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About stromam

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  1. I originally just had it in there because I was using that bar to check the hardy hole fit. After pounding on the anvil a few times with it/without it I noticed that the bar helps deaden the ring. It wedges itself against the tapered base of the anvil and apparently changes the resonant frequency. I did recently grind the edge of the bar down so the bar slides further down the taper of the base and the top of the bar lies below the face of the anvil (so it doesn't get in the way). If I want to use the hardy hole, just a quick tap from the bottom and the bar flies out. You can kind of see it better in this picture: I have also installed a couple eye-bolts into the stump with springs and turnbuckles. One has a hook that will act as a hardy hold down, one has another eye-bolt that holds onto the end of the horn and further deadens the ring. Even with it not yet fully mounted there is almost no ring. I'll post more pictures in either this or the stump build forum once I finish mounting it.
  2. And I finally got to use it! Here is what I made. I wasn't setting out to make that, I just started by drawing out some stock, tapering, rounding, upsetting, bending, cutting, etc. Eventually I had a piece that looked perfect for a hold down tool so I just made an extra bend, drawed/drew (past tense of draw?) the 5/8" round stock to fit loose in my 5/8" pritchel and flared the end. I've also made a round punch and started on a pair of tongs. I hosed the tongs up pretty bad, so no pictures yet. Right now I've got to make some modifications to my forge before I try to do anything else. I made somewhat of a 55 forge, but made the mistake of having the air pipe come up through the middle of the drum lid protruding about 3" into the coal bed with the end capped and holes drilled around the circumference of the 3" protrusion. I thought that may do a better job of diffusing the air... which it does... too good. It burns up TONS of charcoal and has about 4 or 5 hot spots around the perimeter of the pipe. I went through about 10 gallons of pine charcoal in less than 3 hours and I had a tough time getting the metal heated quickly. I'm gonna try a side blast bucket design to give me a nice deep 8" fire pit. On a side note, anyone interested in a 1988 Mazda RX7 convertible? The engine/transmission are in decent shape, just needs interior/exterior work and could use some new shocks (they still work, just a bit rusted). On a second side note, anyone want to come help me organize my horribly messy work bench? I'm kind of embarrassed by this photo, but the work bench is really cool. It was my grandfather's and he was a craftsman (wood, metal, engines, boats, you name it!). There are a bunch of cool old tools in it and the bench itself is made out of solid oak, it weighs a TON!
  3. Made a stump which can be seen here if you haven't already found it: Haven't mounted it yet because I'm going to make another stump that's a bit taller. Right now I'm playing with the height by screwing pieces of 2x4 under the feed to raise it up. Once I figure out how tall I want it I'll make another one and mount it firmly.
  4. stromam

    First tool

    A couple bends and a flare, doesn't get much more simple than that. And with just a couple taps, it holds tight enough to lift my 205 lb anvil! How cool is that?

    © Adam Strom

  5. I am wondering what other people have to say about the undersize/ridiculously oversize anvil stand? I've heard some people say they like to work VERY close to their anvils (maybe it depends on if you are doing heavy striking or delicate work). What do you mean by "the used of iron is a must". Do you mean in mounting the anvil to the stand or in keeping the stand from splitting. How would you tighten straps further after bolting them down the first time?
  6. My anvil ended up about 1-1/2 inch short of reaching my knuckles. I tried it out a bit last night and had a hard time holding my stock level with the face without bending over. I have basically 4 options at this point. 1. I can leave it and learn to use it. 2. I can try to find another stump (maybe bigger diameter too) which would also give me the opportunity to correct some of the mistakes I made on this one. 3. I can make a spacer between the anvil and the stump either out of another stump or 2x4s or a piece of steel or something, then silicone it in place. 4. I can make a platform out of 2x4s to set the anvil/stump on top of. That would allow me to either use it at knuckle height, a couple inches lower for heavy hitting, or I could raise the platform and use it a couple inches higher for more detailed work. Thoughts/recommendations?
  7. Finally got around to the rebound test now that it is somewhat firmly seated on the stump. Something very strange happened. The rebound of the hardened face was about the same as the rebound of the unhardened step/upsetting area. I thought for a while that something was very wrong with the manganese steel until i realized there is a coating of shellac on the entire hammer head. I sanded that coating off and WOW what a difference. The unhardened areas give a light thud and two or three minor bounces. The hardened face gives a high pitch "TING" with a VERY good rebound (as best as I can tell from my zero years of experience). The hammer bounces across the anvil face so many times, if I'm not careful it bounces itself right off the edge. It still has a ways to go on work hardening, because if I don't hit it square with the hammer, it leaves a dent from the corner of the hammer. I also made the mistake of striking a cold bar of square stock laid flat on the face and it left a nice little bar shaped impression, granted probably not more than 0.002" deep, it still showed up on the polished face. It weighed out at 205 lbs. Just light enough to pick up by myself (although I probably shouldn't) and when mounted to the stump I can still slide it across the floor. Its heavy enough that a medium swing of a 2-1/2 lb hammer yields ZERO movement of the anvil.
  8. Here is the stump build for the anvil I made in another thread: It's not quite done, but I was able to get most of it done in a couple weeknights with the help of some awesome, old chainsaws i inherited from my Grandfather. Here is approximately what it will look like. On the near side I carved a foot hole so I can stand really close and try to save my already bad back. And the far side was left uncut so I can drill some holes for tool holders. These are the two saws I used and the only two power tools used to make the stump. The big boy is a late 1950s McCulloch 35A, which needed a minor rebuild and was used to chop the three sides. The smaller one is a McCulloch Mini Mac and I used that for all the detail work. Here is a closeup of my foot hole design, it also shows how I carved three "legs" into the base. With those legs, the stump sits perfectly flat on the ground, no rocking whatsoever. Its pretty stout. Sweet litterbox in the background, huh? I have seen a few posts of people using routers mounted on sleighs to flatten their anvil stumps, I went with the less sophisticated route, it also only took about 30 minutes start to finish and it is almost perfectly flat. Here is basically how I did it: First cut the base to a tripod so it sits flat on the ground, make sure it is where you want it because after you level the face, any adjustments to the feet will throw off the level. Next get a straight edge or level and lay it across the face at various places/angles. In each placement mark the pivot point of the straight edge. That is the high spot. I just put a squiggle with a sharpie to mark all the high spots. Knock down all the high spots until the face is flat. Then proceed to leveling (you can do this the same time as the flattening step). I lay the chainsaw down as flat as I can and slide it across the face as depicted below, using very quick passes, maybe 2-3 seconds to skim across the whole thing. This brings down one side or the other, but keeps the whole thing flat. It takes a lot of passes, but at 3 seconds a piece you can do 20 passes in a minute (which is enough to take off probably 1/4-1/2 inch across the whole face). Repeat the whole process until you get it as flat and as level as you want. No building frames, sleds, etc. Just start up the chainsaw and have a straight edge and sharpie on hand. I'll post some more pictures as I finish the last details. The key to working with a chainsaw for shaping, which I'm sure everyone would learn very quickly is never to stop moving the chainsaw, if you do it bites in and cuts a deep slot. Don't even use the weight of the chainsaw, maybe only 1/4-1/2 the weight, it is amazing how quickly it will skim the surface down if you aren't careful. One question, anyone have recommendations for preserving the wood? It is still pretty wet and I don't want to let it crack too badly. I was thinking about just coating the whole thing with boiled linseed oil or a nice wood stain.
  9. stromam

    Closeup of tripod/foot hole

    © Adam Strom

  10. stromam

    Only tools used

    © Adam Strom

  11. stromam

    Tool flat

    © Adam Strom

  12. stromam

    Foot hole

    © Adam Strom

  13. stromam

    Ready to mount

    © Adam Strom

  14. So I just found out when trying to level my stump last night that the face of my anvil as well as the base are slightly convex. I don't care about the base because I'm going to silicone it to the stump, so it doesn't have to be perfectly flat, what I'm worried about is the curvature of the face. It is flat from one side to the other, but from heel to horn there is about a 3/16" difference from one end to the other. Should I go through all the trouble of taking it back to the shop, re-welding/re-grinding the face to bring it closer to flat? Is it really that big of a deal? I do have a couple relatively flat areas to work on, it is mostly a slight curve about 3" in from the step and at the point the heel meets the body.