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I Forge Iron


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About arftist

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    New England


  • Location
    New England

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  1. Weld it up ad yu got a good deal; Larger post vises are going for huge bucks these days. Just make sure you get a price on the welding job, some people think their work is priceless. I would charge about fifty bucks to fix that as long as I didn't have to make any parts. This is what I get for not using the quote feature. My response is to the op. Marc Baldwin, I believe that box is cast iron. Could be wrong of course. Steel is unlikely though.
  2. I did just think of a problem with the lead sandwich. Lead has zero elasticity. Eventually the lead will be forced out the sides. Suggest you weld flat bar across the seams.
  3. Frosty mine is a spring helve. The tup's true path is slightly elliptical with the lifting motion occuring as the tup is thrust upward...and forward. The motion is perpendicular to the motion of your LG.
  4. One of the problems with an unsecured hammer is that the tup or hammer itself can lift the entire hammer (slightly) on the upstroke. Mine, at 75# would walk towards you as you worked it. I solved this by bolting it down to a 6 inch commercial floor, with no apparent problems. My son is using it now and poured an 18 x 30 by 48 block for it, he say it works very well. Try the weight you have, chance are it will work good enough.
  5. Formerly known as an "old man", a very nice, adjustable bench lock down as has been mentioned.
  6. I would add that trying to rush art usually results in something being left that would have been changed. I agree 100% with Glenn as to design of a sheperd's hook except that I would use no additional hooks. FYI hammer skills are very important but are entirely different than design skills. I think what you are complaining about is your design abilities more than your blacksmith skills.
  7. I can bend 1/4x1/2 with my fingers. When you add the leverage of a door...
  8. I cut a keyway in the upper mount in the center (farthest from the door. I then fashion a pin (usually an allen head cap srew). In the down position the pin locks the bolt down. To open one must swing the bolt to align the pin with the keyway and lift, then lock it open by swinging the cane handle against the door. This is a pretty simple solution for me.
  9. What size is your stock? Small bars cool much faster, What size is your hammer? Too small hammers don't input much movement or heating energy. How large is your anvil? Small anvils don't reflect much energy. How well attached is your anvil? Loose anvils don't move much metal. How hard are you swinging your hammer? Light blows don't move much metal. How dark is your forging area? Forging areas should be dark to better judge the heat. Out in the sun doesn't work well at all.
  10. Take it to the welding supply and see if they will accept it in trade for an argon or oxygen if it is an owner size.
  11. You don't need to heat more than a few inches at a time. For me it is easier to make a nice curve incrementally. I wouldn't bother with the emt bender, instead make a jig with a pipe or solid round slice. Weld a stop Start your bend with either forge but finish it with the torch, easing the heat ahead while allowing the already bent part to cool, so it stays put. A large hammer is very helpful.
  12. There are 1000s of different certs. Around here a test is administered by an engineering firm. There is no way to know what cert you may (likely not) need. Certs only last for 6 months and unless you can provide proof that you have been employed using that exact cert during that time, then you must be recertified ( pay the at least $350) per cert. That you don't know any of this suggests you should get a job welding for a while. There is no end to the danger an unqualified welder can wreak upon innocent lives. Many good sized shops will help you get certified in the processes they use. That is honestly your best bet. FYI, the fellows I have seen who got certified on their own spent many months practicing every day, hour after hour.
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