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About Jclonts82

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Safford, AZ
  • Interests
    Damascus patterns

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  1. Both my propane forges are ‘plumbed’ with standard ole rubber propane hose. I would like to change it out for a hard metal line, I was showing someone some basics when he inadvertently bumped a gas line with yellow hot steel... My first thought is automotive brake lines, with appropriate adapters. Thought Id ask the collective here what you use for hard metal gas lines?
  2. Is it possible to get a small trailer? I picked up my Anyang 88 in Decatur Tx, and live in southern AZ, it weighs right around 4000# I used a trailer used to transport scissor lifts. Also, I used chain boomers... made sure the thing was not going ANYWHERE.
  3. I really DO recommend the internal pipe sanding, at least a little bit to: A. Clean up any oil or oxidation or crum that might be in there. B. To clear off chrome oxides then force the HC rod in making good contact. GOOD LUCK!
  4. Right on. Go ahead and try a few different inner cores if you have the time/resources, post results. I only had 2x12” sections of pipe.
  5. I had success with a heavy walled 316 stainless pipe, 1" outer diameter, 0.74.." inner diameter, and a piece of W1 round stock at 0.75.. I took a 1/4 round mild steel rod, cut a slit on the end, then put a piece of 50 grit sand paper in the slit, chucked it in a drill and bored the inner diameter of the pipe until the W1 round would just barely fit with some 'gentle' persuasion. once the stainless sleeve was on, and flush on both ends, I mig welded it completely around both ends. effectively making a canister, with the 316 on the outside. Heated it to welding temp. I judge it by color, to me its a bright yellow... use whatever you want, you could even slap some borax on the outside to make sure its bubbling vigorously just to use as a temp gauge, not needed for the weld, just a temp indicator. Took it to the power hammer and away I went. hammer to shape, hammer in bevels, grind through the stainless and expose the W1 cutting edge. I had to experiment with the quench. I had to use a slower, room temp canola oil. I cut some test pieces at 1/2: wide, 1.5" long , ground through the stainless to make a bevel exposing the W1. I tested in Water, Mcmaster carr quench oil, heated canola, and room temp canola oil. The room temp canola is the only one that didn't crack the W1... I think the stainless cooled and shrunk quite a bit, and it actually pulled the W1 apart, the welds held, but the w1 ended up with a crack in the middle of it, like it was pulled in 2... lol
  6. This is a post of mine, my first foray into cable, not great, but not terrible either... . So... for the NEXT KNIFE you make out of this cable, to get the pattern to show up, no adding up the layers, just get it solid, then shape a knife out of it, standard etching will show it off, plenty of threads explaining how to do the etch.
  7. I thought it was in decent shape. I will take a wire wheel to parts of it that have accumulated dirt on it, that can trap moisture and promote rust, plus clean up the screw... other than that, I will just get her back to work!
  8. I don’t know my post vise anatomy that well, but I’m assuming this is the screw box? gotta love the stand/table/thing the old man kludged together.
  9. Story time, always makes things more meaningful right?: My grandfather passed away, and many of the family wanted to add something personal with him in the casket. My grandfather was always very proud of his lineage. We can trace the McEuen name to the 1600’s in Scotland. There is even a McEuen castle. So my mom, aunts and uncle got the traditional McEuen Tartan made and laid it with him. I decided, in the 6 hours I had available over 3 days to make him a Dirk. He once told me he liked them because they were usually fairly ‘beefy’. More than that, he loved the interesting history behind them. I made a low, 26 layer billet and instead of forging bevels like I usually do, i did pure stock removal, so to have even-ish layers. I had a piece of 2700 year old bog wood (oak i think) from Scotland that made the handle. I know its not really the traditional handle style, but with what I had and time available it was what I could do. The yellow name is sort of a family/friend inside joke, plus a little endearment. Every piece of equipment, old jeep, welder, vise, swamp cooler, etc ... he would get a yellow or white fabric paint pen and write his last name on it, sometimes a year too. I took a picture of one signature on a mig welder he gave me, and my wife used her craft cutter computer program to trace it exactly and cut it out with vinyl. We thought it was appropriate. He was a great man, and taught me so much. He will be missed.
  10. My grandfather passed away Valentines day, the Saturday before he told me to go ahead and take the vise. I was able to haul it to its new home today. It openes and closes just fine. The screw seems in good shape, but when I get time I will take the whole thing apart, clean it up, and put it back together and back to use. The one thing I wont be cleaning is his fabric paint writing. He put that on everything he acquired. Wrote his name, and usually the year Any idea what the makers mark is here?
  11. Thank you. It was a blast to make! The steel work was fairly straightforward. However, I feel most accomplished in getting the angles of the wood (where koa meets ebony) and the front of the ebony into matching the roughly 15 degree angle I put on the heel of the knife... hard to explain what Im talking about. The angle where the ebony part of the handle meets the spine on the steel is not 90 degrees, its more of a 75/105 degree, and I wanted the wood lines to match and be parallel to that angle. For me, that was the hardest part of the whole build... LOL
  12. Someone from Flint Michigan?... i'd understand you being weary of water. LOL There are enough small lakes and streams, hidden gems, if you know where to look. They all live in AZ, with 3 being in the southeast part of the state
  13. glad to hear I'm not the only one! just recently found a knife I had been working on, 4 months earlier, because I set it down somewhere and 'lost' it
  14. the main difference is that CO has a higher binding affinity to hemoglobin and myoglobin in the blood and muscles. Neither gas has a color, or odor. CO2 is heavier than air and sinks and fills low pits, settles, CO tends to be lighter than air and accumulates in the top of structures... you know, where your breathing hole is. However it is more close to the average weight of 'air' and will mix more readily rather than have a separate layer. To answer your question about which, I have worked with both, I am also fairly inexperienced. With that label on myself I prefer propane. I don't have to babysit the flame, stack and rake the coals, worry about clinkers, ash, less likely to overheat or burn steel, though a hotspot in solid fuel forges can be advantageous. Maybe add your own experience level into the equation and ask yourself do you want to spend more time tending a fire, or swinging a hammer. For me, with my lesser experience, it was the latter.