Jclonts82

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About Jclonts82

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Safford, AZ
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing
    Damascus patterns

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  1. Road to Damascus

    Saying nickel doesn't draw as much is like describing smearing clay over a piece of ply wood, where the wood stays still and only the clay moves and will overlay on the end. The non-nickel steel doesn't fold over the end of the nickel layers on the end of a billet, all of it moves together. Steve is correct in that the nickel can diffuse very slightly, appearing that the nickel stays thicker, but if properly welded, the steel is one piece, with gradients of nickel running throughout. Think of a bell curve, it goes from like 1% to 20% to 50% to 75% to 50% to 20% back to 1% as you move through each layer. Highest concentration in the middle with simple diffusion of nickel atoms from high to low concentrations towards the outside.
  2. Road to Damascus

    As far as I know, really high/pure nickel is a diffusion barrier to arbor. I'm sure there is a carbon migration gradient with nickel content, inverse relation I expect. I will have to research sources to know, just for my own knowledge if nothing else.
  3. 52100 & W2 damascus skinner. Work in progress

    Good progress made. Forged then ground to shape, don't know if I like the thicker point by the tip, may grind it out. Interestingly while drilling holes for the tang it was extremely hard. I have a set of new cobalt drill bits and they just squealed on the tang. When I was done with forging, i left in the the forge, bricked the opening up and turned off the gas. The next morning it was still warm. I thought that would have left it plenty soft but you never know i guess. Had to drill in 1/16th increments just to get through it, while breaking 2 bits in the process. This pic was just before the heat treat While grinding, Horray, no cracks/delams/bad welds that I could see. Heat treat went well, preheated forge to 1500 +/- and heated until the color stopped changing on the blade about 15 minutes total, then immediately quenched in vegetable oil. No warping, no bad sounds. Immediately tempered to 340 (as close as I could set the toaster oven to 350 and have it stay there) for 1 hour. Repeated temper the next day. Just sarted finishing grind work and edge bevel. Also the manzanita wood for the handle is in the vacuum chamber with cactus juice as I type. Its a really hard & dense wood to begin with, but has a tendency to crack... thought why not try and stabilize it and see if that works? more pics to come as work progresses.
  4. forge welding

    Thank you for confirming that, I guessed it was junk/flux finding its way out. I had no problems with the original stack, or after i cut into 4 then stacked again, it was on the third layer increase where I hot-cut 2X and Z folded into 3rds. That is where the mini explosion happened. I usually start at the handle end and work away from me too. In doing the Z fold I closed a loose end on one side, while forming a pocket where the hot-cut folded part was. I believe thats where the pocket formed. Regardless, I think until I have better control and experience with hot cuts, I will square, cut, grind, then restack from here out. GREAT ADVICE on a more crowned/rounded hammer to help extrude any flux outta the weld. I had never thought to do that. Guess I need to customize one of my hammers. Again, Thank you.
  5. Vinyl Cutter for etching???

    Ran some tests, positive etch, negative etch, and even tried a stencil/sharpie resist (didn't work as well on that last one) Took a piece of 1095, quickly sanded up to 400 grit used contact paper to transfer to the metal in each case Used a sharpie to color the left side below then peel off the vinyl to see if the sharpie would resist. Sorry, guess i missed taking a pic of that one. Got impatient while peeling off the background and tore some of the letters off... whatever, its a proof of concept, doesnt need to be perfect. Right out of the acid (straight ferric chloride, no dilution)peeled the vinyl, good lines sharpie/stencil resist didnt work that well, maybe if i let it go a long time and got a good topography change and sanded over it it would work, but using the vinyl for the resist is much easier. Takehomes, this was pretty hard to pick out the letters &/or the background at these small sizes. I will have The Wife Unit make the letter lines thicker for this pattern. Set the cutter on a deeper setting if using small shapes. But most of all... it works!
  6. forge welding

    One pieceof advice I have to add that may be of some help: I have only done a few (7-8?) stacks of 'damascus' and I am fairly inexperienced, but one easy to notice thing for me was the feel of the steel under the hammer when setting the welds. To me I could feel a change in resistance and rebound with the hammer as the spaces between the layers would vanish, I would almost describe it as the billet becomes more firm as the welds are set. So my process while overlapping blows was to also take a mental note of how each blow felt as I moved down the billet. If an area felt too 'soft' I would back up and go over it again before continuing down the billet. In my mind, imagining the steel and knowledge of how the physics of materials work, if a spot felt soft, then there was still space between the two materials and therefore a pocket that must be expelled by pressing the steels together in a directional manner. I'm very limited in my experience, but I do enjoy sharing what I have learned. The change is quite subtle, but if you pay attention you can probably feel it. As a side note, my last stack was probably a little too big for my own experience, but I did it anyways. I had one spot that on the 2nd welding pass that still felt soft... I decided to give it a really good whack, about twice as hard as all the other hammer hits. Well there WAS a gas pocket trapped in there, and it made its way out the side, at probably 4X the speed of sound as I thought someone shot a 300 Weatherby next to my head. Scared me, ears ringing for 5 minutes, neighbors coming out to look around, and I wear earplugs most of the time in the shop. I wonder if some flux was trapped and vaporized? or a hot gas jet met atmosphere and just detonated as the gas mixed with oxygen? I don't know, but I will take a LOT more care to have good control and overlapping hammer blows in an attempt to NEVER have anything like that happen again.
  7. Vinyl Cutter for etching???

    My wife has one. Silhouette craft cutter, and I have been wondering the same thing... I will do a test tonight and post a pic so we can find out.
  8. Show me your anvil

    Ok thats neat!
  9. Show me your anvil

    Yup, sure enough, I looked it over and looked it up and its a Columbian. Thank you for that input, at least now I know if someone asks... Though I''ve wondered about people desperately needing to find out the make and year of their anvil, it doesn't really change anything, still an anvil, naming it doesn't give it magical properties... I can see wanting to know if its all cast iron, all steel, or iron with steel face. Or maybe to sell it to someone that has a 'need' to know... but for using it, either is an anvil and works for you, or its not. I'm perhaps ignorant when it comes to these things... just thinking out-loud, with my keyboard. I tried hammering on the new big HB and I have to say I think prefer it over the other. Seemed like I got more work done per hammering time put in, but may just be excitement at trying out the new hardware. Also I took a wire wheel on a grinder to the little hay budden , actually stamped 50-something pounds, and it did have a steel plate on the top, its so unused that it didn't show up with all the dust and whatnot caked on the surface. Decided to do the right thing and wire wheel the whole anvil and rub it down with BLE. Probably will do the same with the Columbia, at least get that awful silver paint off it, whoever decided to do THAT?!?!?!?
  10. 52100 & W2 damascus skinner. Work in progress

    So the forging is done, I decided to put a twist pattern in it. I have done one before with 1095 & 15n20 (5/8" thick) and it went off without a hitch, however this animal was something different. I had MUCH more resistance while twisting the stock, it was a little thicker (3/4 - 1") so I expected that, but it was requiring about 4 times the force to twist than the other. It made me nervous enough to stop at I think 2 full twists. Oh well, should look neat anyways. Sorry, at work no pics at the moment. I have started grind work. Cousin wants a fairly skinny handle on it, with a slight taper towards the blade, may be unconventional, but whatever! Question. What are the Forum's opinions on the edge geometry and / or grinding bevel angles for a skinning knife? I'm leaning towards a flat grind for the majority of the blade and a really acute angle for the edge bevel. Somewhere in the vicinity of 15-17 degrees? I would Really appreciate any thoughts and insights on the matter
  11. Strange etching

    First spend a few minutes sanding/polishing up the test steels. I find a nice fine sanding can give you more reliable results, usually at least 400 grit (about 40-45 mesh, or about 40 micron, whatever your local abrasives are measured in) then a rinse/paper towel with acetone to clean it of any oils, fingerprints included. After that dries I etch. What acid, and concentration, are you using for an etch?
  12. Show me your anvil

    Just finished mounting up my newest anvil to a big salt cedar stump I cut down. Decided to put the prevoius anvils on top for the fun of it. Bottom is 253# hay budden Middle: not sure of the make... never looked into it, but made all of my projects have so far been made on it, save the first 3-4 cotton picker spindles I messed around with on the top little guy. Top: first time I actually looked at markings and serial numbers was when taking this pic... whaddya know, also a hay budden. Question: Did hay budden ever make a cast iron only anvil? On my little ( 30#?) anvil I don't see a welded on top plate of steel, so its either all iron, or all steel... any thoughts?
  13. A collection of improvised anvils

    Stopped at my grandfather's old metalworking shop and took some pics of this/these frankensteined beauties.. That plate on the right is enormous. This old man has one of just about everything... except his 25# trip hammer he sold about 3 minths before I decided to take up the craft... shucks.
  14. Heat treating D2 help

    From an app called "Heat Treat"
  15. Fluxing with molten borax

    Steve is correct, its not glue. However, you can use it in this manner to get as early of an oxygen barrier as possible short of using a canister. I did this recently as an expirement and it worked... ok-ish. I started a charcoal fire in an old rivet forge and placed the lions share of a box of 20 mule team borax in an old coated cast iron dutch oven. It took a long time to melt, ended up using a weed burner on the top to help it along. In the end I got about 2, maybe 3 cups of the liquid at the consistency of really cold syrup. It worked, but in the long run, I think sprinkling powder flux between layers probably is much more effective.