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Found 3 results

  1. Hey guys! Thought I may post this here, this is an informational video about how to forge punches efficiently! :) Hope you all enjoy! Any suggestions for future videos? Many thanks!!!
  2. Hey Fellows! I just recently got my own touchmark and now I forged a pair of tongs specially to hold it. I forged it out by hand from 5/8" coil spring. It can hold 1/2" to 5/8" steel in a 90% angle. It has a built in tong clip and the reins are 1 foot and 1 3/4" inches long. Yours - Daniel
  3. Here is the stump build for the anvil I made in another thread: http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/31084-my-first-anvil-build-looking-for-advice/ It's not quite done, but I was able to get most of it done in a couple weeknights with the help of some awesome, old chainsaws i inherited from my Grandfather. Here is approximately what it will look like. On the near side I carved a foot hole so I can stand really close and try to save my already bad back. And the far side was left uncut so I can drill some holes for tool holders. These are the two saws I used and the only two power tools used to make the stump. The big boy is a late 1950s McCulloch 35A, which needed a minor rebuild and was used to chop the three sides. The smaller one is a McCulloch Mini Mac and I used that for all the detail work. Here is a closeup of my foot hole design, it also shows how I carved three "legs" into the base. With those legs, the stump sits perfectly flat on the ground, no rocking whatsoever. Its pretty stout. Sweet litterbox in the background, huh? I have seen a few posts of people using routers mounted on sleighs to flatten their anvil stumps, I went with the less sophisticated route, it also only took about 30 minutes start to finish and it is almost perfectly flat. Here is basically how I did it: First cut the base to a tripod so it sits flat on the ground, make sure it is where you want it because after you level the face, any adjustments to the feet will throw off the level. Next get a straight edge or level and lay it across the face at various places/angles. In each placement mark the pivot point of the straight edge. That is the high spot. I just put a squiggle with a sharpie to mark all the high spots. Knock down all the high spots until the face is flat. Then proceed to leveling (you can do this the same time as the flattening step). I lay the chainsaw down as flat as I can and slide it across the face as depicted below, using very quick passes, maybe 2-3 seconds to skim across the whole thing. This brings down one side or the other, but keeps the whole thing flat. It takes a lot of passes, but at 3 seconds a piece you can do 20 passes in a minute (which is enough to take off probably 1/4-1/2 inch across the whole face). Repeat the whole process until you get it as flat and as level as you want. No building frames, sleds, etc. Just start up the chainsaw and have a straight edge and sharpie on hand. I'll post some more pictures as I finish the last details. The key to working with a chainsaw for shaping, which I'm sure everyone would learn very quickly is never to stop moving the chainsaw, if you do it bites in and cuts a deep slot. Don't even use the weight of the chainsaw, maybe only 1/4-1/2 the weight, it is amazing how quickly it will skim the surface down if you aren't careful. One question, anyone have recommendations for preserving the wood? It is still pretty wet and I don't want to let it crack too badly. I was thinking about just coating the whole thing with boiled linseed oil or a nice wood stain.
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