Need help with tuning Frosty T-burner

[Erik F.]

Great! Thanks so much for the input, Frosty. I do have some leftover Plistix. If I understand you correctly, I just literally dip the burner (6” nipple) in a cup of the solution so that both the interior and exterior of the nipple get coated?

 

On another note, I think I need to take care of two things before tinkering/tuning my burner further. Any advice is appreciated:

1. With the new burner sleeve, I was hoping that I could angle my burner higher up on the far wall of the interior (per earlier suggestions) but it looks like the flame is still angled right at the junction of the wall and floor. Unfortunately, the refractory along the roof of my burner port is too tight, preventing me from angling the burner higher up. Should I chip/grind away at this refractory and “re-cast” my port again so that I can improve the flame angle? Is it important enough?

2. I’m getting a decent amount of heat coming back into my new burner holder (specifically, the floor flange) - see pic. I do have a partial gap between the forge shell and the flange (b/c of the shell’s curved surface). (There’s also a small interior gap b/t the sleeve and the burner pipe.) I was thinking of putting some Inswool b/t the shell and the floor flange in hopes of decreasing the heat transfer. Thoughts? 
 

Thanks again,

Erik

[Frosty]

Yes, dip or paint the end inch or two with kiln wash.

A line of wool between the floor flange and forge shell will prevent it blowing through the gap. However that is an indication you need to advance the burner a LITTLE deeper into the refractory. 

If you can't aim the burner higher without remaking the burner port you can either remake the port or use it as is until it's time to build another forge. The choice is yours.  I'd use it for a while before making drastic changes though, don't be in a hurry.

Frosty The Lucky.

[Erik F.]

Sounds good. Thanks again, Frosty.