Another FrankenBurner

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Another FrankenBurner

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Boise, Idaho
  • Interests
    Tinkering, making things, learning, diagnosing, math/science, programming, cad, CNC, 3D printing, machining, casting, forging, welding, carving.

Recent Profile Visitors

1,094 profile views
  1. Alright, now that you have it figured out, I'll play devil's advocate to complicate things. The helium tank forge is a great forge. Especially for people new to the hobby. Mainly because of fuel consumption. Making nails, s hooks and leaves in a propane cylinder forge is like getting groceries with a big rig. Especially in the beginning when everything takes several heats to learn to move the metal. When I throw my little metal into the vast cavern of a large forge, I see the fuel being wasted. My first forge was a monster, like everyone else's. You know, so I could make any project I could ever imagine. One forge for everything. I very quickly realized that it was more cost effective to build a second smaller forge than to run the big one to make small things. I have since made an even smaller forge. I use the smallest forge which will accommodate the work. The only problem I have with the helium jug forge is the very small floor space. Making a larger split cross in one is challenging. This is why I have converted to the oval forge. Still round so the flames spiral. Smaller volume for less fuel requirement but with the wider floor of a bigger round forge. Some of my favorite forge work is striker cooperation with my father or brother.
  2. I have built and used forges with both sizes of cylinders you are talking about. If you are doing 2 inches of blanket with 1/2 inch of kast o lite, remember you are subtracting 5 inches from the diameter of the shell. The smaller helium cylinder finishes at about 4 inch diameter by 12 inch length. The larger propane cylinder finishes about 7 inch diameter by 12 inch. While this doesn't sound like a significant difference, the volume of the latter is three times the former. Definitely different burner requirements. As a decent in between, the propane cylinder with extra blanket on top and bottom, gives an approximate oval. This drops your forge volume while having wider floor space. I am a convert to the oval forge. As to the rounding hammer project, if you are going down the Alec Steele 3.5# line, I would not attempt that in the helium cylinder forge. If you haven't tried a rounding hammer yet, I recommend trying one first. If you are new to the hobby, I also don't recommend starting with a 3.5 pounder. Heavier fatigues muscles quickly. Tired muscles cause bad form, miss hits, bad habits. After all that, some like bigger hammers. Brent Bailey swings 7lb cross pein. In the beginning, I bought a 4lb sledge from harbor freight and ground it into a rounding hammer. It's heavy. I later bought a 2.5lb drilling hammer and converted it. The head is closer to square than a sledge so it gives good corners for differing radiused sides for tilted fullering. I changed the handle as I prefer a longer handle. I have several now in different weights. I even have a "good" one and I generally go back to the 2.5lb drilling hammer cheapo.
  3. I believe he is meaning something like this. This prevents the back pressure Frosty was talking about while also not impinging directly on the wall.
  4. Thank you for the explanations. Mass in motion, check. I think I've got the big picture but I will have to chew on all that a bit for the little stuff to sink in. I am plotting some more manometer play as well. Trevor, nice tongs. Are those for rail spikes?
  5. If we are talking about ambient pressure compressing air into the inspirator than I have to fall in line with the answer of nope. They work the opposite of that. I wasn't sure if that is what was asked or if compression within the mix tube was the subject. Thinking of the latter has entertained me. I need to play with the manometer a bit more. My mind is running circles with the idea of the mix tube being lower pressure than ambient at the flame end. How is it discharging if the pressure is lower than ambient? The soda straw analogy demonstrates pressure differential very well but with an inspirator, the low pressure zone is upstream of the delivery end. After which, we are moving to a push, I think. When I was playing with a venturi and manometer, I saw a pressure increase after the throat. Compression. I don't remember what that pressure was compared to ambient but I suspect it was greater as the device has to push against ambient or, worse, forge backpressure. Now that I have talked myself into overthought confusion again, any takers?
  6. I am not sure I fully understand the question. If I did, there is a good chance I have no idea at the answer. When I decrease the inlet size and this results in increased induction, I suspect it is because the air is entering from a lower angle which contributes to vortical flow. The vortical flow, lowering the pressure, is more efficient at drawing in air and moving it along. The addition of the aerospike made this more obvious. (thank you for the term Frosty) With that addition and balanced inlet size, I can clearly see 3 separate vortices which gang up at the point where the jet meets the throat. At that point, there is a very tight vortex which immediately heads down the mix tube. This significantly increased air induction. In this post is a very poorly shot video which shows what I described.
  7. This is not the case in Trevor's burner, but in general, if your flame is too lean, your orifice could be enlarged. By choking off air to match fuel requirements, you are reducing your burner output. By increasing your orifice size instead, you are increasing it's output. However, if you can partially choke off your air inlets and see no change, then you might start looking at smaller inlets. Which I am guessing is what you were actually meaning? Just to add to the fun, in a few cases, I have decreased the size of the air inlets and that resulted in an increase in air induction. I don't understand most of it so this usually gets me excited and I have to start playing with smoke streams to see what is going on in there.
  8. I have seen several factory made flares leak. Take them apart and take a good look at the mating surfaces. Hopefully it doesn't scare you away from flare fittings though. Quarter inch copper tubing is my preferred way to plumb a forge.
  9. The color of green in that video certainly says rich flames(if you see it with your eyes). Before you go cutting back the orifices, did you get the sputtering issue resolved? In all of your videos, I see a flame which tends to spin off center or topple around the perimeter of the nozzle. I have had this occur when my orifice was out of center or out of alignment and when my nozzle was out of alignment. If any of these conditions is true, it causes the air induction to drop drastically resulting in a rich flame. Do you still have the reducers as nozzles on the burners? How deep into the blanket do they penetrate? Did you just cut round holes in the blanket downstream of them? You went with two burners, are these 3/4" or 1/2" burners? Was it a breezy day when you shot the video? Even lightly. I believe that Frosty advises against having the burner air inlets in line with each other like that. You have flare fittings so you can easily rotate those burners 90° to see if it gains you anything.
  10. Rigidizer is different than refractory. I use something similar to what MCalvert suggested. I buy fumed silica and mix with water and a few drops of food coloring. This mixture is spritzed on the blanket until it is saturated. The blanket is then heated with a torch to drive off the water and fuse the silica and blanket. This causes the blanket to become stiff. A good foundation. If you skip the rigidizer, it is more difficult to apply the liner and for the life of that forge, the liner is always kind of floating on the soft under layers. Once the blanket is rigidized, the refractory is applied inside. The refractory prevents the blanket from being damaged by your metal work and the flames. You don't absolutely need refractory but you definitely want a top coat of some kind to prevent free fibers from flying into your lungs. This is where the Plistix/Matrikote can be used as a hot face. Or you can use the refractory and skip the hot face. I like my forges to be tough so they have both the refractory and the hot face. I can not find much on the uni-bond but what I did find is not encouraging. It is generally recommended to stay away from anything listed as cement or mortar. This product is intended to be used as mortar for firebricks. If you apply it and it doesn't work out, it may be very difficult to remove for replacement. I would do some coupon testing of the product before committing, just to be safe. How did you come across it? Did someone recommend it? Several members have advised against the oil burners. Mostly because of the nasty burn properties.
  11. Get some dish soap, mix somewhat thick with water, spread over your plumbing. This can be done while the burners are running with valves open. If you start making bubbles, you have verified a leak and located it. The second video you posted shows part of the plumbing very briefly and it looks like maybe the gas tape was put on backwards. I can't tell for sure but I figured I'd mention it so you can verify. If so, this can cause leaks.
  12. Before you go any further, have you rigidized that blanket? By mortar, what product do you mean? Zoeller Forge advises Plistix 900F, not ITC100HT, in the FAQ. The consensus amongst the wise elders here is that the ITC doesn't cure properly and just flakes off. This is what happened with my forge back when I was still trying it. Ron Reil's website from long ago is still up and advises the ITC. I have tried ITC, Plistix and Matrikote. I prefer the Plistix 900F as it actually sticks, is affordable and it has a higher temperature rating than Matrikote. If you are following Zoeller's FAQ page and using Kast-O-Lite 30, the gurus advise a different curing process. Instead of a few hours air dry and a low firing of the refractory, the refractory should be kept in a humid space for 1-7 days. Then slowly fired. I have done the rapid firing and the refractory ends up softer and more likely to crack or rubble. I now apply the refractory, put the whole thing in a bag or tub with a cup of water and leave it alone for a week. This results in a tough solid product. Frosty uses a magnetic block heater to heat the water to ensure humidity. If you want more details, Forges 101 is great for details. What is your purpose for the floor brick? Are you planning on forge welding with flux?
  13. I will typically forge A36 and 1018 with these dies. Thank you for mentioning that. I would not have thought about that. I do play with some spring steels and 4140. No S7 or h13.
  14. I did not sift out the aggregate. We made a form out of blue Styrofoam covered in packing tape. Then mixed up kastolite to ram into this form along the bottom and up the walls. This created a hollow inner which we put a piece of rigidized ceramic blanket. That was then top coated with more kastolite. This makes a hollow block with blanket inside.