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About arftist

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    New England


  • Location
    New England

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  1. DuPont style hammers will work with a slack belt clutch. I know of one rigged that way, so, yes you can make it run.
  2. Do not try to modify the regulator, just buy an adapter.
  3. arftist

    Cast Iron Kettle

    Lot's of good ways to fix cast iron, knowing what you use it for would help.
  4. arftist

    Is this top Fuller repairable

    Mushrooming of the struck end of tools is more from lack of maintenance...a soft pad on the end will mushroom even faster and mushrooms lead to shrapnel. Preventative grinding means making the struck end look like the lower segment of a cone then also creating a small radius at the very end. I could fix that tool far quicker than I could build a new one. All that said, a hammer head is so easy to anneal. Note that I am not advocating a harder struck end, just trying to add complete info.
  5. arftist

    Antique Bender??

    That does one(1) of hundreds of bends the hossfeld will do. I make most of my own dies (some are so cheap from hossfeld and so hard to make that they are not worth making) I have made dies for 1" OD thin wall stainless tubing up to 2" pipe and 1)2" by 3" edgewise (hard way). My tube and pipe dies will bend to a tighter radius than factory dies without flattening, because of a very simple modification I figured out. Anyone can figure it out if they think on it enough, since there is very little room for change in a pipe die I have made scroll and c-scroll dies when I need a bunch and want them perfect. The hossfeld is the most versatile bender available.
  6. arftist

    Antique Bender??

    Joel, if you are getting spirals you are not inserting the stock "planarally". If the stock is inserted at right angles to the frame it cannot twist...I often run a hossfeld with a helper. My hossfeld, which I built myself, is one of the most used tools in my shop. I had formal training on it, which took the mystery out of it initially, BUT, on the rare occasion (very rare) that I have a problem, I call Hossfeld and they will spend however long needed, however many phone calls to set me straight. Please, before bad mouthing one of the most elegant, beautifully engineered systems available, learn to use it properly. If you find your #2 to be " bendy and twisty" the problem is you, not the hossfeld. Sorry to be so direct but that is just the truth. When used properly there is no twisting.
  7. Note the mention of the Henrob torch. Never seen cast rods welded with regular torch.
  8. Definitely best to have your anvil 13 inches thick. Not much point otherwise.
  9. arftist

    Fontanini vs Nimba

    Hi Mike. There is a comparison thread already. Kudos to you, be an American, buy American. Both are great anvils, both made from the same alloy. (Early Fontanini anvils were made from H13, almost ridiculous overkill unless one solely worked stainless.) The Fontanini has a couple extra features, the prices are very similar but one can buy an unfinished Fontanini and save a couple hunge.
  10. arftist

    Cast iron

    Braze away Rene
  11. Great job! Frosty once said my hammer was "a real beefeater" but yours has mine beat hands down. Love the 1200# anvil...totally awesome. You done well son, and I appreciate that my design was inspiring for you. Would love to see those vids.
  12. arftist

    Shop Class?

    Have to agree with Biggun, Never seen a set of plans calling for 10-24 that wasn't improved by changing it to 10-32. When I was in Highschool we had two Delta Unisaws, one with a dado blade. Fellow cut the tip of his thumb off his junior year on the table saw. No lawsuit, he knew HE screwed up. Next year same fellow cut the tip of his other thumb off in the dado saw. Same ambulance ride, same self responsibly, no law suit. Shame on this litigious society. A final thought on tapping; Most of the called out tap drill sizes are TOO SMALL. They would work well in free maching brass or dead soft steel and are calculated to provide about 70% thread. A quick google search will bring up a " theoretical percentage of thread" chart. Using such, one can figure the best tapdrill to use by considering the following variables; hardness of material being tapped. Aluminum can be tapped safely at 75% thread, stainless steel should be around 40% Thickness of material especially compared with tap diameter. A 1/4 nut is a 1/4 inch thick. A half inch nut is a half inch thick. Material thicker that the diameter of the tap can be threaded with a lower % of thread, thinner should have a higher percent. In general 50% thread is the most that is required so most specs are wrong and have you drilling too small a hole and breaking taps. Again this is especially important with stainless steel and other hard to tap metals.
  13. Triangular drill bit, cuts a square hole. Grey cast iron is essentially free machining, much easier than steel..
  14. My thought as well.