George Geist

Great idea. Power hammer dies probably best way to do it. I was also thinking a McDonald roller might work too.

The ABANA offices from what I understand are now moved to Johnstown PA.. That is where the conference is going to happen in 2021 and if you do get the anvils ring there was a flyer in there for the event. Just saw the nice write up you got in the latest issue of Anvils Ring. Congrats George

If you want brand new American made I'd say Emerson is probably one of the best contemporary anvils out there. They can be gotten through Emerson Horseshoe Supply of Bossier City LA. Not taking anything away from Swedish or any of the classic anvil makers but I'd say Emerson is probably best choice for new made high quality and closest to your price range. George

Best wishes to JM Shrader on the birth of his new daughter today. I'm sure he'll have a cigar for everybody. George

Before Mr Powers gets here with all the answers I'm not sure if I'm understanding the question. Normally those type of machines whether they be steam, air or mechanical are variable speed and hitting force depending on how much pressure you apply to the foot pedal or other operating device. Are you wanting to know how much force it's capable of at full force? If so I'd guess it just depends. In addition to ram weight the steam or air pressure would need to be known as well. George

On a list of needs a clip horn isn't a must have but it is a nice to have. There are about as many ways to pull clips as there are ways to skin a cat. As long as they get the same end result there is no wrong way to do it. A clip horn just gives one more option. I posted a vid on this site some time ago of one in use but I'll be doggone if I remember where. Let me look around and I'll see what I can find. George

No, never had the pleasure of making the gentleman's acquaintance.

Cool, I'd be interested. You still have fire pots for sale?

Thanks for PM. JM, The thing you're talking about did get fixed in PA for a few years but this year they changed the law which enables them do legally do what they were previously doing illegally. As long as there is no national governing body, and it continues to be overseen by state commissions it will continue to have frequently changing rules in every jurisdiction impossible to keep up with by anybody. All I can tell you is to best of my knowledge the only place in this country that everybody definitely gets tested is California. Aside of that its easier than ever to get on a racetrack right now and when someone is licensed and in there is no getting rid of them. George

The Thoro'bred ones I'm posting pictures of, are those the ones you saw in that store Charles? George

I'd say if I was looking to forge them I'd be inclined to finish the beveled edges last. Beating something down into it while it's hot to form the mold will undoubtedly booger up the edges a little bit so if you finish them last you'll clean it up real nice. Also being as they're H13 they'll air harden nice for you too. George

Frosty, It starts out as inch and a half square. Length of base looks like 3.5" top is 2". I cant find my protractor right now but angle can be easily figured out by drawing it on paper using those measurements. Hole in hold down is 1 and 5/8x2.

If you're looking to make some like those I'll dig them back out and measure dimensions, angles etc for you. Although mine were machined, they can be easily enough forged as the nice examples jlp posted. As for ones with a hardy shank, I never ever turn a hardy tool away. Although not everything will fit your hardy hole, everything will definitely fit in your vise. George

Hold down with hardy shank is a store bought one from Thoro'bred. You're right. It is somewhat overkill. A lot of guys cut that part off as it's not really necessary. Some guys also like a real heavy hammer for swaging. In my experience 3 or 3.5 # will suffice. Just be sure it's annealed. George

It helps a little to set your anvil just a little lower than you normally would because they add a little height. Hold downs let you set them over the center of the anvil. As you guys know horseshoers anvils aren't normally anymore than 125# max with most contemporary ones much lighter. Thus, if they were in a hardy hole the anvil wouldn't have enough stability. Over the meaty part of the anvil you can still whack it pretty hard without it moving as much. Section most often used in them is 1/4x1/2. 9/16 is better for some things but is entirely too hard to find around these parts. George