Machinery General Discussions

Are these automated machines exist? (automated for bulging, automated for punching holes and automated for flash removal) Lets say the bars are on the conveyor belt moving and having 3 machines at each side ( total of 6 machines) which the first machine bulge, then punch hole half way and last machine punch hole all way through and trim the flash. No need for the worker to do the job manually transfer from each machine to another. This can be changed from batch production to flow production in my opinion.

Picked these up for a song on Craigslist. I'm acquainted with the Jet brand, but don't know anything about the Harrington. Anyone know which one had better initial quality?

It dawned on me today that the mill drill lathe I inherited with our business may have begun life as a 220. My father in law obviously put the 110 plug on. It is made out of what you wire a house with. There is no spec info on it anywhere that I can find. It was bought from enco quite a while ago. Is there a way to tell?

I have a 25 year old Grizzly lathe that has been worked hard. The motor fried and took some of the control relays with it. DOA... So now I need to wire a replacement motor with the ability to reverse the rotation by means of a transformer/contactor and switch. I've considered using two knife switches for KISS purposes. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thx , Keith

Good Morning folks, I need to make an M6 left hand (reverse) threaded screw that will fit in a drill gearbox in place of the chuck. I have the M6 by 27mm screws that came out of the drills but it would help if I had longer screws. I have looked for the last 45 on the interwebs and other than a 10 pack of 1 meter long rods I have have not found anything that would work. The reason I don't get the rods is due to the cost, over 100.00 Pounds plus VAT plus shipping. I figure I would rather blow $10 bucks on a left hand die and give that a shot first. Question is what size rod stock should I start with to cut a M6 screw? thanks in advance. Ernest

apologize in advance if this is in the wrong section.... I have seen a few similar rolling mills posted here and there,..... while seeking a press I came across this the other day so, wondering from the experts if this would be suitable...... frwd/reverse , approx 1-1/2'' height travel ( may be able to increase) will allow 3-1/2'' wide billet , 110V Baldor power 3/4 HP 1725 rpm I know a very vague question but any idea what the value of this may be ? I have no idea......any info / input appreciated

have a piece of machinery here that has been standing for probably 18 years unused so am going to change all the oils in it but there is one used in the main gearbox and other parts that I cannot find a modern equivalent for. it is in the manual as DIN 51501 N36 LUBRICATING OIL with a viscosity of ca 33c st ca 4,5E 50 degrees C and lists the following ( none of which I can find here ) BP ENERGOL HP20 ARAL CMU OD TU 518 SHELL CARNEA OEL 31 ESSO ESSTIC 50 CASTROL MAGNA HL MOBIL VACTRA OIL HEAVY MEDIUM can anyone suggest a modern equivalent. it is quite an expensive piece of equipment so I dont want to use th…

We have 3 empire sandblast cabinets (direct pressure cabinets). 2 of them have been acting up. the media builds up too much in the bottom of the cabinet and then the hose fills with media and backs the system up. I'm wondering if anyone has replaced the fan motors with higher RPM motors to get a little more suction out of the pickup hose. One cabinet is a 5'x5' empire pressure cabinet using #36 ALOX, the other is a pro former 3x3 using 12/20 Urea plastic. Cartridges have been replaced in the plastic cabinet, and we fabricated a new "funnel" in the bottom of the cyclone separator and welded it in (it was eaten away by the constant media flow.)

Hay Yall, So I am looken into getting a hydraulic Iron worker for my shop I have used a few different ones in my day. My favorite was a 55 lbs Edwards, small foot print but great power. Can anyone out there tell anything different? Is Edwards the way to go? I run a small custom metal shop mostly blacksmithing and medium to light metal fab work. It seem like an iron worker would help me out quite a bit. I have a good sized shop but it gets smaller and smaller every day so I would like to get the smallest machine that I can while getting the biggest bag for the buck. Thanks for any and all feedback.

I was recently able to pick up a vibratory tumber and some media and having never used one I thought I'd ask for some advice. This is a small tub type tumbler with variable speed. The tub is about 23Lx8Wx6D. You can see the media go around in a circle and shake like crazy. It does not use a motor, it uses some electromagnets to vibrate the tub and comes with a 10A fuse so I'm sure there is some real power behind it. It came with a tubfull of ceramic rods that have embedded abrasive flecks in it. The rods are about 3/4" long by 3/16 across and are cut at an angle on the ends. I've seen suggestions to run it was some water with dishwasher detergent or simple …

I saw a small, old, neat looking ball bearing press this weekend. It was in good shape and had a few dies with it. I didn't give it much thought at the time so unfortunately I didn't take pictures. Now I'm just wondering if a small ball bearing press has any use in a blacksmith shop. Does anybody here use one for anything other than pressing bearings?

Hi folks, does anyone have any experience of using a manual forklift a.k.a manual stacker? I'm considering moving into a workshop where there won't be anyone else around to help with lifting heavy work or unloading awkward deliveries like 2m x 1m sheets of thick plate off the delivery lorry so I'm going to need an alternative to a forklift, which I can't afford. Any pros/cons people have experienced would be great as even the cheapest seem to be about £700. They generally seem to be rated to about 1000kg - 1500kg lift capacity. Cheers

Hi, my friends. There is my self made machines for my blacksmith workshop. HOMEMADE COKE,COAL SHREDDER FOR BLACKSMITH Part 1 Part 2

I have been working on converting an old treadmill into a tumbler for a few weeks now. This weekend I finally got it all up and running. Thanksfully my torque and rpm calculations seem to be about spot on and the motor has been powerful enough (so far). Sorry for the messy video. This is my first youtube video and I was trying to get it posted as quicly as possible. If there is interest in the tumbler I can go back and do a better video showing what modifications I did to the treadmill to make this work.

I am interested in how you maintain or even improve your power tools What I already do, in somehow regular intervals, is: General: Dust of motors and fans with pressured air. Check the cables, replace damaged On not hardwired stationary machines I pull the plug and search for corrosion, bad contacts on the plug and the socket If you see large sparks in power drills you might need new carbon brushes Oil and grease, this is obvious, refill if necessary, check for leaks if the consumption rises If a oil release screw has a magnet check for metal shavings. On cold days let hydraulics run for a few minutes before you put load on it Angle grinder: I have seen shat…

Hi, my friends. There is my self made machines for my blacksmith workshop. Motorised Chaff Cutter,Seckaren part 1

I have a 5HP, 220V, 20 amp compressor that gets low to moderate use. Run length to panel box is 10 feet so there isn't any line loss. Problem is that the contacts will fuse together and I have to repair/replace the pressure switch about once a year and of course this "only" happens when I'm in the middle of something. Like this morning,, LOL. I usually buy another switch on ebay or pay double at the local repair shop. So my questions is this, if I spent 3 or 4 times the $ and bought a magnetic starter/pressure switch, would I get better service and eliminate the fused contacts? Thanks for advice---going to pry the contacts apart and file them smooth

This fellow must be part blacksmith (grin)

'> Several machines in the machine shop explained

I need help to provide a service for my customer. He has large water cooled diesel engines with large radiators that have steel top tanks that are rusting on the inside. This occurs because the top tank includes the coolant expansion area and exposed to air on the inside of the tank. These engines provide critical power in the event of power failure, and he wants me to assess the condition of the tanks without disassembly. He suggested a magnetometer to measure tank plate thickness to determing if a tank is nearing a failure point. I am unfamiliar with this area of expertise and wondered if any of you have some ideas? I am all ears!

So I'm restoring this old Victrola record player, it's a VV-IV. I took it all apart and i found out the mainspring is broken. Does anyone know where I can get a new one? or how to repair it? the break is flat and around an inch to an inch and a half from the middle of the spring. Thanks in advance! Ben

Don't know if this is the right place...as good as any. There is a metal worker in the Seattle area. Looks like it's scrap price or so. Maybe that means it needs a lot of work. Don't know any details, but someone here might could use the thing for $1200 XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX There are a few problems with this post: 1) we have a section for machines this is for simple tools. 2)sales should go in tailgating not the general forum, and 3) No off site sales please.

I built this machine entirely from scratch with the exception of SOTS parts such as flange bearings, sprockets and gear reducer. The gear reducer is 60-1, with c face mount 1 hp motor. The top plate is 1/2" thick. The dies are interchangeable for pipe, tube bar angle or channel and were made in a LeblondeToolmaker. The machine has lasted for over 20 years with no repairs. Even the sprockets and chain are original

Hello to all! A CompAir Hydrovane (rotary screw) model 25PURS, With air dryer & tank , used 14,700 hrs is the subject here. I need more shop air -- expanding with more employees -- have plenty of room for it, just don't know if nearly 15k hrs is too much this good maker of rotary screw compressors. It will likely go for ~ $400 to $700. Runs and LOOKS great. I've only got experience with piston compressors, for which 15k hrs would be a lot of use, I think. Any advise would be MOST appreciated. Thanks. All I know is that Alan Evans has a similar Hydrovane, with which he's said he's quite happy.

Me and my dad decided to scrap our old riding mower but ot before taking out the engine and all of the wiring. The engine is 18 hp. My question is is there any way to use the engine in my smithy to aid in blacksmithing. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.