Fatfudd

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About Fatfudd

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    smelly old dude

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    Male
  • Location
    Corrales NM

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  1. Anvil identification?

    Before you hear this from everyone else, please put your location under your name. The anvil could be in lithuania, England or Brazil. If it is an English anvil which it looks like, there were literally hundreds of makers so we will need a lot more pictures up close on the sides after you have wire brushed them. It looks like a Mousehole anvil but there were a number of companies that were started by previous employees of the bigger manufacturer.
  2. Forged or ASO?

    33" long would put it close to 300lbs. That being the case anything under $1500 would be an acceptable price but I have seen them go for more than $2000 because as Charles said the TV shows are driving the price. If I were going to spend that kind of money I would look at some of the new anvils that are made in your part of the country. Rhino anvils in particular but Nimba anvils also. They are more than excellent.
  3. Help with Anvil ID

    That long thin tail and the two pritchel holes would probably make it a Trenton
  4. Anvil info requested

    Trenton
  5. Thinking over my options.

    I found a Murray 25lb hammer in excellent condition behind an auto shop in Corona NM. about 2 months ago. It turns out that auto shop was the site of the original blacksmithing shop for the town.The owner was the son of the blacksmith and several folks had tired to buy the hammer but he had refused. I asked if he wanted to sell it and he said "make me an offer I can't refuse" I offered him $1000 and he simply said its yours. I put a 1hp motor on it and bought a new tension spring and a set of dies from Roger Rice at little giant and have a little more than $1500 in it. Since Moloch and Murray hammers were significant upgrades to the original Little giant hammers they are pretty nearly bullet proof.
  6. Anvils: A beginner buyers guide

    Robb Gunter still repairs anvils and could possibly repair yours. Look up "Gunter Method" He lives in Edgewood NM if you wish to look him up.
  7. Austrian Anvil

    Very Nice Anvil. Without knowing the maker it would be really hard to determine the age of the anvil or its date of manufacture. It is a cast steel anvil which narrows it quite a bit and looking at the weight stamp impression I would guess Kohlswa or a similar manufacturer but that is only a guess. My Soderfors Austrian(bohemian) anvil was cast too but there is no serial number on it. Hopefully someone across the pond might know more?
  8. My first anvil

    The anvil is ok to use and use it you should. It is a great starter anvil and far better than what I started with. Don't be discouraged by others comments and don't sweat the condition. As Kevin said "Forge On It" It will serve you well and after you have gotten some experience and started making money, then consider whether you actually need another anvil. I still have the piece of rail road track I started on many many years ago and I also have way too many anvils that I have been able to purchase because i have a blacksmith art business.
  9. Hey Frog it looks like the second one has flats on the feet, can you see that? The first one has the look of a post 1908 Hay Budden. More pictures would really help, after you go over the anvils with a cupped wire brush.
  10. Press info.

    What kind of press are you considering? It would help if you could narrow your ideal a little.
  11. Help Dating a Hay Budden Anvil

    G-Man Bart - You are incorrect. Hay Budden did experiment with solid steel anvils and as Lou said collectors would be all over that anvil. There have been several sold on Ebay in the past year for a fairly healthy chunk of change. Sometimes it best not to offer an opinion if you have only read a book. Many of the folks on IFI have developed a considerable knowledge base from actual experience.
  12. Watson and Williams Press

    Pictures help!
  13. Bought my first anvil today

    Good for you! Now get to making nice things to sell and it will pay for itself.
  14. I'm making a set of new keys for my little giant/Murco power hammer and I have a question that some of you may be able to answer. The discussion provided on the Little Giant website for fitting new keys is excellent but it seems to me that this process of grinding and filing would be prohibitively time consuming for the original manufacturer. I have found several references on IFI for fitting keys using heat. One discussion suggests using a rose bud to heat small sections of the key and upsetting those portions of the key to fit the dovetail until the whole key is solid. Another thread mentioned just heating the key and driving it in the dovetail as long as the sides are straight. It would seem, as I said, that the process of grinding and fitting each key in new machines would have been terribly time consuming. It also seems that many of the machines had pins in the bottom of the dovetail and in the dies. I may be wrong here but wouldn't it have made more sense to just put the die in place with the base pin and then pound in a well heated key? That assumes the key would be premade nearly to the correct size but would upset into the dovetail. Once its cooled and has shrunk a little, a couple of more hits on the key would drive it in securely. Since the heated key is going to be a whole lot softer that the base or the ram there would be no danger of breaking. Has anyone used heat to get their keys to final shape??