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About arftist

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  • Location
    New England


  • Location
    New England

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  1. Cast iron

    Braze away Rene
  2. Great job! Frosty once said my hammer was "a real beefeater" but yours has mine beat hands down. Love the 1200# anvil...totally awesome. You done well son, and I appreciate that my design was inspiring for you. Would love to see those vids.
  3. Shop Class?

    Have to agree with Biggun, Never seen a set of plans calling for 10-24 that wasn't improved by changing it to 10-32. When I was in Highschool we had two Delta Unisaws, one with a dado blade. Fellow cut the tip of his thumb off his junior year on the table saw. No lawsuit, he knew HE screwed up. Next year same fellow cut the tip of his other thumb off in the dado saw. Same ambulance ride, same self responsibly, no law suit. Shame on this litigious society. A final thought on tapping; Most of the called out tap drill sizes are TOO SMALL. They would work well in free maching brass or dead soft steel and are calculated to provide about 70% thread. A quick google search will bring up a " theoretical percentage of thread" chart. Using such, one can figure the best tapdrill to use by considering the following variables; hardness of material being tapped. Aluminum can be tapped safely at 75% thread, stainless steel should be around 40% Thickness of material especially compared with tap diameter. A 1/4 nut is a 1/4 inch thick. A half inch nut is a half inch thick. Material thicker that the diameter of the tap can be threaded with a lower % of thread, thinner should have a higher percent. In general 50% thread is the most that is required so most specs are wrong and have you drilling too small a hole and breaking taps. Again this is especially important with stainless steel and other hard to tap metals.
  4. Triangular drill bit, cuts a square hole. Grey cast iron is essentially free machining, much easier than steel..
  5. My thought as well.
  6. Beginner steel stock

    Frankly you will have much more fun with 3/8"s or 1/2". 1/4" has so little mass that it only holds a heat for a few seconds, You will spend all your time reheating unless you hit it extremely hard and fast, not exactly beginner skills.
  7. Beginner steel stock

    Take along a hack saw. The 12 foot bars are cold rolled. Don't think anyone supplies hot rolled 1/4"
  8. stainless question

    Yup, ideally, since a panel is hard to quench. if it is just fabbed and welded then you can get away with acid passivation of the welds alone. Another option is a good sand blasting with clean, new blasting media but obviously leaves a dull finish. Sorry I read project as panel. While we all know it will not happen, S.S. should be worked in a seperate room than iron. At least do the best you can keep the stainless and the area clean from iron filings and dust. This includes but is not limited to covering steel benchs. (I use an aluminum bench for all stainless except commercial work) Lining saw tables with tape or leather or vinal or plastic Use only new saw blades and especially only abrasives. Tape up clamp pads or use protective scrap be it wood plastic or aluminum. Especially important, do not grind or sand iron while your stainless job is in progress or even still in your shop.
  9. stainless question

    Stainless doesn't scale, scale is oxidation. Stainless in other languages is inox or nonox. I was specifically discussing austenic grades of stainless which have very low levels of carbon and unlike martinetic grades, cannot be hardened. Stil I am surprised you have never heard that before. As usual you are correct Sir
  10. Upsetting width to thickness limits

    Dude, you know so little that it is ridiculous to attempt a sword. Firstly try a simple upsett in mild steel. When you realize how extremely difficult it is you will throw away your scrap leaf springs right away and buy stock the correct thickness. NEVER USE USED LEAF SPRING FOR ANYTHING OTHER THAN WEAR PLATES Don't care how much time you have, not enough time in the world to die young from stubbornness. The main give away is your concept that the hard part is keeping it straight. That is the easy part. Straightening is a skill you clearly don't have yet it is the most basic of skills. What you are proposing is possible but barely so. When our boss (Glen) says buy new, just buy new or don't do the project.
  11. stainless question

    Is it magnetic? Ifso, likely 17-4. Nonmagnetic; likely 18-8. Foodservice, could be 316 17-4 *can* be welded but must be properly normalized after. 18-8 is the general purpose grades and goes something like this; 304 for general anti-corrosive work, corrosion resistance in sea-water above the waterline 316 corrosion resistant in seawater below the waterline. Very hard to move by hand hammer. Should be worked at near white heat. To restore anti corrosion property, quench in clean freah water from an orange heat or passivate with acid or polish with new clean consumables or electropolish. If you can cut a small sample off and you have a high end junk yard near you, they can analyze it for you, probably for free.
  12. country specific forged item

    And you are entitled to it but consider that we are all different! My interest in blacksmithing is primarily to preserve the technology....that it not become a lost art. Is my interest somehow destroying the art? Your interest is seemingly in making useful a Smithy. To each his own.
  13. Cleaning/polishing complicated pieces

    Tumbler is pretty much the go to.
  14. Thoughts on 25 lb anvil?

    Not an anvil. Good bookstop.
  15. Agree with McPherson; you can't hurt junk. Torch or gouge out the cracks, weld with 70 series MIG of at least 250 amps. Use CO2 to help deal with the silica inclusions. Way faster than grinding, stick welding.