jacobd

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About jacobd

  • Rank
    Junior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Waco Texas
  • Interests
    bladesmithing primarily, along with other general blacksmithing, ammo reloading, outdoorsy stuff, 4 wheeled vehicles that have a very robust go pedal, so on

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  • Location
    Waco Texas
  • Biography
    Im 15
  • Interests
    Metal/wood im in shop class but mostly metal
  • Occupation
    High School

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  1. Thanks! I appreciate the advice. I'm not very experienced yet but I've generated a respectable amount of scale this far. If that's a decent measure of experience. I'm having trouble getting even heat on a blade that's a little longer than the hotspot in the coal forge, and figured I would do better in a gas forge, atleast in respect to heat control. I ended up burning a very small spot on a blade I have 8 or so hours in, and decided for knives at least I want a little bit better control.
  2. Hi guys, the shop I share has a regular coal forge, but I want to build a smallish propane forge for working on knives as in the past I've ruined knives due to improper heat control (burning them and yelling bad things). I just want to use 8-10" diameter piece of nongalvanized lightweight stove pipe, line it with Inswool, and use a couple firebricks along the floor, maybe add some ITC later. I plan only on it being 12-16" long, and with 2 inches of wool lining it. Recommendations on a burner to buy or build to suit that size? I don't plan on welding in it. Also, I've been looking on hightemptools but while I do have some disposable income I am on a college budget, so recommendations for where to buy and what to buy would be awesome. I could probably build it but I have no experience with gas forges and am sure you guys could help. If you wanted to build a forge that size on a budget how would yall go about it? Or should I just buy the smaller devil forge on ebay. I was hoping to get out cheaper than $180. Not including bottle and reg. My main question is about the burner but I'm all ears to anything you guys have to say.
  3. There are a couple places by Houston you can get coal, one in Conroe I know of. Also if you have the space and supportive parents, you can make your own charcoal. I did it in a 55 gal drum with fallen trees from the woods in my neighborhood. In Kennedale (by dallas) I can get coal $12 for 50lbs. Save up a hundred bucks and you can get enough coal to last a couple months of part time forging or more. Also, look and see if there is an ABANA chapter nearby, members might sell you coal. Also, tractor supply sells 40lb bags of coal. Never tried theirs, but my local store doesn't sell it (you'll probably have to order it).
  4. Mr. Powers, you sir, are a revolutionary thinker. I wish you were a politician. The world would be a brighter place.
  5. That is awesome. I still want to cast a 5-10 lbr for giggles one day. I really hope this makes it on YouTube.
  6. It's a jungle in it's own right for sure. Born, raised, and still living in McLennan county.
  7. That's some wicked stuff guys! Get any tools from Santa?
  8. What kind of blacksmithing related gifts did you give or receive this year? Be it tools or products. Also, Merry Christmas!!
  9. Any of y'all ever use these "modernized" muzzle loaders? I feel like it's a game of anticipation, waiting for the smoke to clear to see if you hit anything. I think anything in Texas would go down if hit with a 300+ grain hollow point tho. COM that is.
  10. Sweet, I will probably just get a more affordable H&R in 45-70. I only have one muzzle loader, it's a wolf 50 cal. I may have shamed the traditionalists by putting a scope on it. My main pig gun is my tactical rifle. When I can find a farmer or rancher who wants pigs gone me and a couple friends can normally get 4-7ish hogs in a night if we play our cards right. We've never had a problem making sure the meat didn't go to waste either. I have lots of friends who will take the whole pig minus the innards. My grandfather gave me a repro cap and ball pistol that ive never even shot. I keep meaning to get some old wheel weights to make some balls but just never have.
  11. I use a .270 or a 300 win mag. I'm getting a 45-70 as a pig gun. My uncle has one for pigs and likes it. I asked him when he was going to put a scope on it, he said "when you come up here to sight it in". He tells me it kicks like a mule. He's scared of scope bite from it. I'm around 260lbs, and he said it would throw me around. I'm a little nervous to shoot it haha.
  12. They move a lot of air under decent pressure, which is good. When I was 15 or 16 I tried to make a blower from one and after shocking myself 3 or 4 times I threw it away. I don't know if I was just being an idiot. Even the metal part of the housing would shock me. My uncle and mom saved a vacuum for me, but I'm hesitant to mess with one. Maybe the one I messed with hated me. I have no clue. I just know it was out to get me. If I remember correctly it even shocked me through the mount I made for it.
  13. Yeah, my whole thing on epoxies was only if they are safe. I may try to find a buddy with a lathe and some brass. I did find some culinary equipment grade epoxy for up to 450 degrees tho.
  14. Ok I think you have my mind on the right tracks here. I just need to do some more hunting for an epoxy that won't poison myself or someone else.
  15. I don't smoke, never been drawn to it other than an ocaissional Honduran cigar. It's snuff/dip I can't shake. I'll attach a picture of the coils from my handheld cig. The coils tbemselves can melt if the kanthal and the design of the coils means super low resistance. However, cotton running through the coils is fed by a mixture of vegetable glycerine, flavoring, and nicotine. This makes the vapor. When you change flavors and pull the cotton out, you "cook the coils" for a second to get the old stuff off. The coils reach an orange temp in a couple seconds. The terminals and kanthal I'm not worried about as they are brass or stainless, but my buddy wants a steampunk looking copper outer shell and floor to this thing. I don't if over time the copper oxidizing (assuming that's what the green stuff is) would become toxic. I can get lead free copper sheet, I just want to make sure there isn't anything I'm missing that could be dangerous. It would also be easier to clean if it was coated.