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I Forge Iron

Another FrankenBurner

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About Another FrankenBurner

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    Senior Member

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    Boise, Idaho
  • Interests
    Tinkering, making things, learning, diagnosing, math/science, programming, cad, CNC, 3D printing, machining, casting, forging, welding, carving.

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  1. I have not payed attention but no ozone that I have detected. I don't have an accurate temperature reading but they are hot enough for me. This is a 3/8" burner with an 0.031" orifice running below one psi in a mini forge. Both the forge and the burner are older designs. I am currently working on updating the 1/4" burner for a forge this size. I still haven't built a micro(nano?) forge for the 1/8" burner yet.
  2. If you are going to plastic bag your tools, do not forget a desiccant. Otherwise, the bag can exacerbate the rust problem.
  3. If you are going to scrap it otherwise, it would not hurt anything, except your tools. I've destroyed a carbide tool trying to modify kastolite after firing. If you could succeed easily, you would gain more data but if kastolite is easily worked after firing, something was wrong in casting/firing. (If you used kastolite) I wouldn't put a lot of effort into it. Wood and plaster are easier prototype mediums.
  4. Back on page 19-20 Dan was playing with a ribbon burner with 1/8 inch ports and he landed at 123 ports. He was using a different inducer so it is not a same same kind of thing but I figured it was food for thought.
  5. Yes, that could be used. It could be better than drilling by hand if carefully setup. The goal is to make the hole as concentric and axially aligned with the mix tube as possible.
  6. The way I understand it is inducers induce, injectors inject, ejectors eject. It's very complicated. Inducers are drawing something in. Ejectors and injectors are inducers. Ejectors are inducing something to spit it out of somewhere. Injectors are inducing something to push it into somewhere. I've also run into the term inspirator which was defined as a device which fuel pressure is used to draw in atmospheric air to mix it with the fuel at precise ratios for burning purposes. A Venturi is a cone shaped constriction in a fluid flow system to temporarily speed up the flow a
  7. Neutral is a fine line but anywhere close works well. Frosty has stated that he prefers the lightly reducing(rich) side of that line.
  8. It sure does. That is your problem. It's coming out too fast without a volume increase at the end so it won't stay lit because the flame lifts away.
  9. Yeah, this forum and others like it are wonderful for getting all kinds of minds together.
  10. That works just fine. I am always after more potential output and what I said was based on that. By enlarging the orifice instead of throttling the air, you increase burner output. Both ways work and you don't need to chase more to get the job done. I tend to forget that.
  11. I am inexperienced with the NARBs. I was speaking about what I saw in the flames and extrapolating. I probably should have refrained. Now that you mentioned it, I recall someone else on the forum saying the same thing about orifice position not changing much on their NARB as well. Where the first burner is running lean outside of the forge, I wonder if forge back pressure will reduce enough induction to run nicely.
  12. Both of the burners are not Frosty Ts. Unless a burner is built to the specs in Frosty's instructions, it is not a Frosty design. You have two of your own design which are Frosty T inspired. Nothing wrong with that, we all learn from new designs. You just have more of your own figuring to do. That said, your first picture of the first burner (if the orifice is the same) is showing a more powerful inducer. Your flames are lifting because they are lean. Look at the deep blue color of the flames. You are inducing more air. Lean flames are thinner and don't hold as well. If it w
  13. When I first showed up on IFI, I spent a couple of weeks reading Forges 101, Burners 101, the t burner thread, and the NARB thread. Then I pestered Mikey and Frosty in private for a while. They both took the time to answer all of my questions. Since then, I have pestered several other people. I am grateful to have a place with such great people.
  14. 1 AM, you are a dedicated giver. Thank you again, your toolbox is filled with good ideas. I am thankful for the forum which allows us all to bounce ideas. I'm going to have to borrow your use of forged cam locks in my contraptions. It is such a simple action to produce and makes operation much smoother. I am surprised I never thought to forge my own. The expanded metal makes absolute sense. I first saw it used with Frosty's NARBs and I asked Frosty, back then, why expanded metal. He is also a dedicated giver, full of good ideas. My mind never linked that data with forge co
  15. Thank you for all that. Frosty now has me wanting to see your forge all folded up. Any chance you have any pictures of that? Name is Curtis over here. If only I lived closer to the two of you. Have you had any issues with cracking where the metal and the refractory interface? Have you noticed any differential expansion issues? I like the cam lock idea. You said you have already forged several, any pictures of those? Thank you for the kind words. You have already helped out. I have been inspired to keep after the split forge. As you said, it adds some pain to the pro
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