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About arftist

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    New England


  • Location
    New England

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  1. arftist

    welding 44w to a415

    I would use MG 600. It is the only wire I can think of that will definitely work. If you have some scrap pieces you could experiment with 309 stainless which might also work and would be much cheaper.
  2. Check with a forklift repair company.
  3. arftist

    When to start signing your work

    When you can make your own touchmark.
  4. arftist

    Drill bit lubricant

    Guess you never heard of a cold air gun for drilling and milling. Too bad whoever edited this didn't leave the relevant portion. It would not have been an issue if you edited the quote yourself
  5. arftist

    Soften - Harden.

    Bend them hot, which is likely the only way they will bend anyways, then use them as is, they will still be plenty tough.
  6. arftist

    Excentric press to power hammer ?

    No. A hammer need not complete it's stroke by design. A punch press must. Not to say that it couldn't be set up to do something to metal, it most certainly can but the key is "set up" . In other words the press must be set exactly to the job required. Improper setup will lead to press destruction. By the way, that is a very small press.
  7. arftist

    Fly press screw stopper

    Robert, that is indeed a hard stop. Both of my flypresses have them. OP, sorry about the inconvenience but if you don't have a collar stop on the screw, you must resort to kiss blocks
  8. arftist

    I'm a brazing failure

    Lots of issues here. A few facts; silver brazing (also correctly know as silver soldering or hard soldering) as mentioned, melts at at least 800 degrees. The term "joints" has been thrown about, however there is no such thing as a butt joint for soldering. There is a welding joint known as a butt weld. If one had access to a TIG, one could TIG weld the joint with brass or preferably silicon bronze rod. However, the material is very thin for welding. Finally, there are silver bearing solders that melt at lower temperatures ( below 600 F.) I recommend the use of just such a solder. Soldering is easy when done correctly, yet impossible to do when not done correctly. To the OP, something is only considered doable when it can be done repeatedly. Since you can't recreate your beginner's luck, it is you that is incorrect, not Frosty. Frosty has forgotten more than you will ever know.
  9. I was a machinist in a blacksmith shop with a fair amount of work. In the year I spent there I made at least three sets of dies and they already had many. Yes, you can do a lot with hand held tooling and flat dies, but if you want to make a lot of pieces fast and have them be good, then special tooling pays. I do 90% of my work with just combo dies which is why I like them so much, but for some jobs I must be able to change dies to be profitable.
  10. How did you figure the flow for proper grain orientation?
  11. Do you do any commercial work Jarntag? Ever do anything heavy enough to require two hands on the stock? There are infinite reasons why quick change dies are a good idea, unless one owns a row of hammers.
  12. arftist

    1045 uses

    Not available at all locations and expensive to install.
  13. arftist

    1045 uses

    If it needs new windings it isn't worth it. The easiest way to get three phase is with a static converter, around $100. The next easiest is a rotary phase converter, big bucks and you may have to add a circuit or a panel. The third way is to create a third leg by spinning a three face motor with a 1/2 hp single phase motor and regulating the output with a static phase converter. Wiring instructions come with the static phase converter. There are two other methods as well but I will leave it to the licenced fellows to decide whether to discuss them here or not.
  14. I truly doubt you can get a 90 cubic foot per minute air compressor for 1000 pounds. More like 3-4 times that. Other thoughts, You can still get parts for a Massey. You likely can't even get a new o ring for the Russian hammer. In my humble opinion neither is suitable. Of course I am biased towards mechanical hammers. The self-contained would be better if only it were not made in Russia, but the Massey is a better made hammer. Clear as mud?
  15. First and foremost: A post or leg vise is designed for hammering ( downward and against the back leg whenever possible.) They are specifically NOT designed for twisting. Twisting is the job for a heavy machinists vice (which conversely should not be hammered upon[ except very lightly or upon a very heavy vise {at least 100 pounds }]). This is not to say the light stock can't be twisted in a leg vise, of course it can, but it is a bad habit, IMHO My number one post vise is mounted to a plate welded to the top of a 5 inch pipe, 8 feet long. 5 feet of said pipe is sunk into a 5 foot deep pit filled with concrete and the pipe is filled as well, to the top. Ridiculous overkill you say? I can still flex it. 6 inch pipe would have been much better. I also have a massive machinists vise on a shelf welded to the same pipe. Here I twist as much as 2" square solid steel. In the almost 25 years since I mounted these vises they have never been in each other's way, nor have I wished the post were elsewhere. Key: The key to mounting things to a slab is as follows. Drill all the way through the slab. If you ever wish to be rid of the bolts drive them through the slab and plug the holes with hydraulic cement. Note that a tool which doesn't work is useless. A final aside, even a small (2 inch) pipe vise is better for twisting than a post vise.