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I Forge Iron


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About arftist

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    New England


  • Location
    New England

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  1. Cold forging on any anvil is a bad plan. If you must do this, buy a chunk of steel instead of throwing good money after bad.
  2. Way easier faster and healthier to forge rather than grind. Make a blacksmith's taper gauge, exactly as drawn in the second post. Use it to check the angle as you hand forge the pickets. I use adjustable gauges that I make myself but for such a small job I would just weld 3 bits of steel together. Also, best not to learn hammer and tong control at the same time. Stock long enough to hold by hand.
  3. Resistance to forming would be the big issue. Instead, cut out an appropriate shape and use it as a welded in bit. You will not be able to sharpen it with a file in the field but your edge will stay sharp for a long time.
  4. 304-316 is best worked at near white heat.
  5. It isn't cast iron. 7018 Will work fine, 6010 will work but not as easy as 7018.
  6. What was he doing that you felt was unsafe with a flap wheel?
  7. JY; that is why a heating torch should be constantly moving.
  8. Induction coils can be customized to very precise small heats and much faster than a torch.
  9. Black Creek Cast iron
  10. Main selling point is that they are not made from grey cast iron but rather they are made from ductile iron. I will leave it you to figure out the difference. The second selling point is the fully enclosed screw. Both point lead to better longevity and indeed they are the best and most expensive vises on the market.
  11. Ashman; you need to send all the flux off but it is not needed to get all the solder off. I would sand till you can see some brass through the solder.
  12. Most chucks can be removed by a pair of wedges which can be purchased from a machinery supplier.
  13. Using a drill press mount work securely. Drill 1/64" underside hole. Ream. You may find acceptable results from simply using a new drill bit.
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