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I Forge Iron

HojPoj

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About HojPoj

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    Senior Member

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    Male
  • Location
    Newport News, VA
  • Interests
    3D printing, welding, machining, casting, electronics, firearms

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  1. And from what I understand, the ones closest to the high temperature regions actually end up burning out of the refractory matrix, their primary role is helping the refractory keep its shape until it can be fired.
  2. BHGiant: There's another type (a bit less effective) that uses a- or a couple, large weights that tumble inside in a drum to do the compaction/smearing of the sand, and a scraper takes it off the walls. As far as what it *would* have looked like, think a cement mixer style drum made from a 20lb propane tank. Only reason for doing that vs. the wheel style muller is that the wheel style can require a lot more torque and lower speed (I would have a hard time sourcing an affordable gearbox to do the job). With the stuff I had I could've used jackshafts and pulleys to get a low enough speed
  3. More interestingly, they can wear unevenly. I recall seeing at some cement manufacturing plants a number of old ones laying about, they were lumpy, egg shaped, or looked like meteorites. The ones in the pictured stash appear to be in pretty good condition. At one point I was looking for some to use in making a muller for sand casting but couldn't locate a plant in my area.
  4. Did you cut holes in the stand for stuff to drop through the hardy and pritchel holes? That's what I did on my stand and i'll say I've used that a lot for drifting holes. Your method for holdown looks like it'll work great, for my purposes I wanted the underside of the anvil to be open since I'm frequently putting chisels or other tools there that'll be a part of the next operation. To each their own, though. On second thought, yours would be pretty great if one were to drill and tap a few holes further outboard from the hold-down holes in order to be able to put on a removable tray- t
  5. The photos didn't properly capture the magnitude of the misalignment as it's in two axes. If I took care of it by grinding I'd be left with a center punch!
  6. DHarris, I'm not concerned about the crooked eye, I can deal with that. I'm more concerned with the business (punch) end of the tool being crooked relative to the body.
  7. I'm just a stone's throw from colonial Williamsburg, so yeah, it's probably a long list.
  8. Frosty- One of the mounting tabs was off kilter, as well. The hinge is welded on, so no adjustment possible. Was hoping to avoid having to do major modifications to make it work properly. Usually I spend money on other people doing the work so I don't have to... just a little irritated, is all.
  9. Saw the concept from the guys that sell the RX tongs blanks. They sell something in the same configuration that uses hex nuts instead of spacers, I just used the spacers since my hex nut supply was either too small or too large.
  10. In that configuration does it rotate relative to the handle? I was anticipating having to grind a flat or groove into them so there's something to index off of. My thinking was "they're already heat treated, so I'm not going to reforge them"... if it can't be ground into shape then they'll stay as they are!
  11. I guess my biggest concern about it is that I'd have to upset the area around the weld on both parts- that'd be around 3.5" down a 5/16" round bar!
  12. Thomas, That's what I would have tried, it's just that I distinctly recall seeing that the material overlaps over a large area on the examples I'd seen. I didn't think it would be able to be worked down in such a fashion if it wasn't already wrapping. Steve- I thought I'd try it that way to see if it would work, and if it didn't at least it would look like what I'm after so I could ask the question! I know a guy in the area that makes the hooks with this type of weld, but given the 'rona and his advanced age I won't be able to pick his brain for quite some time. Anyone recall seein
  13. Haven't used them much since I don't have pair of tongs that fit them well... yet. I have used one that was oval-shaped for starting the tabs on a bottle opener. Another I tried using as a hole punch as-is, but it definitely wanted to get stuck in the hole since it didn't have any taper to it. Many of them look like they're already set up for being eye punches (especially for a reptile), but I've not messed with that sort of work yet. There's a couple that I plan to make into precisely what you describe, though.
  14. Having recently gotten set up for solid fuel where I'm not fighting the setup, I've been doing the occasional forge welding practice. I've got some future projects that could use a looped eye like pictured below. I know there's a name for hooks used in draft animals and wagons that use welded eyes done the same way, but for the life of me I can't dredge up the proper name. Regardless, my cursory searches haven't come up with anything that details the process or how the material gets prepared to do the weld properly. It didn't blend in properly, but seems to have stuck a little. I have
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