Another FrankenBurner

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About Another FrankenBurner

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Boise, Idaho
  • Interests
    Tinkering, making things, learning, diagnosing, math/science, programming, cad, CNC, 3D printing, machining, casting, forging, welding, carving.

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  1. I found a more resolute copy of the above image.
  2. The short answer: 3/4" burner is the largest mix tube burner I have used 3D printer nozzles. The long answer: Mix tube diameter is not the only factor which determines the orifice diameter. I can list three different burner styles which use 3 different orifice sizes. I am now tinkering with a burner which has a 3/8"(nominal) throat which is happy with a 1.2 mm printer nozzle or the 045 mig tip. Finding the right orifice size requires experimentation if the burner is also an experiment. I purchased a 20 pack assortment of 3D printer nozzles for $6 which allows me to trial and error. My burners tend to like a larger orifice than some designs. Printer nozzles are easily available up to 1.2 mm which is too small for my 3/4" burner. I had to drill one to a larger diameter to work. In a burner which likes a smaller orifice, the 1.2 mm top cap may be good for larger mix tube burners. The mig tips and the printer nozzles can't be compared directly by their orifice size. The difference in channel length changes the output velocity and fuel volume per pressure. Even if you know what size mig tip your burner likes, you still have to experiment to switch over to a printer nozzle. In my burners, it is usually pretty close. The 1/2" burners liked the 030 mig tip at 0.039" actual. They now have the 1 mm printer nozzle at 0.0394" but they heat the forge to a higher temperature.
  3. I am a fan of the 3D printer nozzles as orifices, over the mig tips. They are listed in exact size, they are brass, they are inexpensive and they have a shorter channel length which outputs a higher velocity stream per fuel pressure. I am curious what a 3/4 Mikey would do with a 0.8 to 1 mm printer nozzle.
  4. I wouldn't jump too fast. If you are talking about drilling out the 84 1/8 to 5/16, that would be too fast. If you deviate from the 1/8 inch, then you can get into flash back territory. This is a balancing act. Frosty's 3/4 has nineteen 5/16" holes. Something tells me 84 at 5/16" would be grossly too many for a one inch. Though, I don't recommend trying to drill cured kastolite. I think you will just break it. If you could successfully drill it, I would say in small steps. Go to 3/16 then 1/4. You can't go back so you can't bracket this. This is why Frosty advised using wood blocks before casting another one. Change one thing at a time. If you were to drill the block and change orifice sizes at the same time, the new running conditions would tell you nothing in relation to each change. I say all this because at this point, you are not building a burner, you are designing one. As you see, there is more to it than just pushing fuel down a pipe. I think the mad scientists tinkerer's club needs a patch.
  5. As Mike started with 045 mig tip, 1 inch mix tube and he is from Texas , I am guessing he wants higher outputs. In spite of that, I am very curious what the 84 ports would do with a 1/2 inch Frosty T. It would be a much lower output burner, but it beats deep sixing the NARB block. Good for a second, smaller forge?
  6. I don't think you have enough ports. Dan has 123 ports at 1/8th inch for his 3/4 inducer. You are attempting 84 with a 1 inch. That is why your flames are lifting from the block.
  7. Ron Reil gets a kick out of this thought too. He is into the history of things and has lots of treasures. He regularly presents me some tool/treasure with "What's this?" He told me his mentor Grandpa (Nahum Hersom) also enjoyed that game.
  8. Beware of forge burners on amazon and ebay. You will find several different types generally copying the concept of some known to function burner. It is difficult to find them actually built to the specs of the burner they are copying. Several examples being very out of spec or built in ways the original maker advised against. It is easy to make a pipe with fire at one end that looks like a good burner if you don't know what you are looking at. With just a little effort, it is easy to build one which performs better than that. If you do not want to build a burner, research the type of burner you want so that you can buy one which is built correctly.
  9. I have and use both. Make sure your valve(s) are the appropriate type. The newer valves have both. I prefer the acme fitting as it does not require tools to change out cylinders. One possible downside is that the acme connection is not as solid in terms of the regulator rotating vs a fitting which is wrenched on but I have never experienced any problems. I do not have a large manifold hanging off of the cylinder though. I have the connection fitting, the regulator, a 1/4 turn ball valve, and the hose. Speaking of wrenched on fittings, if you go with the pol fitting, do not over tighten it. A lot of people spot tight these and they do not need to be muscled tight. Doing so is not great on the sealing surfaces or the threads.
  10. I think Mikey might be talking about Glen over at GS Tongs.
  11. Irondragon Forge & Clay posted a thread on page 1 which goes into the danger of uncoated ceramic wool(kaowool). It is a good read. See all the broken down bits here. You don't want this. The smaller particles which go airborne and make it into your lungs are no good. I'm not a big safety guy but I want to do this for a while to come and I want my lungs, eyes and ears to still work at the end of it so I do what I can to protect them. I have hearing damage and a scarred eye from before I started wearing the ppe and I sure wish I had just worn it before the damage.
  12. I could not remember so I weighed a couple of bricks. The k26 brick weighs 2 lbs 6 oz(I was way off) and the dense brick weighs 7 lbs. These are full size bricks though, measuring 9" x 4.5" x 2.5". Based on the pictures, I thought you had a full brick in there. A common split size is 1.25" thick, maybe you have one of those. I am not sure here but I don't think the rigidizer alone is enough to protect against free fibers. Pictures are easier to get, take up less bandwidth and for me at least, are easier to read than video. The pictures that Frosty recommended would give us a lot of information to go on. This is the right one. If all three sides were 3/4" or 1" it would be the wrong one.
  13. Just a little bit more tweaking and you could have a hotter forge if you want it. The 45 and extra nipple will add some resistance to the flow path but it will not change performance as drastically as an out of alignment mig tip. When a mig tip is out of axial alignment with the mix tube, even a little, it can reduce the air induction dramatically. The tip looks to be fairly out of alignment in this image. If you could get a picture of the flame inside the forge when the forge is first fired up before the walls are glowing, this would give us much more information to go on. If the burner were mine and the tip is actually out of alignment, I would get a new tee and try again. If you have access to a drill press, Frosty's advice in the pdf about using a floor flange to fasten the fitting to the drill press will help with this greatly. Measure carefully and center punch. After drilling, use the drill press to tap the hole. This will keep the tap in alignment. If you do this and you want to take the 45 out, do so before you tune the burner. You would gain some performance by removing it. Either way, have it setup the way you want it before you tune it. On the forge side of things, the blanket looks uncoated. As previously stated, this blanket can create a hazard if left uncoated. If you are not ham handed, you can get away with a thinner coating. I have used plistix which I got from Wayne Coe. In the beginning, I was pretty clumsy with hot pieces so I took the others advice and armored the blanket with a 3/8" layer of kast o lite 30. I like not worrying about poking the wall into the blanket so I still armor with kast o lite and then coat that in plistix. The full size brick that is in the forge looks to be the dense variety. The light bricks are in the 8 ounce range and the heavy ones are 7 pounds IIRC. If it is a heavy one, I would look for something else. This could be another significant area of improvement in forge temperatures. I used to use 3/8" high alumina kiln shelf in mine but now I just use the kast o lite. Don't just remove it and let the flame blast the raw blanket though, it will create the hazard and destroy the blanket. If you plan on forge welding with flux, your floor has to put up with flux as well. If you remove the 45 fitting, it would put the burner more over the top of the forge. This might draw in spent gas coming out of the forge. If you were to orient the tee openings perpendicular to the forge openings, it might help. Hopefully someone else has more experience with that..
  14. I definitely agree with not bringing anger to the anvil. This was one of my early on learnings, right in there with tapers. Meditation is a great word to describe it. Finding Zen with hammer in hand. Now every strike I am going to hear it. Bink, Bink, Bink. Making tools is addictive. I always made tools before I found forging but forging gave me more reasons to make more, more tools to make more tools and a deeper understanding of all the tools I already owned. Got an idea, figure out what tools you need to make it happen, make the tools and make it happen. It is rewarding and fulfilling. The tools make the craftsman but the blacksmith makes the tools. I don't remember where I read that one. Probably on IFI somewhere.
  15. I should have stated that differently. What I meant was that I am guilty of not balancing my time well. I fully intend on spending much more time on burners. I just have to fit forging in. For me, forging is therapeutic. If I start to get grouchy and life seems to not make sense, I need time at the anvil. Then all is well again. At least it's a manly binky.