wpmforge Posted July 7, 2021 Share Posted July 7, 2021 Hi all, this is my first post on here and I’ve come to quite the conundrum. This is my first time trying to build a forge or any burners. I’m not any sort of propane expert and I’m trying to build a forge burner. I got my design off of youtube and have tried two different ones. Neither of them have worked even though I built them almost identical to the video. I see so many that look exactly like mine and I have tried many different things with airflow, hole size, nipple length, adjusting the psi… nothing works and I was hoping to possibly get some answers on here. Any sort of help would be greatly appreciated and thanks so much if anyone reads this! Side note: sorry if anything about this post is wrong… it’s my first time. Pics attached Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pnut Posted July 7, 2021 Share Posted July 7, 2021 Welcome aboard. You can get a downloadable pdf made by Frosty himself. Don't make it almost exactly like it though. Follow the directions and measurements exactly. I'll see if I can find a link. Frosty will probably be around at some point if I can't find it. Pnut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 7, 2021 Share Posted July 7, 2021 What size are the openings in the T? How long is the mixing tube? What is the problem with it burning? Generally I suggest you contact the person whose design you followed as THEY are the folks to support it. If they don't; what does it tell you about the design you chose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pnut Posted July 7, 2021 Share Posted July 7, 2021 https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/43976-t-burner-illustrated-directions/ Pnut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpmforge Posted July 7, 2021 Author Share Posted July 7, 2021 T holes are 3/4”, Pipe is 8” but alive also tried 12”. When I turn the propane up high the small blue flame I can sometimes get going goes out. Thanks for the help I’ll look at the frosty T blueprints. Like I said it was just a design off of Youtube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 7, 2021 Share Posted July 7, 2021 Yup in a Frosty T the side hole is DIFFERENT than the end holes and there is a known good ratio for size vs length of mixing tube. As the whole set up is to correctly meter and mix the gas; changing just one element screws everything up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpmforge Posted July 7, 2021 Author Share Posted July 7, 2021 Ok, I think I get it now. Thanks for all the help Thomas I’ll try out making the frosty T with the right stuff this time lol. I appreciate it and thanks for the blueprint pnut! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 7, 2021 Share Posted July 7, 2021 Welcome aboard wpmforge, glad to have you. If you put your general location in the header you'll have a better chance of hooking up with members living within visiting distance. This is the problem with Youtube experts, too many have no better qualifications than a camera and internet connection. There are some fundamental mistakes in your burner, parts list. Check out the T burner directions pnut linked (thanks pnut) and give me a shout if you have questions. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzkill Posted July 7, 2021 Share Posted July 7, 2021 Just another observation here. I can't tell for sure from the first pic, but that regulator on your propane tank may not be suitable for this application. The preferred regulators are adjustable from 0 to at least 20 psi (0 to 30 psi is better) and if either the regulator or the propane tank has a flow limiter built in to it you will not be able to get the combination of pressure and volume needed for one of these burners to function correctly. Having said that, start with a properly built burner and then we can troubleshoot other issues afterwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 7, 2021 Share Posted July 7, 2021 Good catch Buzz, I was focused on the burner and missed the regulator. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpmforge Posted July 7, 2021 Author Share Posted July 7, 2021 The regulator on the propane tank is rated up to 30 psi… Made sure if that when the first test went wrong lol! Thank you guys for all the help. Buying correct supplies soon I’ll post an update in a few days hopefully! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted July 7, 2021 Share Posted July 7, 2021 That leaves the propane tank with a limiter then. All the new 20 pound (BBQ tanks) have the limiter in the valve. Try just cracking the valve and slowly opening it up. From the picture of the handle it is the new type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted July 7, 2021 Share Posted July 7, 2021 One photo, when enlarged, shows the MIG tip nowhere near center. The flame retention nozzle is way too large to have eny effect. Also, the "T" fitting looks to have the same diameter center opening as the two other openings, which would be wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpmforge Posted July 12, 2021 Author Share Posted July 12, 2021 Hey all, Thanks so much for everyone’s help on my previous post. My father and I followed the directions and bought new materials from Frosty’s blueprints for making a new Frosty T burner, but still no dice. I also tried to change the propane tank as per one suggestion, but I’m still having the same problems as before… We tried adjusting the MIG tip lengths as suggested in the pdf as well and that didn’t work either. I’ve attached pictures and just hoping to get some answers lol. Really hoping to work it out as I’m excited to get started. Thanks again for all of the awesome help on the original post. wpmforge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 I still think it is the tank with the built in flow limiter. The only tanks that have the round valve handle are without a limiter. Take the regulator off, open the valve and see what kind of pressure (flow) you get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpmforge Posted July 12, 2021 Author Share Posted July 12, 2021 Okay we’ll do some experimenting with it. I appreciate the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzkill Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 Can you post a picture of whatever flame you are getting on the burner? That will go a long way towards pointing us in a direction regarding what you should do next. Oh, and if your mixing tube and the coupler on the end of the burner are galvanized you should replace those with black iron fittings or strip the zinc off in a vinegar (or other acid) bath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpmforge Posted July 12, 2021 Author Share Posted July 12, 2021 This is the flame we are able to get if we cover the holes in the T up. Without covering the holes somewhat the flame won’t light at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 OK, enlarging the picture, I just found the name of your regulator 0-30 psi Kinow' researching it I found this specification, so it may also be the regulator. Quote "Built-in Excess Flow Protection and Thermal Protection for your safety. When your propane gas left in your tank too low, or the capacity flow of your appliance exceeds this regulator's Max. flow capacity too much, it will shutoff the gas flow automatically. The regulator can still work when those problems improved, unless it's defective itself." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzkill Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 Ok, a couple things. I see your ball valve is most of the way closed. If your regulator can go to 0 psi on the low end then open the ball valve all the way and control the pressure/flow with the regulator. Without covering the air intakes, when you try to light it, does the flame just blow off the end of the burner as if there is too much pressure? If it does then again turn the pressure down at the regulator and see if you can get it to stay lit with low pressure. If you can get it to stay lit then post a picture of that flame. If not then describe how it behaves when you try to light it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 Is that with the regulator set on low pressure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpmforge Posted July 12, 2021 Author Share Posted July 12, 2021 Yes, the flame just blows off the end of the pipe as if the pressure is too high if we don’t cover the holes. I’ll try to get the flame to stay lit at a low pressure and post a picture. Tried adjusting the flow with the regulator and at low pressure the flame would barely light but it would putter in and out before eventually just going out completely. At higher pressures the flame would stay near the end of the pipe while the blowtorch was near it but at soon as we take the torch away the flame goes out. Sorry for my ignorance about this stuff… I don’t know too much about propane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 You need to use the male half of a quick-disconnect for water hose, to show you exactly where the gas jet is normally positioned in burner mode. You will find it isn't anywhere near centered. This device will allow you to check jet position, after you bend the MIG tip. This, believe it or not, is the simplest and cheapest path to success with your burner, at this point. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 Are these pictures after you "tuned" the burner? If not there isn't much I or anyone can tell you. I can't tell what's wrong with your attempt to tune it without seeing what you did. You built this burner from galvanized pipe it is not safe to use. I just double checked the T burner plans I posted here. On the first page I call for BLACK IRON pipe and fittings. Before you light that again, LOSE THE GALVANIZED COMPONENTS! LOSE the 1"x3/4" T. LOSE the 3/4" x 6" galvanized nipple. LOSE the galvanized 3/4" coupler. Replace them with UNPLATED, black iron pipe. Losing the galvanized is VERY important you can poison yourself using them. I didn't put anything in those plans that isn't important without saying specifically that builder judgment or experimentation is necessary. For example determining the mig tip diameter for burners other than 3/4" is up to the builder to determine by experimentation. If the builder wants to change something they it's a MUST to change the whole burner according to the ratios as SPELLED OUT in the directions. That you have to choke it almost completely to produce an oxygen free flame without it blowing out tells me one thing. You did something very basic very wrong. If I choke one of mine that much as I have demonstrating builds it doesn't blow that much flame. Please don't say you followed my directions, you obviously have not. Probably not your fault some folk don't grasp this as easily as others. Lord knows it took me long enough to figure it out. I believe you are mixing what you THINK you understand from my plans with what you THINK you already know from watching Youtube videos. You have to actually follow the plans as written or there's not much anybody can do. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpmforge Posted July 13, 2021 Author Share Posted July 13, 2021 Hey Frosty, thanks for the response. I have put the galvanized parts in an acid bath to get rid if the zinc coating, but I appreciate the concern. Galvanized was all the local hardware store had in the correct sizes, but if black iron is required for a reason of propane flow then we can order it online. The MIG tip is .035 as stated in the blueprints. We have tried a couple different lengths of MIG tips as suggested as well. The only deviation from the plans (that I know of, I’m not guaranteeing that I didn’t overlook something) is in the ball valve attached to the top of the burner but I just didn’t think that would affect anything with the actual flow of propane. All of the fittings are sized exactly as per the plans. Thank you all for all of the help. We’ll try to experiment with some stuff the next couple days. I really appreciate everything wpmforge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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