Jclonts82

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About Jclonts82

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Safford, AZ
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing
    Damascus patterns

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  1. the main difference is that CO has a higher binding affinity to hemoglobin and myoglobin in the blood and muscles. Neither gas has a color, or odor. CO2 is heavier than air and sinks and fills low pits, settles, CO tends to be lighter than air and accumulates in the top of structures... you know, where your breathing hole is. However it is more close to the average weight of 'air' and will mix more readily rather than have a separate layer. To answer your question about which, I have worked with both, I am also fairly inexperienced. With that label on myself I prefer propane. I don't have to babysit the flame, stack and rake the coals, worry about clinkers, ash, less likely to overheat or burn steel, though a hotspot in solid fuel forges can be advantageous. Maybe add your own experience level into the equation and ask yourself do you want to spend more time tending a fire, or swinging a hammer. For me, with my lesser experience, it was the latter.
  2. Also the 30th knife I have made. I have a spreadsheet and keep track. Steels: 1084, 15n20. 600 layers ‘organic’ ladder. Handle: curly, or fugured I've seen it called, Koa wood with gaboon ebony front. No end grain towards cutting edge. Overall length 14.5” blade length ~8.5” weight feels quite light at 8oz. Etched with ~20% ferric chloride, darkened after sanding with Walmart brand instant coffee. A few months ago my Aunt and Uncle went to Hawaii and he brought me back a block of curly Koa wood figuring I could make a pretty knife handle with it. Well, tonight I’m giving him that wood back, with a blade stuck in it. Originally I wanted a high layer perfectly even ladder pattern. And have it match the ‘chatoyance’ of the wood. I made dies for my 88# Anyang, but had too many bars on it and the steel bounced too much to get nice even rows. Then I thought what if the pattern is more ‘organic’ and flows like the wood itself does? So I risked the 640 layer biller and gave her a go on the bouncy dies. I really like how it turned out. Ends of the billet from 20 -> 80 -> 320. Then a hotcut and single fold to 640. Call it 600. Made a block from a slab of mesquite, had a clever idea. Just after the dark line on the top of the block, i have a strong hidden magnet about 1/8” from the carved channel the blade goes in that holds the edge off the wood when the blade is inserted. My lovely wife made some vinyl to put on the block. Now for my own critique: the ebony front ofthe handle should have been filed more carefully to leave less gap. I filled the gap with epoxy mixed w/black printer toner. Where I put the touchmark, it dished the steel and I couldn’t grind that deep on the whole thing to get it flat... still figuring when to stamp in the process... need to electro-etch... also the scratches in there I couldn’t get out without eating too much of the stamp. Self critique over.
  3. Jclonts82

    D2 skinner

    *Update: This knife has skinned and boned one 6x6 elk, and this weekend a mule deer and he reported to me today that it still shaves! Its nice to have feedback on something you make. Positive feedback is nice, but negative lets you improve
  4. Jclonts82

    Fishing knives, Christmas gifts

    Gave em out today (late Christmas due to scheduling people from 4 different cities) Everyone was extatic
  5. Jclonts82

    Fishing knives, Christmas gifts

    I made a 600-ish layer billet for a kitchen knife (wip in one of the pics), had a chunk left over. 4” x 2” x ~3/8”. My lovely wife suggested I make her dad a fishing knife for Christmas. Her dad, and all 3 brothers are avid fishers. I decided I’d challenge myself, and stretched that billet to 4 knives. One for each. Because I forged nearly to completion of shape, and the high layer count, the pattern is REALLY squished in there. Handles are canvas micarta, beded fully with epoxy. I cut a small channel in the inside perimeter of the scales and filled it with epoxy. Idea being kinda like an o-ring to ensure I get a good seal. Sanded up to 400 grit, added single direction checkering lines for grip. Cutlery pins, heads ground a lot thinner so they stand up less. Then each persons initials stamped on the head of the pin.
  6. Jclonts82

    Checkering file work

    I knew it was gonna be a slow day at work today, so I brought some scales and a checkering file. Never used one before, thought Id give it a try. Handles are for a set of 4 pattern welded fishing knives going to my Wife’s dad and 3 brothers. Micarta, sanded up to ~ 300 grit (A45 micron). Since they are for wet-work, you want some grip. I tried going in 2 directions on a test piece, I’m not talented (read patient) enough... yet... so single direction it is! Lol I will assemble then sharpen tonight I hope.
  7. I do about 90% of hand work on my 252# Hay Budden. I also have a 51# small Hay Budden, that is PERFECT (for me) for hand forging an integral bolster at the front of a knife, while also forging the butt. its right at 3" wide, forge both across the face, leaves little grind/clean up work. Plus the smaller horn has come in handy too. I also have a 125?-ish# Columbian that has a hardy hole that fits a few of the tools I have... too lazy to make the adapter for the larger anvil I guess...
  8. Jclonts82

    What do we know about Taps and Dies?

    So any recommendations on on a good quality brand to look for. I tried researching reviews and whatnot, seems like just a bunch of lay persons saying yeah it worked once, or it did great in aluminum or plastic... I initially bought a set of harbor freight stuff YEARS ago... made out of chineseium... and this was the first time I used them, broke 2 of the 1/4X20 taps making this: went to Ace and got a single Irwin brand tap and it barely made it through. Pipe tap turned into a spiral tap by the time I was done... all BEFORE I had hardened the steel, I suppose I should have fully annealed it, but was just lazy I guess. Anyways, this project was a blast, and I would like to do more like it in the future, but would need a real quality set.
  9. Well, it worked... kind of. I think there was too much surface area to try and get a good even impression with 4" of steel at a time. I'm going to try cutting down to 4 bottom bars and 3 top meaning just under 2" of steel worked at a time. The steel just bounced too much, and with the fairly high cycle rate on the Anyang, it was not very controllable to get a perfect even pattern. Of course... could have been the old IT joke: PEBKAC... problem exists between keyboard and chair... The goal with this pattern project was to have the ladder pattern match the curly wood for a handle. My uncle visited Hawaii a few months back and brought back a block of curly Koa wood figuring I could use it for a knife. Beautiful 3D pattern on it, I decided to make HIM a kitchen knife and give the wood back with a blade stuck into it. With the goal of having the steel match the wood, and the dies being a little less than controllable, I decided to still use it, with the goal of ending up with a slightly irregular, more organic, pattern in the steel. I still have a fair bit of grind work to do, but I had to check the pattern so I did a quick etch. Blade: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=di8aytGj7YI Wood: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CbiXcsRHRHY Once I remove some of the bars, and have another billet to test, I will update this thread with results.
  10. Jclonts82

    My first puukko. (Pic heavy)

    Here is a knife i had with a crack a while back that I broke is a few places just to check it out. Steel is 52100. This picture shows 2 grain sizes. The top, blade section near the tip is pretty good, smaller texture. The bottom is from near the end of the tang. Everytime I heated it for normalizing, and for the quench, I heated up the tang first. The idea being to let heat travel to blade so I didnt overheat the blade. It ended up getting the tang way too hot, and the grain totally shows it. Looks like compressed gravel.
  11. no 'sprechen sie deutsch' here unfortunately.
  12. The Anyang is not really a single hit hammer, if you time a heavier pedal stomp just right it can have a single hard hit, but if you hit it too soon I have seen the ram top out and actually kiss the key on the dies Not a good thing I imagine. However, practicing with the leaf spring should tell me what is gonna be the best way to go about it... I hope.. I will try to look for that book, right now on amazon its running about $100, I'm sure I can find used for less somewhere.
  13. Yeah, I welded the rods across the die, so the hammer will only hit about 4" of steel at the same time. I'm probably going to do this near, but not quite, 'welding heat'. say 1700-2000. I ran some quick tests last night on some mild steel 1/2" square stock that was just in the red, seemed to do just fine. Next I'm going to practice on some leaf springs that are about the thickness and width of my pattern welded billet to get a feel for higher carbon stuff under the dies. I've got a ~600 layer kitchen knife in the works, and desperately do not want to screw that up! Slow and repeated blows will be the key here. Sometimes steel tends to bounce off the Anyang 88 on the flat dies, cant have it do that and get out of alignment..., we will see if careful baby taps will get me there. *fingers crossed*
  14. Jclonts82

    New Stuff

    Oh yeah, your books are on my wish list this year for sure! And if they dont show up as gifts... I will gift to myself. Lol. I was just curious as to the layer count on that particular blade because of the nice chatoyance the picture seems to show. Namely the 4th picture in the original post. Also the method of stock removal then forge, or vice versa because the pattern is very even across the lengts of the blade. The one time ive personally made ladder damascus was cut, then forge. And the ‘steps’ werent as close as id like, so next time I’m forging groves, then grinding flat. I love your shared work. Always nice to have examples to aspire to!
  15. So months later I'm finally to a point that I am making some dies. One that I want to make are some ladder pattern dies for Damascus. I've only seen that done on a press before, but I imagine with some care and taking your time, it should work out on a hammer? I have done the version with cut the groves first, then forge flat. However I want some cleaner, closer patterns and I think that forging then grinding will probably get me there. Anybody have thoughts as to which direction the 1/4 round stock should be layered on the rectangular die? long bars mean forging 3" of knife at a time, short bars across the long face means forging 5" of knife at a time... My concerns are if I forge more blade at once, there might not be much room to expand, I'm unsure how accurate it is, but I have read from various makers that an average of 15% stretch can be expected. However if forging the short way, much more PSI so have to be careful not to go too deep, or shearing something... Anyone made ladder damascus dies for a power hammer?