JNewman

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About JNewman

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  • Birthday 02/15/1967

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    http://nfap.ca

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    Male
  • Location
    Hamilton, ON Canada

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  • Location
    Hamilton Ontario Canada
  • Occupation
    Blacksmith, Patternmaker

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  1. I saw someone demo forge welding expanded metal to plate several years ago. I believe he used the results for dragonfly wings in a sculptural piece. I was thinking it was Doug Wilson but may have been Peter Hapney. For similar type things look up the work of James Viste. If you ever go to one of his demos sit in the back row. The molten flux really flies.
  2. I have to say the pair that fits the stock I am using best. While I like v bit bolt tongs and they are a more versatile than other tongs, I do like round tongs for round stock . Round tongs do grip round stock better than v bit tongs and they are much better for flat stock than v bit. I find v bits want to twist the jaws when holding flat stock, round are much nicer holding flat.. Bolt tongs have much more versatility for holding steel that has features on the held end and holds steel well but tongs with shorter bits have more leverage and holding power. I will make or modify dedicated tongs for jobs where I am making a lot of parts the same and it helps hold the stock. Tongs that don't hold the steel well can be dangerous, Very dangerous on power hammers.
  3. One of our OABA members demoed this furnace at a meeting a few years ago. Another member who works as a machinist at a university took a sample of the output to work and did some analysis of it. Mild steel went in the carbon content of what came out was basically mild steel with huge grain structure. I think the carbon content actually went down rather than up.
  4. It would be great to hear from Phil what these balls are for? He must be making a fair number to justify the tooling. I would have thought someone would be mass producing 5" balls fairly cheaply.
  5. Nice videos. For balls were there are high volume it would be hard to compete with these guys. Forged despite part of the title.
  6. They have an annual polo match on the frozen lake at Mont Tremblant in Quebec as well. It was on while I was there last winter.
  7. It definitely smokes and will burn but proper quenching oils do have a higher flash point than regular oil. I am quenching both 4140 and 4340 in it and it works well. There is some smoke but not that much as long as you get the hot part in the oil completely and don't remove it too early. Tempering is when I get the most smoke, If we cleaned the oil off more than just draining before tempering we would get less smoke.
  8. I do. It is not polymer it is quenching oil
  9. I doubt your school has the capacity to pour even a 100lb anvil. I think your instructor is thinking of a MUCH smaller anvil likely in a non ferrous allloy. You will need to pour at least 150lb of steel in one shot to cast a 100lb anvil. Steel needs large risers to allow for shrinkage during solidification, especially for a chunky casting like an anvil, then there is the sprue, runner bar and ingates. This means cranes for the ladle and a fair sized induction furnace. Small by industry standards but very large by school standards. If you really want to make an anvil you can use you should be looking at the suggestions others have made or look at this thread for another option All the pictures are gone from this thread but maybe you can find them on the Wayback machine. Grant made these on a CNC mill but had to have some custom dovetail endmills made. To mill a full sized London pattern anvil you would need some really long endmills. I am not sure if you have priced 6" long solid carbide end mills. You would likely go though $400-500 of end mills at a minimum. Long end mills mean much lighter cuts so you don't break the expensive end mills.
  10. Those bits are extremely heavy and out of proportion to the rest of the tongs on a pair of tongs that look well made. I would suspect they are are for a special use. Maybe as Thomas mentioned brazing or soldering, or perhaps tempering. Another thought would be the bits are forming tools to make something or a pair of somethings. The hot steel would be clamped in the tongs and the steel then hammered around the bits for example you could make collars around the rectangular bit.
  11. On my Massey I have a chunk of steel 2.5" thick x 4" wide by 14" long that I rest my heel on when running the hammer. When I got the hammer set up it just happened to be handy and I planned on using a block of wood but the heavy block of steel is nice in that it does not move easily when putting my foot in place to use the hammer. The guy who works for me who sometimes runs the hammer likes the block much closer to the treadle than I do so it is nice not to have it fixed. It happens to be just the right size that I can kick it under the treadle while changing dies and the treadle can not be depressed. I also have a treadle guard which fits tightly around the anvil and is a handy place to leave tooling. That is if an air hammer was any good to use with tooling Allan what did you do with your Blacker? I have a friend who just put in a Blacker around 6 months ago. He is happy with it but when I tried it out I found the extreme amount of travel on the treadle and the amount of force needed to press the treadle extremely awkward.
  12. Not hypothetical at all. I will be delivering some new tongs to a customer Monday. They have a manufacturing cell that the tongs are for where one one guy loads work into a large rotary furnace then takes 2 hot pieces out of the furnace sets them on a stand. The second guy takes a part from the stand puts it in a large punch press which he then cycles. The part then ejects from the press goes down a vibrating chute to a third guy who fits the part into another press which he then cycles. The third guy then drops the part into a quench tank. The part which is only 1/4" thick is still hot enough to be hardened in the quench tank. A fourth guy then empties the conveyor coming out of the quench tank. This is not the type of work most of us do here and I have no desire to set up to do the volume they do in a day but they are set up to make efficient use of the heat. Ironically I think this is the sort of work where I think a mechanical hammer is just as good and I have heard that Bradleys can outlast an air hammer in. Hammering one stage in a part then passing it on to another smith using a hammer set up for a different operation. Or a hammer set up with dedicated dies to do all the operations. As far as the single blow goes. What I do when I need a single blow is to slowly bring the treadle down so the hammer is cycling just above the work then bring it down sharply and then let it off. Doing this you can get a single blow. I don't see how this is any worse than the squealing clutch and brake method used with your mechanical hammer. I am sure your hammer works effectively and maybe is better for you due to your prejudices against air hammers. But I think your initial statements about them being no good and no terrible for use with top tools is just wrong. I would have been happy to have a well tuned mechanical hammer if the opportunity to purchase my Massey hammer had not come up. But having it allows me to do a lot of the work I do much more efficiently.
  13. It is possible to use the foot pedal to operate the hammer as John shows using the hand control. It does require either having a bigger heel block or balancing on one foot but it can be run in "single blow mode" by foot as well. That being said I very rarely use the single blow mode as I rarely find it necessary I can usually hit just one blow if needed. Being able to do four or five operations in one heat is far more efficient than doing one then letting the work cool. Yes sometimes doing one step then another then another is the most efficient. But in forging work it is often not the most efficient because you are losing the heat in the job between steps. In 1/2" stock that is less of an issue but in larger stock letting the material cool between each step means you are heating the material from cold multiple times. This means lost time and energy between steps. As well you are scaling the work up much more as you need more pieces in the forge at a time to heat them from cold as well as needing a bigger forge. The Henry Ford approach would be to do one operation then pass it off while still hot to another employee who does the next operation with another machine either on the same heat or while maintaining residual heat. I often do an operation or more then do another on the same heat on my press
  14. Those dies are likely for making a specific job. I have a number of dies that came with my hammer and some that I have made that are similar. Some are dovetail dies some are just drop on dies. The center section on that die may or may not be used for forging but it definitely acts as a stopper or kiss block when using the outer areas. The one I used yesterday has a tapered section and a cutout that is 1 3/8" lower than the stopper area. I use it for forging chisel bars and pry bars which I make quite a few of. I use the tapered section to make the taper on the end of the bar and then the lower section to make the chisel end 1 3/8" wide. Or did you make them for working different thickness bars?
  15. I have had really good luck with "Big Jake" gloves. Not cheap but not that expensive. The backs are fairly heavy cotton the stitching is kevlar and they "fling off" pretty well. They are thin enough not to affect dexterity but thick enough that they last and give a little cushion to your hand. I find I can get a couple of weeks out of them. Typical safety supply work gloves I get a couple of days out of, Harbour Freight type gloves I might get a day. Most of my forging is done on the power hammer or press so I typically wear gloves on both hands but I usually fling off the right one when I pick up a hand hammer.