01tundra Posted July 9, 2012 Author Share Posted July 9, 2012 I wish I could have one like that but I have a concave bottom Brooks and she sings!!!! So she sits in sand to keep her quite. Before I added the sand and roofing felt, I was tapping on the anvil with a hammer very lightly and my neighbor that's building about 3,000 feet up from me through the woods heard it ringing. I couldn't believe how loud it was, but even more unbelievable is how quiet it is now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01tundra Posted July 9, 2012 Author Share Posted July 9, 2012 I do have an anvil question I was hoping you guys could help me with now that I have everything set up. I know from reading that there should be a portion of the face that's rounded off to make working on the face/edge easier. If you look at the first picture you can clearly see where the first few inches have been rounded off at some point, but the opposite side has not been. Now that my anvil is set up on it's stand, the rounded off edge is on my far side. Should I use a flap disc to make my near side match the radius on the far side? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knots Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 I like the way you have located your anvil. You have 360 deg access around your anvil. I would preserve the opposite edge - as is - so that you will always have the option of working either way. If you want either sharp edge or rounded edge on the far side all you need to do is walk around and hammer away. Most smiths wouldn't think of grinding an edge other than maybe just softening the edge very slightly. However since one is already rounded enjoy it but keep the other as is. Just my 2cents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatfudd Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 I agree, don't change the edges right now. Maybe someday in the distant future you may decide you need to round the edges on other parts of the anvil but I really doubt that will ever happen. The way it is configured now is about perfect for almost anything you would want to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01tundra Posted July 10, 2012 Author Share Posted July 10, 2012 10-4, glad I asked! Thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pug}{maN Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 you on the Garage Journal Board ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 I always want the edges on both sides of the anvil to match. I place a straight edge on the face about 3/8" back on the horn end and 0" about 3" from the heel (or on your anvil to about the front of the hardy hole) and draw a line. I then grind to the line to radius the edges to match. You will use near side and far side edges so need both edges to match. The tapered radius allows you to have varied radii as suits the present project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01tundra Posted July 10, 2012 Author Share Posted July 10, 2012 you on the Garage Journal Board ? No sir. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 I don't need the edges to match, I just use the one that's right for what I am doing---and work all the way around the anvil at times (or actually I have several anvils in different orientations to hand.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01tundra Posted July 10, 2012 Author Share Posted July 10, 2012 I don't need the edges to match, I just use the one that's right for what I am doing---and work all the way around the anvil at times (or actually I have several anvils in different orientations to hand.) I think the best thing to do at this point is for me to leave it alone and learn to use it like other's have suggested. Then, once I actually have a little working knowledge, I can make somewhat educated decisions and adjust things as the need arises. It's way easier to grind later if need be, rather than adding back. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Well, you are a little over 100 miles from me. Call and plan to come over for a visit. We can look at equipment and play in the shop. Look into the http://www.appalachiablacksmiths.com and their regional forge at Fiddler's Grove, Lebanon, TN, hosted by Fiddler's Grove, contact Daniel Pelletier, (615) 330-0901 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 I kind of wish I had a sharpish corner on any part of my anvil. Cold shuts be xxxxxx a nice square corner comes in handy every now and again. Anvil block is on the tooling list as soon as I can convince the daughter she really needs to strike for daddy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fluidsteel Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 Hahaha!! All this worry about radi and that's all you have on yours. Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knots Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 I wish I could have one like that but I have a concave bottom Brooks and she sings!!!! So she sits in sand to keep her quite. I used my PW sitting on a couple of disks of 1/2" plywood and all sitting on sand for about 12 years. The main drawbacks that I found was that the anvil shifted under use and had to be rotated so that it would shift back into position under use. I am a convert to Z clamps. My personal conviction is that if the rim of the largest bell at St Peters were z clamped down to a firmly padded, flat surface, it would not ring. Like wise neither will your anvil. This hypothesis should be easily proved ( for your anvil :) if not the St Peters bell ) if you were to make a couple of Z clips and they were used to secure the anvil to a reasonably rigid horizontal surface, such a barn floor or a couple of pieces of waste 3/4" plywood. Use the two pieces of 30 pound roofing felt act as a gasket that will compress and assure that the entire perimeter of the anvil base is in contact with the surface to which the anvil is being mounted. Two of my anvils are Z clipped. Both were loud before but now basically go clunk. I see no reason this method will not work for your Brooks and that you can have your desired three leg stand. Give it a go and report back the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panday Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 Wow, that's a lot heavier stuff than what it looked like in your other thread. Did you ever weigh it? What was the reasoning for scalloping the side to the shape of the anvil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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