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I Forge Iron

Stash

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About Stash

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    Junior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    SE PA

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  • Location
    SE PA
  • Occupation
    Self employed- Landscaping

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  1. How big are they? Kinda looks like the old Good n Plenty candy. (or were the black ones Mike and Ikes? I forget now.) Steve
  2. Chris- the fiber masonry blade George mentioned should do the trick for you. The issue with those blades is that they will wear down and you will be constantly be readjusting your depth of cut. They will work. tho. Be sure you get the one made for wet cutting- a lot of those blades are for dry cutting. I prefer the segmented diamond blades vs the solid rim- solid rim heats up quicker, even with the water spray but for 2 cuts it should work for you. I don't really have a recommendation for you- I bought in bulk from Diamond Warehouse ( I think that was the name), and I was getting 4 1/2", 7" a
  3. Hey Chris- I've cut hundreds of lineal feet with a similar rig. Worm drive skil saw, rigged a stepdown from garden hose to 1/4" flex tube with a small ball valve spraying on the blade. I used quality diamond blades, probably $60- 75 each, and I was able to do it in one pass, full depth, using a rip guide/ board clamped in place.You could easily make multiple passes with shallow cuts to do it. Make sure to support the cutoff side- it will break off before the cut is finished. Make sure you plug into a GFCI. The material is too thin to effectively use feather and wedges. I've also made these cut
  4. Hey Emile, welcome to the site. That is not like the Acme anvils we have here in the states. That is (I believe) a north German style double horned anvil, and she is a beauty. I can't help with ID beyond that. As far as price, that is dependent on where you are posting from. Here in the US that could fetch easily $2000 if it is indeed 200K. DO NOT GRIND on the face. You might want to edit your profile to give us an idea of your location- someone here might be just down the street from you. Steve
  5. Hey 671- be aware that all walnut species contain the alleopathic toxin 'juglone' in all parts, including chipped branches and leaves. It will kill tomatoes and peppers if mulched with them, as well as many annual flowers, perennials and shrubs and trees. The toxin biodegrades in time, I couldn't tell you how much time it takes. You might want to google ' juglone toxicity in ornamental plants" or some such wording. Lots of sites have lists of plants organized by yes/no/maybe in regards to the toxins effect on them. During my time as a landscape contractor I had lists of plants I could plant s
  6. Late to the party, but glad to hear you are doing well, Das. Prayers for a quick recovery. I took my wife to the ER a few years back experiencing similar symptoms as yours. Doc had to remove a bad gall bladder as well as a ready to pop appendix. Thanks for modern meds, she just had 3 incisions. Take it easy. Steve
  7. Awww, that's a cutie. Can't help with ID, but I can recommend you don't use your 4kg sledge on it. Steve
  8. I've been tracking things since your first post. My thought on the issue would be to first identify the BS stuff and separate it out from the other junk. Sort the junk into scrap and viable sellable stuff and then deal appropriately. This is getting the place cleaned up and showing husband you are serious about making it work. You will need to take a serious look at the building- maybe bring in a contractor friend for a realistic appraisal, to access the viability of keeping/repairing it. This might end up forcing your hand or give you some ammo in favor of restoration. This is where the heavy
  9. That is pretty much what I have. I have a simple cap for when I'm not using it. I did have one of those wind operated turbine spinnymathings, but strong winds this past spring sent bearings flying all over the place, so I pulled it off and went with (as my son called it) my hilbilly cap. Steve
  10. TJ- you will be ok with a 10' run of 12" pipe. Thats what I'm running in my setup. I did a side sucker- a 4' long 13" square steel box that passes thru the wall of my shed. The stack is mounted on the end of the outside section and is braced to the building. The inner section has a mousehole shaped opening on the end, and it is placed at the edge of my firepot, just a few inches above it. Doing it this way avoided the need for roof penetration and the leaks that usually come along with them. I have a great draft with this setup. By the way, the stack is galvanized and never gets so hot that it
  11. I concur with Anvil, re the gas saver and the pipe clamps. You can make pipe clamps any size you want. Steve
  12. Well you still would have an 8" throat that will restrict the flow. If you are marginally handy with sheet metal work, you have another option. Cut your hood down so you have a 12" opening, then fab up your adapter to go from there to the 12" flue pipe. You should be able to do it with sheet metal screws and metallic tape if needed. The chimbly guys were probably quoting you for double wall stainless pipe, which is very spendy. You just need single wall galv ducting and watch your detailing where you pass thru the roof. You won't get hot enough to burn off the zinc. For a handy person this
  13. Thomas- is the WI seller Jeff Funk? I recall him having had cut up a bridge a while ago. He is in MT. Steve
  14. If I recall, Rowan is one of the common names for the Sorbus genus, I think in your area is Sorbus aucuparia, other common name "mountain ash". Not a true ash, but I'm sure it has proved itself to be useful for you. Just saying..... Steve
  15. My Bader is a single speed, it suits MY needs fine. I have 2 sizes of drive wheels in case I wanted to change things a bit. Steve
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