• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About arftist

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    New England


  • Location
    New England

Recent Profile Visitors

15,749 profile views
  1. This is a good example of why reinventing the wheel is a waste of time for most people. For the best possible geometry the spring should lie flat...the rollers can be much tighter and the possibility of flinging the hammer out of the guide is nil.
  2. I have seen something very similar, maybe Basher?
  3. 2nd everything Marc said. I just picked up a Lincoln Square Wave 200. It runs on 110 or 220. It will weld bronze all day long, so I know it will weld aluminum (preheat required for thicker sections.) It is unlikely that I will ever use the 110 cord unless I have to do a small stainless repair in a commercial kitchen or something else requiring very little amps.
  4. Cut to the chase and change it to a flat belt. While you are at it, eliminate the speed reducer, it is way too slow to do any work at all. 350-400 blows per minute. I would also rearrange the geometry of the entire top of the hammer, balance out the spring so it has a chance to whip. The spring should come near the bottom of the stroke and still have 1-2" of free space between the dies.
  5. You are not going to get parallel side or even close in this manner.
  6. EDL, I did explain it and I stand by it still. Not the same. I can't force you to understand.
  7. You want to squish 2× 2 1/2 He was squishing 3/8 ×3 the easy way. No comparison.
  8. Repair the vise, obviously keep the cold saw, go up a motor size on the band saw and keep it too. Band saw is great for field work.
  9. Big difference between what you said you wanted to do and what he was doing.
  10. Tough one. Unless you replace the bottom thread too, you need the exact thread. My plan would be to bore out both from the back, then turn down two acme coupling nuts to round on the outside, but leave a .250 " shoulder at one end. Make a very light interference fit, cool the parts with dry ice and press them in from the back. For this much work it should be economical enough to hire. A good machine shop will ALWAYS price the work in advance, if not, go elsewhere.
  11. Is the regulator adjustable? Did you contact the maker? My big gasser (Johnson) works best running off 2 100# tanks.
  12. Mechanical hammers are cheaper to build unless you already have massive air supply. Mechanical hammers are much more efficient than air unless you buy self contained hammer. Self contained hammer is much too complicated than most home builders can handle. This question has been asked and answered here many times, search for more details. Tire hammers, the tire is just a simple but IMHO poor clutch. Spring helve hammers are simple to build, hit hard and are easier to tune. As to the last of your ideals, if your hammer is big enough to weld up a 2.5 inch billet, it is certainly going to require a big foundation. I would want a 100 pounds or so. On the other hand, a more right sized billet could be welded with a much smaller hammer. As to your press ideas, you are way off in your estimations. More like minimum 10 horse electric. The die must move fast as the work quickly cools as soon as it contacts. Instead of recycling incorrect parts consider cheaper sources or forget the plan and just use the hammer. FYI many folks are doing Damascus welding in a properly sized press.
  13. In theory practice and theory are the same. In practice they are not. Mainely Bob The difference in velocity between 172.5 bpm and 475 bpm is almost is almost 3-1 regardless. Then when you cut the stroke in half you again diminish the velocity by almost half. Just for discussion sake. FYI 1.5 hp is plenty for you to run a 30 at full stroke and speed. One thing you may not be aware of. When working heavy stock one needs to hit hard enough to move more than just the surface. Otherwise piping, fishmouthing, cold shuts and other issues can occur, so no, the same amount of work is not necessarily done. The other difference between hand forging and power forging is that a properly striking hammer will keep the work hot. So much energy should go into the work that the work is heated, which greatly increases the amount of work one cab perform in a given time. My master has demonstrated making a 3 " ball in a single heat. Since the joy is in the journey, carry on merrily. At my age it is more important to me to build a machine which fires right out of the gate, so I researched until I found all the known knowns and utilized them in my hammer build. I see that you are on a different path, to each his own and more power to you.
  14. Well, it will reduce the acceleration of your tup by almost half. Since force is crudely acceleration squared x mass and since you are running your hammer very slowly it will strike with very little force. 25 pound hammers usually run at 400-475 bpm. Even my 75 # runs at 220 and should be faster.
  15. Why did you go with a 2 inch crank offset? 3.5 is what most hammers use. Marcus B, your anvil isn't hollow and has at least a 20 to one anvil to tup ratio.