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I Forge Iron

Jclonts82

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About Jclonts82

  • Rank
    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Safford, AZ
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing
    Damascus patterns

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  1. I will post updates as I get the gumption to work in the heat of July in Southern AZ, and as days off permit. Its a good sized billet, after cutting the ends off I have a 20" X 2.5" X 5/8" bar. cutting that into 5 equal parts then forging, as identical as I can, blades from the pieces. I planning on an octagonal, hidden tang, similar to Japanese style kitchen knifes. but not doing the collar. a simple 3/16" stainless plate on the front that matches the handle dimensions.
  2. Well I decided to just try it. Had my 25 layer pieces at about 1/2” thick. And the 80CrV2 is 3/8” thick. I went with 2 center pieces 80CrV2 and 2 cladding pieces at 25 layers each. So 1:0.75:1 ratio. It welded up just fine, consequently its the first forge-welding I've done without borax... just clean surfaces, reducing atmosphere, and a soak in kerosene.
  3. I’m making a set of 5 matching kitchen knives for 5 sisters doing 50-layer Damascus on each side, with a 80crv2 core. I have never done a core, and an looking for some guidance on thickness/ratios of the three layers. I know it varies depending on how much core you want, just wondering if anyone has any experience or what you had done in the past that worked well. Hopefully i can forge evenly enough to keep the core centered, and keeping the pattern even-ish from side to side.
  4. They were about 5/8” square-ish.. and about 5” long. 5 total bars. Mig welded the ends with a handle. At Welding heats forged down to anout 1.75 inches tall. Generally 5-6 light taps (88# anyang) compressing the stack then one hit on each side to keep it flat. Forged it to about 1/4 inch wide and generally to length/shape. 1/2 way forged bevels until edge was a bit over 1/8” width. Ground until edge was a touch over 1/16” then did full heat treat.
  5. This was my 3rd or 4th piece of Damascus. Worn out band saw blade from the hardware store that cuts metal, and pallet strapping that fell outside the right of way from a railroad track. All hand forged.
  6. Latest work. Still need to elecrto-etch mark. 26? Layer, 5 bar alternating twist about 10 twists each, some more, some less. Wanted to see how different twist counts played out. Stabilized (cactus juice) and dyed birdseye maple handle with brass spacer. 1084 and 15n20. 9 inch blade measured as straight line from heel to tip 14.25 overall length 8.2 oz weight. ... huh it wont let me upload pictures, gives me an error... I put em on imgur... will try again in a reply I guess The images are 37 inches x 37 inches and 21 megs in size. The reworked imag
  7. I have a bin with the broken pieces from testing like TP says, also damascus billet cutoffs, pieces too small etc... I plan on trying my hand at canister damascus with all these random scraps and leftovers.. I'm thinking I will soak everythingin vinegar to get any scale off, take to wire wheel, then just give it a shot?
  8. Good friend finally found “the one” in June, got engaged. I thought a neat idea would be make a wedding carving set. And seeing as the wedding was end of December I had a good deal of time to try something new. Decided on a mosaic pattern, went for explosion, but got somewhat lost when re-squaring and ended up with more of a lazy star. Oh well. She has Greek heritage so I found some Wild olive wood that came from Greece for the handles made the “star” then sandwiched that with 2 medium layer twists, then top and bottom with a few alternating thick layers
  9. The wood is apricot, stabilized. The pins from Knife and gun, or maybe Amazon. Don’t remember...
  10. He was ecstatic... just needs time to go coyote hints now.
  11. Sometimes its pure economics. On my damascus i always forge to shape. Cutting can often lead to material waste. Forging to shape, for me, means i keep more of the stock and waste less.
  12. Friend of mine asked for a special project. He and his grandfather planted an apricot tree when he was a little kid. The tree has since died, and he harvested some of the wood. Asked me to make a coyote skinner with that wood as a handle. I took the wood, dried it fully, stabilized it twice just for good measure, then set to work on the steel. Made a billet of 320 layers by the math. Probably more like 270 after losses. And made a shape roughly to what he drew on a napkin. With his requested specs: Not a super-sharp point, but one that can get into tight places and be a good slice
  13. I stabilize with a vacuum chamber and cactus juice. This burl is VERY old, and has a lot of spongy, almost rotting wood in it. So it it a resin similar to plastic-ish. I have used HCl to etch, but it can be more challenging to get the concentration just right... ive gotten ‘pinholes’ in the nickel layers where it seemed to pick a spot and eat through. I don’t get that with FeCl. Plus the HCl makes more noxious fumes. When diluted correctly it has about the same (to me) topography changes but often leaves the darks a more of a gray color to me. I do not heat the FeCl,
  14. Right on! my buffing wheel seems like 50-75 layers of soft linnen, with concentric rings sewn about 1” apart, its a 7-9” wheel. The last sewn ring is about 1.5” from the outer layer. Been a while since I posted here, forgot the commercial link rule... lol But to know which one I use for research purposes, one could search the “South American rainforest’s major river” for “MG Chemicals Ferric Chloride Copper Etchant Solution, 4L Liquid Bottle” and do just fine.
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