• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Jclonts82

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Safford, AZ
  • Interests
    Damascus patterns

Recent Profile Visitors

1,512 profile views
  1. Also, if the piece you are etching is not hardened, it will likely come out grey instead of black on the 1095. I don't know enough crystal metallurgy to say why, but it might be the structure of martensite and the amount of carbon available in the steel matrix. heat it up, quench it, and no buffing wheel, it can smear the nickel across and take away the good clean boundaries of the steels. I sand up to 600 grit then etch. Also probably dilute the FC to at least 1 part FC, 2 parts DISTILLED water. Buy it at the grocery store in a gallon jug.
  2. Jclonts82

    Stainless Damascus steel choice

    I have never made stainless damascus, but a friend wants me to try it and make him a kitchen knife with it. I have researched the process quite a bit, I think I am solid on my knowledge in that front, (knowledge, not practical experience... yet...) but what I cannot find are typical steel choices used. I have seen some referenced and I don't know/am not entirely familiar with them. Or where to get them easily in the US. Most of what I buy is from NJ baron. Examples I have found: in 'Damasteel's' data sheet they use "RWL34" and "PMC27" Others I have found use "19C27 Swedish Stainless and 302 Stainless, with a D2 core". I'm not terribly familiar with any of those except 302 and D2... the RWL and PMC are trademarked, you can buy the steels separately, but they are VERY pricey. What I am looking for is what combos produce a great contrast, and are both hardenable steels, and somewhat easily obtained? (its not asking much is it??? lol) As far as I know that 302 is NOT hardenable, only 0.15 Carbon, and that is probably what the D2 core is for. I'm looking for something that is not going to need a core, and is all considered stainless, or at least fairly close to it ( like D2). I have seen plenty of examples where stainless is mixed with plain 'high carbon' or O1, 5160, etc... but not considered stainless. If buying solo from NJ, would any of these have great contrast when welded? 154-CM, 416, 440-C, AEB-L, D2, S30V, S35-VN? I appreciate any knowledge/insights/options y'all might have. Thank you
  3. Jclonts82

    Pattern on D2 steel.

    Yes... more of a keerrrshhhrrroooff
  4. Jclonts82

    Pattern on D2 steel.

    Finished it up. I never got all the minor scratches out, so looking close will show them. Its gonna be used as kitchen knife, it will probably gain a few more along the way. Ebony handle with red felt spacer.
  5. Jclonts82

    bending jig for blacksmith knives?

    I took a piece of 1 1/4 square rebar about 80 years old and hammered it until it fit the hardy hole with a little shoulder left on it. Then I hot-cut the end of it and drew out the two pieces and made them round and sheped it into a fork. they are about 1.5 inches apart, and about 3/8-1/2 inch round and about 2 inches long. paralell. hardened them then tempered it. I use it to make the handles, you can adjust your pull or pivot points to get more custom shapes, or it can be very repeatable and make the same bend time and time again. Its really just a simple bending fork. And works well for me. you could fabricate easily with mild steel too, I just wanted to make my own from a single piece... more hammering the better for me, its therapeutic.
  6. Jclonts82

    Pattern on D2 steel.

    Still have some scratches to get out... if I feel like it, sounds like a lot of work... Grain pattern disappeared at about 1000 grit. Was an ABSOLUTE pain to sharpen. I’ve never worked with D2 before. The most trouble id had sharpening a blade before this was 52100, and it wasnt that bad. I abandoned the stones, because I didnt have 2 hours, and pulled out a ken onion work-sharp and destroyed an entire set of belts just to get a good edge on it. Should last though. One tiny slip wiping off fingerprints with a shop towel and a nice little dermapeal on my ring finger...
  7. Jclonts82

    Pattern on D2 steel.

    That is my thought, I'm seeing the grain. Its kinda neat looking... I'm just wondering If I can get to a clean a mirror finish. Buzzkill, I had read that thread once before, I guess 'orange peel look' is about appropriate for a description, though there are also a few longer bands that kind of appear. I'm sure I can keep going up the grits, and may have some of that "texture" look in it, and that would be OK. Jay Fisher's website info really does give a lot of information, but a some of it is 1/2 information and conjecture. I have NO DOUBT that he knows his stuff, and it obviously works well for him, but there are a few statements here and there that give me pause, mainly because of my own EXTENSIVE chemistry and physics background. But like anything you learn, always be a skeptic. Trust but verify. His website is what made me decide to get into cryo treating in the first place... plus its REALLY fun to make instant ice cream by pouring LN2 to a recipe while furiously having someone string the ingredients. All PPE in place of course Video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxo1WQbTYBY
  8. Jclonts82

    Pattern on D2 steel.

    I’m hand sanding the first knife I have made from D2 and at 320 grit I’m starting to see an odd pattern in the steel. It almost looks like what you see on galvanized steel, but smaller crystal boundaries and less regular. I don’t know what it is. I’m planning on going to a mirror finish, but if this is what D2 just looks like, it may be a wasted effort to keep hand sanding. I just don’t have any hands on experience with this steel to know... just what I could research. any ideas? Because it might matter, it might not, my heat treat (evenheat oven) was this: A 15 minute soak in a SS foil wrap at 1850 F. Then took out and aluminum plate quenched the blade portion until about 120 F. Then as slowly and controlled as I could I dropped the temp with N2 . I floated blade on styrofoam raft and slowly added nitrogen to bottom of the container until it stayed liquid, then raised the level until it just almost touched the spine, slowly added until submerged, goal was about -10F/minute. I was fairly close. Then soaked in the N2 dewar for 50 hours. Tempered to 500F, 2 x 1hr cycles. Pictures don’t show it terribly well, but you can kinda see it. Might try a video moving it with light reflections, in the reflecting of light it seems to show up the most.
  9. Jclonts82

    What did you do in the shop today?

    Today I pulled my first cryo treated knife out of the LN2. Tempered, and started the long slow hand sanding process... at 180, still a ways to go. D2 kitchen knife.
  10. Another thing to consider is your skill level and accuracy and depth of hammer blows. When I first started about 1.5 years ago, I forged really thick and ground it thin, because I had a few errant hammer blows that I would have to grind down everything else around it to erase the divot from that blow. NOW I hand forge my bevels all the way to about a nickel thickness in the cutting edge without having to grind much to get the steel flat. All that is better hammer control. If I wanted a blade that was 3/16th thick, I would probably start at 1/4. If I wanted a knife 2" wide, I could easily pull a bevel down to meet that width from 1.5" x 1/4" bar. I could probably, If i was careful do it from 1.25" stock, and it would be a REAL stretch for ME to pull it from 1" stock. I'm sure others could do that easily, I'm also sure there are those that absolutely would NOT be able to cleanly and evenly pull that edge down. Also consider distal tapers, you need less length in your starting bar if you are capable enough to forge in the distal taper, if you're wanting one. Probably not the exact answer you wanted, but the answer to this particular question is unique for every smith.
  11. I did this exact thing for the heat treatment of my first straight razor. Worked perfectly. Almost zero scale.
  12. Jclonts82

    Buy a shear?

    Latticino, you... are a smart man. I just looked and I can get a 12" X 0.375" round of nickel 200 for about the same price as a 12" X 1..5" X 1/16. I can easily forge that square and its More bang for the buck. I will look for thicker wire in a spool too if I can find it the thickness I need. Thanks Kozzy, I'm planning on making types of damascus mosiacs with nickel and Carbon-steel. Think of a picture made of pixels, but using nickel and steel strips/powder carefully layered to form a black/white image. Forge-welded solid into a bar, cut into pieces then used for various projects. Any distortion on the edges can be cleaned up a bit if needed. I need to do lots of experiments before I start with the expensive stuff. I'm researching ALL methods and practicing technique first.
  13. Jclonts82

    Buy a shear?

    I wanting to cut some strips of various nickel alloys (1/16 to 1/8 inches thick) by about 2 inches wide for now, maybe wider in the future. But I need the cut piece to be square in dimension. IE, I have a 12 inch flat strip that is 2" wide X 1/16th thick , and I want to cut it into small 1/16 square pieces that are 2" long. Since nickel alloys are fairly expensive, I want save on material loss that would otherwise come from a band-saw or even a jewlers saw cutting the strips by hand. I imagine a shear-type tool will fit the bill. However I have NO experience using one at all, and would like some recommendations. I can get a Baileigh MPS-8G shear for about $200. anyone have experience cutting this small/accurately with a shear? and would something like this meet my needs, or any other alternatives would be appreciated. If my project works and doesn't frustrate me to no end, I will be doing a LOT of this in the future, so tool cost-investment is worth it to me. Thanks
  14. Jclonts82

    Pattern Weld Etchant Question

    I have researched quite a bit, and have found that about a 20% solution is generally as strong as you want to get. you can go lower and etch longer until you get the desired effect. its more careful that way too. In my world of pharmaceuticals, the shortcut i use for making anything with pure powder is this: 1% = 1gm in 100mls. 20% = 20grams in 100mls. expanded out to a liter: 200 grams in 1000mls = 20% if starting with ~60% liquid, adding an equal volume would cut the percentage in half. ie 250mls 60% concentrate + 250mls H2O = 500 mls of 30% concentration. I buy the 60% and mix 100mls concentrate to 300 mls water for a final concentration of about 15%
  15. I would suggest that *MOST* of your ordered stock will come annealed from the mill. Any home brew heat you try to do in a forge will likely leave it harder than it came shipped. Of all the steels to try first, I would have saved the 52100 for last. Its more picky on the heat treat. Plus it has a reasonable amount of Chrome in it, that forms chrome carbides which are very hard, and likely what killed your saw blades. The 5160 and 1080 are much more forgiving in my humble opinion. I like seeing the meticulousness of your approach! Good work, and keep at it. Don't be afraid to ask specific questions if you cant find the answers yourself.