• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About HojPoj

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Newport News, VA
  • Interests
    3D printing, welding, machining, casting, electronics, firearms

Recent Profile Visitors

475 profile views
  1. The coal dust is good when it's a blind hole, but once it's open on both sides it's not going to build pressure to help release the tool. What was the surface finish like on the tool?
  2. Ted, I believe I suggested this in the swage block experiment, but especially here you might to look for some expanding grout to go between the concrete and steel (at least at the top and bottom). This would allow for some mechanical preload that would help avoid a gap opening between the two. Either that, or find a way to mechanically prestress like they do for concrete structural members. I think the larger/longer the pieces are the more likely it is that you'll run into problems with keeping the hybrid structure acting as a single unit.
  3. Cold blueing? Paint just seems tacky on a hammer.
  4. wrickm, no idea on the origin of the augur, but looks like the start of a unicorn sculpture to me.
  5. For a minute there I thought those were the springs from a bed frame (or futon). Got to do a little forging today, didn't realize I pulled out 3/8 round instead of the preferred 5/16, threw my measurements off and I had a dickens of a time getting the eyes to appear reasonable. A couple rebar openers, and not pictured is a bigger slot punch than I had to make starting the eyes easier for next time. Also, did my last pair of Ken's custom Iron tongs, and welded up a pair of rail spike tongs (from big nippers and a couple chain links). Have someone in the local guild to thank for that last one.
  6. Cheech, careful of using the chisel in the pritchel hole like that. I did the same thing, but there wasn't enough support to the chisel and the hole started to distort on my anvil ( same source as yours).
  7. Here's a picture of the damage sustained these past 6 months, I don't claim to have exceptional hammer control since I don't get to forge very frequently. A picture with the hold down inserted. The newer stand is a lash-up of some hardwood cribbing that I got at the scrapyard, I believe it's oak. Saved me the trouble of carving a log. For awhile I didn't have the outriggers at the bottom, and it worked OK while forging, but the anvil tipped over a couple times while moving it and my driveway now has a couple of nice divots in it thanks to the horn. The outrigger pieces increased the stability tremendously. Here's one side of the hold-down system, the chains are lag bolted into the stand, and hook onto the ends of the bars that go over the feet to the other side. There's a hole that goes from the pritchel hole pass-through in the foot out to the side (with the exit *right* behind the chains, of course). A side view of the holddown bars. They don't exactly match because I was testing some things to see what works, and it worked Okay enough by the time I needed to move on to other things. The bars have hooks at each end that engage with the chains in the tensioning system, the bars actually have a curvature to them that gets taken out when the turnbuckle is tightened, having a lot of preload prevents things from loosening up in use, and works really well to tie the anvil to the base. Heres the other side. The slot in the side is for the hardy hole- stuff that gets punched out or driven through can pass down through the stand, there's more exit area behind the turnbuckle. I could use a stouter turnbuckle, but this has held up for a few sessions already. The single turnbuckle has been nice for taking the anvil off/putting back on when things need to move or travel, no tool is actually required (a piece of 1/4" square stock usually works just fine). The shape of the bars could use some refinement, or a stop of some sort welded to the feet in order to keep the bars from getting cockeyed and keeping them aligned for cinching down.
  8. You're lucky, I must've bought the last few in stock in the States- my price was closer to $170. For $135 those anvils are well worth it- at least for me and my area (scrapyard sells steel at $0.35 per pound, and the cost of time and effort to secure, cut, and mount an improvised anvil comes awful close to that cost). Glad your forge is now better tuned, have you attempted to reach welding temperature yet?
  9. I'll try to update with some photos soon, but here's a few quick thoughts based upon the time I've had with this anvil: 1) Best I can tell, the anvil face is induction hardened. I've gotten some dings during use that weren't even mis-strikes, but a file still skates on the raised material. This would imply that the outer skin is hard, but the substrate is still somewhat ductile. 2) The Hardy hole on mine is somewhat rectangular in cross-section, but I'd call it a nominal 3/4" square. One wall actually bulges inward a little bit, so might've been a soft core during casting. Unfortunately I can't do much to remove the material in there since the material inside the hole is hard xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. 3) If well-secured to its stand the anvil quiets down considerably, I highly advise doing this (and well). 4) I have really enjoyed using the double horn pattern, getting to use one definitely makes this a requirement for a future (larger) anvil acquisition. 5) The smaller size of the anvil does feel a bit limiting when it comes time to work larger cross-section stock. Not only do you have to take care to not use too big a hammer, the darn thing heats up really fast (to the point of becoming a burn hazard after awhile, so ya gotta stop and cool it down before you get into the tempering region). 6) The portability is nice, due to my current situation I have to pull the forging gear out of the garage and put it back every time- that'd get to be difficult with a larger anvil and stand (but totally worth it). 7) It can sometimes get a little cramped when using a holddown and doing chisel work, but this could probably be mitigated by me making a smaller holddown. 8) The pritchel hole being in the base of the horn works well for using it for holddowns, but forget about punching slugs out over it- it's likely to distort the work unnecessarily. The pritchel's a rough 3/4" diameter. 9) The design of the feet/legs makes it a little harder to do a nicer job of securing it to the stand. There's a gap underneath the anvil that was nice to stick hardies or chisel in during work, but that usually gets spanned by the holding hardware since the parts of the feet under the horn and heel have the pass-thru holes for the hardy and pritchel holes. Additionally, there isn't a nice regular geometry in the legs that makes it easy to keep the hold-down bars in place- the curvature changes (picture required). Don't put too much stock in this comment, though, as my method of securing it is driven by other requirements (namely, be able to remove/reinstall it from the stand quickly for purposes of travelling/demoing elsewhere).
  10. Looks like Cheech beat me to it. Gimme a few minutes and I'll give a short update... I really need to do a pictorial follow-up.
  11. Oftentimes the ratings for the motors are in a stall condition since that's when the maximum amperage goes through 'em. Totally not representative of where we're using 'em, though.
  12. HojPoj

    A Quick One

    "Less Fancy" He says
  13. Dibs on a set of sleeves if they're for welding!
  14. 13 year old niece and 10 year old nephew were in the area this week. Nephew was on a knife bent, and kept asking my father and I about them (I think in part due to excitement at being given an old swiss army knife earlier in the stay). Decided to give him the opportunity to make one, but given his weak upper body I ended up doing all the work. Sent them each away with a knife (I made them do filing on the handles and some 220 grit sanding of the blades prior to heat treat... y'know, to build character). I don't do knives, and don't have a lot of interest in doing them, so this is what I could knock out in the limited time we had. Made from coil spring, quenched in peanut oil. First temper was done with a torch on the spine, second in the convection oven set to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Temper got drawn a little further than I was intending, well into bronze instead of straw... Oh well, probably for the best since I've *no* idea if I'd messed anything up and got excessive grain growth- less likely to fracture in use... I hope. That spot in the middle was some bird's commentary on the product, and I'm inclined to agree. Doesn't matter thought, the customers are happy, and I think my sister is exasperated with me (double win!).
  15. I believe Jimmy Diresta also did a video recently about such a thing as well.