I needed a new anvil stand!

[bigfootnampa]

My old anvil stump rotted away!  I decided to replace it with one made of treated yellow pine.  I hope that this one may last as long as I'll need one!  I built it in two stacked tiers of closely spaced stringers.  The bottom tier has stringers running perpendicular to the long axis of my anvil.  The next tier is built with the stringers running parallel to the long axis of my anvil. I used treated two X eights for the stand and pre drilled for nails.  I used 5" galvanized ring shank spikes to join with.  The finished stand is 14 3/4" tall and 22" X 16" overall.  I bought two 16' lengths but had 11 feet leftover.  The stand is now in use and is much better than the old stump,ever was. 

My safety inspector takes a close look!  He notices that I haven't cleaned up my scraps and sawdust!  Transformed a few railroad spikes into hooks as a test project!  The stand is great!  

[Glenn]

Please add an overall photo so we can see stand and anvil placement.

[bigfootnampa]

Okay.  Here's my cut list; (all 2" X 8" stock)

2@16"

2@24"

6@12"

6@19"

Obviously, this should be adjusted to the size of stand that you require. I'll get a picture later today.  For now my anvil just sits there unfastened... Doesn't seem to move much.  I'll likely staple it down when I get a round tuit!  BTW, I let the end plates overhang the joists by 1" on each end... not necessary but it minimizes chances of splitting the ends!  I rounded the ends a bit with my flap wheel so that I won't catch my pants leg on them. 

[ThomasPowers]

Generally running the pieces all the way from the ground to the anvil will create a stand with less "flex" to it---ie orient them so the grain runs vertically. Takes about the same amount of wood and is more rigid.  I do not advise making stands where there are joins between the anvil and the ground.

I made several stands from the oak floor boards from a scrapped horse trailer (free as the scrapyard doesn't charge for "fluff").  Stood them on the edge of an I beam to get them lined up and then bar clamped them together and then drilled 3 5/8"(?) holes all the way through (used an extension bit used to drill wall studs to run electric)  and used hardware from electric poles and guardrails (scrapyard again...) to go all the way through and snug every thing tight.  Even the one made from the "trashed" boards works great looks *very* rustic though.  I like to make the end boards an inch of two longer so the anvil sits between them. The "good" boards are shelves in my smithy.  I'll see if I can get a picture of a couple of them Saturday when I teach a class.

[smfg_mendo]

Nice job cant wait to see a photo with the anvil placed on top.

[bigfootnampa]

Here's a picture of the anvil on its stand and a shot of the hooks finished and painted!  There may be some flex in my stand... but not enough for me to detect... certainly not a bothersome amount.  It gives more stable support than the old stump ever did!  This is a VERY economical stand!  Yet it works quite well!  I am quite happy with it!

[SReynolds]

I manage a truck/bus repair shop and no wood tools there or at home. I use the saw mill approach.  They CHARGE YOU. The place is a business and you have to be nice and pay them for their time to cut and load it.

They work great. You can shape it a bit with a chainsaw etc.Use a tight grain wood. Oak is fine but you'll need a couple steel bands to keep it together. I like the old school choice;  Elm.

[DSW]

Be advised ACQ treated lumber will eat and corrode standard nail/screws. Even though this stuff has been out for years and has this issue, many are unaware of it. I've been called in to fix a lot of basement walls where they simply nailed the studs to the ACQ treated floor plate with normal framing nails. In some cases the nails rusted out in as little as 6 months.