Stash

Members
  • Content count

    275
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Stash

  • Rank
    Junior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    SE PA

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    [email protected]

Converted

  • Location
    SE PA
  • Occupation
    Self employed- Landscaping

Recent Profile Visitors

4,321 profile views
  1. I've seen most of the variations and have tried them all. I currently like my forge, then quench tank ( old ss fire extinguisher) then my anvil. horn to the right (I'm right handed). I pull the hot steel, 1 1/2 steps to the right and I'm banging away. I have a second anvil perpendicular to my main one just a 90 degree turn to the right. That is the current iteration and seems to work well for me. The vise is 180 degrees from me, 1 1/2 steps behind me. Steve
  2. Your description of the 'rectangular hole' makes me think you might have an older (pre 1830 ish) vise. On those older vises, the mounting bracket had a tenon on the end that passed thru the hole in the leg and a corresponding hole in the spring, and was held in place with a key passed thru a slot in the tenon. You can re create that old timey style, or do a simple u- bolt kinda thing to attach the mounting bracket. Getter mounted! Steve
  3. "I want to smelt....." Steve
  4. I will share this with my daughter- in- law, a native (not Maori) Kiwi. Thanks. Steve
  5. You could turn the other end into a cross pien but that would be a lot of grinding. You might just round the other face a bit to get your own version of a rounding hammer. Find yourself a cross pien at a flea market for cheap and add that to your arsenal. Steve
  6. I pull them out a bit so they stay ~2 1/2- 3' long, bend and push one end into the ground, put a golf ball on the other end. I keep them scattered thru the garden, the grand kids love to play with the 'boingy flowers'. Steve
  7. You want to have some fun with it? Make wrench hangers out of old rusty open end wrenches. Bend the handle near the working end ~90 degrees, bend the end of the wrench tips up, and punch a few holes in the handle. Screw them to wood of your choice. If you bend the other end also, each wrench can hold 4 box wrenches. Steve
  8. Got my pop corn, waiting on the next chapter. OOOOOHHH, shivers of anticipation. Thank you. Steve
  9. That's pretty bogus, to pull a move like that, but it tends to be the way things work anymore. Years ago, I agreed with the seller on a price for my backhoe/loader. Before I went to pick it up, another guy offered him $2k more, but the seller turned him down. He gave me the guy's number, in case I wanted to flip it for the profit. That was some integrity you don't see too often. Anyways, keep looking- there's an anvil (or more) with your name on it. Steve
  10. I'm still looking for DB Cooper- he owes me half a suitcase of cash. Any info for me? Steve
  11. Good looking stand, my friend. Steve
  12. Former IFI member DSW (RIP) took some classes there and spoke very highly of the place. IIRC, he also did a photo thread you could find here. Could be up to 4-5 years ago. Steve
  13. That's right, "I did it myyyyy wayyyyy...". I mentioned my technique a few threads back, and due to a harmonic convergence, will show how I did it. I acquired a new anvil, got a few nice ash logs ( drat you, Emerald Ash Borer) and happened to have my phone in my pocket, so here goes. First image shows the whole rig ready to fly. The router sled is sitting in the frame, the log is shimmed up so it's just under the frame, the router bit is set to take a 1/4" bite from the high spot (2nd image). The frame is riding on saw horses, but can be anything to be level to each other and higher than the log. The router bit is 3/4" straight, and the sled base is just a piece of 1/4" luan. Next we see the first few passes. I work from right to left- run the sled across the top, trigger off, pull it back and shift the whole sled over ~3/4", make your next pass. Next image shows the end of the first pass over the whole log. You can see it didn't take a lot of the surface. UNPLUG THE ROUTER, drop the bit down 1/4 ", plug in and take another pass. That leaves about 4" left of the rough surface. Might as well drop down 1/8" more (UNPLUG THE ROUTER) to finish that side, flip the log over, shim up as needed. The 2nd side took 1 bite to completely flatten, but I took a few more bites at 1/4" to tweak the final height. From this point you can do whatever you want to finish. You can rout the bottom to leave a rim of wood to sit on the floor. You can rout an inset the size of your anvil's footprint in the top, or just mount your anvil with your preferred method. Hope this helps. Looks like a happy coleslaw to me! Steve I tried twice to get the images in order to no avail. Hope you can figure them out. Sorry. Steve Mod note: images put in the right order.
  14. Now, scone lighting is a completely different category. That is what is used to illuminate your afternoon tea! Steve
  15. I flatten anvil stumps with a jig I cobbled up for my router that I originally made for flattening large slabs of wood. I made and attached a larger rectangular base to my router, and welded 2 pieces of angle spaced the width of the base with some flat bar, so the router and base rides in the angle like a sled. I then set the frame on whatever I need to set it just above the height of the stump- concrete block, or large timbers, etc. Chuck up a 3/4" flat bit and set the depth to take ~ 1/4" max cut, run it in the sled to cut a flat channel, slide the whole rig over, and take another cut. Keep doing it till the log is flat, flip it over and do the other side, et voila, you have a flat top and bottom. I could have done a log in the time it took me to type this. Hope this was clear as mud. Steve Mod Note: Link to the related post with photos Flattening a stump, Sinatra style