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About arftist

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    New England


  • Location
    New England

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  1. No reason to tear it down. It looks small in the pictures, probably a Morse taper #3 could be a two. Mount the motor to the floor next to the large vee belt pulley. This will require bolting the drill press to the floor too and is the simplest most common way. You could alternatively make a bracket on the floor, bolted to the drill press if you don't want to bolt the whole machine down. 2 phase 220 motors run fine on "single phase" 220. If you think about it, the only single phase is 110. 2 phases of 110 give 220. Alternatively it would also run on 2 legs of 3 phase.
  2. Switch to 10-32 1/4 -28 would be even better. Use gun style raps Go up a size on your tap drill Drill your tap hole twice as deep. Drive your tap in only half as far. Use only taper taps. Use Tap Free or other high performance tapping lube. Realise that you may only be able to tap 10 or 12 holes before the tap is dull.
  3. 3.5 inch crank offsett for a 7" stroke. An inch of free space between the dies is good minimum but you should have enough adjustment for tools as well.
  4. Under $3 /lb is a fair price if it is in decent shape. FYI chipped edges on a Peter Wright is fairly meaningless since they have extra hard top plates. I would be much more concerned with delamination of the top plate. To the OP, a little sway is a good thing IMHO.
  5. Things that are a given; Round wheels work best. Fire is hot. Hollow anvils are a joke. Same with hammers. Static load engineering is USELESS when working with dynamic loading. The simple fact is that your useless anvil post can be simply remedied. Determine what combination of flat bars (thickness) will fill the spaces between your H beam flanges. Acquire them. Weld into place. Why put so much effort into making junk?
  6. Non-magnetic stainless would make a dive knife useless for anything but stabbing sharks. I would want a knife that can cut.
  7. To be clear, the shaper Biggun Dr is talking about is not a cabinet mount machine like the collector are all drooling over these days, but rather a massive cast iron machine, heavier than a Bridgeport and requiring every bit as much space. If there can be only one, choose the mill. Edit, I once bought a 24" shaper for $25. I backed my truck up to it and took the vise and left the 10,000 plus pound shaper for the scrap guys.
  8. Not even about RPMs though that is critical as well...the big issue is lack of rigidity. Cold saws are massive castings not pressed sheet metal. Cold saws blades cannot bend while cutting, they break. NOTHING wrong with a large abrasive saw. Use it for what it is designed for; hardened tool steels and thin walled material which should never go in a band saw.
  9. The first thing you should forge is some iron straps to replace the "plumbers tape". To find the delaminated part of the faceplate, sprinkle sand on the top. The sand will not bounce in the afflicted area when the anvil is lightly hammered on.
  10. I disagree that welding any anvil will improve it...except an already hopeless case. Especially just to build up edges.
  11. Research tilt up concrete walls. Way efficient. Your bags will each hold over a yard of concrete, no economy there.
  12. Arkie it would only be a straight line if the surface was straight.
  13. Tell that to everyone who has an upsetting vise, bolt heading vise or foot operated vise.
  14. This is the answer right here. Collected anvil are in safe storage. Considering the number of anvils which have been sold to junkyard, shipped to China and come back as can openers, collector's are doing us a service.
  15. Anvil, that is a pile of round bar. Everyone agrees, round to square then back to round. This discussion however, is about square bar.