Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Anvil stand

Recommended Posts

I got the anvil stand done to day. I think it turned out nice. It's 26" tall x 12', and it still has a nice rebound with the sand, ( I was not sure how that would work out ) There is no rocking at all, and I can move it around with the D-rings. The plan is to put it in the shop and leave it there, my forge is on wheels so I can move it as needed. 


new stand 2.JPG

new stand3.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a friend who is a retired ferrier. I was talking to him about mounting anvils and he said always make sure you have your anvil on a stump. He says that doing so will absorb some of the force of your blows better than concrete or other things, and save your joints in the long run. Have any of you guys heard about this? I dont have much experience in smithing, so i was wondering if you guys could confirm that for me. What are some other good ways to mount anvils?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well as many smiths "throw" the hammer at the work and "catch" it on the way back up no joint impact involved when it hits.  Some of this depends on the size of the anvil too.  the larger the anvil the more inertia it has; I could probably use my 515#'r on a water bed---if it would hold it...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stumps work great, are readily available, ... and cheap.

On mine, ( Maple ) using a chainsaw, ... I "relieved" the bottom surface about 1/4" deep, ... leaving 3 "feet" ( about 4" square ) evenly spaced around the circumference.

( Any object with 3 points of contact, will sit firmly on a rough, or smooth, surface, ... without wobbling. )


On the top side, I traced the shape of the bottom of the Anvil, ... and Routed it into that surface, about 1/2" deep.

My #177 pound Peter Wright sits in that Routed pocket without being fastened down, ... and hasn't moved one bit, in the past 15 years.

I can grab the Anvil by the Horn and Tail, and easily "walk" it around on the floor to position it as I see fit, ... or scoot it off to the side, as needed.

In the exposed wood surfaces around the base of the Anvil, are bored roughly 1" diameter holes, about 6" deep, ... to hold Punches and Chisels.


I should put some Hammer Loops around the perimeter too, ... but haven't got around to it yet.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Location location location.  I have several thousand square miles back behind my casita where the largest tree is under 6" in diameter Finding appropriate stumps for anvil is more of a problem... I have used large *old* mine timbers discovered buried in my neighbor's fields and made several built up anvil stands using the oak floorboards of a scrapped horse trailer. (Mounted them vertically. Clamped them with pipe clamps and used the drillbit used to drill between studs to run electrical cable to drill the entire lot a couple of times and then used electrical pole and guardrail fittings to pull them tight.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...