bigfootnampa

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About bigfootnampa

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Missouri
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, whitesmithing, woodworking, photography, fly fishing, faux painting, fine finishing.

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  • Location
    Saint Louis, MO
  • Interests
    Woodworking, metalsmithing, photography, fly fishing, carving
  1. Questions on making a push-pull hoe

    1080 would be excellent. If you bend it to a sort of flattened U shape... you could just fit the upper legs to the sides of the handle and through rivet them. It will be important to get the angle right for the user! Temper the 1080 to a bit softer than you would for a knife. Many mower and scythe blades are made of 1080 or similar steel.
  2. stone bird

    I had a little skunk sniff my shoelaces in camp one morning! It was predawn and so dark that I couldn’t tell what he was at first! Both of us were a bit startled to discover each other! Usually I can smell a skunk for at least half a mile... so this one had no odor... I’ve wondered whether he might have been one of those that are scentless. He seemed shy. This one was young but not a baby... the babies are as cute as any critter I’ve seen!
  3. Making a saw blade

    I know what you mean. I prefer a longer saw blade for the purpose. I’ve harvested quite a few critters in my day. The process is one at which I am quite experienced.
  4. Brass brushing/coloring

    I have some bronze brushes (copper) and I’ve found that they actually transfer at a lower temp than my brass brushes. Also the bronze has a much narrower temp range that works. Generally it is much more work to get a nice bronze limning than to use brass... I like it well enough to pay the price sometimes though.
  5. Making a saw blade

    The ones that I’ve liked best are Japanese style folding pruning saws. Cutting on the pull stroke with super sharp teeth. An American made version that I used for a few years would cut in both directions. Personally I think a blade of 8” to 10” is about the minimum for reasonable efficiency.
  6. Chefs knife, how big is too big?

    Here’s my view. I use a knife with a 10” blade for slicing up bread, lettuce heads, watermelon, cantaloupe, bacon, etcetera. I use one with a 7 1/2” blade for most everything else. Even though it’s used less often, I have a disproportionate affection for the larger blade! I think your mother will love to have a 9” blade! You might also think about making or buying a good knife roll for her if she often cooks at the church or elsewhere outside her own kitchen.
  7. Neat video....some different techniques

    To me the cold working is a poor idea. Obviously this Smith makes it work with his steel. I would not suggest such techniques. Sorry about the blood groove mention... I had no idea that it was such a sensitive topic! I’ve never made one and never intend to, but I might make a fuller someday. Does that get me off the hook? I suppose that the water dipping was intended to loosen scale... it seems like a very sketchy strategy to me! I’ve seen it in numerous videos but it never looks very effective to me. If you want a sen you’ll probably have to make it. I’ve seen some good tutorials. I think they are not too difficult. I’ve ground one from solid carbide steel. It works okay but I’m not really sold on it. My belt grinder is amazing!
  8. First Attempt at a Feather Pattern

    It is quite beautiful!
  9. Neat video....some different techniques

    The annealing was done in ash, not charcoal. The ash simply insulated the hot steel, allowing it to cool very slowly. The annealing enabled the cold working. Hardened,or even half hard, steel would break or crack when worked cold like that. The video does not show a tempering process... but surely there was one. The "drawknife” is actually a sen... a traditional Japanese bladesmith’s tool. The sen is made of very hard steel and is more commonly used for things like cutting blood grooves and fullers on swords. Personally I would use my belt grinder for creating this sort of bevel... it’s faster. IMO this much cold work is inviting trouble... but this smith obviously knows what he is doing.
  10. Thought you all might appreciate this...

    It’s a cotton bale scale. Kind of a nice one!
  11. You will remain desperate. The colors are delicate oxides and their iridescence is a great feature that makes them so attractive. IME ANY type of finish detracts from the beauty. Some finishes more so than others... but EVERY finish degrades the delicate beauty of the oxides!
  12. Anyang hammer oiler drain

    I’ve never changed mine. I just add more often. I use 30 year round here in Missouri. It warms up and works fine. I can’t see why you’d need lighter weight oil in Florida.
  13. Mending cracks

    They MUST be ground away! Solder is NOT OKAY for this type use! Whatever “various reasons” you have... put them aside and either grind these defects off or start anew! You’ll be glad that you did. I just noticed... you have some serious cracks showing at the spine of the blade as well! They are almost clear through! This is not salvageable unless you can shorten the blade enough to clear away the defects!
  14. Farrier rasp teeth

    I think you’ve got it. The general obsession with stress risers and such is a bit out of proportion IMO. Most knives and such made from these items are significantly overstrength for typical uses. Allowing for quite a bit of artistic leeway in their design and execution.
  15. Just a scrap of 0-1 i had lying around

    Personally I could care less how quality historical work is done! Modern smiths tend much more toward artistry than technical perfection. To my artistic mind that is a very good thing! I have seen some very polished gleaming blades that, to my eyes, lacked beauty and functionality! Really, some nearly perfect looking blades that were duller than my steak knives... yet they glimmered on each mirror polished surface! To me they were repulsive! I will say that I like the more subtle textures achieved by Stormcrow better. This knife is nice though.