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I Forge Iron

goofyboson

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About goofyboson

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  1. Thanks Frosty, you've made my options quite clear! Seems this cross design is a quick and dirty approximation to what you suggest with the 1/8" scd. 80 nipple, and trading power for flexibility isn't what I'm trying to do. I'll use a basic T-Burner for now, and revisit the variable nozzle depth when I have nothing better to do.
  2. Awesome! Thanks for the input. I was unaware of Frosty's lamp rod design, I'll have to hunt it down. The 3/4" cross will certainly increase air inlet impedance, though I could cut out the threads to bring it closer to the 1" in the original design (and maybe reduce air inlet turbulence? Might check with FEA). At some point it's reinventing the wheel, and if I go that far I might play around with some of the 3D-printed Venturi designs. At this stage I'm just trying to get my forge warmed up, so I'll plumb this out, but also throw together a standard T-Burner.
  3. Thanks Steve! I'm still learning my way around. I've read through several of the introductory threads, and am working through Porter's book now. Certainly a lot to get through.
  4. I'm working on a small mod to Frosty's T-Burner. I had purchased a 3/4" T-Burner, but the nozzle was visibly out of alignment. Also, it seemed that the Venturi effect wasn't properly tuned (depth of mig tip), since the flame would blow itself out unless the air inlets were nearly entirely choked off, though maybe this was the nozzle alignment too. To solve these problems I'm thinking of running propane through a threaded pipe that screws into an adapter on a pipe cross (rather than a Tee). This should roughly center the nozzle, while also allowing a variable mig tip depth. This approach requires the 3/4" npt(m) x 1/8" npt(f) adapter to be tapped to nps, and the ends of the 1/8" nps pipe to be died out to npt. The rest of the build is just assembly. Does anyone see anything glaringly inadequate or dangerous about this approach? I'm still waiting on some parts before I leak test and try to light it.
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