• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Stash

  • Rank
    Junior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    SE PA

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    [email protected]


  • Location
    SE PA
  • Occupation
    Self employed- Landscaping

Recent Profile Visitors

4,213 profile views
  1. Good looking stand, my friend. Steve
  2. Former IFI member DSW (RIP) took some classes there and spoke very highly of the place. IIRC, he also did a photo thread you could find here. Could be up to 4-5 years ago. Steve
  3. That's right, "I did it myyyyy wayyyyy...". I mentioned my technique a few threads back, and due to a harmonic convergence, will show how I did it. I acquired a new anvil, got a few nice ash logs ( drat you, Emerald Ash Borer) and happened to have my phone in my pocket, so here goes. First image shows the whole rig ready to fly. The router sled is sitting in the frame, the log is shimmed up so it's just under the frame, the router bit is set to take a 1/4" bite from the high spot (2nd image). The frame is riding on saw horses, but can be anything to be level to each other and higher than the log. The router bit is 3/4" straight, and the sled base is just a piece of 1/4" luan. Next we see the first few passes. I work from right to left- run the sled across the top, trigger off, pull it back and shift the whole sled over ~3/4", make your next pass. Next image shows the end of the first pass over the whole log. You can see it didn't take a lot of the surface. UNPLUG THE ROUTER, drop the bit down 1/4 ", plug in and take another pass. That leaves about 4" left of the rough surface. Might as well drop down 1/8" more (UNPLUG THE ROUTER) to finish that side, flip the log over, shim up as needed. The 2nd side took 1 bite to completely flatten, but I took a few more bites at 1/4" to tweak the final height. From this point you can do whatever you want to finish. You can rout the bottom to leave a rim of wood to sit on the floor. You can rout an inset the size of your anvil's footprint in the top, or just mount your anvil with your preferred method. Hope this helps. Looks like a happy coleslaw to me! Steve I tried twice to get the images in order to no avail. Hope you can figure them out. Sorry. Steve Mod note: images put in the right order.
  4. Now, scone lighting is a completely different category. That is what is used to illuminate your afternoon tea! Steve
  5. I flatten anvil stumps with a jig I cobbled up for my router that I originally made for flattening large slabs of wood. I made and attached a larger rectangular base to my router, and welded 2 pieces of angle spaced the width of the base with some flat bar, so the router and base rides in the angle like a sled. I then set the frame on whatever I need to set it just above the height of the stump- concrete block, or large timbers, etc. Chuck up a 3/4" flat bit and set the depth to take ~ 1/4" max cut, run it in the sled to cut a flat channel, slide the whole rig over, and take another cut. Keep doing it till the log is flat, flip it over and do the other side, et voila, you have a flat top and bottom. I could have done a log in the time it took me to type this. Hope this was clear as mud. Steve Mod Note: Link to the related post with photos Flattening a stump, Sinatra style
  6. I would call that a sconce lamp. A very nice one, too. Steve
  7. Look up Wayne Coe- he is a member here, his website has great info, ideas and parts to do a complete grinder. He'll probably check in here soon. Steve
  8. Finally got rid of my flip phone, and this is the first app I got. All I gotta say is 'Yee haw'. Steve
  9. At $.10 per pound, I could spring for an 800# er. Steve
  10. I had 5' ramps on my equipment trailer, and every time I went to load my Kubota backhoe the frame of the back of the hoe would drag on the ground as the front end hit the top of the ramp.After getting a quote for over $500 (US) for fabricated ramp extensions, I set the ends of the ramp on a chunk of 6x6 timber and set a few 5' heavy planks on the 6x6. Presto change-o I had a 10' ramp at a lesser angle. Problem solved, with stuff I had lying around. I had a ready source for 6x6 chunks and heavy planks so when they wore out , ....... 'If all you have is a hammer, everything starts to look like a nail' Steve
  11. You're on the list, Thomas. Good luck and quick recovery. Steve
  12. Quick- go get a lottery ticket while you're mojo is still working! Steve
  13. As Frosty said, welcome aboard. Have you looked into New England School of Metalwork? They're right there in Auburn, and have some great opportunities in black and blade smithing. I drove over 450 miles to take a class. You could probably ride a bike. Steve
  14. I dunno- maybe I'll be the wet blanket here. I've never used a shopsmith, but over the years I've come to the opinion that any, repeat ANY tool that purports to 'do it all' has the ability to 'do it all' but just not very well. Kind of like the 'jack of all trades, master of none'. It all really depends on what you ask your tool to do. I bought a quality ( single purpose) tablesaw as my first tool purchase many moons ago, and worked it and tweaked it so I can get a high level of precision from it. I have done the same over the years with the other equipment I have purchased. I have had some multi tasking tools, but as I said previously, they didn't meet my standards for performance. That said, you have the unit, might as well do what you can to make it fit your needs. Just be aware if limitations. Steve
  15. Oh man. Back in my ole tree climbing days I had a foreman who was constantly whistling "This old man", out of tune, no less. Cringe... 'This old man, he played 1, he played knick nack......... aaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhh it's back! Steve