the iron dwarf

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About the iron dwarf

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  • Location
    England, east midlands
  • Interests
    making forges and tools

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  1. Help to ID this anvil

    is that the only marking on it? no handling holes? numbers what does it look like underneath? if you had read the post you just quoted in full you would know a lot more looks to be forged not cast value will depend on maker, size, condition, and where in the world it is is it london pattern, soho, or anyone of a hundred more types what condition is the face in?? what was the result of the rebound test?
  2. Forging Press Design

    they are generally for low pressure as are ones from fork lifts, a lot I have seen operate at 100 to 120 bar, personally I would buy a new cylinder so you know the specs and these days they are quite cheap. the ones I get are 200 to 250 bar and I can get the bore, stroke, end fittings I want
  3. Forging Press Design

    problem with C frame is the tend to spit out tooling and need a lot more metal to make them strong. large DC stick welder, the ESAB one I have is well over a third of a ton brass would be good for the slides but mine are steel on steel control gear is important to reduce wasted travel time and get consistent results, I can set top and bottom travel to 0.25mm as well as controlling it by the footswitch top tool holder needs to be small outside or when you need to do a tight bend it will be in the way you never need your top tool holder to touch the table and make tooling to suit, 6" 150mm is close enough bottom tooling may need a stripper plate for drifting and punching so make sure it can be fixed down well and tooling should be quick and easy to change so you can swap out hot tools and replace with cool ones my table has a hole in the middle, and sliding out the tool pallet then releasing the bolt holding the top tool means it can drop though and into a bucket of water, replace with another top tool and slide back in pallet in about 30 seconds press frame: imagine it made of rubber and how it will flex, make sure the flex cannot break welds,lots of webs on corners, frame will flex, measure it with a dial gauge and make sure it is designed so nothing goes towards you if it fails.
  4. Dwarven hunting knife

    nice work, I approve of it even if some here dont
  5. it can be made out of wrought iron or cast iron but steel would be far easier and cheaper, rivets can be bought or made
  6. Hello from UK

    Hi rocketman nice bullrushes and pokers anythin you need just ask
  7. Striving Seattle Smith

    but then who do google ask?
  8. Striving Seattle Smith

    Charles, rabid squirrels are not known for spelling but yours is always 'interesting' and even google translate would have difficulty with it but it is fun trying to work out what you mean
  9. Forges 101

    any 'king of ran dumb' vids should be treated as a way of getting a darwin
  10. just use it for 100 years and it will get that nice patina back
  11. DIY 2x72 motor question

    that motor looks rather open, you need a TEFC motor really as grinding dust will get inside and will damage the windings. totally enclosed fan cooled
  12. My first anvil

    heat from the weld may have affected the area it is on, just work around it
  13. My first anvil

    those marks will smooth out a bit with work it was made by Isaac Hill, a friend of mine could give you a bit more of the history of it
  14. My first anvil

    the slight surface rust will make the rebound low, with use it will get better
  15. My first anvil

    dont do any machining on it, the b est way to clean it is to use it it is in great shape we have 2 D HILL 5th foot anvils at my place, one of them is a sawmakers which I believe is rare as a 5th foot