Fatfudd

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About Fatfudd

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  1. Anvil

    Then try this-
  2. Anvil

    You might spend a few hours reading many of the threads on this website, I believe your question is one that many folks starting out are asking and wishing. I don't want to sound ornery but if you look around here you'll find this thread-
  3. Press from Harbor Freight

    You're correct, The compressor/air combo is much slower than a direct drive to the hydraulic pump. I built mine the same as Olfart describes and as I said it'll squash a piece of .5"x.5" real nicely but I can't get it to do work any faster than if I do it by hand. Actually its slower because the ram moves so slowly, does suck out the heat rather quickly and also because it uses a lot of air, even with a 60 gallon compressor tank. You would wind up waiting for the compressor to recharge if you have a smaller compressor. My 27 ton log splitter is actually much better (for me) than alot of my friend's stationary forging presses, Its mobile, costs about 75% less than their presses and allows much more space for the forging processes. Since I don't use it all the time I can just push it outside and leave it when i don't need it but it only takes about 5 minutes to set it up to run.
  4. Get the book pounding out profits, it is a great reference book on all power and helve hammers. According to the book LG bought out murco to eliminate the competition. It kind of interesting that LG didn't incorporate all the improvements that the Mayer brothers had made to the Moloch and Murco hammers after they bought them out. Mine is a small 25lb Murco in nice condition, here's some pics before I cleaned it up and put it in the shop.
  5. I was just wondering because my Murco has a serial number tag too and I was hoping if the machine Co tag had a date that could be a reference from your murco date to mine. Seeing as how Little giant bought out MURCO in the 60's that tag's date isn't really very helpful. Thanks anyway!
  6. Press from Harbor Freight

    Its much slower, kind of like working a regular hydraulic press by hand. It means as the ram encounters the item to be lifted(or squeezed) the pressure begins to build. As the pressure begins to build the ram moves more slowly. As it nears the end of it its weight lifting capability you begin to get close to the top if its pressure curve or the 20 ton lifting capability. This is similar to a regular hydraulic cylinder(in a press or log splitter) but because of the speed of the ram you get the pressure spike much quicker.
  7. Press from Harbor Freight

    I have built one of the small presses using an air over hydraulic jack and after you do, you'll realize that they work OK for really small things. They mash a hot piece of 1/2" but they are still too slow and really don't hit the max (20 ton) pressure until you are nearing the end of the pressure curve which takes a while to reach. My 27 ton log splitter is about a 100 times more versatile. But as I said I built one after watching the Youtube videos, now it sits in a corner and I use it occasionally for copper.
  8. Nice hammer! What is the date on your hammer's tag?
  9. Nice idea, thanks for sharing.
  10. Buy or No Buy?

    I dunno about some of the suggestions you have received so far. If the rebound is good and the ring across the top is good(no buzzing) get it. At $2/lb it would be a heck of a deal. It would be a great starter anvil, far better than what I started with 30 years ago. So what if someone messed with the edges as long as you have a decent rebound on the face its good to go. You can make enough money off an anvil like that to buy a Refflinghaus in the not too distant future.. Seems like everyone is getting a little too snobbish about the quality of the anvils that a person should be starting out on. To be honest, I used a Trenton for a number of years that some joker had welded on the edges and you know what, it worked just fine.The only caution is if the rebound isn't good or the top plate has a lot of buzzing sounds then yeah pass on it,
  11. Identify this anvil

    It is a little too hard to tell much about your anvil with the pictures you have provided, Some close ups of the underside of the base, the holes under the horn and tail,. and numbers any where else else on it. A closer picture of the top edges would help also.
  12. Making roller dies

    I have some SWAG dies for rolling .5" steel the hard way with a harbor freight roller. The dies appear to be only a few thousands wider than .5" to bend the metal without too much flexing and distortion. You might contact SWAG for their exact measurements.
  13. Whoa now- That's a Molock not a little giant! They were built by the Mayer brothers long after the brothers got ousted by the company they started. Altho they are similar they aren't exactly the same power hammers. The Molock's had a number of modernizations/modifications to the original little giant design that are discussed in Kern's book. In several places he makes suggestions to upgrade the LGs making them similar to Molock and Murcos for improvements. You have a really great power hammer one that is nearly bullet proof if you maintain it properly. There weren't nearly as many Molocks and Murcos made but the are worth their weight in gold. Roger Rice at Little Giant Power Hammers.com has many parts and dies that fit these hammers and can help you with some advice altho he and I have discussed some of the differences too. You might also want to get "Pounding out Profits" for a very little more info on the background of the Mayer brothers history. The info on the Molock and Murcos is scarce unfortunately, however since i found mine I have gained a little more understanding by spending a great deal of time comparing the LGs to my hammer. Congratulations you have great hammer.
  14. ABEBooks.com has several copies of Kern's book but they are kind of pricey. I think you'll find a copy to be worth every penny tho. Another suggestion is to contact Roger Rice at little giant and discuss the issue with him. He took over the business from Sid and I have found him to be very helpful.
  15. Mystery anvil, anyone got a clue?

    Looks like an early English anvil, but it could be made by any of many makers. Sorry. Without more info from markings its anybody's guess