Search the Community

Howdy folks, been looking for an anvil and I MIGHT have hit the jackpot. This guy says he has a Lewis anvil (doesn't sound like he know's exactly what he's got), and he's selling it for $1 per lb. I need some better pictures, but from the ones below, can y'all tell if it's too pitted/chipped on the top to be worth the buy? thanks

We'll searching for a new anvil is australia is slow and boring work so today I pulled out a piece of steel that was left over from a job three years ago my plan is to use this as the base of my anvil maybe just trim it a bit and weld a lop plate on or cat two ASO,s and weld them together and then weld top plate on top plate will be 50or60mm bis alloy 80 this will be cut to resemble a face and German style pointy horn I will then turn a horn from 4140 or something and weld it to the other end I plan on a few prickle holes and a hardy hole will end up looking something like uri,s anvils fergy 1300mm x800 mm and100 mm thick has an eight missing

I went to a preview of an Estate Auction in Port Newark, NJ today. Definitely falls into the category of heavy iron. I am standing in front of a 13? yd clamshell scoop, used for dredging in NY harbor. They say it weighs 24,000 lbs. Lots of anchor chain. Some parts out of a big crane. The gear is about 8' diameter. Anchors. From about 1500 lb to 3000 lb.

Hello my fellow metal workers, First, I have found there are many people looking at getting into blacksmithing; but they either do not have the money for the tools, or they do not know how to make their own. Second, I have found equally as many who do not want to spend a large amount of time and or money making a beginning anvil, only to replace it if they really get into the hobby. Third, I have found even more people who are young and moving around, and simply do not think they can move blacksmithing supplies around, more specifically an anvil. As an engineer, my goal is to solve problems. To me it seems there is an obvious problem, and such a problem raises a few engineering goals. My engineering goals are as follows: 1. Find a way to make an anvil for under $100 2. Find a way to make this anvil good enough that it will not need to be replaced by a new one, should the user really get into the hobby. 3. Find a way to make this anvil large and heavy enough to be comparable in performance to an elite large anvil. 4. Find a way to make this anvil portable enough that it can be easily moved around; while also retaining foundation stability. With these engineering goals in mind, let's make one XXXXXXX anvil! Please read the terms of service for IFI and please watch your language. A link is at the lower right corner of every page.

I know you guys say that I-Beam is useless as an anvil... but I can't help but wonder if a chunk of this beast would be acceptable. That's a ten dollar bill held to it by small magnets to give a scale reference. My estimate is that a 12" length of it should weigh around 1200 lbs. The sides and web are 6" thick. The sides are 24" wide and the web between the sides is about 18"

I found this in the boneyard at a machinist I've met's shop. he wasn't there when I stopped by, so I didn't get to ask him about it... anybody know what it is? The frame it was sitting on, not bolted to though... looked like a large industrial press of some sort... well, the remains of one. http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/37089-anvilbasemaybe/

Hi all, Just thought I'd share some photos of the anvil stand that I finished today. I started this project about 3 weeks ago, but got called away on a work trip. This weekend I finally managed to finish it off. Here it is: The top is a 12" x 15" x 1 1/2" steel plate. I got it from a local steel fabricator for cheap. It was originally a long strip, 48" long by 12" wide, but they cut it into 3 pieces for $25. So one day I can build two more anvil stands with the other two pieces. The legs are 2" x 5" rectangular tube with 1/4" wall thickness. The angle of the legs (~9 degrees) is such that all vertical force applied at the top of the stand is transmitted directly down into the floor. If the legs were angled out more, then vertical forces would try to spread the legs apart, giving the stand some springiness. Using wide pipe stock, and keeping the leg angle so that the tops of the legs vertically overlap with the leg bottoms, eliminates the springiness. The feet are 7 1/2" long pieces of 3" x 1/2" strap. I put holes in the feet in case one day I want to permanently fix the stand in my shop. The welding was done using a 120V Lincoln Electric Migpak 140 with 0.035" flux core wire. Taking some cues from forum topics and chat discussions here on IFI, I didn't bolt the anvil to the stand. The 1" x 1/4" steel straps keep it from rotating or walking during hammering. So far it seems the anvil is heavy enough that it does not need to be bolted down. If it turns out it does need to, then it will be an easy modification. Thanks in particular to TechnicusJoe for fruitful discussions. Last night when I seated the anvil inside the straps, I found that it rocked back and forth unacceptably. The anvil base was not perfectly flat. So I flipped over the anvil, and using another piece of plate as a flat reference, I ground down the base to make it flat. About 30 minutes of careful grinding eliminated the rocking motion completely. To make the fit even more snug, I cut a piece of rubber floor mat and put it between the anvil and the stand. This anvil (a 217# Wilkinsons) does not have a very loud ring to begin with, but the rubber seemed to make it a bit quieter nonetheless. Thanks for looking. Comments and criticisms welcomed! All the best Markus