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I Forge Iron

stromam

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About stromam

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    Indiana

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  1. I originally just had it in there because I was using that bar to check the hardy hole fit. After pounding on the anvil a few times with it/without it I noticed that the bar helps deaden the ring. It wedges itself against the tapered base of the anvil and apparently changes the resonant frequency. I did recently grind the edge of the bar down so the bar slides further down the taper of the base and the top of the bar lies below the face of the anvil (so it doesn't get in the way). If I want to use the hardy hole, just a quick tap from the bottom and the bar flies out. You can kind of see i
  2. And I finally got to use it! Here is what I made. I wasn't setting out to make that, I just started by drawing out some stock, tapering, rounding, upsetting, bending, cutting, etc. Eventually I had a piece that looked perfect for a hold down tool so I just made an extra bend, drawed/drew (past tense of draw?) the 5/8" round stock to fit loose in my 5/8" pritchel and flared the end. I've also made a round punch and started on a pair of tongs. I hosed the tongs up pretty bad, so no pictures yet. Right now I've got to make some modifications to my forge before I try to do anythin
  3. Made a stump which can be seen here if you haven't already found it: http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/31887-my-first-anvils-stump-build/ Haven't mounted it yet because I'm going to make another stump that's a bit taller. Right now I'm playing with the height by screwing pieces of 2x4 under the feed to raise it up. Once I figure out how tall I want it I'll make another one and mount it firmly.
  4. stromam

    First tool

    A couple bends and a flare, doesn't get much more simple than that. And with just a couple taps, it holds tight enough to lift my 205 lb anvil! How cool is that?

    © Adam Strom

  5. I am wondering what other people have to say about the undersize/ridiculously oversize anvil stand? I've heard some people say they like to work VERY close to their anvils (maybe it depends on if you are doing heavy striking or delicate work). What do you mean by "the used of iron is a must". Do you mean in mounting the anvil to the stand or in keeping the stand from splitting. How would you tighten straps further after bolting them down the first time?
  6. My anvil ended up about 1-1/2 inch short of reaching my knuckles. I tried it out a bit last night and had a hard time holding my stock level with the face without bending over. I have basically 4 options at this point. 1. I can leave it and learn to use it. 2. I can try to find another stump (maybe bigger diameter too) which would also give me the opportunity to correct some of the mistakes I made on this one. 3. I can make a spacer between the anvil and the stump either out of another stump or 2x4s or a piece of steel or something, then silicone it in place. 4. I can make a platf
  7. Finally got around to the rebound test now that it is somewhat firmly seated on the stump. Something very strange happened. The rebound of the hardened face was about the same as the rebound of the unhardened step/upsetting area. I thought for a while that something was very wrong with the manganese steel until i realized there is a coating of shellac on the entire hammer head. I sanded that coating off and WOW what a difference. The unhardened areas give a light thud and two or three minor bounces. The hardened face gives a high pitch "TING" with a VERY good rebound (as best as I can
  8. Here is the stump build for the anvil I made in another thread: http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/31084-my-first-anvil-build-looking-for-advice/ It's not quite done, but I was able to get most of it done in a couple weeknights with the help of some awesome, old chainsaws i inherited from my Grandfather. Here is approximately what it will look like. On the near side I carved a foot hole so I can stand really close and try to save my already bad back. And the far side was left uncut so I can drill some holes for tool holders. These are the two saws I used and the only two p
  9. stromam

    Closeup of tripod/foot hole

    © Adam Strom

  10. stromam

    Only tools used

    © Adam Strom

  11. stromam

    Tool flat

    © Adam Strom

  12. stromam

    Foot hole

    © Adam Strom

  13. stromam

    Ready to mount

    © Adam Strom

  14. So I just found out when trying to level my stump last night that the face of my anvil as well as the base are slightly convex. I don't care about the base because I'm going to silicone it to the stump, so it doesn't have to be perfectly flat, what I'm worried about is the curvature of the face. It is flat from one side to the other, but from heel to horn there is about a 3/16" difference from one end to the other. Should I go through all the trouble of taking it back to the shop, re-welding/re-grinding the face to bring it closer to flat? Is it really that big of a deal? I do have
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