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I Forge Iron


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About Stash

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    Junior Member

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    SE PA

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  • Location
    SE PA
  • Occupation
    Self employed- Landscaping

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  1. Welcome, Freddie. In my previous life I spent a lot of time at the nurseries in your area- the garden spot of NJ. I bought a lot of plants. Enjoy the new passion. It gets in your blood. Steve
  2. Great looking shop, RP. Way to make a lady happy. Steve
  3. Stash

    6" Post Vise

    Looks good and seems to be complete. How are the threads on the screw and box? That's the heart and soul of a vise. Steve
  4. At 350 smackers, I would just keep looking. Maybe something not gold plated. Steve
  5. I knew a guy who ate himself out of an F16. He became a statistic. Steve
  6. Hey- depends where you are in SCPA, if you are anywhere near Reading, go a little east to Moses Glick, in Fleetwood PA. He has all kind of treasures and sells them by the pound. Worth a road trip, if he's open. There's also a yard in Lancaster, but the name escapes me right now. I can search it out if you want. Steve
  7. Hey Daniel- there is a sticky for finding proper anvil height, I tend to have it roughly knuckle height, I have one anvil a bit higher for more detailed stuff. Experiment a bit- adjust the height with wood and work it for a while, to see what works for you. 'Radius the edges' simply means to round them over. Get a piece of 1/2"round stock- that will have a radius of 1/4" Use different stock sizes to give yourself a hands- on visual reference. Like Frosty said. make each edge a different radius, and leave some of an edge sharp. You can do the radiusing with a grinder and a flap disc, or do it old- skool with a file. Steve Anvil height, how can you tell if it is the right height
  8. Yeah I have a list of stuff to make/improvise/find to get the best use of this tool. What is huge for me is the large, flat and dead- level surface. I've been improvising for years, and this will make my life easier. Everything else is gravy. I spent my last 2 days of shop time re arranging things around the new addition. The forging area stayed the same, but the rest of the area has a new and more efficient flow pattern. Thanks for the advice. Steve
  9. Hey Dave, I have 100# and 103# anvils- I'll trade you for 1 even up. Steve Well, it didn't follow me home- it just showed up. Steve
  10. Yeah I got the e mail this AM, cancelled my hotel and spent the day generally bummed out. I think quad state is going to be a go for me this year. The next meeting on my agenda is late April at Center for Metal arts, in Johnstown PA . It will be a combined meeting of the eastern and western PA groups, as well (I think) as a MD group, and maybe OH. I have a feeling that one might be a bit touch- and go also. Steve
  11. You know what we say here- pictures, or it didn't happen. Steve
  12. May you have peace. Blessings Steve
  13. Caplet on the base and weight (200) on front foot seems to make it a Trenton. Looks to be in good nick, with minor edge damage. You have a great anvil, and she’ll ring like a bell. All you need to do is polish the face with hot iron. Enjoy it. Steve
  14. Good on ya. I'm happy with mine. For general purpose work I have 36#, 60# and 120#, all ceramic. I would expect for knife work or finer tooling you would want finer grits. I got my first batch from Amazon. I later used the sources listed in the suppliers folder in the knife- making section of this site. That is probably your best bet- tried and tested suppliers. I think I saw starter packs from some of the vendors with a few grits in multiple grades. Steve
  15. Mark Aspery does talk about using a bull pin for a hammer eye drift in his second book on leafwork. He just flattens it down to an oval shape, no specific thickness mentioned. Probably just a nice even taper the whole length. You weren't dreaming. Steve
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