671jungle Posted March 15, 2019 Share Posted March 15, 2019 1/4" idea. Jet: mig tip fitted with .015 capillary tube and soldered into 1/4" elbow. Air chamber: coupling with 3 slots cut into every other side. Interior sanded smooth. Barrel: 1/4" pipe beveled on chamber side for fam flow. (the galvy will be soaked) Nozzle: ??? Currently have this stainless fitting I will try to tailer it to. Just a little experiment for a high power hand torch. Per Mikey's challenge, though not quite the same design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted March 15, 2019 Share Posted March 15, 2019 That's just as well about departing from the original design; it was just a little too hotroded up too work out well in this size, so going a little down stream at this point is likely to work out just fine One thing you'll want to check is that the pipe nipple's ends are both cleand of any burr left over by the pipe cutter; they are inclined to leave them, and an internal burr at either end of the pipe nipple will screw up air flow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted March 15, 2019 Share Posted March 15, 2019 You haven't made the air opening yet, so I suggest you start with holes; then lengthen them into slots; then square the slots; then bevel the squares; always watching the effect on the flame. That will be one method of tuning the burner. Sanding the needle shorter will be another. You have a big advantage over people who don't already know what they are searching for in the flame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
671jungle Posted March 16, 2019 Author Share Posted March 16, 2019 .015 brass tube came in today so I got busy. Pressed the .025 mig tip into the elbow and checked for air leaks. Drilled out the tip by hand with tiny drills. (A bit tedious but worth the effort and minimizes damaging the small tool.) After desired depth, I went back with a smaller bit to get a taper and ensure the seal. Cut the tube, sanded even, cleaned out the orifice and slowly pressed it into the .025 mig tip using a small vice, being sure not to bend the tube. Cleaned orifice again. Drilled holes and cleaned out the interior of the coupling (air chamber). Also gave them their first round of bevel and enlarging treatment. Barrel cut to meet intake then beveled. Rich burn. Tomorrow I will continue to enlarge until I get a slightly reducing flame. Oh and strip the galvy! This thing fired up as soon as I struck the lighter. And is stable through the reg. range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted March 16, 2019 Share Posted March 16, 2019 It is quite interesting so far. You are off to a good start. I just love seeing apple carts knocked over; even mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
671jungle Posted March 17, 2019 Author Share Posted March 17, 2019 Thanks Mike! Its an honor to have your help with all this, and a pleasure to knock over your apple cart! Question, Do you think one of these would suffice in a small melter? Say... a coffee can size? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted March 17, 2019 Share Posted March 17, 2019 Yes for melting aluminum; needs just a little more to melt brass. Enlarge the air openings a l-i-t-t-l-e bit more; not a lot though, or the flame will probably get cranky to handle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elimsprint Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 Where are you getting the capillary tube, I have been searching everywhere up here to no avail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
671jungle Posted October 24, 2022 Author Share Posted October 24, 2022 4 minutes ago, elimsprint said: Where are you getting the capillary tube, I have been searching everywhere up here to no avail. I cant post the link for whatever reason. Search drawn brass tube with desired ID on ebay. I just looked it up. Its still there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 There are several sources for capillary tube, but the simple source for you would be hypodermic needles. You can look on line to see proximate inside diameter of these needles. After the needle is trapped in a MIG tip, it is easy to tune (to adjust for actual inside diameters, which change according to wall thickness), by sanding the end of the MIG tip, and its trapped needle, using #400 grit sandpaper. 671jungle, It's always good to hear from you. It has been about three years since you built your burner. How do you like it? What do you use it for/in? Inquiring minds long to know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted October 26, 2022 Share Posted October 26, 2022 If you have a rotary tool or die grinder, it would be interesting to see how much your flame might improve, if you ground away the thread that is showing inside of the brass forge body, so as to increase air flow. The same trick could be performed with a small double cut tungsten carbide rotary file; thiese are inexpensive and easily purchased through Amazon.com. Such a file would allow even something as slow as a drill motor to to the job in a few minutes time, because you would only be cutting away the threaded portion of that material, so half its volume is just air. Ups! My mistake; that isn't thread showing beyond the brass body; it seems more likely to be what you are using for a gas orifice. Nevertheless, if you extend you air opening forward another 1/4" the burner flame should grow larger and hotter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
671jungle Posted November 1, 2022 Author Share Posted November 1, 2022 On 10/24/2022 at 2:29 PM, Mikey98118 said: always good to hear from you. It has been about three years since you built your burner. How do you like it? What do you use it for/in? Inquiring minds long to know Hello, and thank you! Its been a busy and crazy last couple years. the burner works great. Very efficient and hot. I can burn steel in it. The stainless flame “nozzle” is still holding up but has noticeable corrosion. Both still burn neutral with a fast flame. Still rigid as ever. I can pull the bottom mounted burners out of the forge and knock debris out of the torch and stick them back in with no issues. The forge itself needs some maintenance work but still works a charm. If I’m guessing right, i get about 40hrs out of it at 20ish psi with two burners running. I have been using it for general forging and making mokume gane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted November 1, 2022 Share Posted November 1, 2022 Thanks for the update. Stainless steel gradully oxidices away under really thigh heat flames, such as yours. #316 stainless lasts longer than 304, but they both get oxidizzed by the flame. I think your fuel consumption sounds pretty good, too. What did you use to make a flame retention nozzle for your burner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
671jungle Posted November 1, 2022 Author Share Posted November 1, 2022 I just realized the final design build isn’t posted here. I think i can fish out a video. The final version is the most rigid design of all the burners I’ve built and can be duplicated in larger sizes. I used 316 stainless for the nozzle I will do a break down in a few weeks when i do some maintenance or possibly rebuild the forge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted November 1, 2022 Share Posted November 1, 2022 Totally excellent flame on this model. I look forward to reading your parts list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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