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About Jclonts82

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    Senior Member

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  • Location
    Safford, AZ
  • Interests
    Damascus patterns

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  1. Cable Damascus Bowie, With a Hammon?

    If you don't mind sharing, what is your etch process? I'm finishing up my first gonat cable damascus and am looking for different options. This is a 1:2 FC:water, 3x 5 minute dips, light sand w/1000 grit and wipe with blue shop paper towel between each dip. Then soaked in a baking soda/water solution for 30 minutes. Final light sand and spray w/ WD40 to get the water off . I like it so far, but always want to learn other methods. It is dark though...
  2. notching cutting edge insert

    Wouldn't you be able to grind through them easily while profiling? That could also depend on the depth of penetration on the weld.
  3. notching cutting edge insert

    I can see that, I just wonder about creating a void? For my purposes, I think I would just tack weld the top and bottom. MAYBE one tack in the middle to keep things from moving too much, while still allowing enough movement for the blows to push together any imperfect surfaces and fill spaces on the two welding surfaces.
  4. Grew up on a cotton farm, 5th generation. Learned to weld out of necessity. Became REALLY good at 'making do' with whatever you could get your hands on to fix equipment. Fell in love with re purposing 'junk'. I was always interested in knives, and general metal work. Plus a huge history buff. Fast Forward to 5 years out of pharmacy school, 33yo, wife, 2 kids, and in need of another hobby for stress relief. Saw something on the history channel called "forged in Fire" Figured it was about something dumb like aliens or something, but watched one episode. Thought it was kinda cool, obviously lots of made up drama for TV purposes, but cool enough to watch again. 2 more episodes and I decided, "I'M DOING THIS' That was March of 2017, and I now have 3 anvils, 2 forges, 3 different sized belt grinders, a VERY high speed buffing wheel, drill press, log-splitter press, shopsmith wood worker, 3 vices... and not nearly enough time to use all of it!
  5. San Mai forge welding problem

    how hot was the billet when side hammering? Also, I have forge welded 52100 (typical ball bearing steel) to W2 a few times, and every time I did any hammering I had to kep it above the non-magnetic threshold. I found (with my limited experience) any cooler than that and the materials would stretch too differently, 52100 being VERY stiff, and would lead to weld failure/shear. Good luck!
  6. Planning my first gas forge

    I have 2 of the 1" burners you're talking about on my BIG (18" X 9" D shape) forge I made for larger projects (axes, twisting long cable) and I love them, they work very well. I still have and mainly use my first smaller (5" X 11" D shape) forge with a 3/4 home-made pos burner. Both easily reach welding temperatures, but for me the Alec Steele burner is a GAS HOG, I hope you have some good sized tanks! Good plan, look forward to seeing some pictures and some nice work come out of it.
  7. notching cutting edge insert

    Quick search for examples yielded this. The typed description on this video mirrors what TP described above. "Teeth are cut into a high carbon bit which will anchor it into the soft iron axe body for forge welding." ironically searching for this example is the first time I found an explanation/reason for the notches. Unfortunately the majority of my 'research time' is limited to while at work, and the comp has no sound so I can't follow commentary, I can only watch or read. I'm simply curious if there are other reasons for doing it.
  8. I have seen some examples of forge welding the cutting edge (HC) into lower carbon, WI, or pattern welded body. Many times I have seen (the cursed youtube) the inserted edge notched every 1/2 - 1" or so with a chisel before being inserted for the weld. Why is this? Are we introducing more surface area to weld? allowing flex room for the insert to bend better to match the body? I'm wanting to eventually give making some axes a go, and am researching beforehand.
  9. Thanks for the comments everyone, I'm slowly getting the hang of this whole process. Lots more than just pounding on hot steel, though that is the best part to me... I hope to continually improve and expand my knowledge in all this craziness I have gotten myself into! I just got a line on about 200-300' (free) of old steel cable that came from the copper mine a few hours away from me. Not sure what application, I'm leaning on crane cable. 1 1/4 " I think. So lots of reading and research lies ahead of me, but nothing compares to giving it the ole' try! To me there is something about turning old stuff, what might be just considered junk, into something awesome that I just love!
  10. kast-o-lite 30, how thin?

    I'm currently working on a new forge build, old (first) one has become a little bit on the small side for some projects I'm wanting to work on. I do a fair bit of pattern welding, so higher temperatures. I'm using Kast-o-lite 30 for the first time, and want to know how thin CAN you go with it. I know WayneCo uses 1/2", as does pretty much everyone else (then its probably for a good reason right?) when coating rigidized ceramic wool. I'm just curious if 3/8 inch, or 1/4 inch would work or not. Is the 1/2 thickness needed for strength? heat retention properties (not letting too much heat get to the wool)? something else I have no idea about? I'm going to finish coat with ITC-100, I would buy new matrikote or plistex, but I obtained free ITC-100 from the local community college's ceramics guy; it 'expired' and would have just been thrown away so I'm using that. He said it had been on the shelf for ~2years and never opened. It is still quite wet, so I figured why not? Any thoughts on the matter would be appreciated. Thanks
  11. The handle was shaped on the fly, since there was no real plan I just thought, "huh.. a pommel type ball in the wood would feel good in the hand" so sand the back end to make the ball, then it looked uneven, so I thought it would look better if I mimicked the same taper/grove near the front end. All this was on a piece of stabilized mesquite, 1"X 1" X 7". It was a test piece when I was first trying out cactus juice and alumilite dye. Finished to 600 grit then lightly oiled with linseed oil. Its actually very smooth even though the texture of the grain makes it look rough. Thanks for the comments. @ThomasPowers.. I think I will use A LOT more BSB/PS in the future for guards, pommels, trinkets like bottle openers etc... its free materials. Yes it takes more time to prep and time has value, but for me its a hobby not a business, and I enjoy even the grunt-prep work.
  12. He is good at photobombing. And eating skunks... thats about it.
  13. I've never sold a knife, I wanted my skill set to be much better before I felt comfortable selling something. All that I have made so far have been gifts really. This is my 8th knife. I tried my hand at BSB/PS combo and it worked pretty well. Since the steel is somewhat unknown, hardened, but not nearly as hard as other knives I have made, and had some inclusions from twisting, I figured I would just keep this knife for myself... Maybe a letter opener. So I finished it up, no measuring to get guard and handle perfectly centered, all just eyeballed and thrown together. Someone saw it and I guess fell in love with it. They asked what I wanted for it, I said its not going to hold an edge very well, it has some inclusions, the guard is not centered, i think its 1/4" longer on one side... basically I pointed out the imperfections as I saw it, thinking he wouldn't want it. He said to me that all the knives you see are technically perfect, no flaws, and might as well have come from a CNC assembly line. He offered me $250, I said its too much, said id be more comfortable with $75... he said no, and $150 final offer...i thought that was too much But he insisted. So I sold it. anyways less chatter, more splatter: 39 layers BSB/PS. 10-12 full twists. Etched in FeCl3 then darkened in instant coffee. Guard is the last piece cut off a bad weld on a W2-52100 billet. Handle is blue dyed stabilized mesquite from the back yard. And a 1/8" peened brass pin.
  14. Bowie set in elk antler, questions

    That's a great idea! I will do that Consequently on @Frosty's common remark, the hammered look on the brass ended up being one of those 'happy accidents'. I had sanded and buffed the guard and pommel to a perfect mirror finish; while getting everything set up for a final fit before gluing, I knocked the guard off the table, tried to catch it, and dropped a heavy section of octagonal drill shaft right onto it... so a hammered finish it is. I ended up liking it more that way.
  15. Bowie set in elk antler, questions

    More pics. I'm going to trim the kydex a little more, its late and I had enough of the black stuff flying in my face for one day.