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About HojPoj

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    Senior Member

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  • Location
    Newport News, VA
  • Interests
    3D printing, welding, machining, casting, electronics, firearms

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  1. Got a few hours today in what seems like forever. Made a couple fire pokers because I needed one for my fire pit- was playing around with twisting the tip since forge welding isn't something I'm able to do at this point in time. Also made a couple bottle openers and hooks, though one isn't pictured since i gave it away.
  2. Recently found a 100 lb. Hunk of steel at the scrapyard. Will be far more manageable than the other giant hunk o stuff I have. The are two shallow 1/2" threaded holes in it that should aid in manipulating it for use on-end or on its side for striking. Forgot to measure it, though... d'oh!
  3. That's where I do most of the work, I rounded off the corners there, and stay away from the rest in order to preserve the sharper corners for when I need 'em.
  4. For mine, my best guess is that they are induction hardened since the outer skin is hard, but dents fairly easily.
  5. Mine is a 66 lb version of what you have, I am aware of the space limitations. It may just be that your current ones are too stiff at the top, hence the suggestion to thin the arm out a bit. I made mine from something that was 5/8 inch Diameter for a 3/4 inch hole, and when it sticks I pick the anvil and stand up by it... it occasionally it doesn't stick and has to be smacked a few times before it works.
  6. Though if you want to try and salvage what you have, I would suggest flattening the arm section (or draw it out a bit more) so that it's a bit more flexible, this may help create more of the side force necessary to hold it in place.
  7. Oh definitely. I only say 'in theory' because after using it a few times it might get wedged in, or it might wallow the hole out too much to be useable. Just figured it was worth the experiment.
  8. Haven't used the hot cut yet, but in theory it can come out.
  9. It can be shortened, but the whole thing's pretty light so it wouldn't do much damage. I was in a hurry when I made it, so I wasn't thinking about the added length when tapering the material down... whoops.
  10. Here's how I did mine for a portable seated setup. The two fasteners are high strength 6" anchors.
  11. The coal dust is good when it's a blind hole, but once it's open on both sides it's not going to build pressure to help release the tool. What was the surface finish like on the tool?
  12. Ted, I believe I suggested this in the swage block experiment, but especially here you might to look for some expanding grout to go between the concrete and steel (at least at the top and bottom). This would allow for some mechanical preload that would help avoid a gap opening between the two. Either that, or find a way to mechanically prestress like they do for concrete structural members. I think the larger/longer the pieces are the more likely it is that you'll run into problems with keeping the hybrid structure acting as a single unit.
  13. Cold blueing? Paint just seems tacky on a hammer.
  14. wrickm, no idea on the origin of the augur, but looks like the start of a unicorn sculpture to me.
  15. For a minute there I thought those were the springs from a bed frame (or futon). Got to do a little forging today, didn't realize I pulled out 3/8 round instead of the preferred 5/16, threw my measurements off and I had a dickens of a time getting the eyes to appear reasonable. A couple rebar openers, and not pictured is a bigger slot punch than I had to make starting the eyes easier for next time. Also, did my last pair of Ken's custom Iron tongs, and welded up a pair of rail spike tongs (from big nippers and a couple chain links). Have someone in the local guild to thank for that last one.