Bob Brandl

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About Bob Brandl

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    Western North Carolina, North of Asheville.

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  1. That's definitely not a bad price for it. it's a fuzz higher than what I paid for mine, but I bought mine a good while back, and this one is in a little better shape than mine was. John Brooks anvils have become my anvil of choice over the years, and I have (and have had) more than a few. I'd buy it, especially given that it looks to be in pretty good shape.
  2. You know what makes me want to slap people? People whining and fussing about what other people decide to do with their tools, and stating opinion as gospel truth. I'll grant that whoever worked on that anvil does appear to have wrecked it, but that was their decision and they have to live with it. I've done more than a few repairs on anvils and other blacksmithing tools, and more than a few of those times I've used a mill or grinder. Should someone work with mills, grinders, or other cutting/grinding/welding tools without knowing what they're doing and the particulars of what they're working on? No, of course not. But if someone knows what they're doing, or knows someone who does, it's a perfectly valid way to fix something/clean something up, as is welding up an anvil face or corners if necessary. It's a shame about that anvil, but it's not your problem to deal with, it's theirs.
  3. I second the welding of the seams, as well as the drill rod in the pipe and all the prep. you can do on the steels. I've had an air pocket form on me with the welded seam before from getting in a hurry and not getting as flat a grind on everything as I should have, but I lucked out and managed to power through it. Mostly because the bubble was isolated to the very end of the billet, though. Anymore I mostly leave a little bit of the seam exposed on one end and soak in WD-40 or kerosene (I prefer kerosene) before I weld. Works like a charm...most of the time, haha. Also, and I doubt it has anything really to do with the success/fail rate, but I always weld the seams with stainless wire or filler rod now, regardless of the jacket and core steel configuration. I don't seem to have nearly as may issues with delamination as I did using regular wire/rod with the same forging setup. Likely makes no difference, but it works for me.
  4. I just had the face on my Brooks milled down, and it was pretty xxxxxx hard at .070" deep, and I figure I could have gone down another .030" or .040" and still been fine, what with it being cast steel. Not saying yours would necessarily be the same, but you look like you would need to take way less off than I needed to on mine. I really like most Swedish made anvils. Almost as much as Brooks', haha!
  5. Could a mod/admin please remove this thread? Thanks.
  6. Thanks. So, in these pictures, you can see where a previous owner had gone a little hammer happy with the Blacker, especially with those half on/half off hammer blows. It makes sense why they are there, so I'm not super worried about the anvil being too soft...per se. That's why I asked about heat treating information so I could hazard a guess about how much I could take off. If this were an anvil with a welded on face, this would be a non issue and I wouldn't be seeking advice. The trick is that it's cast steel and I've never had to do anything more than make a few passes with an angle grinder to just clean a cast steel anvil up. I don't want to make a hash of this, and that's why I'm asking. With that, does Anyone know where I could find this information, or mind helping me out if you know? Thanks, all.
  7. I realize that, but I prefer that it has one. Been using them for right around 12 years (24000 hours, give or take), and a flat face is, and has been, my preference. Not saying it's better, but it suits my work and me best. As to pictures, I'll try and post them here soon. Bad internet and all, haha.
  8. I just got hold of a Blacker anvil by John Brooks, and it's got some damage to it. I'm currently planning on milling the face down enough to have a mostly flat surface to work off of, but am holding off until I can figure a few things out. Specifically, what sort of steel the thing was cast from (I'd guess something like 1045, but I don't know); and how it would have been heat treated so I could guess the depth of hardening. I only need to take off .125"-.150", so I don't think it would be a huge deal, but thought I'd look into it a little bit before I did anything. Does anyone know about such things? I hope so, haha. Thanks very much for your time!
  9. Hello, all. I'm not looking to buy. Just getting that out there, haha. I'm in the process of Hoping to buy one, so no worries there. What I am looking for, however, is someone that has a 100# or 125# Bradley compact that's pretty well complete, or knows someone with one I could get in touch with that would be willing to let me study it; or possibly get me any information at all. The one I'm maybe buying is in pretty rough shape, so it would be Awesome to have access to one so I could figure out what it needs, measurements, etc. I live in NC, so maybe someone "local" might see this? Anyway, thanks to everyone that sees this, and to anyone that can help!
  10. Alright. First of all, for what it's worth and If this is even allowed past the moderators, my removing me post was to a conveniently and Heavily edited response from a moderator (based on the tone, I imagine Mr. Sells) that was Far more scathing, rude, and unwarranted than my initial response could have been. Could I have said sarcastic? Smart aleck? I could have, and for offending someone and violating forum rules, I apologize. I will not, however, apologize for my tone, or having made the post. It was a yes or no question, simple and clean, and nothing was asked for or offered other than my getting derided over not providing as much information as wasn't necessary to answer the initial question. Someone just wanted to show how smart they were, and wanted to use my post as an opportunity to do it. That didn't, and doesn't, fly with me. Period. I want to be taught, learn, and enrich my knowledge in this artistic arena. Truly. What I don't need is to be "taught a lesson" with regards to Anybody trying to "put me in my place" by being insulting and condescending, which is what I felt Mr. Powers was doing, and what Mr. Sells Is doing. If you deciding I'm a former troll is what you're going to do to put me down, go for it. It's not true in the slightest, but I don't particularly care. You want me out of the club, kick me out. Oh, and Spare me the "We should to protect you." nonsense. You're only getting rid of me to stroke an ego, make an example, or whatever self-serving end you're actually meeting. You accused me of acting like a three year old, but have you thought about how you're acting, Mr. Trunchbull? Anyway, it's done. Remove me, keep me, I don't care. Bob Brandl Admin Edit: Personal contact information to Mr. Sells removed. Off site link removed.
  11. To me, heat treating means everything from post forging annealing all the way through to tempering. Annealing is a stage, same as hardening. I honestly don't need anyone, experienced or otherwise, to be kind of a xxxxxxxx or take it upon themselves to teach me a lesson. If I'm asking, logic and deductive reasoning dictates that I'm planning to use it as an anvil, which means that whether I used proper terminology or not (which I did), you know exactly what I'm asking and can hazard an answer to my question. Thank you, all the same. You posed a open question and details were asked for, be aware there are other uses for a 4140 fork tyne than just an anvil, and the heat treating requirements for them are different.
  12. Not sure if this is in the right place or not, so feel free to move if not. Anyway, I've got a 140# piece of saw cut fork, and was wondering if it is heat treated. I know that 4140 (or 4340?) is tough stuff, and at the thickness my piece is, it may well not have been heat treated. I just wanted to check before I went to a ton of trouble trying to heat treat that big a chunk of steel. Thanks, all!