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I Forge Iron


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About HojPoj

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    Senior Member

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  • Location
    Newport News, VA
  • Interests
    3D printing, welding, machining, casting, electronics, firearms

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  1. I'm with Latticino, would make a great base for some sort of stand.
  2. My stickout's not quite that much, but you'll come to find what works for you. Probably would've only given a small clearance between nut and head, as well (don't want the head wandering *too* far around). Many ways to address the problem, so long as it works and isn't unsafe, it ain't stupid.
  3. As Swedefiddle mentions above, a retaining pin arrangement can be helpful, *especially* if it's an asymmetric tool. That allows you to flip the tool around for left-or-right side configurations. For example, this fuller that is useful for shoulders:
  4. My guess is that Viceplaint is a bot or shill account trying to link to other sites for the traffic. But since the question was asked... I did not use a ring light, nor do I document things this thoroughly enough times to warrant the investment. That being said, ring lights are GREAT for a lot of arms-length and closer shots since you don't have to combat shadowing nearly as much. I invested in an on-lens one at work for taking pictures of stuff in cramped spaces of aircraft. For most of what I normally document, I usually just position stuff to have adequate light- it makes everythin
  5. Billiybones, would that happen to a four and a three letter word that would refer to a cajun? My father is from Bayou Lacombe and I *think* I know which one you're talking about.
  6. My wife and santa were good to me this year. I'd gotten one of the HF Titanium multi-process welders secondhand recently. Now I can finally start trying to weld some Aluminum! Asked for the chisel set so I had some references for making my own. Cape, round, and diamond chisels. Also a carbide scriber for marking metal. Steve's book was in my stocking. Glanced through the majority of it today. Sander wasn't on my list, but was appreciated. Other stuff was to help with the welding endeavor. Apparently Santa couldn't bring this gi
  7. A few things since my last update. Making my first go at doing a batch of bottle openers to sell. After spending way too long slitting and drifting the first, I opted to try drilling and grinding the slot for drifting. These will be getting wooden scales. The curved butt-end can be used for prying (like for paint cans and such). Messing around with arc-welding a claw hammer back together to see if I can make a functional curved top chisel. Not optimistic, but figured I'd give a shot. Welded together a very light duty pair of box jaw tongs. More as an experiment in the
  8. As far as staying warm, if the place is too drafty a space heater won't do much for you, but a radiant heater can help take the chill off without wasting too much energy.
  9. Take what you can get! Hex cross section has more material than the equivalent in round, but less than square. Still a big chunk regardless. Pavement breaker bits I got are about that size, and good for a number of tools. You can make hex round fairly easy, just need to be careful with how you line it up (unless you have an appropriate round swage). Dont think it'd be the right size for full size axes without a LOT of hammering.
  10. Nothing inherently dangerous in running a burner outside of the forge. Also keep in mind that if it's mild steel you can quench around the heated section to further isolate the heat. Another option is using a second torch.
  11. Sure did, thanks. Wanted to see how you handled the blending of the weld of the eye and what it looked like in the end. Makes sense that such a big weld close to the eye will be visible, but that doesn't matter one whit when it comes to structural integrity in the chosen application (shouldn't ever be any peeling stress, only shear)
  12. While I'd commented on the video, guess it's easier to answer here... do you have a close up photo of the finished piece? Particularly the eye?
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