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I Forge Iron

Jclonts82

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About Jclonts82

  • Rank
    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Safford, AZ
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing
    Damascus patterns

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  1. rhitee93: As far as I could tell, it sharpened pretty normal, I used the belt grinder to get through the coating, then used my DMT stones to do the final cutting edge (note, thats how I do all my blades...). It was a short blade, and I didn't pay much attention as I should have to see if it took longer than normal to get through it. A sharp abrasive belt moving at speed does go through the coating, its only a few thousandths thick... I want to give him a higher layer count blade, and this time sharpened finer than a fleas whisker when going into the coating machine, the previous on
  2. I had him coat a platen I made for my grinder as a test as well, we we took a standard utility razor blade, and "scratched" the heck out of the coated steel. It left marks, but come to find out it was like chalk on a chalkboard, it was the razor blade rubbing off on the DLC coating. a few swipes with a thumb and some pressure and they wiped off... Still no idea on price points, He is not at liberty to tell me his operating costs, with companies he contracts with, that is kept under NDAs. Lately I have been helping him test firearm components for vari
  3. Long story, kinda short: My uncle works for a company that has developed an extremely fast (20-60 mins) method for coating electrical conductive materials in a bonded layer of "Diamond Like Carbon" basically they strip xylane gas apart in a plasma field to unbonded C4+, and very carefully deposit it into, and onto the substrate of their choice. (read: grow microns thick layers of diamond on the surface of whatever they want) They are figuring any and all industrial and practical (sometimes impractical) uses for the tech. He wants me to reach out on some forums to see any market pot
  4. Been a while since I had posted. Made a kitchen knife, was planning to offer as a trade on some 1 1/4" cable, but the guy said I could just have it, all of it, all 120' of it... So the first knife I've made that I'm keeping myself. 1080 (1084? maybe, cant remember) and 15n20, twist, Stabilized and dyed Cottonwood handle, nice shimmer to it. Deep etched then buffed, has a neat look to the steel.
  5. I will post updates as I get the gumption to work in the heat of July in Southern AZ, and as days off permit. Its a good sized billet, after cutting the ends off I have a 20" X 2.5" X 5/8" bar. cutting that into 5 equal parts then forging, as identical as I can, blades from the pieces. I planning on an octagonal, hidden tang, similar to Japanese style kitchen knifes. but not doing the collar. a simple 3/16" stainless plate on the front that matches the handle dimensions.
  6. Well I decided to just try it. Had my 25 layer pieces at about 1/2” thick. And the 80CrV2 is 3/8” thick. I went with 2 center pieces 80CrV2 and 2 cladding pieces at 25 layers each. So 1:0.75:1 ratio. It welded up just fine, consequently its the first forge-welding I've done without borax... just clean surfaces, reducing atmosphere, and a soak in kerosene.
  7. I’m making a set of 5 matching kitchen knives for 5 sisters doing 50-layer Damascus on each side, with a 80crv2 core. I have never done a core, and an looking for some guidance on thickness/ratios of the three layers. I know it varies depending on how much core you want, just wondering if anyone has any experience or what you had done in the past that worked well. Hopefully i can forge evenly enough to keep the core centered, and keeping the pattern even-ish from side to side.
  8. They were about 5/8” square-ish.. and about 5” long. 5 total bars. Mig welded the ends with a handle. At Welding heats forged down to anout 1.75 inches tall. Generally 5-6 light taps (88# anyang) compressing the stack then one hit on each side to keep it flat. Forged it to about 1/4 inch wide and generally to length/shape. 1/2 way forged bevels until edge was a bit over 1/8” width. Ground until edge was a touch over 1/16” then did full heat treat.
  9. This was my 3rd or 4th piece of Damascus. Worn out band saw blade from the hardware store that cuts metal, and pallet strapping that fell outside the right of way from a railroad track. All hand forged.
  10. Latest work. Still need to elecrto-etch mark. 26? Layer, 5 bar alternating twist about 10 twists each, some more, some less. Wanted to see how different twist counts played out. Stabilized (cactus juice) and dyed birdseye maple handle with brass spacer. 1084 and 15n20. 9 inch blade measured as straight line from heel to tip 14.25 overall length 8.2 oz weight. ... huh it wont let me upload pictures, gives me an error... I put em on imgur... will try again in a reply I guess The images are 37 inches x 37 inches and 21 megs in size. The reworked imag
  11. I have a bin with the broken pieces from testing like TP says, also damascus billet cutoffs, pieces too small etc... I plan on trying my hand at canister damascus with all these random scraps and leftovers.. I'm thinking I will soak everythingin vinegar to get any scale off, take to wire wheel, then just give it a shot?
  12. Good friend finally found “the one” in June, got engaged. I thought a neat idea would be make a wedding carving set. And seeing as the wedding was end of December I had a good deal of time to try something new. Decided on a mosaic pattern, went for explosion, but got somewhat lost when re-squaring and ended up with more of a lazy star. Oh well. She has Greek heritage so I found some Wild olive wood that came from Greece for the handles made the “star” then sandwiched that with 2 medium layer twists, then top and bottom with a few alternating thick layers
  13. The wood is apricot, stabilized. The pins from Knife and gun, or maybe Amazon. Don’t remember...
  14. He was ecstatic... just needs time to go coyote hints now.
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