Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'wood'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • I Forge Iron Forum
    • Keeping You Informed
    • Feedback and Support
  • Blacksmithing
    • Blacksmithing, General Discussion
    • Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
    • Stands for Anvils, Swage Blocks, etc
    • Forges
    • Blacksmith Tooling
    • Vises
    • Heat Treating, general discussion
    • Building, Designing a Shop
    • Problem Solving
    • Alchemy and Formulas
    • Fluxes used in blacksmithing
    • Finishes for Metal
    • Metallurgy
    • Metal Sculpture & Carvings
    • Cold Worked Iron and Steel
    • The Business Side of Blacksmithing
    • Smelting, Melting, Foundry, and Casting
    • Member Projects
  • Machinery and power tools
    • Machinery General Discussions
    • Power Hammers, Treadle Hammers, Olivers
    • Presses
    • Grinders, Sanders, etc
    • Drills, Post drills, Mag drills, etc
    • Lathes
    • MIlls, Milling machines, etc
    • Saws, bandsaws, hack saws, etc
    • Shears
  • Bladesmithing
    • Knife Making
    • Knife making Class General Class Discussion
    • Knife Making Classes
    • Axes, Hatchets, Hawks, Choppers, etc
    • Chisels, Gouges, Scissors, etc
    • Finish and Polish for Knives
    • Folding Knives
    • Heat Treating Knives, Blades etc
    • Historical Blades
    • Spears, Arrows, Pole arms, Mace/hammer etc.
    • Swordsmithing
  • Non-ferrous metal working
    • General Metal Specific Discussion
    • Aluminum Alloys
    • Copper Alloys
    • Mokume Gane
    • Non-ferrous metal - heat treating
    • Repousse
    • Titanium Alloys
  • Welding / Fabrication
    • Welding/Fab General Discussion
    • Welder's beginers course
    • Welding Equipment
  • Misc Discussions
    • Introduce Yourself
    • Everything Else
    • Events, Hammer ins, Where to meet
    • Book Reviews
    • Tuesday night blueprints
    • Vulcan's Grill, food recipes
    • Farriers and Horse stuff
    • Shop Tips n' Tricks
    • Gunsmithing, Muskets, Flintlocks etc
  • Store
    • Shirts, Apparel, Wearable goods
    • Gas Forge Refractories and Supplies
    • Hand Hammers
    • Books, Printed Material
  • Safety
    • Safety discussions
    • Personal Protection Equipment
    • Zinc, galvanized, and coatings
  • Sections
    • In Case of Emergency
    • Prayer List
  • Blacksmith Groups Forum
    • Australia
    • Canada
    • South Africa
    • United Kingdom
    • Ukraine
    • United States
    • Inactive


  • Pages
  • Articles
  • Blueprints
    • 00 series
    • Original Series
    • 100 Series
    • Uri Hofi Series
  • Lessons in Blacksmithing
  • Miscellaneous
  • Stories
  • The Smithy
  • You Might Be A
    • You might be a Coppersmith if
    • You might be a Tinsmith if
    • You might be a Machinist if
    • You might be a Knifemaker if
    • You might be a farrier if
  • Vulcan's Grill


  • Books
    • Introductory
  • Newsletters
    • AABA Anvil's Horn
    • New England Blacksmiths Newsletter
  • Trade Journals
    • American Blacksmith and Motor Shop

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL











Found 13 results

  1. thought this was an interesting advancement in the knifemaking world leave your opinions on this Steak knife made from hardened wood is 3 times sharper than steel (newatlas.com) M.J.Lampert
  2. So I have a knife I'm making (what a shock) and I plan to use some red wood that I found to make the handle. I don't have the equipment to stabilized the wood and I know that moisture and such will cause the wood to warp if it's not stabilized. My question is, if I use linseed oil on the wood, will it protect the wood from absorbing excess moisture and warping? Alternatively, is there any way that I can stabilize the wood without having to make some elaborate vacuum chamber? Please let me know what you think. Thanks for reading. - Novak
  3. Hey All, I've done a bit of reading into electrolysis and gassifiers for a more cost effective way to forge. Since the main cost of running a forge is the fuel I'm trying to cut down on that, especially being on a limited income. From my relatively limited research I've concluded that a gassifier is much more practical and most-likely safer then electrolysis, however there may be some potential to automate fuel production with electrolysis that a gassifier doesn't have the feasibility of doing. I really like the idea of hooking my forge up to a water line and never having to go out for propane again. Going back on topic, I've done some reading on the forums in regards to gassifiers and it appears that a cleaning system (ie radiator and cyclone containers) aren't nessisary for a gassifier with the intention of powering a forge because water vapor and tar don't matter like they would in a combustion engine. If I do build it I plan to run it off of wood chips because I have about a lifetime supply of them, save them decomposing. However not having prototyped anything yet I would like to hear people's opinions who are a whole lot older and wiser than mine. Is this feasible and if it is what are the obstacles in building and using this contraption that I should be aware of? Thanks -Will
  4. Hi everyone! I have been lurking around the forum for the last 9 months this weekend I finally built a forge and tried making a knife. I built a side blast charcoal forge from an old BBQ grill and a few Hard Fire Bricks. I used the fire bricks because they where free. the teyure is a piece of 2 inch horse fence pipe. My wife got me a 15 pound HF ASO and a HF1x30 belt grinder for my birthday. I'm working with used farriers rasps because I get them for $1 each. I checked the rasp for hardness by heating them to non magnetic then water quenching it. after it cooled I placed it on the ASO and gave it a smack with a 18oz framing hammer and it broke clean in half. I know working with mystery steel isn't the best way to start but I figured for learning how to grind and shape its a start for really cheap. the forge has 3 bricks on the bottom to make a flat shelf then 6 bricks to make the fire pit. I have a large cotton wood tree that fell and have cut my wood from that. I started the fire with just plane wood then placed the steel into the charcoal once it burns down some. for a air source I have a 2 speed heat gun that I'm currently using. so far I have made one blade and I feel pretty good about the setup. there is a few tweaks. I have to give everyone on this forum a huge THANK YOU for all the information you provide. Looking at the hobby it looked like I could never get into it but ready the forum made me realize I could get started with a little scrounging. I have $0 into the forge and other then what my wife has bought me I have used tools I already had in my shop.
  5. Hi, I've made a couple of knives via stock removal, and I want to try my hand at forging one. I'm planning on building a wood forge using a gas grill lid. I'm using wood because I have an unlimited, free supply of it, and coal is hard to get cheaply in my area. I know that wood has a number of drawbacks, like it has to burn a while to get the coals burnt down to forge with, but I'm still going for it. My question is this, do I need to line the inside of the grill lid with firebricks? I'm 90% sure the lid is stainless steel, and I'm using black iron pipe with holes drilled in it for the air supply. Most of the coal forges I've seen don't have firebricks or insulation, but there's also usually a huge bed of coals which I'm assuming provides insulation. Will the forge get hot enough without firebricks to forge with? Or will the stainless steel get too hot and deform causing the whole thing to fall apart? I know Whitlox's wood forge uses kaowool and firebrick for insulation, which makes me wonder why wood needs insulation, but coal doesn't. On a side note, I know coal forges need a hole in the bottom to push the burnt ashes through, should I cut a hole in the bottom beneath the air supply pipe for the wood ashes to fall through? I'll probably have more questions coming. Thanks for the help, Luke
  6. I have an old, extremely heat resistant clay pot. I need to know if this can be made into a wood forge, strictly wood, I live in a heavily wooded area in western WY and this is the only fuel that is free. I do not have a propane torch. Can this flower pot be turned to a makeshift forge? Or would I have better luck digging a pit fire?
  7. With coal and propane being a fossil fuel. What if all the left over pine Christmas trees be stripped and have a way to bake out the moisture. I live between 5 large Developments all of the people barely get there trees to the curb. Does anyone have ideas the best way to cure and how hard it may be to char the main tree stalk. Example they be cut to 4 or 6 inch logs then split .. plus i believe my lean too will store this pine poles untill spring..
  8. Man, I've been posting a lot for the last couple days. Hope no one's getting sick of me yet! Anyway, I'm making a little skinner from some 5160 for an American explorer themed set. Because the theme is 19th century (though the knives are of a more modern design), I'd like to use wood for all the handles. Here's the rub: I want the skinner's handle to be very aggressively textured to make it more slip-resistant when you've got your hands deep inside a deer or elk carcass... I'm thinking something along the lines of the popular wood texturing you see on the grip of a 1911--kind of a diamond-y pattern... Any ideas? I was thinking maybe one of those Dremel sandpaper discs without a backing would cut a thin enough line that it would work, but any of the burrs might be too thick. Google hasn't turned up much because most "gun grip texturing" is about how to melt polymer.
  9. Hello! So many beautiful axes in this thread, I feel completely humbled by all of the artistry. I am working towards making my first axe. I still have to make my drifts before I can do it, but hopefully soon after that I'll be starting. I had a couple of simple questions though; at least, hopefully simple questions. One, how many sizes of drift do you think I need? I have a slit punch that I made, but I am curious if I should do a 1/2, 3/4, and 1 inch drift, or if just a 3/4 and a 1 inch will do the job? Wouldn't be difficult to make the extra one, but I'm just curious what the experts think. I am leaning towards making square drifts for my first ones; seems like it will be easier to carve a square handle than a round one. Two, what type of wood do you prefer for your handles? I have 20-some wooded acres, so I imagine I have access to just about any kind of tree that grows in Southern Indiana, and I would like to source the handle material from something locally here on my property, and carve the handle myself. Even if it does wind up far more "rustic" than intended. :) Three, starting material. For ease of use, I thought that I might just pick up a 4" piece of 1x1 steel at the local warehouse. Rather than trying to forge my first hawk out of scrap that may require more work, (and skill,) I thought I might start with something simple and then move on to making them out of other things. I don't want to over-complicate my first one. I appreciate in advance any responses to this question, and I hope that I am not over-reaching with a project of this size at my current level of experience, (or lack thereof.)
  10. Today I want to share with you all the forge that I constructed from scrap lumber, steel fence-posts and wire mesh, all found around my house. The screws were mostly extras that my dad had laying around, and everything was done with minimal tools. I want to show what CAN be done, and that you don't have to go fancy to make beautiful artwork. First of all, after I first bought my Champion 400 blower and Whirlwind Firepot, I knew I needed a place to put them, so that I could forge efficiently. This was my original set up. I did work like this for about 6 or 7 months, which was a real drag. The fuel always fell out of the heap, as you can see from the bricks surrounding the pot. So, with a little help from my dad, we scrounged some scrap wood and built this table: As you can see, the forge is wood, with a plywood top and adobe/mud topped with firebricks. This was amazing, forging on top of this puppy. Unfortunately, the first forging only lasted a few minutes... We have smoke! Ignition! Fire! So, this forge caught fire. The plyboard was only an inch away from a hot firepot, and so it reached critical temperatures.... Back to the drawing board! I knew that I was not going back to this rubble pile of a forge. It was just plain inconvenient! So, I measured, and began to cut the fence posts! The fence posts spanned the wood, now devoid of the plywood. Note the T shape of the fence posts: I had to cut a notch to accommodate the posts in each piece of wood. A test fitting of my firepot! This is the general idea of my wooden forge. There is between 8 and 12 inches from the wood to the firepot in any direction. The next step, accomplished many months later, when the snow was long gone: I covered the whole thing with wire mesh, and doused it with dissolved borax in water. Its a fireproofing thing. The back needed to be cut out, and so I did that and added reinforcements so it didn't cave in. I used old flex tubing for the air pipe. It works great! This is the underside. I added cut open steel food cans as deflectors to reflect the heat back from the wood. This added layer of insurance is great, it works like a charm. It is tied with wire to the mesh up top. The forge, finished for now, and with a bright fire licking coal smoke off those smooth black rocks. The fire bricks are movable and temporary. I am not quite done modifying the forge; I would like a steel top rather than the wire mesh, but that will come whenever I can find a filing cabinet or a washing machine shell... Here's the whole smithy, under the sprawling elm tree or whatever the poet wrote. I'd rather have a roof. After the fire was all raked away. The mesh holds the coal well enough! A view of the ash dump, held there by wire. Slightly primitive, but its what I've got. A view of the underside after I raked away the coals. The blower, the thing that makes it hotttttt!!! This is how I have my blower mounted: I have the feet cut off and the tube goes straight int the stump, which has holes drilled to accommodate the piping. There was enough airflow to keep the coals glowing hot for a little while. Amazing! Thus, I completed my forge, in all of its glory! Its not DONE, but its getting there. I just wanted to share this with everyone, contstructive criticism is appreciated, and I wanted to encourage those who don't have welding experience that they can build a workable forge! ~Ridgewayforge
  11. a couple of neat looking scraps of solid wood flooring I picked up.
  12. I'm building a workbench for my handtool work. I have to chop out some mortises. I decided to craft this mortising chisel to work with. Included are before finish and finished pictures. Started with 3/4" square stock.
  13. Here is the stump build for the anvil I made in another thread: http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/31084-my-first-anvil-build-looking-for-advice/ It's not quite done, but I was able to get most of it done in a couple weeknights with the help of some awesome, old chainsaws i inherited from my Grandfather. Here is approximately what it will look like. On the near side I carved a foot hole so I can stand really close and try to save my already bad back. And the far side was left uncut so I can drill some holes for tool holders. These are the two saws I used and the only two power tools used to make the stump. The big boy is a late 1950s McCulloch 35A, which needed a minor rebuild and was used to chop the three sides. The smaller one is a McCulloch Mini Mac and I used that for all the detail work. Here is a closeup of my foot hole design, it also shows how I carved three "legs" into the base. With those legs, the stump sits perfectly flat on the ground, no rocking whatsoever. Its pretty stout. Sweet litterbox in the background, huh? I have seen a few posts of people using routers mounted on sleighs to flatten their anvil stumps, I went with the less sophisticated route, it also only took about 30 minutes start to finish and it is almost perfectly flat. Here is basically how I did it: First cut the base to a tripod so it sits flat on the ground, make sure it is where you want it because after you level the face, any adjustments to the feet will throw off the level. Next get a straight edge or level and lay it across the face at various places/angles. In each placement mark the pivot point of the straight edge. That is the high spot. I just put a squiggle with a sharpie to mark all the high spots. Knock down all the high spots until the face is flat. Then proceed to leveling (you can do this the same time as the flattening step). I lay the chainsaw down as flat as I can and slide it across the face as depicted below, using very quick passes, maybe 2-3 seconds to skim across the whole thing. This brings down one side or the other, but keeps the whole thing flat. It takes a lot of passes, but at 3 seconds a piece you can do 20 passes in a minute (which is enough to take off probably 1/4-1/2 inch across the whole face). Repeat the whole process until you get it as flat and as level as you want. No building frames, sleds, etc. Just start up the chainsaw and have a straight edge and sharpie on hand. I'll post some more pictures as I finish the last details. The key to working with a chainsaw for shaping, which I'm sure everyone would learn very quickly is never to stop moving the chainsaw, if you do it bites in and cuts a deep slot. Don't even use the weight of the chainsaw, maybe only 1/4-1/2 the weight, it is amazing how quickly it will skim the surface down if you aren't careful. One question, anyone have recommendations for preserving the wood? It is still pretty wet and I don't want to let it crack too badly. I was thinking about just coating the whole thing with boiled linseed oil or a nice wood stain.
  • Create New...