Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Another FrankenBurner

Members
  • Content Count

    518
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Another FrankenBurner

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Boise, Idaho
  • Interests
    Tinkering, making things, learning, diagnosing, math/science, programming, cad, CNC, 3D printing, machining, casting, forging, welding, carving.

Recent Profile Visitors

1,761 profile views
  1. I'm still around. Just when I thought life was slowing down, it had other plans. Not much to report on the burner front. Four forges in the hands of four smiths. I have not heard a complaint yet. I have spent a bit of time testing the burners in two different forges and the only negative I've got is that they are quite loud after you have listened to them a while. I think it is time I start working on a NARB. I continue to work on the burners in my mind. I'm not sure if it is progress or madness.
  2. Same story here. Harbor freight black digital set, less than $10. They are metal though. Within a thousandth of the dial Staretts. I own a few sets for doing things I wouldn't think of doing with the others.
  3. Is this what you mean? Page 96 of burners 101.
  4. This is the right place to talk about burners. We can't really answer your questions as the picture you have posted shows us only the fuel connection portion. I do not see a burner. I second ThomasPowers advice to go with a known to work burner plan. (Frosty T, Mikey, Reil burner etc.) Built to the plan. Burners look simple but have complexities which make their dimensions critical. Unfortunately, there are a lot of YouTube videos with burners which are bad examples. It's easy to make fire come out of a pipe. It's more difficult to make efficient hot fire. Especially
  5. Just to put it out there, you can link directly to a post. https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/46536-burners-101/page/13/?tab=comments#comment-528496
  6. Are you looking for 2D CAD software? There is a freeware called LibreCAD. I pointed Tristan in that direction a while back and within a couple of days he sent me some work he had done in it. I use TurboCAD mostly, so I don't have much experience with LibreCAD.
  7. I'm not sure how it's being used above because of the metric/standard fun but a mil in standard machinist terms is a "thou" or thousandth of an inch (0.001"). This is needed because in standard, the smallest measurement we use is an inch before going to fractions. Counting in tens is just smarter so when tiny measurements are needed in standard, mils are used. I was raised on standard. Now I use both because I have to. How much I prefer subtract 1 or 0.1 or even 0.01 over multiply the numerator and denominator by 2 or 4 or 8 depending on how small the size change needed, subtract on
  8. Well that is a bummer. Hopefully better luck with the codierite.
  9. I caught this one but I didn't want to presume it was directed at me. I am indeed reading this. I am still tinkering with nozzles. Currently, I am playing with FAM velocity at the ejection point to see its effect on flame propagation velocity and forge temperature. I have not played with the bull nose shape. I have a dual fuel bernzomatic torch which employs one but it also has a baffle to cause what they call a swirl flame. As far as I can see, the baffle causes the FAM to rotate and slings it to the outside wall of the nozzle which then hits the bull nose, I think to prevent
  10. Good stuff. I like tinkering with the turn down range as well. I am curious, if you turn it down to what you consider your lowest end with still clean burning, will the FAM flow through be enough to keep the block cool enough? Or like Frosty experienced, will it run well for a while until the block slowly heats too high and then boom ignition inside the plenum? Your long running stable low end may be determined by having enough FAM flow for cooling more so than just pulling in enough air. If you had more than enough high end, you could sacrifice some high end to gain low end if you
  11. Very cool. I see these plates used in burners at work a lot. I have a pile of them I planned on playing with. Most manufacturers call them ceramic radiant burners or high efficiency burners. Both naturally aspirated and powered air varieties. The powered air versions usually use 3 of these blocks for a large, high output burner. The naturally aspirated sometimes run a low enough output that the flame just barely covers the plate and the plate runs into the orange temperature ranges for radiant heat transfer. I wondered about the cooling factor when run in the higher temperatures of
  12. Sorry Frosty, I had to put that out there. Those pictures/videos are rough enough that they might make an impact on would be careless grinder operators. I've never messed with those gnarly looking chainsaw attachments. The small round ones or the bar attachments. They are a neat carving attachment but I see myself regretting using one. They just seem too aggressive for such a lightweight powerful tool. I've heard enough horror stories of chainsaw kickback with full size heavy saws. I'm sure some folks use and love them.
  13. I wrote the above to be the other side of the coin. Several members had mentioned their fear of using an angle grinder, in some cases avoiding them completely as they are too dangerous. I get it, lots of people are killed/injured every year by 4 1/2" angle grinders. I wanted to show that with proper knowledge/precaution, angle grinders are a great tool to have. As I know it, the biggest two causes of injury are having a type 1 bonded cut off disc explode throwing chunks at the operator and losing control because of kick back. Both of which, if anticipated, can be minimized. As
  14. Passing over the door is your problem. The forge exhaust gases leave the forge, heat rises, and heats up your pipe. Any chance you can get another partial turn on the elbow to rotate the fuel line to the side of the forge instead of passing over the door? Hold the pipe attached to the forge and rotate the elbow, avoiding rotating the pipe attached to the forge. Looks like you'd have to cut the support arm off the forge as it's in the way. An unrelated piece of advice, if you replace that coupling with a union, you can disassemble this thing more easily for maintenance, moving,
  15. I understand. I have felt the same way watching people with kitchen knives, axes, circular saws, chainsaws, car jacks, a lawn mower, even a kitchen hand mixer. Lots of stuff has risks. Knowing and caring about the risks helps you stay safe. Watching others who don't always makes me cringe. I have been on several construction sites and seen things that I just had to look away. I've also heard a lot of bad stories when it went wrong. This shouldn't stop a person from using them though. Learn the risks and think before you act.
×
×
  • Create New...