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About bigfootnampa

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    Senior Member

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    Blacksmithing, whitesmithing, woodworking, photography, fly fishing, faux painting, fine finishing.

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  • Location
    Saint Louis, MO
  • Interests
    Woodworking, metalsmithing, photography, fly fishing, carving
  1. Neat video....some different techniques

    To me the cold working is a poor idea. Obviously this Smith makes it work with his steel. I would not suggest such techniques. Sorry about the blood groove mention... I had no idea that it was such a sensitive topic! I’ve never made one and never intend to, but I might make a fuller someday. Does that get me off the hook? I suppose that the water dipping was intended to loosen scale... it seems like a very sketchy strategy to me! I’ve seen it in numerous videos but it never looks very effective to me. If you want a sen you’ll probably have to make it. I’ve seen some good tutorials. I think they are not too difficult. I’ve ground one from solid carbide steel. It works okay but I’m not really sold on it. My belt grinder is amazing!
  2. First Attempt at a Feather Pattern

    It is quite beautiful!
  3. Neat video....some different techniques

    The annealing was done in ash, not charcoal. The ash simply insulated the hot steel, allowing it to cool very slowly. The annealing enabled the cold working. Hardened,or even half hard, steel would break or crack when worked cold like that. The video does not show a tempering process... but surely there was one. The "drawknife” is actually a sen... a traditional Japanese bladesmith’s tool. The sen is made of very hard steel and is more commonly used for things like cutting blood grooves and fullers on swords. Personally I would use my belt grinder for creating this sort of bevel... it’s faster. IMO this much cold work is inviting trouble... but this smith obviously knows what he is doing.
  4. Thought you all might appreciate this...

    It’s a cotton bale scale. Kind of a nice one!
  5. You will remain desperate. The colors are delicate oxides and their iridescence is a great feature that makes them so attractive. IME ANY type of finish detracts from the beauty. Some finishes more so than others... but EVERY finish degrades the delicate beauty of the oxides!
  6. Anyang hammer oiler drain

    I’ve never changed mine. I just add more often. I use 30 year round here in Missouri. It warms up and works fine. I can’t see why you’d need lighter weight oil in Florida.
  7. Mending cracks

    They MUST be ground away! Solder is NOT OKAY for this type use! Whatever “various reasons” you have... put them aside and either grind these defects off or start anew! You’ll be glad that you did. I just noticed... you have some serious cracks showing at the spine of the blade as well! They are almost clear through! This is not salvageable unless you can shorten the blade enough to clear away the defects!
  8. Farrier rasp teeth

    I think you’ve got it. The general obsession with stress risers and such is a bit out of proportion IMO. Most knives and such made from these items are significantly overstrength for typical uses. Allowing for quite a bit of artistic leeway in their design and execution.
  9. Just a scrap of 0-1 i had lying around

    Personally I could care less how quality historical work is done! Modern smiths tend much more toward artistry than technical perfection. To my artistic mind that is a very good thing! I have seen some very polished gleaming blades that, to my eyes, lacked beauty and functionality! Really, some nearly perfect looking blades that were duller than my steak knives... yet they glimmered on each mirror polished surface! To me they were repulsive! I will say that I like the more subtle textures achieved by Stormcrow better. This knife is nice though.
  10. Small-ish knives

    I have found that l like the tanto style for general purpose use. The points seem a bit too long on these versions for my preference. I like to use the points as slitters for packages and to do chisel type carving cuts. I often use a wiggle type lever cut. Really cool knives overall though! I like your slightly rustic finishes!
  11. First Things I've Forged

    Your hooks are lovely and reveal artistic talent! As has been noted you do need a countersink and some practice with it. I would suggest that your hall tree hooks be refined in future by working a stronger profile where the hook projects from the post. I would also suggest that you forge the tails of the hall tree hooks into a short hook so that you have a double hook finish. It’s really nice work, but you will get better! Forge ahead!
  12. Magnetic base LEDs

    I have a very small one with a little gooseneck that I use with my belt grinder and my buffer. It “works a treat” as the Brits would say! I also use one with a long gooseneck on my barbecue! I need to get a couple more!
  13. How's Black Walnut For Small Hammer Handles?

    Of course curly maple would be totally unsuitable for a baseball bat! They are making lots of bats out of maple these days... NOT CURLY! This foolish practice has led to a lot of injuries caused by shattered bats! Researchers have recommended that the use of maple be discontinued. Modern players like it because it is pretty hard and has good rebound. Durability is the least of their concerns. Ash bats tend to break into two pieces... when they do break. Maple bats often shatter and create flying shards that are as sharp as spears!
  14. My son works in a shop that does repairs and custom finishes on wheel rims. They have been burning chrome platings off in their ovens! This seems alarmingly hazardous to me! Can anyone suggest a safer method for removing chrome plating? I have been looking around the internet but I’ve yet to find anything that seems definite and authoritative. I’m hoping that some of you skilled smiths can help me.
  15. How's Black Walnut For Small Hammer Handles?

    You could... but it is NOT a good idea. Too soft, too weak, too brittle. Pecan is GREAT! Osage orange, hackberry and other elms!