Jclonts82

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About Jclonts82

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Safford, AZ
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing
    Damascus patterns

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  1. Twisting in the forge works well. I managed 15 full twists on this 1/2 square test piece, mild steel. On the real thing I will only go about 10 or so... I guess? I cut off 1/3 of the billet and drilled holes for the pattern. I tried 2 different sized drill bits, at varying depths just to see how it works. When my arm relaxes a bit I will go back out in the heat and get it as thin as I dare. The other 2/3 will get the twist treatment, 1/2 of it will be hammered to final shape, the other will get the drill in the twisted pattern... might be neat, might not be noticeable at all. I guess that is what the fun of learning is all about.
  2. So update, have the billet welded up, 6>12, 12>48 layers... good enough I guess. I've never done a twist, or raindrop for that matter. My plan is to try both with simple wrought Iron to practice technique, 1/2" square I bought for $3. My plan is to run the iron all the way through the forge, as I have a smaller opening on the back end of mine. I will clamp the back end in a vice then manually turn the other end with a large pipe wrench. I'm figuring that I can keep it in the heat while twisting, thereby avoiding the temptation to twist while at too low of a temperature? I have read and watched where people round the corners to avoid inducing inclusions/cold shunts. Would there be an advantage (or an issue) if I completely rounded it first, not just the corners or a hexagon shape but all the way round? I will try drilling various diameter drill bits and see how easy (read not easy at all) it will be to hammer the stock all the way flat after that. All practice done on the iron in an effort to avoid an oops it on the 6hrs hammered damascus billet. To twist the real thing, I will weld on the same Iron to each end, with the billet sitting right in the middle of the flame in the forge. Any thoughts or comments will be appreciated before I give it a go. Thanks Jason
  3. Pics will come successful or not!
  4. I looked it up, that could end up looking really nice. I've never done it, but I'm willing to give it the old try. The billet im starting with is going to be roughly 1" W X 2..5" long, and i think about 1.5' tall... Its all the leftover pieces of stock from a large knife I made for father's day. It should be plenty of steel to try a few patterns. I think I will get the layer count up first, then split the billet into 2-3 pieces and with each one try a different pattern. A twist, a caplet and eye... maybe twist then caplet? Make one for him... one for me! It will depend on how much steel I have to work with. Thank you for the input, this could be really fun. Good points. Try to make it 'springy'. and thank you for the confirmation of thickness to stop at. I'm going to start this thing tonight... and since he doesn't know about it, if its a total failure, nothing really lost but experience gained.
  5. End of 1st paragraph... I'm pretty wordy in my posts, might have missed it. 1095 & 15n20 I have never tried a pond and eye, not entirely sure what that is, I will let Dr. google take over for that one.
  6. I have a colleague (pharmacist) who is moving in a few weeks, and I thought I'd make something nice for him as a parting gift. My idea is to make a 'counting spatula' ( What we use to count all y'all old cranky curmudgeons Flomax with) out of patterned steel. I have only made 5 or so damascus projects, all of them random simple folds for patterns, 1 being a knife. But never something this thin. Its about 1mm thick. My plan is to to get a billet made with ~70 (+/- 15) layers, then twist it to reduce the need to grind for pattern appearance. 15n20, 1095, I plan to etch with higher concentration HCl (~20%) first for topography, then finish with ~7% FeCL3 for appearance. My main concern is getting it as thin as it needs to be. I'm willing to go thicker than the standard, but want to keep it as close to these real examples as possible. How thin should I try to hammer out the steel? My initial thought is get it to about 1/8 inch then grind to final dimensions. My fear is if I go any thinner and I have any scale, or a stray hammer blow in there I wont be able to grind through it and still have usable material left... My second thought is heat treatment. I know that hardness affects pattern in the etch, but this being as thin as it is, I don't think I want to quench at all, plus the real thing is quite flexible so that property would be ideally retained. I appreciate any thoughts on the matter from those with more experience and knowledge than myself.
  7. I kid you not, driving home LATE last night on I-10 I was thinking of doing the exact same thing, could use TIG with the joints and no filler rod to keep from introducing mild steel to it if worried about that, but even so, carbon migration should take care of it anyways. As for the soak time, I imaging a lot will depend on the thickness you make the can. But I would just get it right up to forging temp, nice and bright yellow, and just let it sit there until you imagine it has been long enough, then let it sit about 5 minutes more just to be safe, as long as you're not sparking the steel, should be mostly ok?
  8. I made a quick video of my pump pumping on a block of 1" X 1" X 7" blocks glued together for another project im working on... just so you can see it in action. It looks like the linseed oils is boiling, but its just air, and possibly vaporized water coming out of the wood.
  9. The first link, 56$ for the pump, second link is just the chamber without a pump. total for both will be roughly $185
  10. All is inclusive with the pump and chamber, no extra fittings required. you only need enough liquid, whatever youre using, to cover the work piece. I suggest using a quart jar inside the pot so you dont need as much liquid. also if it foams over the jar, it will be collected in the pot and you can just pour it back in when done. I also used the pot by itself with 1.5 gallons of linseed oil and soaked a bunch of wood blanks at the same time for a larger project. If doing this, make sure the foam doesn't hit the intake by the gauges because the pump will suck it into itself, and is probably not healthy for it... again, ask me how I know...
  11. https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-Single-Stage-Economy-Conditioner-Refrigerant/dp/B012CFTYX4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498491277&sr=8-3&keywords=vacuum+pump $56 A mason jar, 2qt if you can find one, and some fittings from your local ACE/Home depot. Drill (very slowly because a bit can catch and tear the brass lid... ask me how I know) a hole barely big enough for the fittings to sandwitch with gaskets on each side of the hole in the lid. If you want to spend a little extra, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NP311CU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 @$128. complete setup its what I use. Soak the wood in the liquid, can even put inside a glass jar inside the pot to make cleanup easier. weight it down until submerged. hit the vacuum pump. it sucks the air out of the wood, you will see it bubbling out and usually creates a foam on the top as the air bubbles expand D/T the vacuum. after the wood no longer has bubbles coming out, release the pressure, all the voids in the wood will compress when atmospheric pressure is added back in and suck up the liquid its sitting in. I have taken a 4" X 4" X 6" chunk of mesquite and had linseed oil penetrate all the way through it. When you cut it in half there is oil all the way to the middle. This process will work with stabilizers too. PS if you buy the pot kit from amazon, the hose has a rectangular insert in it that unscrews out, if you don't unscrew it it wont attach to the vac pump...
  12. Now THAT sounds like my next dink around little project! I thought of making pharmacy pill counting spatulas for work, but that sounds like more fun
  13. Also try plugging in "canister welding" or "canister damascus" into google, can is more of a shortened cannister. *Edit: wow... question from Feb... Thought I saw a new post and commented... was it accidentally pinned to top of forum? yes, pin removed...
  14. After much toil and tribulation... I finished the beast. Unfortunately as the epoxy cured the handle cracked... oh well, I think it adds character. Also while 'attempting' to drill little teardrop patterns just for looks in the top of the tang the bit caught and either found an occlusion/delam, or made one and created a crack/pocket in the tang. seen on the 3rd mark down.not too deep, I didn't feel like welding/filling it so kept on going. After letting everything cure I vacuum impregnated the whole thing with boiled linseed oil. (submersed in oil and put under vacuum, -27 in Hg at 2800 feet elevation, for about 2 hours). It sucks the air out of the wood and as you release pressure, the oil is sucked/pressed in and takes the air's place. So the whole handle is penetrated all the way to the epoxy with oil. To set the oil I left it in the sun for a couple of afternoons. This last week it was ~ 104 in Arizona. Wipe off any weeped oil until it stops weeping out... consider it done at that point. BTW, handle is Mesquite, made from the log the knife is sitting on in the grass.
  15. Most of the rough grinding done, almost exactly 6 inches of blade, 6 inches of tang, might trim that off a bit as I go along. I will just have to see what feels right. I meant it when I said BEEFY, the spine is at 0.32 in!! BUT I'm planning on doing a very high grind bevel. can see that projected line faintly on the profile pic. My trigonometry puts the long taper angle at roughly 14-15 degrees. The etch will most likely be back and forth between ferric chloride and about 18% of some kind of 'stabilized' HCL I found at my local ACE. Worked well on the Fleur De Lis and the heart I made with my first ever damascus billet. and abot 4th from the bottom post on this one Time lapse of the damascus etching on the wife's heart necklace