references on IFI for fitting keys using heat. One discussion suggests using a rose bud to heat small sections of the key and upsetting those portions of the key to fit the dovetail until the whole key is solid. Another thread mentioned just heating the key and driving it in the dovetail as long as the sides…

Or a treadle hammer, what ever you want to call it. I picked this up at auction a few weeks ago. Cleaned it up and got it back in use. The hammer weighs 28lbs. It hits quite hard and there is a reasonable amount of control. It needs a couple of bits sorting on it but on the whole I'm pretty chuffed with it. Here's a quick video on it running. Skip in a couple of minutes if you don't want the chat. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kVtLFndlG8k All the best Andy

The hammer is an 800 pound Williams and White self contained forging hammer, Bates design. I finally got the hammer pulled, transported and set off at my farm. The area it was in did not have enough head room for a traditional crane so I had to use a 60 ton Rotator crane. I must say they are an impressive machine (and priced accordingly). The hammer and anvil weigh a hair over 30000 pounds combined. For reference I am 6 feet tall. If anyone is contemplating a similar move let me tell you its not for the faint of heart! That said I'm glad I did it.

This a my new treadle hammer that I designed over a year ago and finally welded up recently. It's a straight line linkage type. The hammer weighs about 100 lbs and has a little over 16" of stroke.

Hello I recently acquired a 25# little giant and have a few questions. I've been doing a lot of reading but this is my first power hammer so I sure have a lot to learn. Here is the hammer From everything I have read it should be dripping in Oil, I am assuming that the below should be filled with oil? When I put oil in the front one I can tell its goes down but the lvl in this one doesn't seem to change. The hammer is set up with grease zerk fittings but one broke off and the threads are stripped can I just oil that location? I am thinking of just jbwelding a nipple in there as well. Also on the topic of grease, will any decent grease work …

Hello, all. I'm not looking to buy. Just getting that out there, haha. I'm in the process of Hoping to buy one, so no worries there. What I am looking for, however, is someone that has a 100# or 125# Bradley compact that's pretty well complete, or knows someone with one I could get in touch with that would be willing to let me study it; or possibly get me any information at all. The one I'm maybe buying is in pretty rough shape, so it would be Awesome to have access to one so I could figure out what it needs, measurements, etc. I live in NC, so maybe someone "local" might see this? Anyway, thanks to everyone that sees this, and to anyone that can help!

I picked up a Murco Power Hammer from a small town here in NM. I can find some of the evolution history from Little Giant to Mayer Bros to Moloch to Murray but not much else. I could use more information regard the brass bearings, grease requirements and in general some more info on its parts. The hammer doesn't appear to have been used much and is just dirty from having laid on the ground for the past few years. Every thing looks to be in excellent condition and it turns freely. Clutch works as it should. If anyone has one of these machines let me know. I attached a few photos.

I am designing a little giant style hammer similar to the DP hammers that move up and down the mast. i plan on building mine on a mast that is mounted in a box with gibs to raise and lower the height of the entire mast on the fly using a hydraulic 2 stage pump with a 5 horse electric motor with a cylinder connected to the mast and main frame. i can use the pump system to lift and lower the ram assembly and will run a smallish hydraulic press of the back of the unit with everything built into one animal. i want to setup the hammers flywheel drive using a hydraulic gear motor. Ive seen it done on another site where the fellow used a 6 cubic inch motor running an eccentric s…

Has anyone converted a Beaudry Champion hammer to air? any pics?

Ethan here, I have bought and all days and onions 1CTW Power Hammer And I am quite happy about it. It came off of an English war vessel, and the man who I am buying it from has rigged up a single phase system so that makes my life a lot easier but too the question: i've seen a lot of these power hammers put up on steel bases, and obviously that would be a good idea to increase the height. But I am wondering if, to save work, if I can simply do a raised concrete foundation that would come above the floor line maybe 6 inches. This is obviously a heavy cast-iron one piece hammer, so does it really need a heavy fabricated steel base underneath ? Anyway looking for…

How do folks, Can anyone recommend me a suitable steel to use as a "depth spacer" under my 25kg Anyang? E.g if I had a bit of 25mm (1") square bar that I wanted to forge down to 20mm (3/4") square I'd put a 20mm depth spacer on my bottom die so the bar couldn't be forged down to anything less than 20mm. I've heard of H13 and that it's good for punches & fullers, is that the sort of thing that would be good for my use? I'm more of an artist than blacksmith and know virtually nothing about tool steels. I don't really want to be forging/hardening/tempering my own depth spacers from some sort of tractor axle that I'm never going to find, I just want to…

I am putting together a 25 lb little giant trip hammer new style I believe and the tension spider is coming off the shaft. It looks like there are threads where the shaft attaches to the spider. I am wander if I am missing a part that attaches the spider to the shaft and how the spider attaches to the shaft. I was thinking about hitting the spider with a rubber hammer to move it further on the shaft, but I don't want to break anything

Hi all! I'm new here, I was pointed here from another forum. I'm a young knifemaker from Finland that would need some help getting my airhammer running as it should. For about a year ago I bought a new power hammer, a beché 65 kg, and yesterday I was able to run it for the first time. There was a big problem with hammer, the ram did not go up and idle at the top of the hammer cylinder as it should. It goes up and and down with a full stroke length hitting the bottom die every time. It does not hit the bottom very hard but it hits it. I did not find any obvious causes to the problem but will take a closer look at it today. I had a similar problem with my other…

Due to changes in my living situation, I've had to take a step back from smithing. As I look to the future, I'm trying to determine how my forge will change, and what I want in it. I know I'll get a Nimba Anvil, as they are manufactured about 2 hours away from me. But I also want to get a power hammer. I've never owned one, so that is where my question comes from. which type of power hammer to get? I have time to save up money to buy a good one. What I need to know is which type to get, Mechanical or pneumatic? Pro's and con's to both? And I figured this thread would be a good memorial for others in the future who have the same question. I want to get int…

I am in the process of assembling an old 35# Modern power hammer. It seems to be all there, and it looks like it is fairly straight forward. There is one thing that I am puzzled about. This power hammer has two large pillow blocks that sit on top of the head. These blocks have 2 by about 8 inch cut outs that allow a 2 inch block to slide inside the cut out. there is one on either side, and the pivot shaft runs through these 2 inch blocks. With the pivot arm in place this allows the fulcrum to be adjustable. So far this all makes sense, and after cleaning everything up it all fits together nicely. This is my concern, near the rear of both pillow blocks is a groove o…

So I got the itch to build a power hammer. Anyone in vermont or near plattsburgh build one? I would love to pick your brain. I could bring you donuts.

Guys, this is my first power hammer I finally test run. It's an early 50 lb Little Giant. Watching the slow motion video I noticed the toggle link on the adjustable side striking the ram. Is there something that needs adjusting or replaced? Any help appreciated. Reese IMG_6199.MOV I can't seem to attach the video.

Well, I found my new hammer. 100# ( or so) Williams power hammer with a different hammer assembly from best I can tell. Just need to dig her out. Tried it out and it seems to be very responsive. Thoughts? Information? Im planning on selling my homemade leaf spring hammer if anyone in southern michigan is interested. PM me. Picture of leaf spring hammer Picture of leaf spring hammer

Just got a hammer for my shop at the museum ! Its a macgowan and finnigan perfect power hammer. It was built between 1903 and 1906 so it fits what i am trying to do (trying to keep this shop as around 1910) Got to set up a line shaft for it .. and its gona take some cleaning and maintenance but... it was running so YA I got a hammer again!

Anyone know of any power hammer build workshops in the northeast this summer? I would love to attend one.

so i have been looking at a treadle hammer for our first power hammer so that we don't have to keep beating our arms to death so im gonna make a foot operated version first and then upgrade to the gas powered when i get a chance if i can engineer it and if your wondering why im going with gas well its because i don't want to use power, and i don't have a big fancy 60 gallon two stage air compressor but i do have a 5 gallon one, so using a harbor freight engine and some engineering i will make a gas powered hammer, now since all of you are way more experience in this department and mine is some what in the motor department, so i have looked at this design but i have no ac…