• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Jclonts82

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Safford, AZ
  • Interests
    Damascus patterns

Recent Profile Visitors

1,802 profile views
  1. This is a post of mine, my first foray into cable, not great, but not terrible either... . So... for the NEXT KNIFE you make out of this cable, to get the pattern to show up, no adding up the layers, just get it solid, then shape a knife out of it, standard etching will show it off, plenty of threads explaining how to do the etch.
  2. I thought it was in decent shape. I will take a wire wheel to parts of it that have accumulated dirt on it, that can trap moisture and promote rust, plus clean up the screw... other than that, I will just get her back to work!
  3. I don’t know my post vise anatomy that well, but I’m assuming this is the screw box? gotta love the stand/table/thing the old man kludged together.
  4. Story time, always makes things more meaningful right?: My grandfather passed away, and many of the family wanted to add something personal with him in the casket. My grandfather was always very proud of his lineage. We can trace the McEuen name to the 1600’s in Scotland. There is even a McEuen castle. So my mom, aunts and uncle got the traditional McEuen Tartan made and laid it with him. I decided, in the 6 hours I had available over 3 days to make him a Dirk. He once told me he liked them because they were usually fairly ‘beefy’. More than that, he loved the interesting history behind them. I made a low, 26 layer billet and instead of forging bevels like I usually do, i did pure stock removal, so to have even-ish layers. I had a piece of 2700 year old bog wood (oak i think) from Scotland that made the handle. I know its not really the traditional handle style, but with what I had and time available it was what I could do. The yellow name is sort of a family/friend inside joke, plus a little endearment. Every piece of equipment, old jeep, welder, vise, swamp cooler, etc ... he would get a yellow or white fabric paint pen and write his last name on it, sometimes a year too. I took a picture of one signature on a mig welder he gave me, and my wife used her craft cutter computer program to trace it exactly and cut it out with vinyl. We thought it was appropriate. He was a great man, and taught me so much. He will be missed.
  5. My grandfather passed away Valentines day, the Saturday before he told me to go ahead and take the vise. I was able to haul it to its new home today. It openes and closes just fine. The screw seems in good shape, but when I get time I will take the whole thing apart, clean it up, and put it back together and back to use. The one thing I wont be cleaning is his fabric paint writing. He put that on everything he acquired. Wrote his name, and usually the year Any idea what the makers mark is here?
  6. Thank you. It was a blast to make! The steel work was fairly straightforward. However, I feel most accomplished in getting the angles of the wood (where koa meets ebony) and the front of the ebony into matching the roughly 15 degree angle I put on the heel of the knife... hard to explain what Im talking about. The angle where the ebony part of the handle meets the spine on the steel is not 90 degrees, its more of a 75/105 degree, and I wanted the wood lines to match and be parallel to that angle. For me, that was the hardest part of the whole build... LOL
  7. Someone from Flint Michigan?... i'd understand you being weary of water. LOL There are enough small lakes and streams, hidden gems, if you know where to look. They all live in AZ, with 3 being in the southeast part of the state
  8. glad to hear I'm not the only one! just recently found a knife I had been working on, 4 months earlier, because I set it down somewhere and 'lost' it
  9. the main difference is that CO has a higher binding affinity to hemoglobin and myoglobin in the blood and muscles. Neither gas has a color, or odor. CO2 is heavier than air and sinks and fills low pits, settles, CO tends to be lighter than air and accumulates in the top of structures... you know, where your breathing hole is. However it is more close to the average weight of 'air' and will mix more readily rather than have a separate layer. To answer your question about which, I have worked with both, I am also fairly inexperienced. With that label on myself I prefer propane. I don't have to babysit the flame, stack and rake the coals, worry about clinkers, ash, less likely to overheat or burn steel, though a hotspot in solid fuel forges can be advantageous. Maybe add your own experience level into the equation and ask yourself do you want to spend more time tending a fire, or swinging a hammer. For me, with my lesser experience, it was the latter.
  10. Also the 30th knife I have made. I have a spreadsheet and keep track. Steels: 1084, 15n20. 600 layers ‘organic’ ladder. Handle: curly, or fugured I've seen it called, Koa wood with gaboon ebony front. No end grain towards cutting edge. Overall length 14.5” blade length ~8.5” weight feels quite light at 8oz. Etched with ~20% ferric chloride, darkened after sanding with Walmart brand instant coffee. A few months ago my Aunt and Uncle went to Hawaii and he brought me back a block of curly Koa wood figuring I could make a pretty knife handle with it. Well, tonight I’m giving him that wood back, with a blade stuck in it. Originally I wanted a high layer perfectly even ladder pattern. And have it match the ‘chatoyance’ of the wood. I made dies for my 88# Anyang, but had too many bars on it and the steel bounced too much to get nice even rows. Then I thought what if the pattern is more ‘organic’ and flows like the wood itself does? So I risked the 640 layer biller and gave her a go on the bouncy dies. I really like how it turned out. Ends of the billet from 20 -> 80 -> 320. Then a hotcut and single fold to 640. Call it 600. Made a block from a slab of mesquite, had a clever idea. Just after the dark line on the top of the block, i have a strong hidden magnet about 1/8” from the carved channel the blade goes in that holds the edge off the wood when the blade is inserted. My lovely wife made some vinyl to put on the block. Now for my own critique: the ebony front ofthe handle should have been filed more carefully to leave less gap. I filled the gap with epoxy mixed w/black printer toner. Where I put the touchmark, it dished the steel and I couldn’t grind that deep on the whole thing to get it flat... still figuring when to stamp in the process... need to electro-etch... also the scratches in there I couldn’t get out without eating too much of the stamp. Self critique over.
  11. *Update: This knife has skinned and boned one 6x6 elk, and this weekend a mule deer and he reported to me today that it still shaves! Its nice to have feedback on something you make. Positive feedback is nice, but negative lets you improve
  12. Gave em out today (late Christmas due to scheduling people from 4 different cities) Everyone was extatic
  13. I made a 600-ish layer billet for a kitchen knife (wip in one of the pics), had a chunk left over. 4” x 2” x ~3/8”. My lovely wife suggested I make her dad a fishing knife for Christmas. Her dad, and all 3 brothers are avid fishers. I decided I’d challenge myself, and stretched that billet to 4 knives. One for each. Because I forged nearly to completion of shape, and the high layer count, the pattern is REALLY squished in there. Handles are canvas micarta, beded fully with epoxy. I cut a small channel in the inside perimeter of the scales and filled it with epoxy. Idea being kinda like an o-ring to ensure I get a good seal. Sanded up to 400 grit, added single direction checkering lines for grip. Cutlery pins, heads ground a lot thinner so they stand up less. Then each persons initials stamped on the head of the pin.
  14. I knew it was gonna be a slow day at work today, so I brought some scales and a checkering file. Never used one before, thought Id give it a try. Handles are for a set of 4 pattern welded fishing knives going to my Wife’s dad and 3 brothers. Micarta, sanded up to ~ 300 grit (A45 micron). Since they are for wet-work, you want some grip. I tried going in 2 directions on a test piece, I’m not talented (read patient) enough... yet... so single direction it is! Lol I will assemble then sharpen tonight I hope.