I finally started my new Anvil Stand, my existing one is about six inches too low and i wanted to upgrade.
I read about Anvil Stand, wood vs metal, and decided it was my way to work with wood because there was a lot of it just laying around Building Sites, so wood won out.
I may after using this one for a while decide it is time for a Steel Stand but for now wood it is !
This is a run down on how i did it based on a Thread by Stash/Steve.
Cost, not sure: Wood was free, all the screws I used were left overs from the house remodel, I purchased is the Adhesive, the Threaded Rod w/Nuts, Flats and Locks and the Angle Iron for the Router Table. So this is my kind of project… Free or Almost Free Is For Me !
Leveling My Wooden Anvil Stand
New picture finished block here (Not available at posting time) !
My thanks to Steve, aka Stash, for posting the method he used, it got me going; the Thread Name, “Leveling an Anvil Stand My Way”, located at:
I have been working on a new stand for my PW Anvil that I purchased two years ago and gathering dimensional lumber, from different Building Site including my own remodeling for awhile, and started thinking about how I was going to start the project. One thing, "I over-think everything", ok two things... "Everything takes me far longer to do than it should and I usually need most everything in place before I can even start a project" !
I picked up enough Dimensional Lumber to start my project, “My Wooden Anvil Stand”, I needed to keep Peter Wright happy and I needed to add six inches to my existing stand !
Tools Used to Mill the Bottom and Top of “My Wooden Anvil Stand”:
1) Saw Horse – qty. 2, I used the HD plastic units, I thought these might be a little shaky but once I added the wooden shelf they stood tall and firm. Wooden or Metal Units will work too !
2) Router – I used a one-horse power unit I had in the cabinet, it worked well, (left over from my fathers tools, so he sort of helped out).
3) Router Table – Home Made from two pieces of angle iron sized for the spacing between the SH and 3/8” Plywood for a platform to mount the Router to the angle iron. The 3/8” Plywood Table, I made it just wide enough for the width of the Router’s bottom plate and long enough to allow for bolting it to the angle iron !
4) The Lower Shelf – I used two pieces of ¾” Plywood cut to length that fit my table and used 2x4s to secure the shelf in place and in-between the SH to make the shelf more secure, see Figure 1.
5) Levels, qty. 2, a four foot and a two foot, the four foot was used to get a plumb on the sides in reference to the shelf and to find the highs and lows of the work surface; the two foot was a checking device for plumb and the checking of level of the milled surface after milling.
6) A dead blow Hammer – used to align the block.
7) Basic Tools for assembly, i.e. Hammer, Screw Gun and Hand Screw Driver, Drill, Drill Bits, Wrenches sized for your work.
How I started out:
I needed a level spot to build from and was thinking my garage floor should be level enough, I took a four foot level and a known six foot straight bar to check, seemed level, should be able to get the wood glued together and flat or at least close enough; that's a big step for me people... "Close enough" !
Cut the wood to length and marked the hole locations using the bottom of the boards and the center of the boards as a datum, (At this point I marker the boards for bottom). Made sense so all of the holes would be close to a good position for alignment. What’s that called in industry today… “Geometric Dimensioning and Tolerancing”.
The next step was to drill the marked holes for the 1/2" Threaded Rod through bolts, a 5/8” hole would allow for adjustments of the pieces when aligning and making sure the boards are square to each other. Since the threaded rods are only being used to hold the boards together and would have large flat washers, lock washers, and nuts on each rod, using oversized holes to aligning the board seemed Iike a good idea.
Got the threaded Rods, nuts, flats and locks, from Lowes, they even have a Hardware Package with nuts, flats and locks, needed for a two rod setup, x3 for me, let's get started.
Laid out the boards, spread the construction adhesive, I chose a slower setting adhesive made by Loctite, to give me time to spread the adhesive, align the wood and tighten things up.
At this time the nuts were just snugged up, not too tight yet, banged the boards with the dead blow hammer to make sure they were all sitting flat on the floor. Aligned the pieced on the sides, tightened the nuts and added clamps, all done right... WRONG !
After drying, the stand wobbled worse than if I didn't even try to square it up during the gluing and clamping process, what to do next !
Wait for it… Drum Roll Please !
In the Thread by Stash, "https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/51404-flattening-a-stump-sinatra-style/", “Leveling an Anvil Stand My Way”... Stash, the OP, posted a method he used with a Home Made Stand and Router to level his Anvil Stand, a Tree Stump ! Thanks to Steve and his write up with pictures I attempted his posted method and it turned out very well, a level stand, so I would say that it worked and it is where we were headed, so that is good !
I thought Stash's method was as good as any, if my base was solid, it should work but the results I got… a level block, was far easier than I ever expected !
The Router/Miller Method:
Home Made Miller - (HMM), Figure 1
This is what I did, similar to Steve’s method but with the tools and hardware I had available to work with !
Took two Saw Horses (SH) placed side by side with the tops parallel to each other.
Made a reinforced lower shelf with two pieces of 3/4" plywood and some 2x4s to hold the shelf together and in place. See Figure 1
Figure 1 Home Made Milling Machine, crude but it worked out ok !
The HMM wasn’t going to have the height needed between the top of the work piece and the top of the SH, ¾” strips of wood were added to the tops of the SH to add the height needed, see Figure 1. Simple, straight forward, and gained extra height for Router adjustments and movement of the Slide Table.
Figure 2 - Router Table with angle iron and plywood.
Place the block of wood, The Anvil Stand, on the lower reinforced shelf, plumb the sides straight up, shimmed as needed. There was only one shim needed, it might move around and change the height pattern setup so it was secured using Builder’s Tape. I felt the block was heavy enough to stay put but I was worried the shims might vibrate loose and move.
NOTE: If your stand/block is a lite-weight… secure it to something, if mine moved I would drive some screws up through the wooded shelf but the block held fast.
Figure 3 shows the block in the HMM
Next the part of the block being milled needed to be checked for high and low points and the surface marked. The low spot will be the starting and ending point; the high spot is to determining the amount you need to cut the block to make it close to level.
To do this a known straight solid edge was used, a four foot level across the SH Top Edge. Measurements were made from the bottom of the straight edge to the block and by marking it down you can determine where it needs milling first.
Once the low and the high spots are found, the difference between the lowest low and the highest high points was determined, the first cut was approximately one-third of the difference, it could be less, this is your call.
The Rrouter was set for the first cut and started the process of moving the router back and forth on the block of wood, proceeding slowly, 3/8” cut widths across the block (half of my bit) and cutting from the same side each time, in the same direction.
Figure 4 - The starting of the milling process.
You can see the center screw on the router is where the cutting is taking place, almost half done.
Luckily I only had to take a small amount off each side so you can see the cuts are small in depth and width.
After the first three complete cuts to the whole surface, the bottom of the stand, which is facing up, had a reasonably flat surface.
NOTE: The amount I cut was the difference between the low spot and the high spot plus a little more just to make sure the surface was level !
Figure 5 showing completed first surface
The Block was flipped 180 degrees or putting the other side that needs cutting up ! In my case it was the top of the stand that was going to be milled next.
Getting started on the new end of the block by checking the plumb of the block, shimming if needed, the block should be close to plumb without shims.
I found the level bubble was within the level lines, and as it turned out it was off the same amount the SH were off, so I'm good to go !
NOTE: Make sure the Base that the piece sits on, and the Table Sliding Surface, is level/parallel to each other, or close to it !
The next step was repeating Steps 5 and 6, ref: low and high spot, locations and differences in height and then Steps 7 and 8, ref: Routing and Checking.
Figure 6, Anvil Stand finished end.
As it turns out it was a time consuming process, setting up the Milling Stand but ended up being easier than I thought to get it done, and I am a very happy metal bender with the results.
In case the question is asked… “Using the belt sander method didn't work for me, sand here… better, sand there... uneven again”. I used a straight edge to find the lows and highs but once I started sanding I lost the points that needed sanding.
The Router / SH / Milling Table, worked and worked well.
Figure 7 Completed Center Core of “My New Wooden Anvil Stand”.
I hope anyone reading this Thread can understand the process. Steve’s Posted Method worked and worked well enough to get me an Anvil Stand Core that is as close to level as I will ever get.
I suggest anyone wanting a wooden, level stand and with the correct tooling and level of expertise, to give it a try !
Thanks for reading my write up, it is a long one !
Any comments are appreciated and expected !
Scrambler82 / GrevB