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Found 11 results

  1. Hello everyone my name is Eric and I am posting today in search of help! The past two weeks Ive been having issues with my burners I have built. The first one was just a general easy burner build I found online. It didnt have a name to it and was cheaply built. The one I just built and am having issues with now is a Venturi/blower hybrid burner. I found the design on a different blacksmith forum website. The problem I am having is my burner is not producing a correct torch flame. At 10 psi i cannot open the ball valve 100% without the flame being own out. And when it stays lit the flame is very rich and it sputters. Can someone please help me? I live in colorado at about 5280 ft above elevation, I am adding photos below. I have the middle part of the T connection blocked off because when its open there is so much air it blows the flame out. I then drilled holes infront if the mig tip for more air? I don't know what i am doing. Im really new to this and am really discouraged Thank you!
  2. I have a fire brick forge with a frosty tee style burner of 3/4" this is the second time I have build it since all my fire bricks have cracked. I finally ordered some Rutland refractory cement abut 15lbs of it hoping that will help my heating issues before this I could get 1" square mild steel up to a yellow heat now I can only get to a orange heat just barely at 6-12 psi on 1/4" rebar. I'm getting a vector edge 2.0 high flow reg. hoping that will also help. I'm not in an enclosed shop but in a 3 walled 10x9 shed that I build on my parents land (I think its called a run-in shed) so I'm exposed to the elements and I know that will have some effects on it. "Just do it but, be ready to run like xxxx." i this was the 1st thing I made before all the bricks cracked
  3. I have a forge blower that has gets that don’t track properly. The larger There is a total of 4 gears. 1 large gear from turn crank, 2 small transition gear, 3 small turn gear, 4 small gear to fan. If you can tell from the pictures the transition gear only mates against the large turn crank gear about an 1/8 of an inch. In addition the apparatus of the large gear won’t sit flush in on the four posts. It may be that a baring is missing that holds the small gear up higher so it mates against the large gear. I’ve tried to include enough pictures to give y’all a good idea of how it should work. Any advice is appreciated. -Will
  4. I am having a very confusing issue. I have built my own forge and burners. I have 0.35 tips and a 0 - 40 psi regulator. My issue is that for some reason I can't get that jet like burn. It doesn't have that jet like sound or pressure. I am at my witts end and I don't know what else to do?
  5. Greetings! I wanted to see if the experts on this forum might catch any red flags that may be causing combustion issues with my forge. I shot a quick video demonstrating the issue. The problem starts 3 mins, 10 secs in: I built this based mostly on the David Hammer Super C Forge and burner design (minus the side access slot). It has been running stable for months, but now after running for around 30 mins, the point of combustion shifts from the interior of the forge, to the end of the flair (about 1 inch inside the refractory). I get less time if I run it hotter. The burner port leaves about 1/4 inch of space around burner flair. Before shooting the video, I has run for a little over 30 mins. I let it cool for about 15 mins to capture the transition. Don't know if I need to tune the burner, if there are issues with my refractory, or something else that I might not have considered. I've been doing this for around 6-7 months so my knowlege is pretty limited. Any thoughts on where I might be going wrong here? Thank you for any input you might have.
  6. Hello everyone! So we (me and my father) just tried to make one of Jarom Rush's Venturi burners (instructional video series) for our first forge (of Zoeller's design). However, I am having a few problems: 1. We couldn't find any 1 1/4" to 3/4" reducers, so we put an additional piece to decrease to the appropriate size. I assume that by deviating from the original design, we messed something up. 2. We have no adjustable PSI regulator. The one we tried to use seemed far too low for the torch to do anything; do I even need a PSI regulator? 3. When we light the flame, it doesn't seem...right. In other words, it either will not light unless we keep the flame to it, or if we turn the PSI's down the flame is too weak. Here is the video of the forge in action without the weak PSI regulator, though you should bear in mind that this is just a quickly thrown-together pile of firebricks in a frame to test the burner. If you don't want to watch Jarom's thing, I put a list of all the parts' dimensions below the video. IMG_1074.MOV PARTS LIST: Orifice hole: #57 (0.043") Nozzle: 8" length of 3/4" black iron pipe. (We cut off an extra inch afterwards because we read some forums and thought it would help ) Reducers: 1 1/4" to 1" bell reducer, followed by a 1" to 3/4" adapter - 1/4" street elbow - 1/4" union - 1/4" brass plug (drilled for the orifice) Is the #57 orifice too large, or should I go with the 0.035" MIG tip? I'd appreciate any feedback or fixes. I want to make this work so I can make a leaf spring karambit soon! ~ Royal
  7. Soo, where to begin. I built a little trash can forge with one of those handheld burners for the heat source, after watching some YouTube videos and thought, that looks easy enough.. And straight off the bat I ran into some issues. The burner is a Rothenberger Industrial, that runs off of a butane/propane mix (70/30% - Rothenberger Multigas 300, if anyone is familiar with it). The can says the gas can potentially get to 1900°C. The nozzle however gets to only about 800ish (it can get a 1/4" piece of steel to cherry red in about a minute or two). Is that good enough to get a forge up to yellow heat? I just want to start forging, not looking to forge weld right now as I'm a complete novice. Now, the forge itself is made from a 3 liter stainless steel trash can, that's open at both ends (attached the lid back on to serve as the back wall and is removable). The refractory is 2" of silica sand mixed with water glass (again, got it from YouTube) and it's somewhat solid-ish (it crumbles easily), but I think the fact that I couldn't get it to the proper temperature, to get it to set is one of the reasons why it's not working as it should be. It's also not that smooth a texture on the inside. The inside diameter is about 2" as well. How deep into the forge should the nozzle of the burner protrude? Flush with the inside wall? Should I put some high temp cement over the inside, so the heat doesn't dissipate into the forge walls that much? Or just throw it all out and get a ceramic wool refractory with a firebrick base (like the Devil Forges) Could you give me some information where to start, so I can get everything going properly? If you need pics, I can snap some tomorrow during the day.
  8. Greetings, gentlemen. One important question for you, please: My bladesmithing master installed power hammer in his shop - the type embedded in the floor in a deep pit, with proper cushioning (as per instructions). However, when it's put to work, the entire house is shaking - and since it's fairly old house, the end result is that he is unable to use the power hammer at all. It was quite costly, so we're trying to figure out what else can we do to be able to use it. Recently, my master came across notion of some kind of "pneumatic absorption pillows", that could possibly solve this problem. Do any of you, please, have some idea about what might help or where I might get pair of these "pillows"? The desired size is 28x28 cm (that would be about 11x11 inch). Any info and help is much appreciated! Many thanks, Tomas
  9. Greetings, gentlemen. I recently tried to do the stainless Damascus for the first time. In my blacksmithing master's shop (not having my own yet) we followed instructions by Ariel Salaverria to the letter (http://www.aescustomknives.com/docs/tutorial16.htm). On the first attempt, the container burned through after several minutes, hence the stacked steels were too cold to weld. We thought that perhaps the temperature was too high or there was too much WD40 inside. Hence, on the second attempt we put paper soaked in WD40 only on one end of the container and we poured out WD40 after squeezing it inside. We also started with slightly lower temperature. Result - after several minutes the container exploded, scattering burning coke around the shop. Luckily, nobody was injured and the shop didn't catch fire, but it wasn't very nice. Please see the attached picture of container after it was recovered. Any ideas how to do it properly? Is there any other way to do stainless Damascus in the forge? It is a simple coke-burning forge. Many thanks!
  10. I just built one of Ron Reil's mini atmosphere burners. I don't have a nozzle flare on it, but am using a 1" pipe nipple on a 3/4" burner shaft in the meantime as per the design suggestion. I tried lighting the burner with a propane torch and it won't stay lit unless i keep the flame on it. I tried increasing and reducing the gas pressure from 5-17psi with no success. If I turned the supply line off center then it would stay on, but not in a way where it was really burn-blowing, and it led to a flame up. Someone suggested that there was too much air coming in and someone else suggessted that the burner shaft wasn't slid deep into the nozzle enough. I haven't tried either of these suggestions yet, and was looking for some incite. The burner shaft is only stuck in the nozzle a little less than an inch. it's an 8" shaft with a 3" nozzle.
  11. Hello all, This is my first real post, and it starts with a problem. Today I snapped a knife blade in half. A friend asked for a filet knife so I forged one as thin as I could get it. I am using a propane/firebrick forge. The steel was car leaf spring steel. I forged the blade. Normalized it twice. Heated it to bright orange, quenched it in motor oil once. Out of the motor oil the blade warped a small amount. I then polished the blade up some, and put it in a toaster oven at 400F for an hour. Once it was finished, I put it back into the oven for 425F for another hour. I began polishing again and sharpening the blade but still tried to figure out what to do with the warped blade. I took a small micro butane torch and heated the blade near the warp to a dark brown/ blue thinking it would add flexibility. I squeezed the blade in a vise but the warp remained. So, I grabbed the blade with two hands and attempted to bend it a little bit and the whole blade snapped in two. I will attempt to upload a photo, but this is my first attempt at photo uploading. I have crafted 10 or 11 blades before this but none this thin. Any help on troubleshooting my work procedures would be greatly appreciated.
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